Trouble sealing the immersion heater inlet

[chilimies]

Do you have any advice as to how I should fix this problem? I can't make the seal tight since the boiler has a concave wall. I'm using a ptfe-cardboard gasket that is pressed against the boiler wall using a 2" nut. I made a drawing to emphasize the problem.

[StillerBoy]

If I were in your shoes, I would made a gasket from teflon material itself, with tape wrapped, one on both sides, put the muscle to it (not being afraid to tighten).. cardboard material is to soft in my view for the task.. and the hole looks a bit oversize..

Here in NA, most are either soldered or welled..

Mars

[Demy]

Hi, the first thing that comes to mind is the expanded Teflon layer which has a high thickness and can be wrapped several times. Look https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... =2&t=80485

[howie]

i pondered the same problem when i was thinking about installing an element in my 300mm dia boiler.
i looked at compression fittings etc etc. but never found a suitable gasket.

as you are in there, i would try and wind a shed load of ptfe tape onto a suitably sized gasket.
but i would really concentrate on building up 2 opposing sides on the circle so you achieve a shape that fits the boiler wall and the nut.
maybe even do the same for the outside of the boiler.
good luck

[ErnieV]

Put a sledgehammer on the inside of the hole, then whack the outside with a hammer to flatten it out

Bit of a panel beating job!

Regards
ErnieV

[SassyFrass]

Would it be easier to solder or braize in a 1.5 or 2" ss ferrule?
What I'm planning when I pull the trigger to go electric.
Good luck.
SF

[still_stirrin]

Get one of these:



And a 2” (2” pipe OD) ferrule, T/C clamp and teflon gasket.

Better solution. Much more robust, ie - less maintenance.
ss

[zapata]

That's exactly what I would do. Plug that hole with a flat (curved) sheet (assuming it is oversized), and solder on a flange. Either pull a dimple or use one of the radius faced ones ala:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ ... ool2tc.htm
or
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2rsf.htm

[chilimies]

Guys I got it... for now. It's the cheap charlie solution and possibly what Stillerboy recommended(?)

I don't know why I was fixated on using a proper gasket on it rather than just using the ptfe-tape. I wrapped a thick layer of tape on to the base of the element so that the sealing area became quite wide and thick. The seal is sort of located on the outside of the boiler and the nut on the inside. Hand tightened and it hasn't leaked for hours. Yellow color here marks the spot where I rolled bunch of tape.

So I fired the element up for the very first time now and am afraid to pull it out until the water has cooled down. It says you must have it submerged in water at all times using it. Can I drain the boiler out of water when the element is still hot but unplugged from wall?

I have to look into your recommendations for a more permanent hassle free solution in the future. I'm trying to stay away from the tri clamp systems because I can only get them from China and I'm quite stubborn on not using anything on the still that is chinese. Maybe I will just solder a 2" fitting on the outside.

[StillerBoy]

Hand tightened and it hasn't leaked for hours.

That not good enough, requires it to be tighten very good..

Can I drain the boiler out of water when the element is still hot but unplugged from wall?

That's not an issue as long as no power it going to it.. otherwise, you require to purchase another element..

Mars

[Demy]

If you have the option to weld, then that's your best bet. As for Chinese stuff ..... I have seen a lot of Chinese stuff on seemingly non-Chinese online sites. Everything is in the right choice and where you are ... because you don't always have a shop at hand (certainly not me).

[shadylane]

Guys I got it... for now. It's the cheap charlie solution and possibly what Stillerboy recommended(?)

I wrapped a thick layer of tape on to the base of the element so that the sealing area became quite wide and thick. The seal is sort of located on the outside of the boiler and the nut on the inside. Hand tightened and it hasn't leaked for hours.

Sounds like the bigger the glob, the better the job
I've taken that option before

I have to look into your recommendations for a more permanent hassle free solution in the future. I'm trying to stay away from the tri clamp systems ..... Maybe I will just solder a 2" fitting on the outside.

That's one option
Another would be to make a pair of copper washers that are contoured to fit the round sides
And have a flat surface for the element and SS nut.

[chilimies]

That not good enough, requires it to be tighten very good..


That's not an issue as long as no power it going to it.. otherwise, you require to purchase another element..

Mars

Thanks. I will make some kind of wrench to tighten it.