I am trying to make sure that when I use my 5 litre supereflux still I eliminate as much methanol as possible and not generate any iso-propyl alcohol
I do about 6 runs of 4 litres each make
Each batch I collect 50 ml first up and return this to the next run to reduce the methanol .
The still normally runs at 82'c this weather , the lowest I can get with Sydney tap water , I increase the water flow when the temperature goes above 82'c and when I can no longer hold the temperature at 83'c I stop,
my assumption is that I will get very little , if not no iso-propyl alcohol at all
I put the resultant 7.5 litres of cut spirit ( to 40% ) through fresh activated charcoal .
I am reasonable happy and personally have found no off flavours
HOWEVER
I had somebody say that the bottle of " Baileys " I gave them reminded them of paint laquer and that they ended up with a headache .
Other people had the same batch and had no problems , I had no off tastes in my bottle . I have made three batches , and made several drinks from the spirit and this is my first knockback
Am I doing anything wrong , and if so how can I improve
Distillation temperatures
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hornedrhodent
- Rumrunner
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Re: Distillation temperatures
You're putting the foreshots back in the next run?="Rod"
Each batch I collect 50 ml first up and return this to the next run to reduce the methanol .
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Uncle Remus
- Trainee
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- Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 8:38 am
- Location: great white north
Sounds like your not getting rid of the nasties but concentrating them. The 50ml you take off at the start should be going in your camp stove, not back in the next batch. You really ought to do some reading on the theory of distillation.
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day and drink beer.
Yeah, read up a bit more. If you're doing sugar washes then there shouldn't be any methanol there anyway, but the ethyl acetate has a very solventy smell and tastes awful too. If you collect 50 mL of one 4L batch, then that's a decent cut for that batch so the rest that comes out will probably be fine. I believe the parent site says you should toss anywhere from 50mL to 150mL on a 20L wash. So in your case, you should be pouring down the drain the first 10mL-30mL that comes out of each 4L run. THEN you can collect your heads (probably another 50mL or so), which will go to the next run. Foreshots are very concentrated nasties and heads are mostly ethanol with a tiny bit of nasties.
Going by smell is the best way to know what's going on.
I'd recommend you not give away any booze until you really feel like you know what you're doing. It took me a few months to feel like I knew what was going on.
Going by smell is the best way to know what's going on.
I'd recommend you not give away any booze until you really feel like you know what you're doing. It took me a few months to feel like I knew what was going on.
Been off air on hols for a few days
Obviously when you read , read , read , you need to read the correct stuff
below is a copy of the instructions which came with the still
Distilling using the Still Spirits 5 litre Super
To assemble a 5 litre Super Reflux Still:
Your Super Reflux Still comes complete with 250ml of Still Spirit Ceramic Saddles
I. Add the Still Spirits Ceramic Saddles to the condenser making sure that the wire mesh is sitting Hat in the condenser chamber. Fit Bung.
2. Fit the condenser to the domed lid and tighten securely.
3. Situate the still on a firm heat resistant base close by a cold water tap, drain and power socket.
4. Fit the thermometer so that the bulb appears on the inside of the black bung by 20mm. Then refit the bung & thermometer into the top of the condenser.
Distillation:
1. Plug the cord into the element while supporting the element from the inside of the still (don't have the cord plugged into the electrical socket at this point). Add 5 litres of the wash and fit the lid complete with Condenser and hoses.
2. Plug the cord into the wall socket. When the wash has warmed up, but before the thermometer reads 50" C, start the cold water running through the Condenser.
3. During most of the distillation process the cooling water flowing through the condenser should be flowing at about 400 mls per minute. To measure the flow, fill a calibrated jug from the outlet pipe for one minute.
4. Collect the first 50 mls and put to one side. This is the Head.
5. Collect 650 mls of the Body which contains the Ethanol (drinkable alcohol) at about 80% proof Make sure that the spirit outlet tube from the condenser stays well above the level of the spirit. Do not collect alcohol after 650 mls (700 mls if head is added to the wash).
6. The more cooling water that flows through the condenser the lower the temperature in the reflux column, this will show on the thermometer. The temperature of your water also influences the amount you need (i.e. In summer you may need more water than in winter when the water is cooler).
7. The slower the cooling water flows through the condenser, the higher the temperature will rise producing a faster flow of spirit. Running the cooling water at less than 400 mls per minute may result in the lid pushing off If you run more than 500 mls of cooling water through the condenser then this will slow the process down.
8. Repeat steps I - 8 with the other 4 batches of 5 litres that you have fermented.
With each subsequent batch you can add the 50 mls of head collected from the batch prior, along with the 5 litres of wash, to the still.
If you do this you can increase the quantity of condensate collected to 700 mls. After the last 5 litre batch has been run, discard the 50 mls head. Remember that you have extracted the alcohol so the rest of the wash contains fermentation byproducts and water and should be discarded.
9. The thermometer temperature will slowly rise as the alcohol is boiled off Should the temperature exceed 92° C and you have not collected the full amount of distillate then increase the flow of water through the condenser to hold the temperature at 92° C. If the flow slows down substantially then this would indicate that there is no more alcohol left in the wash and that it is time to stop collecting.
From a standard 25 litre wash produced with 7 kgs of Dextrose you should collect 3.45 litres of alcohol at 80(% strength. Any Alcohol collected after the still has produced 750 mls (800 mls ifhead is added to the wash) 11'om 5 litres of a standard turbo wash will be poor quality and should be discarded. Remember to always measure the strength of your spirit at 20° Celsius or refer to the Temperature Correction Chart on page 5 to make the relevant adjustments. Discard the rest of the fermented wash.
I realise that to toss the first 50 ml of each run is not a lot , and will now send it to the gods .
PS having just done some more reading I see ( from Tony Akland ) that the rubbing alcohol comes off at 82 'c , so I need to keep the temperature between 78'c and at the most 81'c
Thanks for the help
Obviously when you read , read , read , you need to read the correct stuff
below is a copy of the instructions which came with the still
Distilling using the Still Spirits 5 litre Super
To assemble a 5 litre Super Reflux Still:
Your Super Reflux Still comes complete with 250ml of Still Spirit Ceramic Saddles
I. Add the Still Spirits Ceramic Saddles to the condenser making sure that the wire mesh is sitting Hat in the condenser chamber. Fit Bung.
2. Fit the condenser to the domed lid and tighten securely.
3. Situate the still on a firm heat resistant base close by a cold water tap, drain and power socket.
4. Fit the thermometer so that the bulb appears on the inside of the black bung by 20mm. Then refit the bung & thermometer into the top of the condenser.
Distillation:
1. Plug the cord into the element while supporting the element from the inside of the still (don't have the cord plugged into the electrical socket at this point). Add 5 litres of the wash and fit the lid complete with Condenser and hoses.
2. Plug the cord into the wall socket. When the wash has warmed up, but before the thermometer reads 50" C, start the cold water running through the Condenser.
3. During most of the distillation process the cooling water flowing through the condenser should be flowing at about 400 mls per minute. To measure the flow, fill a calibrated jug from the outlet pipe for one minute.
4. Collect the first 50 mls and put to one side. This is the Head.
5. Collect 650 mls of the Body which contains the Ethanol (drinkable alcohol) at about 80% proof Make sure that the spirit outlet tube from the condenser stays well above the level of the spirit. Do not collect alcohol after 650 mls (700 mls if head is added to the wash).
6. The more cooling water that flows through the condenser the lower the temperature in the reflux column, this will show on the thermometer. The temperature of your water also influences the amount you need (i.e. In summer you may need more water than in winter when the water is cooler).
7. The slower the cooling water flows through the condenser, the higher the temperature will rise producing a faster flow of spirit. Running the cooling water at less than 400 mls per minute may result in the lid pushing off If you run more than 500 mls of cooling water through the condenser then this will slow the process down.
8. Repeat steps I - 8 with the other 4 batches of 5 litres that you have fermented.
With each subsequent batch you can add the 50 mls of head collected from the batch prior, along with the 5 litres of wash, to the still.
If you do this you can increase the quantity of condensate collected to 700 mls. After the last 5 litre batch has been run, discard the 50 mls head. Remember that you have extracted the alcohol so the rest of the wash contains fermentation byproducts and water and should be discarded.
9. The thermometer temperature will slowly rise as the alcohol is boiled off Should the temperature exceed 92° C and you have not collected the full amount of distillate then increase the flow of water through the condenser to hold the temperature at 92° C. If the flow slows down substantially then this would indicate that there is no more alcohol left in the wash and that it is time to stop collecting.
From a standard 25 litre wash produced with 7 kgs of Dextrose you should collect 3.45 litres of alcohol at 80(% strength. Any Alcohol collected after the still has produced 750 mls (800 mls ifhead is added to the wash) 11'om 5 litres of a standard turbo wash will be poor quality and should be discarded. Remember to always measure the strength of your spirit at 20° Celsius or refer to the Temperature Correction Chart on page 5 to make the relevant adjustments. Discard the rest of the fermented wash.
I realise that to toss the first 50 ml of each run is not a lot , and will now send it to the gods .
PS having just done some more reading I see ( from Tony Akland ) that the rubbing alcohol comes off at 82 'c , so I need to keep the temperature between 78'c and at the most 81'c
Thanks for the help
Unfortunately, it's not that simple. When you have a mixture of liquids, they get their own new combined boiling point that is somewhere in the middle of the various boiling points of the individual liquids. And when that mixture boils, all of the components boil off, regardless of what those liquids' boiling points are alone. But there will be relatively more of the substance with the lower boiling point in the vapor. So if you have isopropyl alcohol mixed with ethanol and the current boiling temperature is 80C then you most certainly will have isopropyl vapors present.PS having just done some more reading I see ( from Tony Akland ) that the rubbing alcohol comes off at 82 'c , so I need to keep the temperature between 78'c and at the most 81'c
The best way to keep nasties out of your product is to keep your washes clean. Try backing off on the sugar a little bit. Seven kg in 25 litres is a bit aggressive and could be straining the yeast.
The instructions that you posted are making it sound a little easier than it is and slightly unrealistic. Yeah, you can get 3.45 litres of 80% booze out of a 7kg, 25 litre wash, but it probably won't taste very good. If you lower your yields and expectations for quantity then you can improve the expectations for quality.
And what the instructions say about heads are correct, but before you collect those 50mL of heads, you should collect 10-30mL of foreshots and pour those down the sink every time. After that you can put the heads in the next batch.
As an alternative to simply throwing away the foreshots, store them for use as a cleaner or for firing the camp stove (waste not, want not. . . you should collect 10-30mL of foreshots and pour those down the sink every time. After that you can put the heads in the next batch.
) but don't save them as part of your distillate, with that I totally agree!Never do tomorrow what you can do today because if you like what you do today you can do it AGAIN tomorrow!
Just out of curiosity - where did you get your still and those instructions?
Don’t take it the wrong way when someone tells you to read up on what you are trying to do. Everyone must start somewhere and reading is the first step. This site has tons of info - I read it four times and still go back to it for reference.
Don’t take it the wrong way when someone tells you to read up on what you are trying to do. Everyone must start somewhere and reading is the first step. This site has tons of info - I read it four times and still go back to it for reference.
Keep it simple
As an alternative to simply throwing away the foreshots, store them for use as a cleaner or for firing the camp stove (waste not, want not(quote)Hackers
What kind of camp stove are you referring to. A naptha stove?
What kind of camp stove are you referring to. A naptha stove?
I don't care if you lick windows,
take the special bus
or occasionally pee on yourself..
You hang in there sunshine, you're friggin' special
take the special bus
or occasionally pee on yourself..
You hang in there sunshine, you're friggin' special
I got the still from the local brew shop and the instructions came with it
The still is a " still spirits " brand
I am taking offence about the read comment in any way , far from it ,the printed word unfortunately can sometimes be a bit sterile . I have brewed beer for a long time and the learning curve can be filled with a few not so good batches and can be blessed with some very good stuff . Usually more bad than good but after time you get to make what you "know ' is to you taste .
My comment about reading the correct stuff is that sometimes one can take advise from what seems like being authoratative but can be a little tainted . Some brews that have been listed as great can be not so great to you . After all some people love VB
The still is a " still spirits " brand
I am taking offence about the read comment in any way , far from it ,the printed word unfortunately can sometimes be a bit sterile . I have brewed beer for a long time and the learning curve can be filled with a few not so good batches and can be blessed with some very good stuff . Usually more bad than good but after time you get to make what you "know ' is to you taste .
My comment about reading the correct stuff is that sometimes one can take advise from what seems like being authoratative but can be a little tainted . Some brews that have been listed as great can be not so great to you . After all some people love VB
If you do this, store it in a marked and highly recognizable container. If you collect a large amount of foreshots over the course of many runs then you now have a highly lethal substance that should not be allowed to get mistaken for the real thing. Personally, I dump it down the sink so I don't ever have to worry about it.As an alternative to simply throwing away the foreshots, store them for use as a cleaner or for firing the camp stove
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Rebel_Yell
- Swill Maker
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Thu Jun 22, 2006 3:03 pm
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Rebel_Yell
- Swill Maker
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Thu Jun 22, 2006 3:03 pm
?? Am I tossing foreshots because they contain water??masonjar wrote:I've heard that's a bad idea since gas and water don't mix. Plus, where I live, I'd be worried about frozen gas lines.
No! because they contain some measure of methanol.
How much water do you have?
I would rather teach a pig to sing than argue with an Idiot.
Hi Rod,
I too started out with the Still Spirits super reflux....and I can vouch that what you are doing is exactly as the instructions read. I would personally lower your take....your product will improve dramatically. Also, with your friend not liking the baileys, I've found 95% of people that try mine enjoy the drink, the other 5% just like to shoot their mouths off. Go with the general concensus!
I too started out with the Still Spirits super reflux....and I can vouch that what you are doing is exactly as the instructions read. I would personally lower your take....your product will improve dramatically. Also, with your friend not liking the baileys, I've found 95% of people that try mine enjoy the drink, the other 5% just like to shoot their mouths off. Go with the general concensus!
It is most absurdly said, in popular language, of any man, that he is disguised in liquor; for, on the contrary, most men are disguised by sobriety. ~Thomas de Quincy, Confessions of an English Opium-Eater, 1856
Rudi , thanks for yur commets
would like to replace the pastic hose with copper , but how did you connect or seal to the condenser
no silicon seal was supplied , just metal to metal contact , so that bits done
Coopsoz , thanks ,you said "I would personally lower your take....your product will improve dramatically"
so I don't misunderstand , do you mean throw out the first 50 ml of each run as discussed earlier
I want to make sure I get the best product as well as making sure I do not " poison somebody "
would like to replace the pastic hose with copper , but how did you connect or seal to the condenser
no silicon seal was supplied , just metal to metal contact , so that bits done
Coopsoz , thanks ,you said "I would personally lower your take....your product will improve dramatically"
so I don't misunderstand , do you mean throw out the first 50 ml of each run as discussed earlier
I want to make sure I get the best product as well as making sure I do not " poison somebody "
Yes, definately throw out the 50mls. Also, try and let your nose and taste guide you....just because the SS super reflux instructions say you'll get 650mls, it may not be the case. Also, (as I'm no chemist and have no evidence to qualify this) I'm pretty sure you can't poison anyone on a sugar wash, the meth content is minimal.
It is most absurdly said, in popular language, of any man, that he is disguised in liquor; for, on the contrary, most men are disguised by sobriety. ~Thomas de Quincy, Confessions of an English Opium-Eater, 1856
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Rudi
- Rumrunner
- Posts: 518
- Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:27 am
- Location: 50 miles past kikatinalong up that dirt track
Evening Rod
I just got a die grinder with a small sanding disk attachment and sanded the coating off the barb where the plastic hose pushes on then used a flaring tool to flare out 1/4 " copper pipe to suit the barb then soldered it on . The gasket was stuck to the lid inside a little rebate then it used a paint tin clamp to clamp it to the boiler havent changed it yet but plan to dig it out and use gasket paper the same as my keg still I agree with CoopsOz dont just blindly collect 650mls use your nose and taste buds search for a topic" the bead please "good info about using your senses .I use my foreshots for a small metho burner in a nipper kipper smoke oven.
I just got a die grinder with a small sanding disk attachment and sanded the coating off the barb where the plastic hose pushes on then used a flaring tool to flare out 1/4 " copper pipe to suit the barb then soldered it on . The gasket was stuck to the lid inside a little rebate then it used a paint tin clamp to clamp it to the boiler havent changed it yet but plan to dig it out and use gasket paper the same as my keg still I agree with CoopsOz dont just blindly collect 650mls use your nose and taste buds search for a topic" the bead please "good info about using your senses .I use my foreshots for a small metho burner in a nipper kipper smoke oven.
Such is life
Hi Rudi ,
thanks for the info on replacing the plastic tube , I will look into that
I have been stopping my distillation when I could no longer hold the temperature at the condenser to 83'C
I am going to now try to hold the temperate to 78'C /79'C
and then taste / play it by ear from then --- bearing in mind my thermometer maybe be out too
I am not sure what taste difference I can expect , but I suppose if it starts to taste funny or "bad" I will stop
I did run the still with just water in it at the start and thermometer read with-in a degree of 100'C
I have a batch which has been in the fermentor for about 2 weeks , 1 week to ferment , 1 week to clear , and I will run this thru in a couple of days
let you know how it goes
thanks for the info on replacing the plastic tube , I will look into that
I have been stopping my distillation when I could no longer hold the temperature at the condenser to 83'C
I am going to now try to hold the temperate to 78'C /79'C
and then taste / play it by ear from then --- bearing in mind my thermometer maybe be out too
I am not sure what taste difference I can expect , but I suppose if it starts to taste funny or "bad" I will stop
I did run the still with just water in it at the start and thermometer read with-in a degree of 100'C
I have a batch which has been in the fermentor for about 2 weeks , 1 week to ferment , 1 week to clear , and I will run this thru in a couple of days
let you know how it goes
G'day Rod, one other thing i've learnt from all the old hats lurking around the forum is to collect in small jars. Leave them lined up in order and come back the next day and do your smelling. I know that it can get very difficult to distinguish on distillation day...it all starts to smell the same, especially if you've had a few taste tests along the way. It's very easy to smell the difference with a fresh nose.
It is most absurdly said, in popular language, of any man, that he is disguised in liquor; for, on the contrary, most men are disguised by sobriety. ~Thomas de Quincy, Confessions of an English Opium-Eater, 1856
With the 5 litre reflux still I have been getting about 600 ml per 4l run
I usually run 4 litre each time to minimise any frothing
I increased the water from the recommended 25 litres ,with 8kg of sugar
using Alcotec 48 hr turbo super yeast over 5 days , to a good 27 litres to give the yeast a better chance
I will run 4 litres this time and collect 5 to 6 100ml lots and stop when the temperature rises above 82'C and then leave of the rest wash until I have tasted the stuff next day
If I was to run some more after the normal stop point and collect this I should have a better chance of recognising the rough stuff , maybe even a couple of 100 ml samples .
If I do this what is the best way to clean the saddles ,
Boil them in water
or just run the still with straight water
Can I assume if i get a hint of a bad taste in the last 100 ml lot I can put it back in the next run etc
I usually run 4 litre each time to minimise any frothing
I increased the water from the recommended 25 litres ,with 8kg of sugar
using Alcotec 48 hr turbo super yeast over 5 days , to a good 27 litres to give the yeast a better chance
I will run 4 litres this time and collect 5 to 6 100ml lots and stop when the temperature rises above 82'C and then leave of the rest wash until I have tasted the stuff next day
If I was to run some more after the normal stop point and collect this I should have a better chance of recognising the rough stuff , maybe even a couple of 100 ml samples .
If I do this what is the best way to clean the saddles ,
Boil them in water
or just run the still with straight water
Can I assume if i get a hint of a bad taste in the last 100 ml lot I can put it back in the next run etc
Hi Rod,
Also remember that it's only the middle cut that will have no smell. Below is what I do...it is taken directly from one of Alex's (bokakob's) post. I have built one of his still's so I follow it verbatim. Adapt it to suit your own figures and you will have no drama's.
This is a typical breakdown of my common 20L sugar + turbo wash which I run on
my rig routinely.
All numbers are approximate since these numbers may change or fluctuate slightly according to many factors, I would not try to describe. Presumably these are the median numbers to start working with.
20L wash @ 18% = 20•0.18=3.6L pure alcohol
3.6L pure alcohol = 3.79L @ 95% what you get from the still
PRE-TAKE = about 30% of theoretical volume of the alcohol (3.79L)
I personally discard (you can use it as a lighter or solvent fluid) first 120-150 mL
This leaves (3.79L•0.3)-0.15L=0.987L (say 1 Liter) for a separate distillation.
I save it in a separate bottle for another run.
MAIN-TAKE= about 40% of theoretical volume of the alcohol (3.79L•0.4) = 1.52L
(say 1.50L). This volume must be diluted to 40% abv with 2.17L (say 2.2L) of water. Adding the alcohol and water makes a total of 1.5L+2.17L=3.7L of vodka.
This translates approximately to 4.9 (say 5) bottles of 0.75L of vodka.
TAILS=1.13L (say 1 liter) = the rest and it goes in a separate bottle
for redistilling.
To round off the numbers it will be the following:
0.15L –non-consumption use
1.0L – heads
1.5L – main take (or 5 bottles of 0.75L 40% abv vodka)
1.0L - tails
This is what I do with my still, according to my settings and regime of distillation, basically -- what I like. Other points of view and final tasting results may vary. It will be slightly different breakdown if you want to through the pre-take and tails in the next batch of 18% wash.
Again my taste is different from any other and I try to avoid off-flavors. You would
have to adjust the numbers to your still and methods of distilling. If distill twice or even better three times and then you put this 40% abv on carbon for a while, then it should be a very superb vodka from the fridge.
I hope this helps
Also remember that it's only the middle cut that will have no smell. Below is what I do...it is taken directly from one of Alex's (bokakob's) post. I have built one of his still's so I follow it verbatim. Adapt it to suit your own figures and you will have no drama's.
This is a typical breakdown of my common 20L sugar + turbo wash which I run on
my rig routinely.
All numbers are approximate since these numbers may change or fluctuate slightly according to many factors, I would not try to describe. Presumably these are the median numbers to start working with.
20L wash @ 18% = 20•0.18=3.6L pure alcohol
3.6L pure alcohol = 3.79L @ 95% what you get from the still
PRE-TAKE = about 30% of theoretical volume of the alcohol (3.79L)
I personally discard (you can use it as a lighter or solvent fluid) first 120-150 mL
This leaves (3.79L•0.3)-0.15L=0.987L (say 1 Liter) for a separate distillation.
I save it in a separate bottle for another run.
MAIN-TAKE= about 40% of theoretical volume of the alcohol (3.79L•0.4) = 1.52L
(say 1.50L). This volume must be diluted to 40% abv with 2.17L (say 2.2L) of water. Adding the alcohol and water makes a total of 1.5L+2.17L=3.7L of vodka.
This translates approximately to 4.9 (say 5) bottles of 0.75L of vodka.
TAILS=1.13L (say 1 liter) = the rest and it goes in a separate bottle
for redistilling.
To round off the numbers it will be the following:
0.15L –non-consumption use
1.0L – heads
1.5L – main take (or 5 bottles of 0.75L 40% abv vodka)
1.0L - tails
This is what I do with my still, according to my settings and regime of distillation, basically -- what I like. Other points of view and final tasting results may vary. It will be slightly different breakdown if you want to through the pre-take and tails in the next batch of 18% wash.
Again my taste is different from any other and I try to avoid off-flavors. You would
have to adjust the numbers to your still and methods of distilling. If distill twice or even better three times and then you put this 40% abv on carbon for a while, then it should be a very superb vodka from the fridge.
I hope this helps
It is most absurdly said, in popular language, of any man, that he is disguised in liquor; for, on the contrary, most men are disguised by sobriety. ~Thomas de Quincy, Confessions of an English Opium-Eater, 1856
The best made plans of mice and men
I could not get the temperature below 82'C
Water temp in 25'C
Water temp out 30'C
most of the run between 82' and 83'
keep 7 lots of stuff
1 containing the first 50 ml , seems pretty bad
6 conatining 100 ml , smell OK now
1 , the last containing 130ml , at 88'C , not too bad now
will toss the first
smell the rest and see where it leads me ,
if the last smells OK may add it back to the wash to be sure
a bit at a lose to know how to bring the temp down , we will see
I could not get the temperature below 82'C
Water temp in 25'C
Water temp out 30'C
most of the run between 82' and 83'
keep 7 lots of stuff
1 containing the first 50 ml , seems pretty bad
6 conatining 100 ml , smell OK now
1 , the last containing 130ml , at 88'C , not too bad now
will toss the first
smell the rest and see where it leads me ,
if the last smells OK may add it back to the wash to be sure
a bit at a lose to know how to bring the temp down , we will see
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hornedrhodent
- Rumrunner
- Posts: 732
- Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 1:42 am
- Location: Nth coast NSW
="Rod"
I could not get the temperature below 82'C ........................a bit at a lose to know how to bring the temp down , we will see
You dont control the temperature - You might control the heat input but the temperature depends on your wash and the reflux ratio.
Forget about controlling temp - just use it to tell you where you are in the distillation process.
Run your still a few more times and just record the temperature and use your records to decide what to do with future runs.
horndrhodent
I was using 4 litres of water per minute in my super reflux still to keep the temperate down in a n effort to get cleaner spirit
This is about 10 times the recommended flow rate
This run took nearly 3 hours for a 4 litre wash , nearly 3 times my previous runs
The spirit was dropping at about 1 drop every second max , sometimes a little slower
are you saying run the water at 400ml per minute as recommended and see how the temperature goes , this is what I did on the last few batches .
will it effect the quality of my spirit , assuming I toss the first 50 ml and stop at the right point , previously when the temp started to climb from 82'C , assuming the same water flow
I was using 4 litres of water per minute in my super reflux still to keep the temperate down in a n effort to get cleaner spirit
This is about 10 times the recommended flow rate
This run took nearly 3 hours for a 4 litre wash , nearly 3 times my previous runs
The spirit was dropping at about 1 drop every second max , sometimes a little slower
are you saying run the water at 400ml per minute as recommended and see how the temperature goes , this is what I did on the last few batches .
will it effect the quality of my spirit , assuming I toss the first 50 ml and stop at the right point , previously when the temp started to climb from 82'C , assuming the same water flow
Coopsoz,
did the 5 litre run several times and collected 9 small jars
#1 the first 50 ml --- now know why it is best to chuck
#2 to #6 very little difference
#7 maybe a hint of a fruity nature
#8 (50 ml) a bit odd , but not sure
#9 (50ml) getting worse
would be nice to get a second opinion on #8 and #9
#8 and #9 , these had a few little clear beads ( like glass) which bounced
around and this dissolved into the rest as though they were not miscible
a good experience
thinking , as a result of the trial
toss the first 50ml
collect the next 600 ml and polish with charcoal
toss the rest
simple as
did the 5 litre run several times and collected 9 small jars
#1 the first 50 ml --- now know why it is best to chuck
#2 to #6 very little difference
#7 maybe a hint of a fruity nature
#8 (50 ml) a bit odd , but not sure
#9 (50ml) getting worse
would be nice to get a second opinion on #8 and #9
#8 and #9 , these had a few little clear beads ( like glass) which bounced
around and this dissolved into the rest as though they were not miscible
a good experience
thinking , as a result of the trial
toss the first 50ml
collect the next 600 ml and polish with charcoal
toss the rest
simple as
-
hornedrhodent
- Rumrunner
- Posts: 732
- Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 1:42 am
- Location: Nth coast NSW
="Rod"
assuming I toss the first 50 ml and stop at the right point , previously when the temp started to climb from 82'C , assuming the same water flow
Do What you've been doing - but keep collecting until you've got got the lot . After you've collected the good stuff just keep collecting the tails until you reckon you're spending too much on fuel for what you're collecting. Put the tails back into your next run or put it on charcoal before redistilling.