Generic Chinese heating elements?
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Generic Chinese heating elements?
Hi Everyone,
I am building a Keg boiler. I have my keg arriving in a few days and I was planning on TIG welding a 2" tri-clamp to it for mounting a heating element. There are a fair few 3500KW heating elements with a 2" tc on them from china on ebay. Has anyone got any opinions on these? Are they safe? Do you get a 3500KW one or are the advertising numbers a lie? . I was also going to get a pulse controller so I can run it continuously but at different wattage's, does that sound right?
Thanks!
I am building a Keg boiler. I have my keg arriving in a few days and I was planning on TIG welding a 2" tri-clamp to it for mounting a heating element. There are a fair few 3500KW heating elements with a 2" tc on them from china on ebay. Has anyone got any opinions on these? Are they safe? Do you get a 3500KW one or are the advertising numbers a lie? . I was also going to get a pulse controller so I can run it continuously but at different wattage's, does that sound right?
Thanks!
- still_stirrin
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Re: Generic Chinese heating elements?
I suggest going to the Related Electric Accessories forum and read through the electrical controller build threads. More (and better) answers there. This is the Boiler forum.
But to answer your question: 3500kW = 3.5 MW (that’s megawatts). Probably a typo. 3.5kW is reasonable, a thousand times that is rediculous!
ss
But to answer your question: 3500kW = 3.5 MW (that’s megawatts). Probably a typo. 3.5kW is reasonable, a thousand times that is rediculous!
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
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My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
Re: Generic Chinese heating elements?
3.5kw is going to be slow for a 15.5g keg. Consider 5500watts, its easily available and will give you a heat up time less than an hour.
+1 to what SS said, you WILL need a power controller.
+1 to what SS said, you WILL need a power controller.
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Re: Generic Chinese heating elements?
I have used a few conversion kits and in my opinion the still dragon element mount is about as nice as they get. A good stainless 5500 watt element ( brewing suppliers and amazon have those) plus a controller will get you going. Lots of good conrtroller info here in this site,
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Re: Generic Chinese heating elements?
Well my main issue, being in the UK is getting 5500w. I've just realised I got my maths wrong and I am limited to a 3kw heating element on the standard 13 amp plug set up. The only way I can get to that wattage is by looking at disconnecting my oven each time as that is on a 40A circuit. That seems a bit unrealistic! I mean I can run a decent welder off a 13A circuit. I'm sure I can boil 30L (the keg won't be full) run of wash in an insulated barrel?
Re: Generic Chinese heating elements?
Hi Paddy
I'm in the UK as well I run a 3kw on a 55 litre boiler just make sure you use heat resistant 2.5mm or emersion heater cable and decent heavy duty plugs and don't use another high rated appliance on the same socket.
I get a full stripping run done in 3 1/2 hours on full power and spirit runs and reflux runs don't even use the full 3kw. Heat up can be a bit slow mine usually just over an hour but you can plan for that.
Mine is a generic Chinese you'd be hard pushed to find one made in the UK. I've had no problems on many runs but just buy a spare incase.
Hope this helps
Lee
I'm in the UK as well I run a 3kw on a 55 litre boiler just make sure you use heat resistant 2.5mm or emersion heater cable and decent heavy duty plugs and don't use another high rated appliance on the same socket.
I get a full stripping run done in 3 1/2 hours on full power and spirit runs and reflux runs don't even use the full 3kw. Heat up can be a bit slow mine usually just over an hour but you can plan for that.
Mine is a generic Chinese you'd be hard pushed to find one made in the UK. I've had no problems on many runs but just buy a spare incase.
Hope this helps
Lee
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Re: Generic Chinese heating elements?
Thanks lee that helps a lot! I was actually just looking in the kitchen about fitting a 32amp industrial plug under the counter acting as a take-off from the cooker circuit as I could get 32A at 230v then and run what I wanted. It will be A LOT easier to run a 13A plug though (A lot cheaper to). Maybe I will have a look at the kitchen circuit tomorrow and decide what to do! I calculated the heat up time on a 3KW heater to be around 46 minutes assuming I have a 30L wash in there. That isn't too bad!
Re: Generic Chinese heating elements?
All the times I have given are for a 50 litre charge if you intend on running 30 litres imo 3kw will be enough perhaps try the cheapest first. I like your idea of the 32A connector though I'd be interested how it goes if you go that way.paddy1000111 wrote:Thanks lee that helps a lot! I was actually just looking in the kitchen about fitting a 32amp industrial plug under the counter acting as a take-off from the cooker circuit as I could get 32A at 230v then and run what I wanted. It will be A LOT easier to run a 13A plug though (A lot cheaper to). Maybe I will have a look at the kitchen circuit tomorrow and decide what to do! I calculated the heat up time on a 3KW heater to be around 46 minutes assuming I have a 30L wash in there. That isn't too bad!
I noticed that you are tig welding your Tri clamp I wish I had that skill I intend to pay someone when I get round to converting my keg. Stilling is keeping me busy at the moment I love this hobby and all it's possibilities. There's a link below of a keg conversion that impressed me hope it helps
viewtopic.php?f=88&t=69859
Lee
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Re: Generic Chinese heating elements?
Thanks Lee!
I will probably do a 32A plug install and take some pictures to show the process. I am an ex-aircraft engineer that became a builder so I have quite a few relevant skills! I actually fitted my kitchen which makes the job A LOT easier as I know where all the wiring is. I feel better about running a 32A circuit at half its rating, rather than a 13A plug at its max chooch. I have a FLIR thermal camera and when running a 2000W boiler for my current still the factory wiring loom feels warm and its toasty on the IR.
In the UK the current rating for a normal ring circuit is 32A so there is nothing really stopping anyone from adding a 32A industrial plug to their set up. The only thing restricting the 13A side is the socket and the plug that get rated to 13A (and the double gang sockets are rated to 13A split between both sockets). They just have to be aware that if they intend to run the circuit and plug at max chooch (7360W) then they have to make sure that nothing else is plugged in and running on that circuit. If you have a double or single gang socket with two sets of three wires on the back of it then you are good to go on the 32A front. Maybe have an electrician do a EICR test on it to make sure the circuit is in good nick first though (I am going to do one on Friday as I have the day off). At the end of the day that's what MCB's are for, stop the wiring melting!
I am probably going to run a 3000KW heater and see how it goes, the KW rating is energy and a 25L mash boiling in 46 minutes vs 25 doesn't really matter to me and the electricity bill will be the same. I will just be stressing the household wiring a lot less at 3kw and it always means I can run it off a 13A plug in a pinch.
I have also ordered up all the bits for a proper controller. Still Dragon do a complete kit for 29 Euros with free postage which is about £3 more than if I order all the bits individually so I went with that for ease of use. I was thinking about getting the 5.5kw heater and then I can always wind it down on the controller to use on a normal 13A plug if I ever need to. One thing I learnt from the aircraft industry is its cheaper to overbuild in the long run than scrimp a pound now and have to replace stuff!
I will probably do a 32A plug install and take some pictures to show the process. I am an ex-aircraft engineer that became a builder so I have quite a few relevant skills! I actually fitted my kitchen which makes the job A LOT easier as I know where all the wiring is. I feel better about running a 32A circuit at half its rating, rather than a 13A plug at its max chooch. I have a FLIR thermal camera and when running a 2000W boiler for my current still the factory wiring loom feels warm and its toasty on the IR.
In the UK the current rating for a normal ring circuit is 32A so there is nothing really stopping anyone from adding a 32A industrial plug to their set up. The only thing restricting the 13A side is the socket and the plug that get rated to 13A (and the double gang sockets are rated to 13A split between both sockets). They just have to be aware that if they intend to run the circuit and plug at max chooch (7360W) then they have to make sure that nothing else is plugged in and running on that circuit. If you have a double or single gang socket with two sets of three wires on the back of it then you are good to go on the 32A front. Maybe have an electrician do a EICR test on it to make sure the circuit is in good nick first though (I am going to do one on Friday as I have the day off). At the end of the day that's what MCB's are for, stop the wiring melting!
I am probably going to run a 3000KW heater and see how it goes, the KW rating is energy and a 25L mash boiling in 46 minutes vs 25 doesn't really matter to me and the electricity bill will be the same. I will just be stressing the household wiring a lot less at 3kw and it always means I can run it off a 13A plug in a pinch.
I have also ordered up all the bits for a proper controller. Still Dragon do a complete kit for 29 Euros with free postage which is about £3 more than if I order all the bits individually so I went with that for ease of use. I was thinking about getting the 5.5kw heater and then I can always wind it down on the controller to use on a normal 13A plug if I ever need to. One thing I learnt from the aircraft industry is its cheaper to overbuild in the long run than scrimp a pound now and have to replace stuff!
Re: Generic Chinese heating elements?
Thanks for the info Paddy. I'm a bit of a jack of all trades look forward to hearing from 32amp adaption and keep us posted on your keg build hopefully you'll inspire me to get off my arse and do mine.
Hear you on the buy once cry once mantra I do try but I've found in this hobby what I think is over buying turns out to be not the case a little further down the line but hell that's fun of it.
I have plans to build a brew shed at the back of my garage but my garden is on a hill so it involves retaining walls and the such but I'm hoping to make a start in the spring Only been here 3 years and everything else needs doing also hopefully I'll be straight in 10 years.
Look forward to hearing from you on your builds etc.
Lee
Hear you on the buy once cry once mantra I do try but I've found in this hobby what I think is over buying turns out to be not the case a little further down the line but hell that's fun of it.
I have plans to build a brew shed at the back of my garage but my garden is on a hill so it involves retaining walls and the such but I'm hoping to make a start in the spring Only been here 3 years and everything else needs doing also hopefully I'll be straight in 10 years.
Look forward to hearing from you on your builds etc.
Lee