Steam build

Steam powered cooking and distillation devices.

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Dancing4dan
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Steam build

Post by Dancing4dan »

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Finally getting a start on my steam build. Here is a pic of my boiler column and pressure relief valve.

A little copper plating on the 304 stainless and it all matches up! All the joints are filed and sanded.

Waiting for USPS to deliver a few more parts.
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Re: Steam build

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Love your copper plating . So cool :clap:
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Re: Steam build

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The pressure relief valve needs some explaining. It is as yet untested.

It consists of a ball and seat. The seat is a piece of 3/4 coupling and the ball is a 1” bearing. The coupling has been lapped so the ball seals on the end of the coupling. The spring from a keg has a washer liver soldered to one end. There is a space between the washer and the ball as demonstrated by a copper ring in the photos. The spring and washer are only for containing the ball and just sit over the ball. It is not soldered to the column.

The space between the washer and the ball can be stacked with dollar coins to add weight to the ball so it can be calibrated to the pressure required.
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Re: Steam build

Post by Demy »

Hi, I have modified a valve in a similar way (a valve for compressed air) for my steam jacket, if I can I give you a little suggestion: if you can, insert the spring (or a similar one) over the ball, with a screw system / unscrew you can adjust the compression (therefore the force of opposition to the pressure) of the spring. The spring must not be too "hard" otherwise it will not work.
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Re: Steam build

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If I can’t get enough pressure hold with weights I will rig that up! Good idea.
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Re: Steam build

Post by Dancing4dan »

Some progress.
IMG_3395-3.jpeg
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Re: Steam build

Post by Demy »

Excuse me, maybe I am talking nonsense but in the keg where the wash is located the steam entry must not be at the bottom? Maybe I misunderstood your design ...Maybe there is a pipe running down through the column?
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Re: Steam build

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Demy wrote: Sat Feb 13, 2021 5:41 am Excuse me, maybe I am talking nonsense but in the keg where the wash is located the steam entry must not be at the bottom? Maybe I misunderstood your design ...Maybe there is a pipe running down through the column?
Yes, should be tube in a tube that extends below the liquid level.
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Re: Steam build

Post by Dancing4dan »

Have a look at Michigacornhusker’s build thread. He deserves credit for the steam entry point.

https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... 92&t=60248

Here is a picture of my steam pipe inside primary column at the point it connects using a 90 degree elbow an a touch of finesse.
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Re: Steam build

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Yeah it's a really tidy solution.
That's a nice outfit.
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Re: Steam build

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LWTCS wrote: Sat Feb 13, 2021 7:45 pm Yeah it's a really tidy solution.
That's a nice outfit.
Thanks!
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Re: Steam build

Post by shadylane »

Dancing4dan wrote: Tue Feb 02, 2021 4:20 pm If I can’t get enough pressure hold with weights I will rig that up! Good idea.
Just a guestimation and I might be wrong :lol:
With a 1" ball
It's going to take 1.3 pounds of pressure holding the ball down for every PSI
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Re: Steam build

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shadylane wrote: Sun Feb 14, 2021 12:09 am
Dancing4dan wrote: Tue Feb 02, 2021 4:20 pm If I can’t get enough pressure hold with weights I will rig that up! Good idea.
Just a guestimation and I might be wrong :lol:
With a 1" ball
It's going to take 1.3 pounds of pressure holding the ball down for every PSI
Good to know

Cleaning run will be used for test and tune on the relief valve idea. I have a lite spring if it needs to be topped with an adjuster. The only gauge I have is an antique and is in mm of mercury. Might be an add on just for shits and giggles. :D
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Re: Steam build

Post by Demy »

The only gauge I have is an antique and is in mm of mercury. Might be an add on just for shits and giggles. :D
Maybe you could use compressed air with a pressure gauge (only on the part of the column with the valve), it's just an idea I don't know if it is technically correct as a test.
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Re: Steam build

Post by SomethingObscure »

shadylane wrote:
Dancing4dan wrote: Tue Feb 02, 2021 4:20 pm If I can’t get enough pressure hold with weights I will rig that up! Good idea.
Just a guestimation and I might be wrong [emoji38]
With a 1" ball
It's going to take 1.3 pounds of pressure holding the ball down for every PSI
Quick question shady. Do you calculate that by taking the weight of the ball bearing and dividing it by the surface area of the opening?

So you could increase the pressure by drilling a small hole in an end cap and covering it with the ball bearing?

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Re: Steam build

Post by tiramisu »

Usually focus on the technical parts but that still is looking very pretty.
Might have to polish up the keg next. ;)
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Re: Steam build

Post by Dancing4dan »

220 Volt 30A controller. I added a 30A switch to the left side of the box since The photo was taken. Cycled a 4800 Watt shop heater repeatedly up and down to test controller. Seems good. All the smoke stayed in. A small USB fan for cooling. Didn’t seem to build any heat... but it is -29 Celsius. :cry:

Thanks for looking in.
IMG_3396-3.jpeg
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Re: Steam build

Post by Butch27 »

Dancing4dan wrote: Fri Feb 12, 2021 5:40 pm Some progress. IMG_3395-3.jpeg
Just curious what the tall column and sight glass are for?
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Re: Steam build

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Butch27 wrote: Tue Feb 16, 2021 7:18 am
Dancing4dan wrote: Fri Feb 12, 2021 5:40 pm Some progress. IMG_3395-3.jpeg
Just curious what the tall column and sight glass are for?
Lol. The column has every piece installed in that photo. I cut up my old column to make this and had the copper from that. If you look close the column can be assembled in several different configurations because of the tri clamps. I would like to add the ability to have Boka reflux as an option. I have some ideas that would make it removable. The glass sight is just there for future plans. Every piece can be eliminated or added in as needed.
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Re: Steam build

Post by Butch27 »

How are you going to drive the Boka? Steam? I'm curious how direct steam injection would work to drive a reflux still. I'm thinking it may not work real well. I have been looking but have not seen anyone on here that has done it successfully.
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Re: Steam build

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Butch27 wrote: Tue Feb 16, 2021 3:05 pm How are you going to drive the Boka? Steam? I'm curious how direct steam injection would work to drive a reflux still. I'm thinking it may not work real well. I have been looking but have not seen anyone on here that has done it successfully.
Not optimal, but with some engineering it could be optimized. Couple things come to mind.

*Eductor head installed horizontally, low, and on the tangent to promote mixing and also ensuring that incoming steam vapor is condensed as rapidly as possible.
* bubble ball type apparatus installed below the column to act as a buffer.

I don't think it'll be a very good rectifier. But I bet it'll do whiskey pretty good.
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Re: Steam build

Post by Dancing4dan »

No. Wasn’t thinking steam for a Boka.
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Re: Steam build

Post by The Baker »

LWTCS wrote: Sat Feb 13, 2021 9:31 am
Demy wrote: Sat Feb 13, 2021 5:41 am Excuse me, maybe I am talking nonsense but in the keg where the wash is located the steam entry must not be at the bottom? Maybe I misunderstood your design ...Maybe there is a pipe running down through the column?
Yes, should be tube in a tube that extends below the liquid level.
But that tube can be set OUTSIDE the thumper/ steamer.
It still needs to extend from the top to the bottom...

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Re: Steam build

Post by shadylane »

Dancing4dan wrote: Sun Feb 14, 2021 5:43 am The only gauge I have is an antique and is in mm of mercury.
Use some clear plastic hose and make a water manometer.
Make the manometer twice as tall as the thumper is deep.
The mano will double as a gage and pressure safety relief
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Re: Steam build

Post by Dancing4dan »

shadylane wrote: Wed Feb 17, 2021 12:40 am
Dancing4dan wrote: Sun Feb 14, 2021 5:43 am The only gauge I have is an antique and is in mm of mercury.
Use some clear plastic hose and make a water manometer.
There is some polycarbonate tubing set aside for that. Will intersect the steam cross arm with a T. Couple things getting worked out all at once.
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Re: Steam build

Post by Dancing4dan »

Silver soldered a pull through 2” ferrule to the lid of the mash pot.
Some pics of some of the ways the still column can be reconfigured. It can go on a keg and can also attach just the head without the short extension.
One goal is to be able to steam on grain.
Thank for looking in.
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Re: Steam build

Post by shadylane »

Looking good :thumbup:
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Re: Steam build

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shadylane wrote: Wed Feb 17, 2021 3:07 am Looking good :thumbup:
Thanks
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Re: Steam build

Post by Dancing4dan »

Silver soldered a pull through 2” ferrule in the side of the 20 gallon pot. Tri clamp adapter for the 4500 Watt element. Test ran the controller. All checks out.

Today was cleaning run. Vinegar run found a couple small solder leaks. Repair and clean the copper and did Vinegar run again! Ran some heads and two gallons of water through after that high and hot. Then wiped it all down and did just a long steam run through everything.

There is a four inch ferrule for the pot lid but I’m still considering how to do it. Same for both kegs.

Thanks for looking.
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Re: Steam build

Post by BlueSasquatch »

Dancing4dan wrote: Mon Feb 01, 2021 3:40 am The pressure relief valve needs some explaining. It is as yet untested.

It consists of a ball and seat. The seat is a piece of 3/4 coupling and the ball is a 1” bearing. The coupling has been lapped so the ball seals on the end of the coupling. The spring from a keg has a washer liver soldered to one end. There is a space between the washer and the ball as demonstrated by a copper ring in the photos. The spring and washer are only for containing the ball and just sit over the ball. It is not soldered to the column.

The space between the washer and the ball can be stacked with dollar coins to add weight to the ball so it can be calibrated to the pressure required.
So how have you found this to work? I greatly like the look of this, over a purchased valve. I am needing something for my new rig, and with a 2" Tee with a top-Cap, It would be an easy switch to put a 2x1 reducer like you have shown.

What do you mean the coupling has been lapped? You've got a 2x1 reducer and a 3/4" coupling soldered on the inside to the 1" portion of the reducer? The 1" ball bearing sits on top, another 3/4" coupling ontop of that, and the spring with washer, keeps the whole thing together, while providing downward pressure to the ball. Correct?
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