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First thing I ran through the still was an old cider that had gone too dry, came out a lovely liquorPikey wrote:Friend of mine used to make (And drink) - "Turbo Cider" apple juice, sugar and Turbo yeast to boost alcohol content.
He seemed to like it
I'm also experiencing the same problem. I'm using Wineos method since last six months successfully, but my fermentation is getting delayed in this winter season. Since I don't have a choice of varieties in yeast available here and I use only bakers yeast, can I compensate this with increased quantity of yeast per wash to speed up the fermentation?bilgriss wrote:Having said that, as the weather gets colder, you'll notice longer fermentation times. I usually switch to an ale yeast when the house is cooler. US-05 or Nottingham both like cool temperatures.
You have an acidity stall.. have you checked the PH?etoh100 wrote:but the fermentation stalled at about 1.037 after a few days,
That should be some very good water, and its probable there will be no need for any additional gypsum, if so, a tbsp would be ample..etoh100 wrote:All the water we use is from a cold spring that runs off the side of a mountain,
Yes it can be done, but, I am not one who recommend doing so.. I recommend using the left over (trub/lee)as stated in the previous post, cooked and used as yeast nutrient.. in sugar wash, reusing your trub without proper cleaning of the yeast impart a favour to the next batch, which I done care for..etoh100 wrote:Once we rack the wash into the still, can we just pour our next sugar water mixture right onto the yeast cake left in the fermenter for the next fermentation?
More questions araises only because one has not taken the time to comprehend what the information read is stating, which come from lack of experience, both from reading and doing.. just slow down some and try to relate to all that is taking place with the construction of a sugar wash.. there's many area one has to take into consideration, water quality, amount of sugar, the nutrients and amount to use, the ph factor during the varies period of fermentation, the fermenting temperature both at start and during fermentation, and the yeast used.. each one needs to be understood..etoh100 wrote: It seems the more I read, the more questions come up.
Yes many state to use lots of yeast, in part because they are just repeating what they have read, without understanding of yeast behavior.. in a properly constructed wash, very little yeast is required per gallon..etoh100 wrote:You said to go light on the yeast, but many of Wineo's directions seem to "overpitch"; up to a cup of dry yeast in only 6 gals.
That is another area that is not fully comprehended.. it is not required to aerate for the length of time you state.. a good stir of a minute or so is all that is required if starting the ferment using just dry yeast, and if you have made a starter, then no aeration is required..etoh100 wrote: I always aerate the wash for about 45 minutes w/a stone,
The issue is not with the yeast used.. you had a Ph issue.. you were somewhat lucky on your first run, but not on the second and third mainly due acidic level change, which will cause to stop fermenting earlier or even stall.. sugar wash are know for Ph issue..danny1202 wrote: 2nd time followed everything again except i decreased yeast (dady) but still more than package calls for. Wash start@1.060 but couldn't get to finish below 1.014
Yeasty critters are hardly little things ....the ones laying at the bottom of the fermenter are just as alive as all of the rest of them, they are just having a little sleep and a rest down there.badflash wrote:The stuff at the bottom at the end is dead or dying.
I'm in agreement with Saltlbush..badflash wrote:The stuff at the bottom at the end is dead or dying.
Having been a beer brewer since 1981 and specializing in all grain brewing, this is not misleading. The yeast at the bottom may be alive, but the stuff at the top is active in the conditions later in the brewing process. This is where the most vigorous stuff is, not the stuff that has gone dormant. I am sure you are familiar with “Kräusening”. They don't dredge up the trub for that. If you want beer that settles out early, go for the stuff at the bottom.It would be wise of you to research yeast behaviour, and how to culture it, as your statement is promotion misleading information..
Mars
Telling people that the "The stuff at the bottom at the end is dead or dying" is completely misleading to newbies and anyone else for that matter. We are not making beer here, this is a distilling forum. The yeast left at the bottom of fermenters is used in many of the washes we make. UJSM just as an example. Yeast can and will stay alive and healthy at the bottom of a fermenter for a very long time in deed.badflash wrote:Having been a beer brewer since 1981 and specializing in all grain brewing, this is not misleading.
Nope. Better by some measurements a scientist might make? Sure. Better in a practical manner for the home distiller? Not a chance. The logistics just don't work for most home distillers, when the wash is at high krausen, the fermenter is full. Most of us aren't in a production cycle that includes starting a new batch before the current wash is even done. Add to the fact that I give you a zero percent chance of tasting one of my spirits and accurately guessing if I pitched onto a yeast cake, krausened, or pitched a fresh starter. There just isn't really a "better" to it. Other than in theory, which as I mentioned, your theory is 100% correct. But pitching onto a yeast cake just flat out works fine.I am saying that if you want to inoculate the next batch with the previous one, the active yeast is better.
