Starting my first build and planning to use an inverted keg as my boiler. I intend to use the sanke fitting (now on the bottom) to drain the boiler. Since I have never done this before, I wanted to validate some assumptions and see if anyone has a better way to do this.
As I understand it, I can remove the central spear from the keg, leaving just a 2 inch flat fitting. Then I can use a 2 inch PTFE tri-clamp gasket (flat on one side) and a tri-clamp to connect up my piping. The boiler will have leveling feet welded on so I should have plenty of room on the bottom for the piping. Good so far?
Next question is what is the most cost effective way to do this. I was thinking:
Sanke => 2" gasket => 2" tri-clamp x 1" NPT => 90 degree elbow => 1" ball valve
The only thing I dont like about inverting the keg and using the fitting for a drain, is that you are committed, always and forever, to running electric.
Adding a drain on the side and leaving the top of the keg the top, You have the option to run an external heat source (propane).
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What your intention for the top part.. which you have not stated on...
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Deplorable wrote: ↑Sun Aug 16, 2020 1:13 pm
The only thing I dont like about inverting the keg and using the fitting for a drain, is that you are committed, always and forever, to running electric.
Good catch. With the inverted keg I lock myself into electric. I think I am willing to accept that limitation for my first build, as I don’t have any propane equipment right now. Although, now that I think about it, I am planning on using this boiler to heat mash water. A cheap propane burner plus electric element would really speed things up.
Last edited by no_no_no on Sun Aug 16, 2020 1:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
StillerBoy wrote: ↑Sun Aug 16, 2020 1:34 pm
What your intention for the top part.. which you have not stated on...
I am thinking of a 6” ferrule with a reducer to 3”. I have not done enough reading yet on the pot still column, but 3” seems a good fit for a 50L boiler.
no_no_no wrote: ↑Sun Aug 16, 2020 1:03 pm
Hello everyone,
Starting my first build and planning to use an inverted keg as my boiler. I intend to use the sanke fitting (now on the bottom) to drain the boiler. Since I have never done this before, I wanted to validate some assumptions and see if anyone has a better way to do this.
As I understand it, I can remove the central spear from the keg, leaving just a 2 inch flat fitting. Then I can use a 2 inch PTFE tri-clamp gasket (flat on one side) and a tri-clamp to connect up my piping. The boiler will have leveling feet welded on so I should have plenty of room on the bottom for the piping. Good so far?
Next question is what is the most cost effective way to do this. I was thinking:
Sanke => 2" gasket => 2" tri-clamp x 1" NPT => 90 degree elbow => 1" ball valve
Here is my parts list:
PTFE gasket ($4)
2 inch tri-clamp ($7)
2 inch stainless tri-clamp x 1 inch NPT ($20)
1 inch stainless elbow ($9)
1 inch stainless ball valve ($12)
$52
Obvious pitfalls? Alternatives to consider?
Thank you in advance for the feedback!
Flipped works well in my opinion.
Things to consider is how you're going to route the drain. If no height constraints, just below the keg handle rim is fine.
1" is a good size for a drain, I did 3/4" but faster would be a minor help.
Deplorable wrote: ↑Sun Aug 16, 2020 1:13 pm
The only thing I dont like about inverting the keg and using the fitting for a drain, is that you are committed, always and forever, to running electric.
Good catch. With the inverted keg I lock myself into electric. I think I am willing to accept that limitation for my first build, as I don’t have any propane equipment right now. Although, now that I think about it, I am planning on using this boiler to heat mash water. A cheap propane burner plus electric element would really speed things up.
Dont get me wrong, the safety of electric elements, and the conveinence of being able to run your still indoors off the dryer outlet (assuming you're planning on 240V) is a huge plus, and shouldnt be dismissed.
I didnt build. I bought, but if I were to build a keg, It'd be a 4 or 6 inch port in the top with a cap for filling and cleaning, using the factory sanke fitting for the column. I'd add a 2" tri-clamp 2-3 inches off the bottom for an optional 5500W heating element, 90 degrees offset from the filling port, and a 1.5" tri-clamp just above where the bottom starts to cuve inward, and install sanitary drain directly below the filling port.
All that being said, When I priced all that out, it was pretty close to the cost of my 13 gallon milk can with the same options if I paid to have the ferrulles welded. Soldering your own would obvioulsy bring costs down considerably.
Fear and ridicule are the tactics of weak-minded cowards and tyrants who have no other leadership talent from which to draw in order to persuade.