Openable boilers mandatory?
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Openable boilers mandatory?
I saw multiples design with kegs (and other tanks/boilers) that had no covers or big openings, and I was planing to make one on my future build.
But it is considerably more work to do (cut, weld a flange, buy a PTFE gasket...) so I it is no really necessary for cleaning /scrubbing the inside? I may not mess with this if there is not a big advantage for it...
Your inputs?
Thanks!
Regards
But it is considerably more work to do (cut, weld a flange, buy a PTFE gasket...) so I it is no really necessary for cleaning /scrubbing the inside? I may not mess with this if there is not a big advantage for it...
Your inputs?
Thanks!
Regards
Evil_Dark
Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
No, it is not mandatory. A larger opening can help to charge and clean but I rather take a bottom drain first.
Edit, a larger opening takes more to seal as you stated...
Edit, a larger opening takes more to seal as you stated...
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- Twisted Brick
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
Nope, not required since 2" and 3" risers/columns mate nicely to an unmolested 2" sankey keg. A definite convenience and time-saver though. Going through the expense of adding a 6" (or larger) ferrule and associated hardware offers multiple benefits. Cleaning (especially a scorch), filling, thumper connectivity and stirring during heat up to name a few. I love mine (below). You only have to do it once, and if you decide to do it, add a drain valve and you're golden.
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- contrahead
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
It's not mandatory but in the long run it might be worth your while (or it could also be done later).
I both ferment and distill “on the grain” so to speak. But I also sometimes distill pureed fruits and unstrained solids in a stainless steel pot that is heated by an external burner and not an internal electrical element. Over the years I have seen several instances where an ugly brown patina will build up on the inside of the pot. No amount of rinsing will remove the plaque. This might reduce the still's efficiency a little.
It's useful to be able to reach in there and scrub the inside with SOS pads, but I've also found that adding a few tablespoons of baking soda during a run– will scour the inside of a pot clean as a wistle, without the elbow work.
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
The big ferrule is a very good idea! I might steal itTwisted Brick wrote: ↑Tue Oct 26, 2021 10:22 am Nope, not required since 2" and 3" risers/columns mate nicely to an unmolested 2" sankey keg. A definite convenience and time-saver though. Going through the expense of adding a 6" (or larger) ferrule and associated hardware offers multiple benefits. Cleaning (especially a scorch), filling, thumper connectivity and stirring during heat up to name a few. I love mine (below). You only have to do it once, and if you decide to do it, add a drain valve and you're golden.
I'm thinking that in the long run I may need to scrub the inside.
This particular boiler can't be heated by an external source, so the internal element is my only option. Not sure if this help to not make any "crust" inside... But just for filling purposes, having a larger enterance opening will help.
I do have a 2" ferrule at the bottom, as well as a side opening for the electric element. The actual top opening is a 3". I may add a well for an eventual temperature probe. It's a 40L capacity, not too big.
Regards
Evil_Dark
- bluefish_dist
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
One more to say, not necessary, but so much nicer when you have to clean. My first still was just a keg with a threaded bung on the side for an element. It worked, but filling, draining, and cleaning all took full disassembly. Also had to lug a full keg to drain it through the top. Far better to at a minimum add a bottom drain. Better yet, flip the keg, use the 2” as a drain, then add a 2” on the top for the column and a 6” for cleaning and filling. Heck, I cleaned a 120 gallon still through a 6” opening. Not hard to do. If the still gets real dirty, fill with a double dose of b brite and heat it up. It will be clean when you drain it.
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
If you turn over the keg and mate it to 2" drainage, you will need a ferrule at the (new) top.Twisted Brick wrote: ↑Tue Oct 26, 2021 10:22 am Nope, not required since 2" and 3" risers/columns mate nicely to an unmolested 2" sankey keg. A definite convenience and time-saver though. Going through the expense of adding a 6" (or larger) ferrule and associated hardware offers multiple benefits. Cleaning (especially a scorch), filling, thumper connectivity and stirring during heat up to name a few. I love mine (below). You only have to do it once, and if you decide to do it, add a drain valve and you're golden.
Make it a reasonable size.
Geoff
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
Basically comes down to how valuable is your time vs the labor needed to toil with a kettle that is set up with less than optimal appointments.
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- bluefish_dist
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
Realize that a normal adult male arm doesn’t got very far into a 4” tri clamp fitting, about half way up the forearm. 6” is much better.
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- jonnys_spirit
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
I went with a 16g milk can boiler that has a domed lid with a 3" TC because I couldn't imagine not being able to clean it if I wanted and I'm glad I have it however I typically just rinse and it's fine. I'm considering how I might be able to add a false bottom into it so I can cook certain solids with the electric heater - I have a few ideas and the 8" opening will definitely help. I wouldn't trade it for the same with a fixed 3" TC on top...
Cheers!
-j
Cheers!
-j
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i prefer my mash shaken, not stirred
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i prefer my mash shaken, not stirred
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
Can you develop about this please? cooking solids?jonnys_spirit wrote: ↑Tue Oct 26, 2021 4:48 pm I might be able to add a false bottom into it so I can cook certain solids with the electric heater -
Regards
Evil_Dark
- jonnys_spirit
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
The false bottom idea is two or three "half circle" pieces of copper with a bajillion holes drilled and with feet soldered or screwed/riveted - height TBD but 6-12" or adjustable - then a layer of copper mesh fabric. The half circles will fit sideways through the 8" opening and then stand up on their feet high enough to be well enough above the heating element.
Solids would be any fruit solids/skins for example grape pomace or some other fruit. I don't think this would work for grains but maybe some experimentation is required..
Cheers!
-j
Solids would be any fruit solids/skins for example grape pomace or some other fruit. I don't think this would work for grains but maybe some experimentation is required..
Cheers!
-j
————
i prefer my mash shaken, not stirred
————
i prefer my mash shaken, not stirred
————
Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
Ok got ya. It's basically a strainer that prevents the fruits to go touch the heater element.
Nice idea, gives versatility!
Thanks for the clarification
Regards
Nice idea, gives versatility!
Thanks for the clarification
Regards
Evil_Dark
- jonnys_spirit
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Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
Exactly! the two half circles are 1/2 the diameter of the boiler so when set side by side make the false bottom and copper mesh fabric on top or more drilled half circles makes an easy false bottom.. They may need to be slightly less than 1/2 (16") diameter to fit through the 8" opening but another layer of them plus mesh should protect solids from falling down to the element..
Cheers!
-j
Cheers!
-j
————
i prefer my mash shaken, not stirred
————
i prefer my mash shaken, not stirred
————
Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
I run a 6" flange on my keg boiler and am real happy with it, drain valve in the bottom and removable element means cleanup is a snap.
:)
Re: Openable boilers mandatory?
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