Couple of design questions

strangebrew · Post by **strangebrew** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 9:21 pm

I plan on attaching 16" of 2" diam copper pipe to a bowl to a 15 gal keg. I am planning on using the pipe that I already have on hand for the cooling jacket for my condensor. It's going to be kicked off at a 45 degreee angle from the main pipe. It is 20" long 1 1/2" dia. I plan on running a piece of 1" pipe through it and then finally reducing it down to a 1/2 inch for the final out put tube. For a pot still of this size, does the jacket length and inner tube size sound about right for that type of setup? I don't know if this matters but i only plan on running between 5-10 gallons at a time through it. Most likely only 5 gallons till i can get things down pat. I don't know if I would be better off using 1/2" pipe for the whole condensor or if 1" would be better. Is the length of the jacket long enough?? Since I live out in the country I just plan on hooking up the water hose to the cooling jacket and letting er rip, so water flow shouldn't be a problem. I just would like some input from those who currently run this type of design. I plan on starting the build next weekend (at long last!!!!) so I want to make sure I have a proper design before I go out an start buying a bunch of pipe. I guess my main concern is the cooling not being enough and steam comming out the business end of things. I will be heating with a propane burner, so steam / fumes would be a very bad thing. Thanks for all the help and input yall!

possum · Post by **possum** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 9:40 pm

Sounds reasonable...ballpark reasonable, not engineered to the width of an gnats ass and garunteed.

I do mine on stovetop (electric) its a 5 gallon with a 14-18 inch condenser, line off of still head is 1 inch, interior of condenser necks to 1/2 inch, outside stays 1 inch. Mine looks like the picture by homedistiller forum. I have no need to run water at full blast, but I'm 1/3 your size.
With gas, you want to keep that output at a distance from the heat source as you well know. maybee some bendable copper tubing to help extend your distance, I'm not sure, but caution keeps ya alive with this hobby.

I assume you have good water pressure.
Good luck strangrbrew

strangebrew · Post by **strangebrew** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 10:01 pm

That's a big 10-4 on the safety issues Possum, I always try to err on the side of being to cautious.

I almost forgot to ask, how are you guys attaching the bowl to the top of the keg? I have thought about going the threaded rivet route but wanted to know if there was a better way to go about it. If i did go the threaded rivet route, will they work in a regualr ol pop rivet gun? I would hate to buy a tool for a single use like that if i didn't have to.

Perch · Post by **Perch** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 11:00 pm

strangebrew wrote:I would hate to buy a tool for a single use like that if i didn't have to.

Almost every decent size hardware store has a "Rental" cough cough (return policy). I've "rented" lots of things, expecially from Best Buy. Video cameras for school projects, Digital projectors or superbowl parties, Ipod's for road trips.

Peachey · Post by **Peachey** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 11:18 pm

Almost every decent size hardware store has a "Rental" cough cough (return policy).

Ha Ha Ha. I've done the same. Brought a cheap sander to sand the house... $30. Burnt out 3 of them, and returned the last one when I finished... cause I didn't like it.

stoker · Post by **stoker** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 10:34 am

the length/efficiency of your condenser should be linked with the power of your propane burner. the more powerfull your burner is, the more vapour you will have to condense, and vice versa.
a conderser which is (a bit) too long is no problem

nanosleep · Post by **nanosleep** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:01 pm

strangebrew wrote:That's a big 10-4 on the safety issues Possum, I always try to err on the side of being to cautious.

I almost forgot to ask, how are you guys attaching the bowl to the top of the keg? I have thought about going the threaded rivet route but wanted to know if there was a better way to go about it. If i did go the threaded rivet route, will they work in a regualr ol pop rivet gun? I would hate to buy a tool for a single use like that if i didn't have to.

I'm not sure what you mean by *threaded* rivets, but plain old pop rivets may not be air tight. You'll also need some sort of gasket between the bowl and the keg. Most kegs I've seen are not flat on top. They have reinforcing ridges. So the bowl may not fit closely.