Material to make a still...

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What kind of material did you use in the makin'of your still?

Copper only (no plastics or rubber)
11
19%
Copper & SS only (no plastics or rubber)
37
65%
SS only (no plastics or rubber)
3
5%
Some parts made of plastic (please add a comment)
4
7%
All plastics
2
4%
 
Total votes: 57

Bujapat
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Material to make a still...

Post by Bujapat »

Hi guys, why not a poll about this continuous discusses?

Personnaly, I didn't use any plastic in my still... Only copper and SS.
Only use plastic for fermenters.
I'm french speaking!

Boiler : 50 L (13 gal) beer keg, gas heated.
Reflux : 104 cm (41 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter withh SS scrubbers packing.
Potstill : 40 cm (15 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter without packing.
rectifier
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Post by rectifier »

I have one rubber part and it is the gasket around my heater element. It is wrapped in teflon to decrease reactivity and has a very small contact area with the wash, being mounted on the outside of the keg. The rest is copper and SS. I am not happy about it being there, but without this gasket, my still will leak.
Watershed
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Post by Watershed »

There's a lot of enameled steel in my still too - the whole boiler. It's fine as long as the coating doesn't get damaged.
Bujapat
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Post by Bujapat »

rectifier wrote:I have one rubber part and it is the gasket around my heater element.
I asked me the question about the same gasket : it was easy to make some rubber one (I had such rubber at home). Finally, I found (and used) some cork sheet and made the gasket from this. It works well, but I ask me : doesn't this cork sheet contain any glue or solvent ? I know cork is natural but don't know how cork sheets are made...
I'm french speaking!

Boiler : 50 L (13 gal) beer keg, gas heated.
Reflux : 104 cm (41 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter withh SS scrubbers packing.
Potstill : 40 cm (15 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter without packing.
LeftLaneCruiser
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Post by LeftLaneCruiser »

I voted Copper & SS, but that wouldn't be totally correct:

I also have stills made out of paint-tins (10 & 20 ltrs.), so that would be "just" steel. And i have an all glass setup.

Life is good... :D

KJH
Nichevo
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Post by Nichevo »

What? No Plywood/lead/asbestos option? :?
Grayson_Stewart
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Post by Grayson_Stewart »

Apparently all of our mother hen squawkin' has paid off....95% believe you should use all metal.
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Fourway
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Post by Fourway »

One person... count em, just one... clicked the "some plastics" button....
what this probably means is that all of these dumb time and bandwidth consuming arguments are with one person under a variety of names.
"a woman who drives you to drink is hard to find, most of them will make you drive yourself."
anon--
possum
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Post by possum »

Or perhapse the people who would use petrolium based componets have been disuaded from thier plastic containers and other dicey materials by the mother hen action. They also might not be participating in the poll.

mine is copper and silver/tin solder. I realize that tin is not perfect. tig welded all copper would be nice, but built it on a budget from salvage, and covertly at that.
Hey guys!!! Watch this.... OUCH!
Hootch
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Post by Hootch »

I have two reflux stills and a pot still. All are copper and stainless, except for the O-ring in the reflux and take-off valves. I'd like to find a way to get rid of these.
rectifier
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Post by rectifier »

I posted earlier after Nichevo, but there was an error displayed and my post appears to be missing.


It was ME! Rectifier, known anti-plastic activist. Voted for "my still contains plastic or rubber".


That is, if you count the heater element gasket. Perhaps many people aren't? I KNOW there are more of you using that gasket, I have seen it mentioned in many a thread as to attaching elements.

Hootch, that's the worst place to have O-rings, where they are exposed to high-proof product! Look for some proper needle valves in the store. Screw them up and down and make sure there are no rubber bits!
junkyard dawg
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Post by junkyard dawg »

Geez, its 4:45 am and i just got done with todays work... I had to come see what was new here....Its stainless and copper. that's Period........

Where I'm coming from, its about the best practice.... whats the best way to do this task? It starts with using the best materials... If you wanna use second tier material in your still and still accesories go for it. But thats just not EVER going to be the best practice.

I'm damn tired, but I'm not tired of this thread... materials and such.

If you wanna make better booze than what you can buy, then use the right materials.
pothead
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Post by pothead »

he he
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jim81147
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Post by jim81147 »

junkyard dawg wrote: It starts with using the best materials... If you wanna use second tier material in your still and still accesories go for it. But thats just not EVER going to be the best practice
I would like to possibly add a bit of clarification here . I dont think it is a problem to use plastic as long as IT DOES NOT come into contact with the product. I use plastic tubing on my reflux column for my cooling water to and from my condensor and I used JB weld to attach a coupler nut to the outside of my column so that I could run a piece of allthread over to another support for stability.
Uncle Remus
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Post by Uncle Remus »

I agree jim both my pot still and reflux column have plastic tubing connecting the cooling water. No problem there, as long as questionable material doesn't come in contact with the disillate or distillate vapour.

But Junk dawg is right, this shit keeps coming back time and time again and people want to argue for the sake of arguing or else trying to convince themselves that it might be okay to use material not known to be safe. The unfortunate part is if some knothead goes ahead and packs his reflux column with lead fishing sinkers... he's probably going to share the swill he makes with his neighbour and his wife and his friends who are totally unaware of what they are drinking. Then maybe convince newbies on a forum like this that it is okay.

The bottom line is, we know which materials are safe in distilling, so if your gonna build a still USE KNOWN SAFE MATERIALS! If your gonna do something do it right... and quit rehashing this subject over and over and over and over and ov.............. :evil:
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day and drink beer.
junkyard dawg
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Post by junkyard dawg »

well put Uncle Remus.
possum
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Post by possum »

Right on. If we go to extreme fussyness, the garden hose that brings the cooling water is rubber, the pvc pipe that is carying water to the spiggot in the house is plastic....my primary fermenter for whiskey is plastic, but everything that touches the product stream in my rig is copper or lead free solder. After distillation, I will use only glass or crockery.


I wonder who has the 100% plastic still...I wouldn't drink that product if I knew.
Hey guys!!! Watch this.... OUCH!
Swag
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Post by Swag »

OK, I got the message.
BTW, Just finished making a new still with a 4 foot tall, 3" column and used all copper, stainless and cork. :D
jim81147
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Post by jim81147 »

Bujapat did bring up a question that I think is valid . I have seen cork material that looks to be small ground up pieces bound together with "something" . Cork has been stated to be perfectly safe here and at other discussions. What about this sheet cork? I think it is probably used to make message boards around the house or maybe automotive gaskets . Has anyone used /seen this ? Any opinions?
possum
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Post by possum »

I used to use a cork gasket to seal my home made copper cap to boiler. Steam and alcohol vapor made the stuff wrinkle and crack some. I think it would work ok if the parts being gasketed are flat and flush together (mine wasn't) and screwed tight together. Cork will wear out after prolonged use in an alcohol vapor. I think different manufacturers use different glues. Your results may vary with different applications and products from various suppliers.

Now I just use flour paste.
It is not elegant or "classy" ,but it works like a Mac Truck.
Hey guys!!! Watch this.... OUCH!
Bujapat
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Pizza gasket!

Post by Bujapat »

I worried a little with this problem about cork gasket... (and glue or solvent)
For my last run, I tried flour paste... And to get an elegant look, I've made a sort of flour paste "pizza", about 5 mm thickness, that I cutted to have a beautifull circle...
It works... and also I think it looks "classy"! :wink:
I'm french speaking!

Boiler : 50 L (13 gal) beer keg, gas heated.
Reflux : 104 cm (41 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter withh SS scrubbers packing.
Potstill : 40 cm (15 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter without packing.
Don Ventura
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Post by Don Ventura »

Okay I know this horse has been beaten to DEATH but I'll be damned if I can't find a Strait answer!!!

Whats the best material (not paste recipe) for gaskets btwn Boiler and Column bowl?


After a WEEK of reading and trolling here is what I have come up with:

I know Flour paste is what most of you use. That is a one shot deal there and you got to make more - cheap and ez I know but know what I am looking for.

Neoprene rubber was said to be okay for vaulves and the like, but how in the hell am I going to find a 12x12 sheet of that?

JB weld is a no no - that should be common sence I guees.

What about RTV silicone? I have read on the distillers Group that some ppl have been using that inplace of Flour paste. Any exp with that stuff. According to CTG, that material isnt so bad with ethanolmine (or whatever its called).

Aquarium Silicone is also a No no due to the lack of info on ethanol reactivity and high temp data.

Wood (poplar, birch, cedar) seems to be an option for some, but I am no craftsman and I dont have (friends or) access to a band/Jig saw to cut that kind of a circle.


Here is what I want: I just want a material I can cut to fit, use over and over again, wont wear out and is adequate for boiling off mash to produce muh likkah. I know it MUST exist! What would the larger distilleries be using it there wasnt????

Oh on a side note: w/o welding the bolts to the inside of boiler to hold the column bowl on top; is ther another way to seal them? LIKE (but NOT) JB weld? Braizing and welding are kinda out of the question as I dont have access to that sort of thing and I dont want to pay someone to do it. Yeah I'm a cheap bastard. But if I wasn't I guess I would be buying all my likkah at the store too.
Bujapat
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Post by Bujapat »

For gasket : I used successfully cork sheets, foam from camping mattress :wink: , and now flour paste. I still use cork when I haven't time for paste.

To fix the bolts inside boiler, I used a very simple way : I chamfered the holes so the bolts are screwed from the inside. Pictures on my blog...
I'm french speaking!

Boiler : 50 L (13 gal) beer keg, gas heated.
Reflux : 104 cm (41 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter withh SS scrubbers packing.
Potstill : 40 cm (15 inches) column 54 mm (2 inches) diameter without packing.
Brett
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2005 6:31 am

Post by Brett »

u can also get a type of bolt that has Grooves/lines cut into the bolt like they use for wheel studs, not sure if this would work (depends on thickness of the still metal) but its an idea.

Id thought about this with the cork gasket myself,
If u look at the gaskets there chipped pieces of cork, so is the epoxy they use to make this sheet safe with alcohol vapour?

ill stick to the flour and water seal myself its easy enough,

if ur lazy to make a bit of flour and water or u dont have it handy could u use some bread? just cut it to shape overlap on the joins and clamp down.
Plastics n stillin sucks
alluminium n stillin sucks
Dont go there
NUFF SAID
possum
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A way to check your cork gasket material.

Post by possum »

If the glue in the cork has you worried, try soaking a small sample in a bit of rubbing alcohol for a coupple of days,maybee warming it up, and then let the liquid evaporate on top of a clean, clear glass plate. Examine the plate for residue.

Other than the possibly suspect glue, cork works ok if it is kept even and flat. My cap+boiler connection is not shaped in the bowl/keg style. Mine has a cap shaped like a cone that turns inward where it meets the boiler. The boiler is flared outward slightly at the junction, while the cap flares inward. Paste is perfect for my application, your needs may be different.


Neoprene rubber can be found in wadders, waterproof fishing pants...You could get it really cheap at a yard sale, especially if there is a tear in them.

Good luck DonVentura
Hey guys!!! Watch this.... OUCH!
Uncle Remus
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Post by Uncle Remus »

I used gasket paper, not cork to seal the bowl to the keg. It works just fine. The trick is don't overtighten the fasteners holding the bowl down, I have wing nuts and flat washers and only go finger tight, if you go any tighter you'll distort the top of the keg/ rim of bowl and it won't seal.

I installed threaded inserts in the keg around the circumferance of the hole. But if you don't have access to a torch and brasing materials, you probably don't have access to a nutsert tool either.

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Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day and drink beer.
Swag
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Post by Swag »

I have found rolls of both cork and a number of different types of rubber at my local Ace hardware store. You might want to check around see what you can find.
level Joe
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Post by level Joe »

Don Ventura wrote: Yeah I'm a cheap bastard.
Sometimes it saves headaches and work if your not.
And yes, Im a cheap bastard and a pack rat.
Salus populi suprema est lex. [L.] The safety of the people is the highest law.
Don Ventura
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Post by Don Ventura »

Right, So no nutcert tool. I hae already drilled the holes and need to find a way to secure the screws to the Inside of the boiler. 20/20 hindsight is a bitch and I dont want to have to go buy a new Keg.

According to CTG's Chemical resistance goude for gaskets, Neoprene actually has a bit of reactivity to ethanolamine, which isn't a good thing. They say the same thing about all elastomers including the Silicone but I'm having a hard time understanding how much of a reaction. Teflone seems to be the only real substance that has no reactivity and can withstand a high temp enviornment.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
DAMN RESEARCH!!!
Last edited by Don Ventura on Wed Apr 05, 2006 2:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Swag
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Post by Swag »

Don Ventura wrote:Right, So no nutcert tool. I hae already drilled the holes and need to find a way to secure the screws to the Inside of the boiler. 20/20 hindsight is a bitch and I dont want to have to go buy a new Keg.

According to CTG's Chemical resistance goude for gaskets, Neoprene actually has a bit of reactivity to ethanolamine, which isn't a good thing. They say the same thing about all elastomers including the Silicone but I'm having a hard time understanding how much of a reaction. Teflone seems to be the only real substance that has no reactivity and can withstand a high temp enviornment.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
DAMN RESEARCH!!!
I have set nutserts without a specific tool. If you can grab the nutsert with a pair of pliers and hold it place, you can then thread a bolt into it from the top and tighten it up. This will compress the nutsert just like the tool does. Make sure you put a washer between the bolt and the nutsert to prevent turning the nutsert while you're cranking the bolt.
Did anybody here find some non rusting nutserts?
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