Stock pot still.. regular lid or bowl

[Seanjohn19]

Hey everyone I'm finishing up my stock pot still. I was wondering what everyone uses. Ive seen designs using the lid that come with the pot and I've also seen people using a stainless steel bowl. Ive got both laying around wanted to know what you're running. Also what are the benefits of using the bowl. My lid fits very snug and a few clamps and some paste and I'll be good but I've got the correct size bowl aswell. What do you all think?

[Tummydoc]

A domed inverted bowl will support more weight than a flat lid. All depends on the size and weight of your column as well as the gauge of the flat lid.

[zed255]

I have both the flat stock pot lid and the inverted bowl. They both work.

Standard lid doesn't add expense as it likely came with the pot, but you will be working around its handle. Also it's relatively flat shape makes it less supportive of any riser and condenser arrangement.

The inverted mixing bowl is an additional purchase and finding an exact fit for you pot can be tough. The domed shape is stronger and gives added volume to accommodate foaming of the boiler charge.

I bought my pots (got 11L and 16L) and bowl from a real kitchen supply store, paid dearly but got really a really nice basis for my small still. I have to hide the damn pots from my wife, easily the nicest ones we have .

[Seanjohn19]

I have both the flat stock pot lid and the inverted bowl. They both work.

Standard lid doesn't add expense as it likely came with the pot, but you will be working around its handle. Also it's relatively flat shape makes it less supportive of any riser and condenser arrangement.

The inverted mixing bowl is an additional purchase and finding an exact fit for you pot can be tough. The domed shape is stronger and gives added volume to accommodate foaming of the boiler charge.

I bought my pots (got 11L and 16L) and bowl from a real kitchen supply store, paid dearly but got really a really nice basis for my small still. I have to hide the damn pots from my wife, easily the nicest ones we have .

My pot is 25l I've got a bigger still I wanted to make something small and easy to move and I was planning on doing 15l runs from it so with the regular lid there's a bit of headroom, column is 3/4 inch 24" straight up then takes a 90 turning into 1/2 then takes another 45 with a 2.5 foot slope to the 1/2 worm. Doesn't seem too heavy I've dry fit it all with it mounted to the lid and everything fits great and the lid is super tight. But before a soldered everything I was going threw some stuff and found a stainless steel bowl and it fits perfect so I was just wondering what everyone else thought I should do.

[Seanjohn19]

I guess it's only another couple bucks for a second fitting and I used a threaded fitting at the base of my column so I could always just unscrew the pot lid and screw on the bowl I could always just do both and see what one I like better. I was thinking maybe one would make better alcohol than the other

[zed255]

You might get a tiny amount of passive reflux with the domed lid / inverted bowl, but I seriously doubt there's be any appreciable difference in product between a flat lid and domed.

[Seanjohn19]

You might get a tiny amount of passive reflux with the domed lid / inverted bowl, but I seriously doubt there's be any appreciable difference in product between a flat lid and domed.

That's kinda what I thought.. I still might make a second cap out of the bowl I don't use it anyways just to see if it does anything but I doubt it aswell. Plus like I said the lid that came with fits very very snug so it's nice, with the bowl I'll need to build a gasket of some sort I'd imagine.

[zed255]

You will want some kind of gasket or flour paste no matter how well you feel the lid fits. I felt my setup was vapour tight without but when I tested it I found it wasn't. Better safe than sorry.

[Tummydoc]

If you're not mounting a reflux column, dont bother with the inverted bowl. In pot mode you will see no difference

[Seanjohn19]

You will want some kind of gasket or flour paste no matter how well you feel the lid fits. I felt my setup was vapour tight without but when I tested it I found it wasn't. Better safe than sorry.

Oh yeah forsure I will try with flour paste first otherwise I will find something different

[still_stirrin]

My stock pot potstill has a flat lid. But I cut a hole big enough for a stainless steel sink basket strainer (from the local big box store) to fit. The tail piece is 1-1/2” ID, so I made a piece that fits 1-1/2” copper pipe (I had to pound a little flange on the end of the pipe) and it threads right onto the basket strainer drain with the strainer’s packing nut. Nice and strong. With a little PTFE tape for seals, it buttons up tightly too.

I wrap a couple of wraps of PTFE tape around the stock pot lip for a lid seal and clamp the lid on with a dozen, or so small binder clips. It seals good and the lid stays firmly in place even with the weight of the stillhead and shotgun product condenser mounted. No leaks.

When making gin (this purpose built ginstill), I stuff a little loose stainless steel scrubby into the riser and put my citrus zest on top of that. Of course, the rest of the botanicals go into the boiler (stock pot) with the alcohol. I heat the boiler on top of my modified hotplate (see my signature for the build thread).

My “build approach” is:
1) develop requirements, ie - desired product, size, portability, materials, power source, cooling source, etc.
2) decompose requirements to develop detailed requirements,
3) design a solution,
4) source components,
5) fabricate, and finally
6) test the system.

But the key is to “fully understand all the requirements” so that you don’t go down many paths during the build. Requirements decomposition will help “flush out” omission of your thoughts and goals before you spend money or waste your time building something that doesn’t work.

OK, I admit it...I am a mechanical systems engineer and that’s just the way I think.
ss

[StillerBoy]

But before a soldered everything I was going threw some stuff and found a stainless steel bowl and it fits perfect so I was just wondering what everyone else thought I should do.

I build all my ss stock pot boilers using a bowl for a few reason.. the main reason is it much stronger than a flat lid, as most of the lid are weak and allow the column to vibrate some.. the other reason is allow for extra room for the vapors..

And I seal the joint with a mat board wrapped with teflon tape, as flour paste is a pain in the ass to deal with..

Mars

[Seanjohn19]

But before a soldered everything I was going threw some stuff and found a stainless steel bowl and it fits perfect so I was just wondering what everyone else thought I should do.

I build all my ss stock pot boilers using a bowl for a few reason.. the main reason is it much stronger than a flat lid, as most of the lid are weak and allow the column to vibrate some.. the other reason is allow for extra room for the vapors..

And I seal the joint with a mat board wrapped with teflon tape, as flour paste is a pain in the ass to deal with..

Mars

DSC016781.jpgDSC010401.jpg

I seen a great idea for a gasket somebody posted a while ago using PTFE tape and thin cardboard I believe and used that aswell as flour paste. Ive got the pot lid already set and ready to go as of tonight. Ive also got a bowl that the perfect size I figure it's one a few bucks for another fitting for the bowl I will make both.

[Up in the Shed]

I as well us the original flat lid. It fits really well.... And I have a large pot. 20 Gallons. I made a gasket made of Bristol board from the craft section wrapped in Teflon tape. Only made it once, and it still is working perfect, other then some stains. I use 24 large binder clamps all around and can set it up ready to run in about 4 minutes. I have never had a leak, ever, using this method. It still amazes me it works so well and doesn't leak.... I still check it each run. The gasket has sort of baked on and is a semi permanent part of the lid now. Only comes off when I clean it

I do have a hook in my ceiling to it off he condenser arm, so there is not much of a pry effect on the lid. It does flex though on the flat lid

[Up in the Shed]

Just to add.... I probably have 300+ hours on the original gasket

[Seanjohn19]

But before a soldered everything I was going threw some stuff and found a stainless steel bowl and it fits perfect so I was just wondering what everyone else thought I should do.

I build all my ss stock pot boilers using a bowl for a few reason.. the main reason is it much stronger than a flat lid, as most of the lid are weak and allow the column to vibrate some.. the other reason is allow for extra room for the vapors..

And I seal the joint with a mat board wrapped with teflon tape, as flour paste is a pain in the ass to deal with..

Mars

DSC016781.jpgDSC010401.jpg

Those seals you made look awesome. I'm going to try and replicate them.

[Seanjohn19]

Just to add.... I probably have 300+ hours on the original gasket

Yea I'm going to try and make a gasket myself using that same method. I did a test run today with a couple gallons of water everything sealed pretty good there was a few leaks around the lid so I used a bunch of flour paste witch worked but I'm still on planning on making a gadget like you guys did I'd rather be safer and have a tighter seal and if I can use less paste and make less of a mess the better.

[Seanjohn19]

My stock pot potstill has a flat lid. But I cut a hole big enough for a stainless steel sink basket strainer (from the local big box store) to fit. The tail piece is 1-1/2” ID, so I made a piece that fits 1-1/2” copper pipe (I had to pound a little flange on the end of the pipe) and it threads right onto the basket strainer drain with the strainer’s packing nut. Nice and strong. With a little PTFE tape for seals, it buttons up tightly too.

I wrap a couple of wraps of PTFE tape around the stock pot lip for a lid seal and clamp the lid on with a dozen, or so small binder clips. It seals good and the lid stays firmly in place even with the weight of the stillhead and shotgun product condenser mounted. No leaks.

When making gin (this purpose built ginstill), I stuff a little loose stainless steel scrubby into the riser and put my citrus zest on top of that. Of course, the rest of the botanicals go into the boiler (stock pot) with the alcohol. I heat the boiler on top of my modified hotplate (see my signature for the build thread).

My “build approach” is:
1) develop requirements, ie - desired product, size, portability, materials, power source, cooling source, etc.
2) decompose requirements to develop detailed requirements,
3) design a solution,
4) source components,
5) fabricate, and finally
6) test the system.

But the key is to “fully understand all the requirements” so that you don’t go down many paths during the build. Requirements decomposition will help “flush out” omission of your thoughts and goals before you spend money or waste your time building something that doesn’t work.

OK, I admit it...I am a mechanical systems engineer and that’s just the way I think.
ss

Hey ya'll. I'm new here. But I've been brewing beer, mead, and wine for many years. I've got more than a few ribbons & trophies for the efforts. But as a newly retired engineer (BSME), I thought I'd attempt another corollary hobby .....

Does that Carry threw this was one of your first posts

[Seanjohn19]

My stock pot potstill has a flat lid. But I cut a hole big enough for a stainless steel sink basket strainer (from the local big box store) to fit. The tail piece is 1-1/2” ID, so I made a piece that fits 1-1/2” copper pipe (I had to pound a little flange on the end of the pipe) and it threads right onto the basket strainer drain with the strainer’s packing nut. Nice and strong. With a little PTFE tape for seals, it buttons up tightly too.

I wrap a couple of wraps of PTFE tape around the stock pot lip for a lid seal and clamp the lid on with a dozen, or so small binder clips. It seals good and the lid stays firmly in place even with the weight of the stillhead and shotgun product condenser mounted. No leaks.

When making gin (this purpose built ginstill), I stuff a little loose stainless steel scrubby into the riser and put my citrus zest on top of that. Of course, the rest of the botanicals go into the boiler (stock pot) with the alcohol. I heat the boiler on top of my modified hotplate (see my signature for the build thread).

My “build approach” is:
1) develop requirements, ie - desired product, size, portability, materials, power source, cooling source, etc.
2) decompose requirements to develop detailed requirements,
3) design a solution,
4) source components,
5) fabricate, and finally
6) test the system.

But the key is to “fully understand all the requirements” so that you don’t go down many paths during the build. Requirements decomposition will help “flush out” omission of your thoughts and goals before you spend money or waste your time building something that doesn’t work.

OK, I admit it...I am a mechanical systems engineer and that’s just the way I think.
ss

Hey ya'll. I'm new here. But I've been brewing beer, mead, and wine for many years. I've got more than a few ribbons & trophies for the efforts. But as a newly retired engineer (BSME), I thought I'd attempt another corollary hobby .....

Does that Carry threw this was one of your first posts
Mechanical engineering to this? Looks like you were as green as all of us Mr mechanical engineer