Heating element wire getting very hot

[Shovelhead89]

I picked up a 5500 watt heating element and controller from a local guy he imports from China. Wired it up with 6 gauge wire but the wire that came with the kit that goes from the controller to the element is relatively small (14 gauge) and after about 30 minutes it got very hot so I shut it down. Unlike other controllers I've seen I set the temperature and not the amps. This isn't the only kit he's sold so you'd think other people would have complained if that was the issue. Think it's just that the wire is too small?

[Hank Reardon]

The 5500w I have did not come with wire. Do you know what size the wire was from the supplier? Also, it may be possible that other buyers were only running 120v supply on one leg. That is unknown.

Do you have a picture that folks can see?

[bentstick]

Your wire is to small go with 10 ga min! And Pic would be nice to check out your controler,the builder of your controler sounds like he does not have to much knowledge on electric and saftey

[Swedish Pride]

I have 2.5mm (10Gauge) and it gets warm too, It's rated at 25AMP and the element pulls 23AMP full tilt.
I may go up to 4 (6gauge) or 6 mm next time I mess around with it, the cable is just that little bit short as well.

so if you are getting a new cable go for 6 gauge, that's what I would do

[bentstick]

I have 2.5mm (10Gauge) and it gets warm too, It's rated at 25AMP and the element pulls 23AMP full tilt.
I may go up to 4 (6gauge) or 6 mm next time I mess around with it, the cable is just that little bit short as well.

so if you are getting a new cable go for 6 gauge, that's what I would do

The 10 AWG (5.26 mm) 3/C soow 600 volt Cord I use with 2 conductor wires is rated for 30 amps for under 50 ft runs anything over 50 ft it drops to 25 if in doubt of my posts here ya go

http://www.stayonline.com/reference-cir ... acity.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Shovelhead89]

Pictures (the forums image upload program is horrible)

[Shovelhead89]

More pictures

[Pesty]

Ground lug to the keg.. do you have one?

That yellow plug with wires hanging out.. bad bad bad! as the wire hangs. it puts pressure on the connections.

[rad14701]

Pictures (the forums image upload program is horrible)

Works fine for me... What seems to be the problem, other than the fact that you're probably taking pictures far bigger than you need too and perhaps expecting the forum software to resolve that for you automatically - which it doesn't...???

[Shovelhead89]

Switched the wire to 6 gauge and it runs cool as a cucumber now. The only issue I have is I need to turn down the heat to the element but I can only figure out how to turn it on/off. Anyone have any experience with this controller?

[acfixer69]

Like you said in your OP "Unlike other controllers I've seen I set the temperature and not the amps." Says it all. That is not the controller needed for a still boiler. You need to control power not temperature. Sorry

AC

[shadylane]

You will need some more parts before the controller will do what is needed.
But all is not lost.
I see a nice box, 20 amp GFI breaker and 3 phase contactor with a set of NO contacts.
The contactor and temperature controller would be useful for an over temp shut down.
And - or to control the heat on a fermenter.

[acfixer69]

Sorry again didn't mean to imply all is lost. That is a nice power center but it will fill up fast with all the controller parts that could have been stand alone. When I buy a toy it's supposed to play out of the box. Well that's why most guys build there own stuff. Not being a negative. It's a nice power supply.

AC

[Shovelhead89]

Well it looks like I was kind of screwed over. What do I have to do to make this work?

[Hound Dog]

Well it looks like I was kind of screwed over. What do I have to do to make this work?

Read this.....
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=50385

[Shovelhead89]

Well it looks like I was kind of screwed over. What do I have to do to make this work?

Read this.....
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=50385

Thank you very much. Looks like I just need to wire in a potentiometer. Can anyone tell if my current relay can be adjusted with a potentiometer?

[rad14701]

Thank you very much. Looks like I just need to wire in a potentiometer. Can anyone tell if my current relay can be adjusted with a potentiometer?

What do you have for a controller...??? SSR...??? SCR...??? Make and model would help...

[bluefish_dist]

Probably not. The ssr's that work with a resistor are marked with a resistor symbol and value. Normal ssr's just show input voltage (I think). The super simple controller really does work well. I have one built for my elements. I also added one of the $10 volt amp meters. It makes heat control really easy. What did surprise me was that my voltage sags at full load.

[aduckyfour]

Pictures (the forums image upload program is horrible)

Back of panel look like? Pitcher please thank.

[raketemensch]

And - or to control the heat on a fermenter.

If you're just getting started, this may sound annoying, but once you really get going you'll see how valuable shady's advice is.

[Hound Dog]

Probably not. The ssr's that work with a resistor are marked with a resistor symbol and value. Normal ssr's just show input voltage (I think). The super simple controller really does work well. I have one built for my elements. I also added one of the $10 volt amp meters. It makes heat control really easy. What did surprise me was that my voltage sags at full load.

Bluefish is correct. The SSR you want to use has a squiggly line indicating it is variable. Note the symbol between 3 and 4 in the picture.

Find this one on Amazon and the first reviewer even says he uses it for his brew kettle.

[Shovelhead89]

Probably not. The ssr's that work with a resistor are marked with a resistor symbol and value. Normal ssr's just show input voltage (I think). The super simple controller really does work well. I have one built for my elements. I also added one of the $10 volt amp meters. It makes heat control really easy. What did surprise me was that my voltage sags at full load.

Bluefish is correct. The SSR you want to use has a squiggly line indicating it is variable. Note the symbol between 3 and 4 in the picture.

rps20160608_205336.jpg

Find this one on Amazon and the first reviewer even says he uses it for his brew kettle.

Ah I see, so I need to replace the SSR first and then add a potentiometer. Pain in the ass but doesn't look to exspensive atleast.

[Shovelhead89]

Thank you very much. Looks like I just need to wire in a potentiometer. Can anyone tell if my current relay can be adjusted with a potentiometer?

What do you have for a controller...??? SSR...??? SCR...??? Make and model would help...

My knowledge on it is limited to everything that the picture shows that I posted of you scroll up.