Condenser Size and Lenght
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Condenser Size and Lenght
Does it madder what size and length the condenser should be?
I am using a 4 gallon ss stock pot
I am using a 4 gallon ss stock pot
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- retired
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a simple question gets a simple answer,*MoonShine* wrote:Why so rude? All I wanted is a simple answer.....
Sorry
and all the simple questions are answered on the parent site.
I read it a good 3 or 4 times and got just about everything
I needed to know.
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if I can make wine I'm making shine!!!
if I can make wine I'm making shine!!!
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That wasn't a rude answer. I was trying to put it in simple terms that you might could understand because I assumed you had read the sight a couple of times and still didn't understand the mechanical principles of how or why a condensor works.
The most very basic idea to understand in distilling is to be able to condense the vapor. If the condensor is not large enough to accomplish the task then you are just boiling stuff and not distilling.
The most very basic idea to understand in distilling is to be able to condense the vapor. If the condensor is not large enough to accomplish the task then you are just boiling stuff and not distilling.
Light travels faster than sound. That is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
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I also am trying to find the right size for my condenser and have looked on the parent site and have tried to use the calculator but scholl was a long time ago and I can not find a formula so maybe 1 of the pros here knows of a formula to convert the BTU's of my gas fryer to watts which is what is used on the calculator
Simplistic answer?
Design your condenser to be twice as large as you can imagine it needing it to be, then make it 50% larger than that.
If you build a coaxial "counterflow" condenser by suspending a piece of 1/2" copper water pipe (actual diameter 5/8") inside of a piece of 3/4" copper water pipe (actual diameter 7/8") and force water through the "jacket" thats formed between the two tubes you can probably condense close to 750ml/min... at ~20gal/hr cooling water.
this is probably more condenser than people running Sanke kegs over HUGE gas burners actually need.....
Or if you really want to improve on the suggestion above?
use an 8foot section of "finned" aluminum baseboard radiator
(essentially 3/4" copper pipe with aluminum fins on it)
The fins will dissapate heat from the cooling water to the surrounding air and reduce the need for cooling water flow... OR allow for an increased product flow....
In general it's probably a good idea to build your condenser bigger than you really need to allow for future upgrades in boiler capacity or heat source. because it's easier (and usually cheaper) to build big than to build another one later.
AllanD
Design your condenser to be twice as large as you can imagine it needing it to be, then make it 50% larger than that.
If you build a coaxial "counterflow" condenser by suspending a piece of 1/2" copper water pipe (actual diameter 5/8") inside of a piece of 3/4" copper water pipe (actual diameter 7/8") and force water through the "jacket" thats formed between the two tubes you can probably condense close to 750ml/min... at ~20gal/hr cooling water.
this is probably more condenser than people running Sanke kegs over HUGE gas burners actually need.....
Or if you really want to improve on the suggestion above?
use an 8foot section of "finned" aluminum baseboard radiator
(essentially 3/4" copper pipe with aluminum fins on it)
The fins will dissapate heat from the cooling water to the surrounding air and reduce the need for cooling water flow... OR allow for an increased product flow....
In general it's probably a good idea to build your condenser bigger than you really need to allow for future upgrades in boiler capacity or heat source. because it's easier (and usually cheaper) to build big than to build another one later.
AllanD
Ok yall keep talking about the condensor with the tube and water jacket.
Will that work better than a coil in a bucket of ice? Seems like the ice would be better?
Also, I dont understand this formula stuff, why does it madder with the BTU's? I thought the Idea was to reach 172 degrees and keep it pretty close? why would it madder what the BTU's are if your vapors are 172?
Would like to hear from everyone but, especially AllanD
Thanks
Will that work better than a coil in a bucket of ice? Seems like the ice would be better?
Also, I dont understand this formula stuff, why does it madder with the BTU's? I thought the Idea was to reach 172 degrees and keep it pretty close? why would it madder what the BTU's are if your vapors are 172?
Would like to hear from everyone but, especially AllanD
Thanks
I'm running a 50 ltr keg and a huge burner and for my stripping run i have the small condenser (about 14" long) AND the long one (about 3 foot long), and with the burner full ball i still get warm distillate, i mean only just warm...
(the lower copper one is the large one and the SS one above is the small, )
and when i am doing a nice slow spirit run the small condenser is enough, if the distillate is warm then I'm going to hard and it smells and tastes like s@#t
(the lower copper one is the large one and the SS one above is the small, )
and when i am doing a nice slow spirit run the small condenser is enough, if the distillate is warm then I'm going to hard and it smells and tastes like s@#t
Whiskey, the most popular of the cold cures that don't work (Leonard Rossiter)
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- Rumrunner
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="AllanD"]Simplistic answer?
Design your condenser to be twice as large as you can imagine it needing it to be, then make it 50% larger than that.
If you build a coaxial "counterflow" condenser by suspending a piece of 1/2" copper water pipe (actual diameter 5/8") inside of a piece of 3/4" copper water pipe (actual diameter 7/8") and force water through the "jacket" thats formed between the two tubes you can probably condense close to 750ml/min... at ~20gal/hr cooling water.
AllanD
AllanD - You forgot length. I'm sure a lot of us would be satisfied by 12" but 12" of the specified condenser may not do the job.
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- Rumrunner
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