How to solder the water pipes through column

[Scooby]

Hello, I am so close to completing my reflux still but can't figure out how to keep the column air\vapor proof when I run the upper and lower water pipes through the reflux column. I am assuming that the answer will be to solder them, but it doesn't seem like there will be enough surface area to solder the 2 pipes together. Am I supposed to use some kind of fitting? Please help!

[Yummyrum]

Hi Scooby , Its always a good idea to post a pic of what you are trying to join/ solder / so we can give the best advise .

But from what you are saying it sounds like you are about to fit the cooling tubes into a really old design still that is a bad design . If this is the case then perhaps its a blessing that you have stopped . You should look at some better designs that will perform way better . .
if however you chose to continue with that design , then yes you just soft solder the pipes to the column . solder is extremely strong and as there is bugger all pressure mechanically then it will hold up just fine . you don't need a fitting , so long as the pipe is a neat fit , the solder will flash across both surfaces and hold tight .

Is it this design?

Bad still design.jpg (11.16 KiB) Viewed 3415 times

[Scooby]

Thank you so much for your reply. You are correct, that is the design I was going for, can you suggest a better design maybe something that is effective but easy to build?

[still_stirrin]

Thank you so much for your reply. You are correct, that is the design I was going for, can you suggest a better design maybe something that is effective but easy to build?

Here's a look at the easiest reflux design to build...and operate.

Have a look: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41579&p=7104768&hil ... d#p7104768
and: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=68341#p7496349
and: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=66393#p7471473
ss

[Mikey-moo]

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41579

[Danespirit]

Don't use this design.
Of all reflux still designs, this is probably the worst one..!
The guys gave you some good advice and plenty of stuff for reading.
if you choose this design because you fear winding a coil condenser as an RC, take a look at how easy it can be done here: viewtopic.php?f=87&t=52290
Of course, there are other talented guys that also made very good coils, so my way ain't the only one.
Alternatively, a coil like DAD300 made is super simple (provided you can source some stainless gas line).

[Scooby]

I am extremely grateful for all the input so far and was wondering if I can reduce the 2 inch column down to 1/2" and jacket that 1/2 pipe and run water around it? Here is a basic design: What do you think?

[FullySilenced]

Read a lot... build very little or seldom...

Don't get in a rush read, ask, read some more
There are hundreds of build threads here to read and think about...

Happy stillin

FS

[Yummyrum]

Yeah you kinda got the idea but No .

See what you have in effect is a very short 1/2 " Liebig . It won't be long enough to fully condense all the vapour from the 2" column . As you squeeze all that vapour from 2" into a 1/2" you will increase the vapour speed so it will go shooting right past it .
That is why a 1/2" liebig has to be around 24-36" long to condense the output from a still . Yes I know its a reflux condenser but its doing the same job . If you were to make that section a shot gun condenser with 4-5 1/2" pipes in it then that would work .....then you could use your 1/2" to go up and over to the product condenser .

Good to see you looking around at various ideas .

One of the reasons the other guys have mentioned CCVM syle is it is very much suited to the original still you were building .All you have to do is stick a reflux condenser coil down the top and your done .
But if you haven't cut anything yet then keep looking . I'd also recommend a taller packed section than 24" if you can .You will get better purity at a faster rate .

[Scooby]

So...I took everything you said to heart and went back to the drawing board. My husband spent the better part of his day rolling a copper coil for me. He did really good for his first time. We filled it with salt and he is still trying to get the salt out as we speak. We think we get it now.

The top of the column is open to allow us to raise or lower the coil for full reflux or no reflux, plus we have a top for when we want to unpack the column and run it as a pot still. I should mention that the two red lines in the picture are valves so we can regulate where and how much water flow there is. We have a small water pump which will be able to raise the water to the top of the column.

Here is our new plan...

[tonofsteel]

The top of the column is open to allow us to raise or lower the coil for full reflux or no reflux.

Just a tip as I was originally thinking the same as you before someone here corrected me. If the coil is in there will be some reflux. In DADS post it is shown as coil all the way up still being 50% reflux. For no reflux you would need to run as pot still with coil out and capped.

[Yummyrum]

We think we get it now.

The top of the column is open to allow us to raise or lower the coil for full reflux or no reflux, plus we have a top for when we want to unpack the column and run it as a pot still. ...

Good stuff . I think you have got it too

The product and flexibility you Will get from this still will be so much better than your original version .
I remember eight years ago when I had a design ready to build and discovered this site just in time to realise I had been barking up the wrong tree .

Good luck with getting the salt out . If it’s dry , some try tapping it out , some use an air compressor ..... but I’d be weary of that .
If it’s wet you have no choice but to let it all dissolve out . Boiling it may help .

Incidentally , I recently did some tests when it comes to running a packed column as a pot still . viewtopic.php?f=16&t=71451#p7532524.
My conclusion was that there was bugger all difference in between packing and unpacking and kit you simply wrapped a blanket around a packed column it behaved almost exactly like an I packed one . Saving the hassle of removing packing and having to re stuff it .

[Scooby]

Thank you so much for all the tips. I have the perfect movers blanket to cover the rise! I do have a triclamped end plate for the top in case I am not looking for any reflux, I can just pull the cool out and call it BUT my husband also pointed out that I could just shut off the water valve to the reflux condenser and keep the product condenser water lines open.

I am wondering if technically I have both a water management and vapor management still.

[Danespirit]

The design you've chosen is good.
Just a few remarks to it all...:

The equal tee ensures an even vapor split which is ideal for a VM still, but don't go with the 4" of 1/2" pipe from there.
A 90-degree elbow and then a reducer would be the way to go.
From there down into the Liebig. Btw..24" (610 mm) will barely be enough with the intended power input.
Go for around 30" (760 mm) instead. Also, if you have a tri-clamp on the tee, it will allow some movement of the Liebig to change the angle.
For the controller, you could use one like I do..it's a 5,0 KW SCR and dirt cheap on eBay. If I remember correct, not even 8 $ so I bought two of them.
You don't need all the bells and whistles...like amp meter etc. That's something you can add later on.

I do have a triclamped end plate for the top in case I am not looking for any reflux, I can just pull the cool out and call it BUT my husband also pointed out that I could just shut off the water valve to the reflux condenser and keep the product condenser water lines open.
I am wondering if technically I have both a water management and vapor management still.

That won't be an option as all the vapor will escape out of the top without an RC to "catch them".
If you want to use it as a pot still, cap it with an endcap. Btw...just use the tee for this purpose...the column won't be needed.

5000W SCR

[still_stirrin]

I think your final CCVM design will work good for you.

My only suggestion would be to relocate the water control valves to the discharge side of your condensers. You’ll have better cooling control with the pressure constant on the respective condensers. The valves will still regulate the flow(s), but the condensers will see better input pressure.

Also, know that the line running to the reflux condenser will have a greater pressure loss due to the elevation difference and friction of flow than the product condenser line...it’s the physics of the setup. So, a control valve on the discharge side will always give you better control of the respective flows such that adjusting one valve won’t affect the other coolant flow nearly as significantly.

Running with the controls on the input side will cause collateral change on the other branch when one is adjusted. And this will especially be noticable when using a pond pump for circulation because of the flow rate variation as a function of discharge head height (lift).
ss

[Mikey-moo]

Just to point out that you don't need both elements on the controller. Have one that's on/off, start with both full on, then when you're up to temp switch that one off and then modulate the other one.