Shotgun Condenser vertical vs angled

[CatCrap]

Hey, guys, just a couple simple quick questions.

Considering creating a new column and condenser set up. I have 2 ports on my BH 8 gallon kettle. Currently running a 1500 w element on a controller with a 2" setup. (just the one 24"X2" column with upgraded 24" liebig for pot still, and that column with the two through tubes running, plus the 24"X2" extension fully packed for reflux) I'm thinking about getting a setup with a Shotgun condenser through still dragon or another site.
So, i guess my two questions are this.. I'm probably going to try to put a second element in the other port put another element in, the wattage of which i have not decided, and get a shotgun condenser, so i can do some uber fast strips, and just have a new and more powerful setup, and more configurations to run at. So, my lid is for 2", i could get the lid with a 3" triclamp from rick at BH pretty cheap i'm sure if i go that route, or get a reducer. My question is, is it worth it to upgrade the column and liebig parts to 3"? Or, i stick with 2", so everything i have is compatible, and i don't need to worry about doing any reducers anywhere no matter what setup i run. Going to 3" means new TCs, new Gaskets, etc etc, where i have a few parts all in 2", so can continue to build a chest of equipment all in one size. If i get 3", what is the biggest advantage, or, is it worth it to upgrade to 3"? IT would be significantly more expensive.

But, my main question.. so.. basically, for pot stilling, i'm thinking I'd get a column section, a bend and a shotgun condenser (as previously mentioned, either all or partially in 2" or 3") so, the first piece, the column section coming out of the lid, as this is for pot stilling, i'm thinking it can be very short, like 6". I don't think it would be ideal to put a bend coming straight out of the lid, for a couple reasons.. First, for puking, just in case so if there is a foaming puking area, it has a little further to go to hit the condenser, and second so i have somewhere to do some minimal packing. I like to do 1, 2 rolls top of copper mesh, just so i have some copper in the vapor path to clean it up, as everything is SS. SO, some column section coming out of the lid, then, either a 180 degree bend, then a shotgun, or, a 90 degree then a 45 degree bend then the shotgun. The difference here, is that the shotgun either runs at a 45 degree angle or fully vertical. Is a shotgun condenser designed to/ more efficient at full vertical, or on an angle? I would like to have the 45 degree angle so collection is a little easier and farther from the boiler, but if a shotgun SHOULD be run vertical, i'll plan to set it up that way.

Thanks for any replies, hope i've given enough information, but not too much to get off track. I"m happy to provide any more details if my question isn't clear

[CatCrap]

I suppose while i'm at it... I'm looking at Dephlegmators on still dragon. they really aren't that expensive. If i wanted to use this for my 2" BH still in reflux setup..

Would it be more efficient than using 2 through tubes for reflux condensing. I'd have to imagine it would be way more efficient to use a "shotgun" dephlegmator than the two inefficient through tubes. Its CM either way, but i've heard other having less than great things to say about the Through tube set up.

How would i install this? With the Column that comes with the PS2, the Liebig PC is attached to the top of the column, above the through tubes. Not sure how i would incorporate the Dephlegmator, other than to put it between the two column sections. The would put it near the middle, with the through tubes up top. I assume it's a better plan to have the RC, whatever it may be, more towards the top of the column, closer to the "lyne arm" to the take off(and liebig condenser)
So, would i have to get a different condenser set up, or is there some way to incorporate a dephlegmator into the "stock" PS2 setup i've got?

Is it worth the time and trouble? TBH, i'm doing my first reflux run with my PS2 in a couple days, so all my opinons of the reflux mode are based on the research i've done, and not from my own experience. Of course i'm not going to purchase anything until i've tried what i have for myself. But, from what i've read the through tubes are a finnicky, inefficient style of RC, and it can be a bit of a tricky reflux setup to run.

Thanks for any and all responses.

[zapata]

Wow, lotsa ground here.
Re: shotgun:
1. Shotguns are most effective at an angle. But it's probably minor, and has more to do with subcoling than condensing. A vertical condenser can suffer fall through, where condensate drops right down the middle without running down a side. Practically it won't make a difference.
2. Do you NEED a shotgun? Yes they are cool, yes they are compact and efficient. But you sure don't need one to condense 1,500 watts. What's the capacity of your current condenser? Is it actually sufficient.

2" vs 3", I wouldn't bother with it for pot stilling. 2" is sufficient for anything I have ever thought of doing at home. It's a different matter for reflux. 3" is 2.25 times the area of 2", which basically means you can feed 2.25x the power, and takeoff 2.25x faster. 3" does need a taller column for ALL things to be equal. Up to you what it's worth. I've been stuck at 2" for years, and regret it once or twice a year but I don't do too much neutral.
I'd keep the 2" lid, I don't really see a need to change that either way, even if you go 3", a reducer is bound to be cheaper and more flexible with little to no drawback.

Re: pot configuration, I'm a big fan of tall risers. I usually run a 2"x3' riser. Unsubstantuated opinion but I think it gives more time for entrained liquids to drop out, thus smearing tails less.

Re: a dephlegmater vs. Coolant tubes. It doesn't look like the easiest mod, but anything is possible (cutting things off and replacing with soldered TC ferrules comes to mind). Not having used the BH, are the through tubes capable of full reflux? If they aren't then yes it'd be a huge improvement. If they are, the gain would be much less. And if they aren't, is a simple mod like stuffing scrubbies around them sufficient? Since you haven't even played with it yet, do so and find out what you can do first, and listen to any firsthand experience that comes along.

[CatCrap]

Thanks for the reply. I'll be doing my reflux run in a couple days, just waiting for this last batch of WPOSW to finish and then clear, then i can strip it and ill have enough LW to do a Spirit run of Neutral using the Reflux set up for the first time. I suppose my goal is 95% at the fastest take off possible. I'll have to see what that looks like, as if it is one drip every ten seconds, i'll be ok with sacrificing 5-10-15% ABV for a faster takeoff and overall run. I'm willing to do 12 hour run.. but it's gotta coincide with my day off, haha. So, i'll plan to set aside plenty of time for this run. I'd hate for my first reflux and first neutral run to not receive the time it deserves, and i'm sure most will agree, after putting in so much work to do the Strips and then spirit run, I want to make every spirit run count, and do everything i can to make it come out as good as i can.

As for the shotgun... I concur with your reasoning, that a vertical logically could allow some distillate to pass right on through without cooling and condensing. So, if i do go that route, I'll plan to do the 90 degree bend into 45 degree bend into Shotgun. I just remembered that i'll also need a reducer coming off the takeoff point of the shotgun, for collection. Assuming it 's a 2" shotgun... what reducer would be best? 2" to 3/4"... then to something else to actually collect out of? I've seen a few different reducers: concentric, bowl shaped, and i guess regular shape.. Does one put a collection jar underneath the business end of that reducer? Or put another piece of some sort to lead to the collection jar? Like a compression union fitting and 1/4" Copper pipe or something? Not sure the best way to install a transition to copper pipe from TC SS pieces. Just trying to picture the final collection point, from 2" Shotgun condenser to ?????? to Jar.

The 24" Liebig, with reasonably cool water, will knock down my 1500 Watt internal element for a full strip run. In the spirit runs i've done, i had to change out the water in my 30 Gallon trash bin. Not much trouble, but it wasn't cooling as efficiently, and the distillate was starting to come out a bit warmer than i was comfortable with. So, yes, my current set up pretty much works well and handles what i need it to. But, As i mentioned, i had 2 ports installed on my kettle by BH, a 1" NPT Coupling, which the "Still Heater" 1500 Watt element screws right into. It's a very easy, no fuss, clean way to heat my boiler and i'm quite happy with it. But, the 2nd port, which is positioned slightly higher and 90 degrees rotation from the first port, is a 2" Triclamp ferrule. I currently have it capped off with a 2" TC Endcap. My plan was always to get a second element, so I could speed up my warm up time, and hopefully with a condenser upgrade, do some very fast stripping runs. So, the two upgrades pretty much work in tandem. No point in upgrading to shotgun unless i get the 2nd element in, and no point in getting the element unless i have a condenser to handle it (except for the warm up time).
My thought for the other element... Get an Element Guard kit from Stilldragon, and order an element on Amazon to wire into it. I'm thinking 2000 Watts, maybe 1500. I'd probably only use my controller on one of the elements though. If i get a 2000 Watt, i'd probably transfer the controller from the "Still heater" to that one.

I'll have to see how well the Through tubes work on my spirit run, then re address the dephlegmator idea.

Again, thanks for your response.

[zapata]

On the spirit run, I always aim for quality. When I want neutr, I want neutral. Not 95%, and sure as heck not 85 or 90%! I want sweet pure with. When I have a schedule to keep I don't rush the run and lower quality, just cut it short. You can always come back to it another day and finish off. Hopefully you'll be able to reach full reflux for equilibrium for 30 minutes or so, then take off at a steady 95+. Get what you get in the time you have. But to me, rushing it by taking a lower proof just wastes the whole run. I'm giddy as a school girl with good neutral, and thoroughly unimpressed with myself if all I can say was "well, it came off at more than 90%.

For collecting from a shotty, you can just run into a funnel, no reducer needed. Or reduce, go to a tube, whatever floats your goat.

Sounds like you have a coolant issue more than a condenser issue. You may have a condenser issue too, but you won't know till you push it or someone else chimes in with the effective capacity of that liebig. But heating your reservoir up will happen at the same rate with any condenser, it is pretty much heated at the same power you feed the boiler. A shotty on your current 1500 w will heat your res up just as fast. A shotty and upgraded element will just heat it up faster. A bigger res or a radiator to cool the res may solve the problem you describe better than a bigger condenser.

Good luck with that neut!

[CatCrap]

Well here's the verdict. I like my PS2 and my setup, but it has it's drawbacks, and will take me some time to learn how to drive my still. I think that is to be expected, and it wouldn't be very much for or exciting if it was super easy and simple. Distilling is hard! Not But in the best way. IFL a challenge! While i would still call it a success, it was without a doubt my most challenging and longest run to date. Also my first run using the reflux condenser and column extension on my PS2 and first neutral run that wasn't a strip. I found it to be quite fiddly, and require a lot of attention. Now, that's fine, of course, i'm not expecting this to be some sort of set it and forget it deal, but, i was surprised how much tuning it required.

The major problem i ran into was surging. I found that i could put the heat right around half way, with the reflux wide open. I'd slowly increase the heat ever so slightly, until i got a slow drip. It would be a very slow drip for about ten minutes, and coming out at a respectable 90%. But, quickly the output would speed up, and it would gush out a steady stream, then return to a fast drip, then a few minutes later gush out thick stream for a few seconds. So, i'd set it back down to half power until i had no output. Then, i tried using the stock plastic ball valve that came with the PS2 to control the RC flow. I found it pretty hard to get any fine tuning. There was a small part of the rotation i could twist, and alter the flow, but after about 45 degrees it would turn off the flow completely and i'd start getting the output coming out too fast. So, i would go back and forth with this, fiddling with the heat, the RC valve, when the surging would get to bad i'd turn the heat down and valve open all the way, and start over from no output, to slow drip, to the ideal 2-3 drips per second, then it would speed up on it's own and start surging. I tried as much as i could to get the heat and RC cooling dialed in just right, but it was a battle, for about 8 hours total run time after heat up. I pretty much tried to follow the instructions i'd read on here. To get it up to temp, then turn the reflux up full blast to stop the output, but as i said, i had to have the heat at only around halfway to be able to stop the flow completely. When doing a strip run, with one 30" column and one plug of copper, i could turn the heat on full blast, and the product condenser could pretty much keep up, giving a nice steady stream with no vapor loss. SO, i was quite surprised that the reflux through tubes were so inefficient i could only run half power.

I packed the columns fully, with 5 rolls of copper mesh, and 5 ss scrubbies. I packed around the through tubes as best i could, but it's kind of tricky to get the mesh crammed in there by the tubes. I packed the column to the top of the through tubes, but left the column open for the last 2-3" before the output "lyne arm" leading to the condenser. I packed the columns almost as tight as i could. I probably could have stuffed a bit more packing, but they were packed pretty tight. i could breathe through them, without a lot of resistance, but some. So, i'm not sure if i packed too tight, too loose,should have packed all the way to the top, should have used either SS Scrubbies or Copper Mesh Roll Plugs, but not a combination of both. I'm not sure if i just wasn't running things right, or if this kind of surging is normal. I yielded about 6.5 qts, off of 5.2 gallons of 30%. I could have gone a little longer, but it was getting really late and i was starting to fall asleep, so for safety i just had to shut down. I didn't see a drop in ABV, and i didn't detect much tails, possibly a hint on the very last jar. I expect that i probably left some Ethanol left in the boiler. I may try to start it up and run again, but i'm definitely going to check inside the boiler and make sure the liquid is at a safe level, that the element will stay submerged for the remainder of the run. Does anyone have recommendation on how to proceed? If there isn't enough liquid to safely run again, i could save it and do a couple strips and add them to this. Or i could add my wash that will be ready in a day or two, WPOSW 9%, the same more or less as was used to yield the low wines i ran in this run.

After heating up, i had the RC valve wide open, and turned the heat down until i had no output, and I let the column sit in "reflux" for around 40 minutes, before pulling off the fores, 200ml, then back to full reflux for 30 min, then went ahead with collection, starting with a couple pint jars, then moving onto quart jars. After airing 24 hours, i found that only the 1st pint jar had any sort of headsy smell, but i am pretty inexperienced with this. This was my first neutral spririt run, and only my 4th spirit run in total. The ABV in each jar was from 80-90%, so i'm fairly happy with that. I did not take an aggregate ABV.

As everyone told me to expect, the slower i ran it, the slower the output and less drips, the higher the ABV. But, even when it was surging, or running at a twisted stream, the ABV was still high, and overall, i'm happy with the flavor taste and smell of the product. So, i definitely need some more experience and have some learning to do. I'll probably pack the columns with only copper mesh next time. I've already insulated the column. I think one huge improvement would be to get a needle valve for the RC flow control. Maybe i should also try to completely split the RC and PC? That would take a second reservoir and pump?

Just got a delivery today from brewhaus of more mesh, another 25L fermenter and some other goods. So, I'm going to keep producing Neutral, WPSOW, in one fermenter, and i think my next project will be Rum. I've a taste for rum lately, really starting to discover how amazing,complex and varied it can be, as i was mostly a fan of whiskey, bourbon for a while. This hobby has definitely opened up my taste buds to trying all different kinds of liquor. I diluted a 750ml of neutral to 50% as a gift for my stepdad, and i used a lot of the rest of the neutral to make some panty droppers and infusions. I'm really excited to see how they turn out. With my background and career in food, and as i cook and chef for 80% of my waking hours, my imagination is really going wild thinking of all the fun schnapps, cordials, liqueurs and infusions i can make. Can't wait to make some rum and brandy and make some really exciting drinks. I really love this hobby, it has become such an adventure, learning all i can about distillation and all things related. There is such a crazy amount of knowledge to be gained. I look forward to attempting to build my own still someday. I'll get to really practice soldering, electrical, plumbing and metal work, and get proficient at those skills that i have very little experience and knowledge of. After fiddling with the through tube RC, i'd sure love to build my own Dephlegmator... although that would be an incredibly challenging project to undertake for someone who has about 1 hour of soldering practice.

But, onward and upward.. Thank you everyone at HD for contributing to this forum, and sharing your knowledge and experience. Can't wait to keep learning and exploring this adventure!!

[kimbodious]

If your PC must be vertical stick some teased out SS pot scrubber up there.

I have the SD Big Baby condenser; it can knockdown everything the 2200W element in the boiler can send up to it

[CatCrap]

What is the big baby? I haven't seen or heard of that.

And no, it diednt have to be vertical or angled. It's my choice, asbim still in the purchasing and planning phase.

With the poor performance of the through tubes, I think, it looks like my upgrade will be a 2" dephlegmator on top of a 30" columb, or two, then into a 45 bend and a 90 bend, then into a 2" shotgun condenser, to a 2"×3/4" end cap reducer, into a jar.

Anyone have any comments regarding my packing or the surging I experienced? I'm defintely not asking anyone to spoon feed me the answer, but I'm open to suggestions from the enormous wealth of knowledge that is HD. Best way to figure it out is practice. I'll give this another shot soon. Maybe I'll try a single run or a 1.5, so I don't have to collect 4 strip runs to try reflux again

[Twisted Brick]

It's a different matter for reflux. 3" is 2.25 times the area of 2", which basically means you can feed 2.25x the power, and takeoff 2.25x faster. Up to you what it's worth.

2.25x faster means less than half the time to complete the same run.

I was fortunate to be in a position to build my 3" modular pot/CCVM rig, and pleased as punch with its versatility and speed. It required only basic cutting and soldering skills, and if you can swing 3", you won't regret it.

As for the shotgun... I concur with your reasoning, that a vertical logically could allow some distillate to pass right on through without cooling and condensing. So, if i do go that route, I'll plan to do the 90 degree bend into 45 degree bend into Shotgun. I just remembered that i'll also need a reducer coming off the takeoff point of the shotgun, for collection. Assuming it 's a 2" shotgun... what reducer would be best? 2" to 3/4"... then to something else to actually collect out of? I've seen a few different reducers: concentric, bowl shaped, and i guess regular shape.. Does one put a collection jar underneath the business end of that reducer? Or put another piece of some sort to lead to the collection jar? Like a compression union fitting and 1/4" Copper pipe or something? Not sure the best way to install a transition to copper pipe from TC SS pieces. Just trying to picture the final collection point, from 2" Shotgun condenser to ?????? to Jar.

At some point you may want to track the output ABV and collect through a parrot. This will allow you to monitor the progress of your run and when to stop collecting. Here is how I set up my rig during the cleaning and sac runs.

[CatCrap]

You make a great point. A parrot most def needs to be part of my future upgrades. I usually use the refractometer, but it only goes up to 80, and is hard to read very precisely.

A parrot would be the perfect project to practice soldering on.

[kimbodious]

What is the big baby? I haven't seen or heard of that.

It is the Stilldragon shotgun condenser that can be used a reflux condenser in a LM/VM or used as a product condenser as I do on mt pot still and CCVM. I have a bit of teased out SS pot scrubbers in the vapour tubes of the condenser for more surface area for the vapour to condense on; that increases the efficiency of the condenser.

The surging sounds like flooding. This is where condensate cannot get down the column fast enough; the level rises until some spiils out through the offtake. Flooding is generally a sign of either or both of two things: packing is too tight and or vapour flow is too great (too much power to the element). The voids in the packing in the column are probaly not helping either.

[CatCrap]

Ooh.. ok.. flooding is the likely culprit then. I'll try packing only copper mesh and a bit looser next time. I also have some teased out ss scrubber pushed way up to the top of my liebig. It helped when I was getting a little vapor loss when the best was all the way maxed on strip runs. I believe I've read that a not of ss scrubber in the condenser, but at the output end, can help with surging. But probably not if the surging is caused by flooding. So, I'll address the flooding and see if I can get that solved.

Thank s

[CatCrap]

Woohoo. Ordered a ton of stuff. Bit upgrades on the way. Pictures soon to follow and of course I'll document my first runs. 2" as long dephlegmator, SD, 2"×24" shotgun pr oduct condenser, from ade, a second element 2000w, a second pump so ill run one to the pc and one to the rc. A 3rd 30l fermenter, and 36 pint jars, 24 at jars n lots more. Super excited. Now we are getting serious. I ❤ distilling!!

[Stonecutter]

Resurrecting this thread as I’m going to be building a CCVM and wanted to see what the latest and greatest opinions were before I braised the elbow onto the tee.
I see a lot of veteran guys using them either way.
I read a post by Prairiepiss that mentioned pooling could occur at the top of the condenser if it is angled.
Posts above indicate that “fall through” can be an issue with vertical designs. What do you guys think?

[kimbodious]

If I only had one triclamp join on my CCVM reflux column, it would be between the tee and the elbow. That way you can adjust the angle of the shotgun PC to whatever you need.

[Sporacle]

Agree with Kimbo I would have changed my T to incorporate a ferrule at the T as compared to soldering a 90 on and having the ferrule face for connecting my condensor horizontal. I should have had the 90 on top of my shotgun

[Salt Must Flow]

If you pitch a shotgun at an angle then you will get whatever pooling your shotgun can with your particular design. If you run it vertically then you won't. I have no idea what "suffering from fall through" is. I searched this site what "fall through" is and my search results only resulted in this topic.

I run my shotgun vertical and on the output I have a cap with a hole and a fitting that has copper tubing bent to the direction I want my condensate to run to.

[Sporacle]

I understand that there will be denser vapour on the lower side of the angle and that the lower tubes will handle more vapour if you angle your shotgun, but if the temp gradient is correct through the shotgun, vapour should be entering through the top and condensing as it passes through the shotgun. Or am I totally wrong and does some of the vapour condense prior to the entry point

[Saltbush Bill]

“fall through” can be an issue with vertical designs.

What the hell is that ? Ive never head it mentioned anywhere before.
Edit: scrolled up and found it

A vertical condenser can suffer fall through, where condensate drops right down the middle without running down a side. Practically it won't make a difference

by Prairiepiss that mentioned pooling could occur at the top of the condenser if it is angled.

Once on an angle they can pool at both the bottom and top if you don't give some thought to how its built.
Back when people first started using them in the hobby they all dangled vertically from the side of Plated columns.
Wasn't till relatively recent times that people started trying to hang them on an angle from pot stills, prior that that 99% of people seemed quite content to run a liebig.
Seems its got to the point now where those new to the hobby think that if they don't have a shotgun their still is somehow incomplete or inferior.
It's a crazy world we live in.
Shotguns are complete over kill in many many cases imo.

[Yummyrum]

Or am I totally wrong and does some of the vapour condense prior to the entry point

I’d say that is the case for any style of condenser if the vapour speed is too high . Push vapour speed even higher or reduce coolant flow a bit more and it will be coming out the end un condensed.

[Sporacle]

I'm actually just figuring out the outlet side of my shotgun now, just making sure that the taper doesn't allow for pooling should I angle it. Previously had it sort of junked up on the outlet enough to get by, lived with it enough now to set it with solder. Plus I think I have found the limit of my liebig and submersible pump so shotty for stripping from now on

[Stonecutter]

“fall through” can be an issue with vertical designs.

What the hell is that ? Ive never head it mentioned anywhere before.

A vertical condenser can suffer fall through, where condensate drops right down the middle without running down a side. Practically it won't make a difference

by Prairiepiss that mentioned pooling could occur at the top of the condenser if it is angled.

Once on an angle they can pool at both the bottom and top if you don't give some thought to how its built.
Back when people first started using them in the hobby they all dangled vertically from the side of Plated columns.
Wasn't till relatively recent times that people started trying to hang them on an angle from pot stills, prior that that 99% of people seemed quite content to run a liebig.
Seems its got to the point now where those new to the hobby think that if they don't have a shotgun their still is somehow incomplete or inferior.
It's a crazy world we live in.
Shotguns are complete over kill in many many cases imo.

Apparently I failed to utilize any reading comprehension skills at all regarding zapatas post. I wish there was a head slap emoji.

I do appreciate Kimbo’s suggestion to a tri clamp. Sometimes the simplest solutions are right there in front of you.
Thanks for the input guys. I’ve been reading a ton about the CCVM setup and is so straightforward it’s almost impossible to f*ck up. Just getting the jitters a bit before making final decisions.

Edit: you can see TwistedBrick went with that same clamp design in his post above!…. Shiiiiiit

[Yummyrum]

OK , just had to find out how much this pooling bullshit was. 2.5” shotty with 7x 1/2” tubes .
So this is about 45° angle .

I’ve orientated Shotty so that the maximum amount of pooling will occur.

Hmmmm less than 1ml .I’d say WTF , who gives a Rats arse .

Now lets get it a bit more horizontal.

OMG …. Less than a teaspoon full .

I’d say pooling in an angled shotty is a crock of shit .
Most slant plate bokas will hold about 20-30mls …. and lets not even go there with parrots

[Stonecutter]

I salute your courage to do what it takes to squash the old wives tails Yummy!
No effort was spared in your unwavering dedication to tilt that shotgun in all manner of contortions in order to subdue the beast of hearsay.
May this crock of shit rest near the leaning riser experiment.
I’ll be sure to check the construction in whatever shotty I end up using.

[Saltbush Bill]

As I said Yummy you need to think before building one, Ive seen examples that would hold a fair bit more than that.

[Yummyrum]

I salute your courage to do what it takes to squash the old wives tails Yummy!

May this crock of shit rest near the leaning riser experiment.

I thankyou Stonecutter . Sometimes the geeks pose these theoretical things and they get taken as gospel .

As for the “leaning Riser “ experiment , I do call it was on a “Leaning Column “ ….. gotta get the terms right.
….my inner geek goes nuts otherwise

[Sporacle]

OK , just had to find out how much this pooling bullshit was. 2.5” shotty with 7x 1/2” tubes .
So this is about 45° angle .

Obviously as Stoney said it was an exhaustive process, what would happen if you placed the angled shotgun on a angled riser or column, maybe you could find the time to put those two together

[Yummyrum]

As I said Yummy you need to think before building one, Ive seen examples that would hold a fair bit more than that.

For sure , a few tubes in a ridiculously fat shell might accrue a bit more , but I can’t say I’ve seen that many builds with the tubes more than a few mm in from the shell .

Damn , now I’m going to check my 4” Deglag .Not that I would use it as an angled shotty , but it does have a very big gap between shell and tubes .

It might give an Idea about pooling levels if one had a 4” Shotty . Bit if you had need for a 4” shotty ,how relavant si the amount pooled verses amount collected ?

I’d say its in a similar scale to what one would expect from a smaller sized shotty .

[Yummyrum]

OK , just had to find out how much this pooling bullshit was. 2.5” shotty with 7x 1/2” tubes .
So this is about 45° angle .

Obviously as Stoney said it was an exhaustive process, what would happen if you placed the angled shotgun on a angled riser or column, maybe you could find the time to put those two together

Damn it Sporicle , we don’t have the “ Bend over and wave my arse at you “ emogin here … Cheers

[Yummyrum]

Righto
4” with 7x 3/4” at a pretty high angle , and aligned for maximum collection .

Whoo … 20mls almost as much as a 2” boka slant plate holds .