Adapting still boiler for steaming mash

[MtRainier]

I’d like to cook up some corn and rye indoors. I have a 16g mile hi boiler with a 5500w electric element in it and a 5lb safety valve installed. I’d cook it in a 55g drum.

It seems simple to get some high temp steam hose from McMaster Carr and attach a triclamp to barb adapter to it for the boiler connection and make a copper pipe stem with a vacuum breaker and hose barb for the barrel end and get to steaming. The hose would let me store it easier when not in use than using hard plumbing.

Looking at this hose, by the way: https://www.mcmaster.com/#5301k12/=1dw8e9p" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

It seems too simple to me. Would that work?

[acfixer69]

I've thought the same thing. Then I thought about drinking water from the garden hose on a summer afternoon and its taste. I've got a lot of steam rated hose but not the one from McM. I think Shadylane tried it for a test maybe can let us know.

[MtRainier]

Right. Hot rubber flavor would be a risk for sure.

[MtRainier]

So I’m looking in to steam cooking some more. I bought a 2” Tri-Clamp to NPT adapter for the top of my boiler and was considering using CSST flexible gas line to get steam over to a copper pipe which would go down to a manifold at the bottom of my 55 gallon drum for cooking.

The boiler has a 5lb safety valve on it. It would need to push through 3 feet of water in the barrel which would be around 1.5 lbs of pressure, and the CSST is only rated for 1/2 lb so it doesn’t sound like the right solution. Maybe back to the rubber steam hose.

Has anyone used rubber steam hose for this purpose or are most hard piped? Or maybe CSST would be safe enough even if it is rated for 1/2 lb of natural gas pressure?

[Yummyrum]

MtRainier , thanks for providing the PSI rating for the CCST .... yeah its obviously not a good choice
Many , myself included just use solid tube as a feeder but a few use the flexible steam hose.


https://www.hosecraftusa.com/application/Steam_Hoses" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
These guys will also attach a variety of ends and make to length .
This link was suggested by Captainshooch

You should look at Shadylanes manometer as a visial guide to pressure and as a safety release .

[shadylane]

I've thought the same thing. Then I thought about drinking water from the garden hose on a summer afternoon and its taste. I've got a lot of steam rated hose but not the one from McM. I think Shadylane tried it for a test maybe can let us know.

Don't know about the McMaster hose, but the hose I used tasted like rubber
Something like this worked for me
https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-Electr ... /999927040" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[LWTCS]

Why not hard pipe?
Got a diagram of your proposed system?

[MtRainier]

Why not hard pipe?
Got a diagram of your proposed system?

Mostly because it won't be set up all the time, so flexible pipe is easier to take down to store. Also would be easier to line it all up when doing a cook than hard pipe, but maybe I'm overthinking it.

I'll draw up a diagram of what I'm planning.

Shadylane, thanks for posting that link. It looks like that could work, and since it's designed for wall pressure it would definitely be able to handle the pressure. My 5lb relief valve will pop way before that would. I also plan to put in a U of tubing as an extra safety measure.

[shadylane]

maybe I'm overthinking it

Glad you said that
On a side note.
I used a piece of CSST flexible gas line on a air compressor for a couple years
Vibration finally got the best of the CCST

[shadylane]

The boiler has a 5lb safety valve on it. It would need to push through 3 feet of water in the barrel which would be around 1.5 lbs of pressure

In addition to the 5lb safety valve, I'd recommend making a 6ft tall manometer out of clear plastic 1/2 inch hose.

Don't worry about the manometer hose being plastic. The only time it's exposed to vapor is when excess pressure has blown the water out of it

[HDNB]

The boiler has a 5lb safety valve on it. It would need to push through 3 feet of water in the barrel which would be around 1.5 lbs of pressure

In addition to the 5lb safety valve, I'd recommend making a 6ft tall manometer out of clear plastic 1/2 inch hose.

Don't worry about the manometer hose being plastic. The only time it's exposed to vapor is when excess pressure has blown the water out of it

can you forecast weather with that thing? (when not in use )

i'd hard pipe it with a union on the barrel side and tri clamp on the boiler. easy knock down. the SS water heater connection kit looks like a cheap easy flex connection if you need it.

[The Baker]

The boiler has a 5lb safety valve on it. It would need to push through 3 feet of water in the barrel which would be around 1.5 lbs of pressure

In addition to the 5lb safety valve, I'd recommend making a 6ft tall manometer out of clear plastic 1/2 inch hose.

Don't worry about the manometer hose being plastic. The only time it's exposed to vapor is when excess pressure has blown the water out of it

Of course it protects against vacuum also.

Geoff

[MtRainier]

Of course it protects against vacuum also.

Geoff

True. I was going to have a valve to open when I shut off the boiler so I don’t suck mash up into the wand, but the manometer would work too.

[MtRainier]

i'd hard pipe it with a union on the barrel side and tri clamp on the boiler. easy knock down. the SS water heater connection kit looks like a cheap easy flex connection if you need it.

Didn’t even think of a union. Thanks. That will help with the alignment issues and maybe I won’t need flex. From plumbing aquariums I anticipated not being able to get the soldered fittings orthogonal to each other, but strategically placed unions fixes that to some extent. I often still end up wanting some spaflex in line, though.

[Soft batch]

I went the hard pipe to a union. A 2" tri-clamp T at the top of the boiler - one side with PRV + vacuum valve, the other transitioning down to a 3/4" union that connects to the steam hoop. I can disconnect the steam hoop, flip the T and use the same pipe to connect the union into my condenser to use it as a pot still. Between the tri-clamp T and the union connection, it breaks down into small pieces.

[LWTCS]

Steam generator?

[LWTCS]

Just thinking out loud is all

[LWTCS]

[LWTCS]

[LWTCS]

Prolly should put a pressure gauge upstream before the control valve.

[MtRainier]

That's really nice looking. I was just going to put some pipe down the side connected to a copper Tee at the bottom connected to a round of copper with slots cut in it. Then I'd stir it with a canoe paddle.

[LWTCS]

That's really nice looking. I was just going to put some pipe down the side connected to a copper Tee at the bottom connected to a round of copper with slots cut in it. Then I'd stir it with a canoe paddle.

Sure.
Bet you could fab an eductor/injection head and have a better tool,,,,if you wanted.
Just thinking out loud is all.

[shadylane]

I tried making an injector. But 3 pounds of pressure wasn't enough to drive it

[shadylane]

Of course it protects against vacuum also.
Geoff

A 6' tall mano will protect against a 3ish psi vacuum.
But it won't stop the pot from sucking part of the mash out of the thumper.
Trust me, I'm sure of it

[The Baker]

Of course it protects against vacuum also.
Geoff

A 6' tall mano will protect against a 3ish psi vacuum.
But it won't stop the pot from sucking part of the mash out of the thumper.
Trust me, I'm sure of it

Thanks, didn't realize that.

Geoff

P. S. This is way out, but;
Put a little slobber box between the still and the thumper??? G.

[MtRainier]

I’m collecting parts to do this but would also like to use it to steam strip an all grain charge in my boiler.

My boiler has a Tri-clamp fitting for the immersed heating element. I am thinking about getting one of these to connect to the fitting and putting a loop of copper inside the boiler.

https://www.brewershardware.com/Sanitar ... d-outside/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Then I can use my smaller gin boiler as a steam generator for cooking mash and doing the on-grain strip. Just have to make sure it’s elevated so I don’t siphon the grain into it.

[shadylane]

That ought to work
But one disadvantage I see, is the steam injector can't be cleaned mid run.

[Tōtōchtin]

HD Version Injector head.png

An old thread for sure, was curious if anyone found an eductor that really works at our low pressure.
Tōtō

[Bolverk]

An old thread for sure, was curious if anyone found an eductor that really works at our low pressure.
Tōtō

I haven't tried it but this is the one I was planning on getting when I was looking at steam

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274278236092?m ... media=COPY

[Tōtōchtin]

An old thread for sure, was curious if anyone found an eductor that really works at our low pressure.
Tōtō

I haven't tried it but this is the one I was planning on getting when I was looking at steam

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274278236092?m ... media=COPY

I sent a message to see what it takes to drive this, I assume since you were looking into steam you weren't looking at this to mix your wort with a pump.
This is from their description "designed to convert high input fluid velocity into low pressure recirculation" which does not sound like 2 psi will power this nozzle.
Hope your rum is aging well,
Tōtō