from the parent site:
When the firsts start, it will sit at 65C-70C. This is mostly methanol coming off. This you dont want. Then it will suddenly rise as all the methanol is removed. It will rise to 78-low 80s (depending on heat and what you want).
I get only about 5 drips before it goes above 70c. I get 150ml to toss at mid 80's.
What kind of still was it on parent sight?Dont try to go by temp with pot stillToss 1/4 to 1/2 cup per 5 gallons wash and taste it from there to get flavor ya want. And id get rid of the plastic in vapor path and at end of condenser.
tater wrote:What kind of still was it on parent sight?Dont try to go by temp with pot stillToss 1/4 to 1/2 cup per 5 gallons wash and taste it from there to get flavor ya want. And id get rid of the plastic in vapor path and at end of condenser.
it's all medical grade silicone tubing, which from all the other posts about that and teflon, I'm happy with it Gives me flexibility.
But yeah, I was just wondering about the temp thing, since mine seems so far off. I toss 100ml on my stripping, and 50ml on my second rum, and go by ABV and taste on the second run regardless of temp.
oh yeah, the text I quoted was in the pot still distilling section.
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I want my last words to be:
"Hey, this is kind of fun!!"
Some only make cuts on 2nd run . Me when I double run I make cuts on both runs if taste says its needed. And throw the damn thermometor away get out beadin jar or hydrometer out.toss out fourshots and heads. Heads will taste sweet .Taste it youll see.Kkeep till proof drops to 90 and start tasting.Tails will start around in that proof and become stronger as proof drops. 80 proof is far as ill usally go into run..After that I save tails for addin back into next run.Wish you wouldnt take chanch with plastic but to each there own.
Im curious too, the heat must have to be kept very low in order not to overheat the culumn/condensor.
I couldnt live without a 2" column myself, 3" would be ever better if 3" pipe wasnt so dear. And the adapters and fitting so expensive and diffacult to find.
I like that your still is fabricated with really easy items to get and work with. In my area finding 2" copper parts is not easy for the small scale builder or cheap either.
Once just for fun I was going to build a "twin tower" column made up of two 2" columns. I still might do this someday.
I could either T the columns together and essentially double the volume of just one column, or I could have them going to separate outputs and even make one column a reflux column so I could make rum and vodka at the same time.
="riff42"
I get only about 5 drips before it goes above 70c. I get 150ml to toss at mid 80's.
That sounds fine.
I tried to compare my temps to what I read on the site when I started and found the same as you, they don't really compare. I figured out that temp is really only for your own reference on your own still; it doesn't really work to compare to others if you are using a pot still. Like tater said, a spirit hydrometer is much more useful at the beginning and of course your senses which become refined with practice.
Your still looks like my first still except I used a worm condesor.
All that I can say is, if it doesn't cost you much more, go with a bigger column. It will save you alot of time. Even if you find a 3/4 or 1" piece of copper lying around.. use that.
Find a friendly junkyard for used copper tubing. Just lay out what you are doing. Most junk dealers are real world people and willing to help. Mine did. M.
That's a really odd looking column. How long does a strip run take with that?
I have a 2" column and I feel like its too restrictive to flow sometimes... lol
I'm not putting it down, it's very functional and simple.. I like that.
A 5 gal strip with no downtime for leaks (i REALLY need a new way to attach the thermometer, the way I have it now sucks 1/2 the time), it takes me about 3 hours? I never really timed it, but I'm not really concerned.
I have some 1.5" laying around, half is going towards an inline hydrometer setup, and the other half might go on some 3/4" for a foot or 3. (pot, 1.5" reducer, 3/4", angle, downarm to condenser).....but who knows when I'll get around to doing that. I'm still trying to figure out how to stop the damn leaks permanently!
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I want my last words to be:
"Hey, this is kind of fun!!"
Im curious too, the heat must have to be kept very low in order not to overheat the culumn/condensor.
I couldnt live without a 2" column myself, 3" would be ever better if 3" pipe wasnt so dear. And the adapters and fitting so expensive and diffacult to find.
I like that your still is fabricated with really easy items to get and work with. In my area finding 2" copper parts is not easy for the small scale builder or cheap either.
nope, never had a problem with that. Yeah, I can't run full blast due to some never ending leaks @ the thermometer port, but I don't have a problem with the tiny arm. Soon it will be bigger.
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I want my last words to be:
"Hey, this is kind of fun!!"
I just have my thermometer sitting in a tight hole on the top of my column. I sealed it with aquarium sealant although that really acts like more of a gasket than anything else it's not glued in place or anything.
speedfreaksteve wrote:I just have my thermometer sitting in a tight hole on the top of my column. I sealed it with aquarium sealant although that really acts like more of a gasket than anything else it's not glued in place or anything.
I have some ideas, but if I make the coloum/arm out of larger dia. pipe, I am just going to stick a thermowell in one and use that instead!! No more crazy holes.
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I want my last words to be:
"Hey, this is kind of fun!!"
On my one pot still I have the thermometer sitting in a piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe. No seal whatsoever, The head of the thermometer covers the hole and the probe end hangs down in the head. There is no vapour loss. There is no pressure in the still and the vapour has an easier path than trying to push it's way past the thermometer.
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day and drink beer.
If your determined to use the thermometer, heres what i suggest. Go to your hardware store and pick up a 1/8"compression fitting,a bulkhead style would be easiest to work with but a screw in type will also do. Measure the diameter of you thermometer, remove the ferrule from the compression fitting and screw the cap back on. Find a drill bit that is slightly larger than the thermometer, and drill the fitting out. If you have a bulkhead style,the fitment of that should explain itsself, if you got the screw in type, drill the appropriate sized hole and solder it in. Put the nut on thermo stem and wrap the stem of the thermometer 5 -10 times at the depth you want it. Install assembly.
. You now have yourself a leak free thermometer.
If it was easy everybody would do it.
Please join the Partnership For an Idiot Free World.
(edit: I had to check my taps) 1/8" npt taps are pretty cheap. I can drill and tap a hole for this setup in a minute or two.
I don't want to start an argument but I do want to say that Napa sells buna(nitrile) vacuum line caps that fit perfectly into compression fittings and around the stem of most instant read thermometers. I have been using these at my own risk for 20 years. I've never had one fail and they seal perfectly.
Last edited by pintoshine on Tue Dec 05, 2006 4:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
pintoshine wrote:(edit: I had to check my taps) 1/8" npt taps are pretty cheap. I can drill and tap a hole for this setup in a minute or two.
I don't want to start an argument but I do want to say that Napa sells buna(nitrile) vacuum line caps that fit perfectly into compression fittings and around the stem of most instant read thermometers. I have been using these at my own risk for 20 years. I've never had one fail and they seal perfectly.
hm...never thought about that idea!!!
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I want my last words to be:
"Hey, this is kind of fun!!"
Gives me flexibility.
