New steam rig and manometer test

Steam powered cooking and distillation devices.

Moderator: Site Moderator

stillness
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 82
Joined: Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:23 pm
Location: Oregon

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by stillness »

I've not gotten to actually injecting steam, but I'm hoping to use the steam to get some agitation. One opening (a nozzle), pointed sideways along the side wall to send the mash in a circle, spreading the heat. Idk. I remember reading something, never done it. Manometer for the win, tho, regardless.
User avatar
LWTCS
Site Mod
Posts: 12833
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 6:04 pm
Location: North Palm Beach

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by LWTCS »

stillness wrote: Mon Mar 15, 2021 12:47 pm I've not gotten to actually injecting steam, but I'm hoping to use the steam to get some agitation. One opening (a nozzle), pointed sideways along the side wall to send the mash in a circle, spreading the heat. Idk. I remember reading something, never done it. Manometer for the win, tho, regardless.
Yes.
Kept low and on a tangential orientation on the vessel to ensure that all of the steam bubbles have collapsed in the liquid while also promoting a whirlpool movement.

Google eductor head and get some mixing action involved too.
Trample the injured and hurdle the dead.
User avatar
BlueSasquatch
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 407
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:00 am
Location: Midwest

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Great write up TD! I love the line feeding the thumper, Wish I stumbled on this before I made mine, I had a 2nd 2" port welded to my thumper keg, with a 2" SS pipe ran down to the bottom, with a 45 cut-back, which allows me to feed the thumper with all 2" and come out of the thumper with 2" as well.

The plan wasn't to steam-still a MASH in the thumper, but since planning, building and reading more, that's just what my intent is with the new keg-set up. Yet I don't have anything in place yet, for safety/pressure, have seen a couple rigs, just haven't decided what route to take.

Pressure relief valves, manometers, leaning towards this relief another member has made: https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... 92&t=82110
"In the silence of the study one can discuss theories, but only in practice one becomes an artist" - Meunier
User avatar
Twisted Brick
Master of Distillation
Posts: 3760
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 4:54 pm
Location: Craigh Na Dun

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by Twisted Brick »

Take your time on your pressure-relief solution. I spent more than a year researching and reaching out to members for their thoughts before spending another few months sitting on the fence. Ultimately, my choice involved me getting to build something, plus with a manometer you can see/monitor operating pressures in real time.

You're pretty (ok, very) thorough on your designs, so my advice is to flow chart 'normal' operation, then operation with a heavy thump charge, and finally a pressure overflow situation. I considered a stainless steel ball in a cup (inside a 2" sightglass) but the problems I had with it are (1) it is not measurably variable (2) a pressure release event spews hot vapors near/in the direction of the distiller. There are downsides to every solution, make sure you identify them before you pull the trigger. Trusting your life/limbs/property to a Chinesium PRV made in a country with questionable quality standards and absolutely no accountability for shortcuts/errors was a no-go for me.
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”

- W.C. Fields

My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
User avatar
BlueSasquatch
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 407
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:00 am
Location: Midwest

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Twisted, let me know if you'd rather my musing be in a different thread.

Doing more research on manometers, Some interesting builds out there, with the hobby CNC that I have, thought about cutting into a nice slab of wood, a track for some tubing to sit nestled into, with marks and readings cut into the wood at exact levels, could make a quick/nicer reading tool, but I don't understand everything enough just yet to run with it. Polycarbonate tubing, I believe is not quite acceptable? Ideally it doesn't come into contact with our wash. borosilicate glass would be the best choice, would need fittings on the ends, as you have done.

But then I came across this on Amazon, you see them all the time on this forum, but I had no idea they were this affordable. Image
1.5" for $23 right now. With it being much wider than other manometers, level changes in the liquid would be lower, so harder to scale a reading off of, but allows you to make a stubbier unit?
"In the silence of the study one can discuss theories, but only in practice one becomes an artist" - Meunier
stillness
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 82
Joined: Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:23 pm
Location: Oregon

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by stillness »

Ya, I dig this write up too.
Looking forward to what you end up with, blue.
Agreed that borosilicate glass is the best (breaking hazard aside). Wish I had the glass, but am going with plastic. I figure that nothing ever comes into contact with the manometer, except in the rare emergency. So, a plastic is acceptable, given it can handle some heat. That's my thinking, but I'm curious what people have to say about it.

The sight glass option is cool, but the height variation isn't going to be shorter. The water displacement in a manometer is independent of diameter.
User avatar
BlueSasquatch
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 407
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:00 am
Location: Midwest

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by BlueSasquatch »

stillness wrote: Tue Jun 22, 2021 10:21 am Ya, I dig this write up too.
Looking forward to what you end up with, blue.
Agreed that borosilicate glass is the best (breaking hazard aside). Wish I had the glass, but am going with plastic. I figure that nothing ever comes into contact with the manometer, except in the rare emergency. So, a plastic is acceptable, given it can handle some heat. That's my thinking, but I'm curious what people have to say about it.

The sight glass option is cool, but the height variation isn't going to be shorter. The water displacement in a manometer is independent of diameter.
Interesting, I had thought the larger the volume of water, the more pressure to displace it? Add a cup of water in a pool, you'll not notice a difference, but a cup of water added to another cup, and you'll soon have a mess.

Well that aside, I haven't seen yet where people say the water level rises more than a couple inches? So possibly still viable, but I suppose at $25 you can also just buy a length of glass and some fittings for around the same cost/cheaper. I was surprised to see Borosilicate glass, as cheap as it is.

Hmm, one could forgo the glass and plastic all together? Make a larger-scale version of a Hydrometer for lack of a better example, but something that floats, as the water level rises, your float will move up, moves the vision effect of the "water level" to someplace above the copper tube, where you can easily see it? But I suppose, that wouldn't have the safety factor of discharging towards the ground.
"In the silence of the study one can discuss theories, but only in practice one becomes an artist" - Meunier
User avatar
Twisted Brick
Master of Distillation
Posts: 3760
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 4:54 pm
Location: Craigh Na Dun

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by Twisted Brick »

BS, no worries on any questions. Its easier for members researching this topic to find it all in one place, I think.

Sure, the polycarbonate will work just fine. It will, however, grow opaque over time. I just wanted something more permanent. The boro tubes are expensive if you go through a lab supply. They're dirt cheap if you hunt long enough for 'em. I think these are the size I ordered. FYI - I think you want a taller tube than a sightglass so you get a better (longer) pressure gradient to gauge your boiler pressure, IMO.

Lampwork Supply


If you're going with a manometer like Yummy's, you don't have to get fancy with ferrules like I did, just 3/4" fittings for a 59" tube. Oh, and BTW, the walls on these tubes are so thick you can rap 'em on a dining table pretty hard and they just bounce off. I wouldn't try hitting a stone countertop as hard though.
.
IMG_4267.jpg
.
IMG_4269.jpg
As far as water displacement in a manometer goes, I see that Shady's manometer is scaled much smaller (diameter) yet works fine. Same with the u-tube manometers for sale on line.
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”

- W.C. Fields

My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
User avatar
BlueSasquatch
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 407
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:00 am
Location: Midwest

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Thanks for the added info TD, I think I had a boroscilitae cylinder for hydrometer readings, that shattered quite quick when it hit my concrete shop floor.

Interesting that you submerged the end of your manometer in a container of liquid, doesn't this make it closed and not open to the atmosphere? Wouldn't it need to over-come water pressure from this container, to read correctly? Or is it all minimal enough that it doesn't matter?
"In the silence of the study one can discuss theories, but only in practice one becomes an artist" - Meunier
User avatar
Twisted Brick
Master of Distillation
Posts: 3760
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 4:54 pm
Location: Craigh Na Dun

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by Twisted Brick »

Look up water column. The pressure of 1 inch of water in a water column is 0.036 psi or thereabouts. The deeper the water the more pressure a simple PRV tube would encounter. It's still an open system.
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”

- W.C. Fields

My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
bluc
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 437
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2015 12:32 am

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by bluc »

To manage steam vent on manometer couldn't the last down turn be a liebig?? Water drops = over pressure..
fzbwfk9r
Bootlegger
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat May 30, 2020 4:51 pm
Location: Smack Dab in the Middle of God's country. Saskatchewan!

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by fzbwfk9r »

LWTCS wrote: Sat Mar 13, 2021 10:48 am Does not at all operate in the same way .
Think about it for,,,,,,,,at least one minute.
Oh... that old double standard

I "Have" thought about it.... quite a bit actually

But I don't usually default to the lowest common denominator of using a paper bag for a thumper or something else equally weak

From all the discussion, I see that anyone who uses a soldered copper pot for anything building up pressure, is just playing with fire!

but I look forward to you posting a warning on every post that talks about loading a thumper with dregs/dirty wash.
As you have no idea what equipment others use, I think a manometer and a warning on pressure is warranted in EVERY situation!

Perhaps it could be posted on the main site (which, incidentally, has a lot of links unavailable to me)

I think I'll be using steam sooner than later, and all this discussion has definitely caused to me adapt a manometer in the design!
User avatar
Dancing4dan
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 904
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:18 pm
Location: Alberta

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by Dancing4dan »

Steam distillation seems to cause a lot of concern. There is always a little confusion on the difference between a steam rig and a pot still with a thumper. I’m not convinced there is a difference. Except my steam rig has both a PRV and a manometer that will both dump pressure …. If it ever occurs. Manometer prevents a vacuum from occurring and collapsing the pot as well.

My steam rig operates the same on grain or off. There has been no difference in pressure on the manometer or the PRV. Preventing a grain plug up issue is pretty simple. I used a couple of mash pot drain screens on a copper Tee and pre heat the thump with propane whilst stirring prior to steam assembly.

I use polycarbonate for the manometer. Stays cold. Works fine. I put zip ties on it to indicate cold pre run level the other is slid up to indicate manometer fluid level when the product condenser starts to produce. The difference is about three inches. Easy to see any rise in pressure after that.

20 gallon pot is used for mash, ferment and thumper in my steam rig. Ferment on grain. Steam on grain in the summer months. BIAB during the winter and pull grain prior to steam. The BIAB just makes it easier to clean when it’s -30C outside.

FYI. The only time the pot has had pressure and lifted off the lid was during fermentation due to a plugged airlock!
IMG_1713.jpeg
"What harms us is to persist in self deceit and ignorance"
Marcus Aurelius
I’m not an alcoholic! I’m a drunk. Alcoholics go to meetings!
User avatar
RC Al
Swill Maker
Posts: 434
Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2018 12:40 am
Location: Sunny Queensland Oz

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by RC Al »

Having done similar, I can say I was both concerned and happy when my yummy style 2m tall prv started to work.. grain blocked outlet, long horzontal pipes are bad mkay?

That said, trying to steam thick grains more than 18" deep, the 1.2m one didnt cut it...
User avatar
BlueSasquatch
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 407
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:00 am
Location: Midwest

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Manometers are being used both as a visual indicator of pressure and a safety mechanism. Could you just make it out of 100% copper, forgo any plastic/glass/etc and just not have a visual measurement? From a safety standpoint, it would still operate as needed.
"In the silence of the study one can discuss theories, but only in practice one becomes an artist" - Meunier
User avatar
Dancing4dan
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 904
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:18 pm
Location: Alberta

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by Dancing4dan »

BlueSasquatch wrote: Thu Jan 13, 2022 11:01 am Manometers are being used both as a visual indicator of pressure and a safety mechanism. Could you just make it out of 100% copper, forgo any plastic/glass/etc and just not have a visual measurement? From a safety standpoint, it would still operate as needed.
You could. Nice to see an issue before it gets out of hand.

My manometer gets filled each time with clean tap water. Don’t see any reason it would go opaque. It isn’t in contact with steam or alcohol vapour. Does not even get warm during a stripping run on 20 gallons.
"What harms us is to persist in self deceit and ignorance"
Marcus Aurelius
I’m not an alcoholic! I’m a drunk. Alcoholics go to meetings!
User avatar
BlueSasquatch
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 407
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:00 am
Location: Midwest

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Dancing4dan wrote: Thu Jan 13, 2022 4:22 pm You could. Nice to see an issue before it gets out of hand.

My manometer gets filled each time with clean tap water. Don’t see any reason it would go opaque. It isn’t in contact with steam or alcohol vapour. Does not even get warm during a stripping run on 20 gallons.
True, it's hard to turn down more data, but cheaper, stronger and just as "effective" to keep it all copper, makes it mighty tempting. The change in water level doesn't sound like it is ever greater than say 16" so if one could pinpoint a better height to start/stop the glass, you could get away with a more narrow "window"

I'm just hung up on the manometer for some reason, I love your 'relief valve' with the stainless steel ball and keg spring, going to do the same on mine, Also I think Twisted Brick has a nice manual valve for vacuum relief, that I'm starting to consider adding in somewhere, that or a homemade version of a vacuum relief valve, they make nice sanitary connection stainless steel ones, but they run 150-200
"In the silence of the study one can discuss theories, but only in practice one becomes an artist" - Meunier
User avatar
Dancing4dan
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 904
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:18 pm
Location: Alberta

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by Dancing4dan »

My manometer never rises more than 3-4 inches. (That sounds bad! :oops:) I mean the water level in the manometer never rises more than 3-4 inches during a stripping run. Vents straight up. Water in manometer does not get hot. Has been shortened since that photo was taken. Not a very good picture
16644F68-6723-4BD1-93D5-D71E0EE1987B.jpeg
"What harms us is to persist in self deceit and ignorance"
Marcus Aurelius
I’m not an alcoholic! I’m a drunk. Alcoholics go to meetings!
User avatar
Stonecutter
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 1902
Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2021 2:40 pm
Location: Somewhere within the Milkyway

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by Stonecutter »

Having a hard time articulating my question but here she goes.
Travel of steam is opposite between Dancing4Dan and Twisted setup. In Dan’s setup the steam travels naturally up. Twisted’s it travels down. It may not matter at all as the steam eventually has to travel down into thump but is there an ideal incline for the steam to travel between the water vessel and the thump? Forgive my ignorance. Super interested in steam injection stripping now. Feeling the effects of an apprentice. The more ya learn the less ya know kind of thing.
Freedom had been hunted round the globe; reason was considered as rebellion; and the slavery of fear had made men afraid to think. But such is the irresistible nature of truth, that all it asks, and all it wants, is the liberty of appearing.
-Thomas Paine
User avatar
Dancing4dan
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 904
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:18 pm
Location: Alberta

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by Dancing4dan »

Stonecutter wrote: Sun Jan 16, 2022 6:31 am Having a hard time articulating my question but here she goes.
Travel of steam is opposite between Dancing4Dan and Twisted setup. In Dan’s setup the steam travels naturally up. Twisted’s it travels down. It may not matter at all as the steam eventually has to travel down into thump but is there an ideal incline for the steam to travel between the water vessel and the thump? Forgive my ignorance. Super interested in steam injection stripping now. Feeling the effects of an apprentice. The more ya learn the less ya know kind of thing.
I run my Lyne arm up hill by placing the thumper on my banjo propane burner. Doing so allows any steam that condenses into water between the boiler and the thumper to run back into the boiler. I found this conserved a lot of water in the boiler and prevented the thumper from getting overfilled with condensed water.

I actually ran it level once without preheating with propane and the thumper liquid level went up significantly because of condensed water adding to the thump volume. In addition the boiler liquid level ran lower than the element and fried my element. :oops: Was a bit of a shit show! Lessons were learned!

Sooooo, I run the Lyne uphill and no problems of either kind since. My boiler is smaller than my thumper. NOT the typical way of building these things. However I use propane to preheat the thumper and with a Lyne arm that runs up hill there is more than enough water in my keg boiler to strip a 20 gallon thumper.

I fill and fire the boiler. Fill and fire low to medium propane under the thumper. Assemble the steam head on the boiler. Assemble and attach the steam injection head to the thump lid so it is ready to go on. During this time I stir the open thump to prevent scorch. By this time the boiler is getting hot but not boiling yet. When the thump is getting warm to very warm, Chop the propane and put the thump lid and steam injection head on the thump. Then when everything is connected wait a short while for the steam to start. Assemble the PRV, fill the manometer make sure everything is tight and start checking for steam leaks. Once I know I have steam and no leaks I insulate everything except the manometer and product condenser. Especially the boiler, boiler riser and Lyne arm!

Once the thump is "thumping" I add propane to the thump again until I can smell fores. The steam injection will stir the thump and prevent scorching as long as you don't go crazy with the propane. It is just there to help. Go to hard and it will puke and / or scorch the thump. Once I smell fores I shut off propane because the product condenser will start to produce in just moments. No propane during production after this point.

I use a long Lyne arm to allow me room to maneuver / move around my equipment with out bumping or tripping on shit. The long Liebig condenser I use does the same. Product is well away from the boiler and thump.

There is more to it than that, but that gives a quick overview.
"What harms us is to persist in self deceit and ignorance"
Marcus Aurelius
I’m not an alcoholic! I’m a drunk. Alcoholics go to meetings!
The Baker
Master of Distillation
Posts: 4656
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 4:48 am
Location: Northern Victoria, Australia

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by The Baker »

Stonecutter wrote: Sun Jan 16, 2022 6:31 am Having a hard time articulating my question but here she goes.
Travel of steam is opposite between Dancing4Dan and Twisted setup. In Dan’s setup the steam travels naturally up. Twisted’s it travels down. It may not matter at all as the steam eventually has to travel down into thump but is there an ideal incline for the steam to travel between the water vessel and the thump? Forgive my ignorance. Super interested in steam injection stripping now. Feeling the effects of an apprentice. The more ya learn the less ya know kind of thing.
I sort of thought that steam acts like a gas.
Not particularly travelling up or down, but it expands to fill the available space...

Geoff
The Baker
User avatar
Twisted Brick
Master of Distillation
Posts: 3760
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 4:54 pm
Location: Craigh Na Dun

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by Twisted Brick »

Stonecutter wrote: Sun Jan 16, 2022 6:31 am Having a hard time articulating my question but here she goes.
Travel of steam is opposite between Dancing4Dan and Twisted setup. In Dan’s setup the steam travels naturally up. Twisted’s it travels down. It may not matter at all as the steam eventually has to travel down into thump but is there an ideal incline for the steam to travel between the water vessel and the thump? Forgive my ignorance. Super interested in steam injection stripping now. Feeling the effects of an apprentice. The more ya learn the less ya know kind of thing.
Well, here's how I approached it.

I know from running my shotgun that ethanol vapor begins to condense as soon as it encounters a surface cooler than itself. My shotgun only gets hot up to the first baffle (2-3" in). So logically, vapor from the boiler would condense as soon as it reaches the 'lyne arm' (thumper transfer tube) and continue to do so until the tube reached the vapor's temp. As long as the transfer tube (at any angle) is properly insulated, condensation would be minimized, maximizing efficiency of the thumper. Angling it up sounds like it would certainly increase the vapor-to-condensate ratio.

I'm thinking the same properties would apply to the down tube inside the thumper. As soon as incoming vapor hits the downtube (surrounded by cooler wash) it too would condense, releasing its energy and pumping in hot ethanol in liquid state. How much time would elapse until the downtube (and surrounding wash) got hot enough to maintain vapor state is anyone's guess. Naturally, the higher starting temp of the thumper contents (like D4D describes) the shorter this 'heat up' period. I had some extra copper and fittings on hand so I built into my thump downtube a liebig-like insulating 'shell' that presumably would allow the internal downtube to avoid the cooler wash and start introducing vapor sooner.

Don't know how effective it really is, but I figured it couldn't hurt.
.
IMG_7315.jpg
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”

- W.C. Fields

My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
User avatar
shadylane
Master of Distillation
Posts: 10344
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:54 pm
Location: Hiding In the Boiler room of the Insane asylum

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by shadylane »

BlueSasquatch wrote: Thu Jan 13, 2022 11:01 am Manometers are being used both as a visual indicator of pressure and a safety mechanism. Could you just make it out of 100% copper, forgo any plastic/glass/etc and just not have a visual measurement? From a safety standpoint, it would still operate as needed.

Here's my thoughts.
A copper loop tall enough would work fine, even a water trap made out of 2 different sizes of pvc tubing.
If the manometer isn't in contact with boiling mash or the alcohol vapor, it can also be made out of clear plastic tubing.
Just make sure the tubing won't kink if the SHTF and hot steam needs to blow through it. :wink:
User avatar
BlueSasquatch
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 407
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:00 am
Location: Midwest

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Twisted, It had to be the 10th time I studied your photos before I noticed your cat watching you through the blinds.
shadylane wrote: Sun Jan 16, 2022 11:17 pm Here's my thoughts.
A copper loop tall enough would work fine, even a water trap made out of 2 different sizes of pvc tubing.
If the manometer isn't in contact with boiling mash or the alcohol vapor, it can also be made out of clear plastic tubing.
Just make sure the tubing won't kink if the SHTF and hot steam needs to blow through it. :wink:
Small diameter copper is cheap enough, I don't mind a copper manotube, I suppose I'm just not crazy about them in general, so streamlining one is appealing to me. Having to go below your keg makes it trickier for how to support your keg, can't just sit on the ground. I'll also need to put in a Tee somewhere for this to branch off of. How small of a diameter can one go, and how far below/above the liquid level, does it have to be?
"In the silence of the study one can discuss theories, but only in practice one becomes an artist" - Meunier
User avatar
Twisted Brick
Master of Distillation
Posts: 3760
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 4:54 pm
Location: Craigh Na Dun

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by Twisted Brick »

I would think you could go 1/2" out to the manometer with no problem. I went with 3/4" because Yummy did. Since incoming steam bubbles/heat rise, your thumper downtube wants to go down into the wash as far as you get it.

Plenty of ways to elevate your keg.
.
2013-07-21-12.42.09.jpg
.
Keg Legs.JPG
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”

- W.C. Fields

My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
User avatar
BlueSasquatch
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 407
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:00 am
Location: Midwest

Re: New steam rig and manometer test

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Oh I was going to make a large distilling table on wheels, so the height isn't the end of the world, I was shooting for a table with mostly uniform height, so the kegs could go anywhere on it, which can still be done by adding little legs to the boiler keg, but the thumper keg would then need it too, with the piping already made up.
"In the silence of the study one can discuss theories, but only in practice one becomes an artist" - Meunier
Post Reply