Tips for sealing boiler lid
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Tips for sealing boiler lid
Hi, I would post a pic but I am blog retarded and can't figure out how. Anyway I'll see if I can explain:
I just read some horror stories about vapour leakage from stills and I realised that I have a serious issue with vapour leakage from my boiler. My boiler is a 20L stock pot similar to the one in the url below, with an electric element stuck in it and a column jutting out the top.
http://www.dvorsons.com/Sitram/StockPot.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Basically the lid got slightly bent when I was drilling holes in it and doesn't sit properly on the body of the pot. I have tried to minimise vapour leakage by putting a rubber type tube in between the lid and bottom and clamping the lid down with alligator clips (like the clip on a clipboard). Anyway some vapour still leaks out and I am trying to figure out a more permanent solution.
I still want to be able to remove the lid so I can clean the thing too, otherwise I would just glue it or something.
Any ideas or suggestions? would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers[/img]
I just read some horror stories about vapour leakage from stills and I realised that I have a serious issue with vapour leakage from my boiler. My boiler is a 20L stock pot similar to the one in the url below, with an electric element stuck in it and a column jutting out the top.
http://www.dvorsons.com/Sitram/StockPot.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Basically the lid got slightly bent when I was drilling holes in it and doesn't sit properly on the body of the pot. I have tried to minimise vapour leakage by putting a rubber type tube in between the lid and bottom and clamping the lid down with alligator clips (like the clip on a clipboard). Anyway some vapour still leaks out and I am trying to figure out a more permanent solution.
I still want to be able to remove the lid so I can clean the thing too, otherwise I would just glue it or something.
Any ideas or suggestions? would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers[/img]
The truest mark of greatness is insatiability
Use flour and water and make yourself some dough. Roll it out and use it like putty. Or you can use more water and use it like a paste. (or both).
I use rye flour myself to seal up an residual vapor leaks or to use on joints/joins.
If it's bent up so bad you can't stop leaks with clips and dough, then you probably need to do some some more work on that lid to get the bigger gaps closed. Some people use heavier pans (like frying pans) for lids. Some put weights on it in addition to the clips, etc.. Solution is as wide as your imagination. Most people 'round here don't care much for using plastics/rubber, or anything but stainless and copper in the vapor path.
You might try different clips too (and more of them) as well. More smaller clips, opening wider...will usually have more "grip" than fewer larger clip that barely opens.
I use rye flour myself to seal up an residual vapor leaks or to use on joints/joins.
If it's bent up so bad you can't stop leaks with clips and dough, then you probably need to do some some more work on that lid to get the bigger gaps closed. Some people use heavier pans (like frying pans) for lids. Some put weights on it in addition to the clips, etc.. Solution is as wide as your imagination. Most people 'round here don't care much for using plastics/rubber, or anything but stainless and copper in the vapor path.
You might try different clips too (and more of them) as well. More smaller clips, opening wider...will usually have more "grip" than fewer larger clip that barely opens.
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- Master of Distillation
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Good heavy duty clamps can be made for nothing using PVC pipe.
Cut the pipe into slices about inch.
Cut a slit across each piece of pipe.
You now have a good spring clamp.
You can regulate the tension by using different grades of pipe. A bit of 90mm pressure (class 20 or so) pipe has enough grip that you wouldn't leave it on your finger. In contrast, use a bit of 50mm stormwater pipe for a nice gentle grip...
Cut the pipe into slices about inch.
Cut a slit across each piece of pipe.
You now have a good spring clamp.
You can regulate the tension by using different grades of pipe. A bit of 90mm pressure (class 20 or so) pipe has enough grip that you wouldn't leave it on your finger. In contrast, use a bit of 50mm stormwater pipe for a nice gentle grip...
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- Novice
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Wheat flour is what most of us use (well sounds like it anyway). If applied before you begin to heat up it will dry by the time you reach a boil. The out side of the dough goes hard and crusty while the inside layer does get soggy. Works a charm!
edit: the only time this didn't work was when I tried to be conservative and used some leftover pie dough... This had some butter in it and didn't stick at all...The oil was a pain to remove too . so if your recycling make sure it's oil free,
edit: the only time this didn't work was when I tried to be conservative and used some leftover pie dough... This had some butter in it and didn't stick at all...The oil was a pain to remove too . so if your recycling make sure it's oil free,
Wheat, Rye, doesn't really matter. I find the coarser the grain, the more heavy duty it is . That rye paste is like cement. It doesn't really matter which you use.
Can't take credit for idea though. I think that was gooseye that first mentioned it. At least, thats were I first recall seeing it. Using flour "paste" is the traditional way to seal an alembic where the onion joins the pot. It's also used to seal up any residual leaks at unions, etc.,
Can't take credit for idea though. I think that was gooseye that first mentioned it. At least, thats were I first recall seeing it. Using flour "paste" is the traditional way to seal an alembic where the onion joins the pot. It's also used to seal up any residual leaks at unions, etc.,
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