upgrade to 30 gallon boiler. build or buy

[Chauncey]

Ok so im going to want it to be stainless

should i buy a barrel. i found some imperfect 30 gal 304 stainless barrels 1.5mm thickness for like 299 plus shipping(370 total) and some of them have triclamp fittings on the tops/for bungs/drains etc already

or a fusti. 28 gallon one can be had for under 300 but i hear those are really thin...

or have my welder homie fabricate one with me out of stainless sheet. thinking a 17inch diameter by 30.5inch height cylinder. approximately anyway i think that comes to 30ish gallons. i feel like the stainless for that will cost me more than a premade vessel but im looking for some input before i waste time pricing it.

just spitball me some thoughts/pros cons/experience/links. just wanna know what the folks i post with on the daily here think.

i have a few considerations like what kind of burner would i use to heat it with propane, column stuff

column definitely gonna be a flute. thinking a 4inch 5 plate guy

[still_stirrin]

I think the quickest and most economical path to a large boiler is the 26 gallon milk can boilers. They’re equipped with tri-clover element ferrules and a large 6” manway/clean out lid on the top. They’re heavy enough to easily support not only the boiler charge, but also the still column on top.

There are several suppliers online, so shop around. The prices are very reasonable for that size of vessel.

One question....have you outgrown your 1/2 barrel boiler already? It is a fantastic size for a hobbiest. Or, are you intending to “expand your operations of service”?
ss

edit to add:
Also, moving foward (larger system), I strongly suggest shifting to electric power, especially if you are planning to add a CM (flute). CM’s require control of not only the coolant flow, but also the heat input. Electric power gives you much more (better) control. Propane is OK for a lot of heating power, but the fine control of it is very difficult. A small breeze in your still house can dramaticaly affect vapor production.

Thought provoking? I hope so.

[Chauncey]

Haven't outgrown it. It's more of a long game thing. I made a goal to eventually build a 4inch flute before I started the first of my last three builds ...so over the next couple months I want to make a plan, parts list, and save some money towards my next build. While collecting parts and materials along the way.

The flute will be able to use my current boiler and I have a good bit of copper on the side for a shotgun condenser and deflag, plates, sight glasses etc. But I'll aim to have a bigger one for.it too

[Chauncey]

In addition, I was considering going electric. It's just newer ground than the other new ground I'm broaching for myself alrdy

[NineInchNails]

I'd buy a drum and build it out. It would be ideal if you owned a tig welder so that you could completely build it on your own. It's really handy for heating a lot of water as well as for use as a boiler.

I welded a 6" TriClamp ferrule on top for access and with an adapter I can attach a pot still head. I welded a 2" TriClamp ferrule near the bottom for electric element and a 2" coupling to install ball valve for draining. Just for fun I also welded 2 stainless 'weld spuds' on the side for other uses (thermowell or recirculation).

I'd look into going electric if you haven't already.

[corene1]

Something to think about when building your own boiler is what size sheet is available. Standard sheet is typically 48X96 inches so working with dimensions that will not waste material is a good idea. That being said you could make a boiler 20 inches in diameter and 24 inches tall using 1/2 of the sheet leaving the other 1/2 for the top and bottom. I priced a 48X96 inch sheet of 16 gauge 304 stainless about a month ago for a mash tun I am planning and it was $275 dollars at the local metal supply house. Then add fabrication costs.

[shadylane]

Something to think about when building your own boiler is what size sheet is available. Standard sheet is typically 48X96 inches so working with dimensions that will not waste material is a good idea. That being said you could make a boiler 20 inches in diameter and 24 inches tall using 1/2 of the sheet leaving the other 1/2 for the top and bottom. I priced a 48X96 inch sheet of 16 gauge 304 stainless about a month ago for a mash tun I am planning and it was $275 dollars at the local metal supply house. Then add fabrication costs.

The words of a professional

[Fart Vader]

All good advice. Buy vs build is cheaper for sure.
Check out my build, the link is in my signature block.

[corene1]

Just a couple of more thoughts on the advantages of building a boiler. If it is propane fired you can build it with a heavier bottom for a more even heat distribution. If there is a metal supply or a fab shop that specializes in shearing and forming in your area you could look through their remnant piles for material. I do that quite often and when I find a longer and narrow piece I buy it. Just found a piece last week that was 24X68 of 18 gauge 304 SS for $60 dollars cash, that will be the boiler sides. That will give me a boiler at 21.8 inches diameter by 24 tall or right around 40 gallons. The smaller pieces for the top and bottom are easier to find.
As far as using a pre-made boiler you will still have to do some fabrication and typically barrels are very thin and tough to work with. This is another advantage to building your own, the material is thicker and easier to weld. I also prefer a boiler that is pretty square by dimensions, about as wide as it is tall, I like the stability this offers as well as keeping the overall height of the completed still lower, especially if you are making a multi plated column. I like all to use common connections on the boiler itself so I can interchange heads as well as combinations of different sized boilers. Here is a neat little calculator to help lay out the conical top of the boiler. https://www.i-logic.com/conecalc/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
As far as the column , copper is pretty but Stainless is easy to maintain and clean. I like to keep everything modular so I can configure the amount of plates any way I want. I use 48 ounce copper for the plate itself and wrap the edge with teflon tape and clamp it between the ferrule flanges. This makes a perfect seal for each section then use the standard ptfe seals at the boiler connection as well as the deflag and head connections. I also add a chamber at the bottom of the column to fill with copper rashing rings just to make sure there is enough copper in the vapor path for sulfides . Here are a couple of pics just to think about since all designs can be improved on.

[SwollenGoat23]

All good advice. Buy vs build is cheaper for sure.
Check out my build, the link is in my signature block.

Just read your entire journey on the mashimizer.........I was glued and hated to see the last post come up. Awesome build man!
Got to be cheaper to buy, but not for a "Custom" piece of equipment.

[Chauncey]

the mashimizer has inspired me. i want to be able to ferment and strip on the grain. then ill use the low wines to charge my keg which i will build a flute for after.

i may look into getting a barrel and modifying it for this purpose. details and posts to come in this thread or others as needed once i have researched more.