Keg valve removal

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QDanT
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Keg valve removal

Post by QDanT »

Hi to all from Danny in Yorkshire England I'm gathering parts and have come to my first problem.I've just scored a 50 ltr. stainless keg, using search for valve removal comes up with :-
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:37 pm Post subject: Removing Sankey keg valves...
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... light=kegs
this is for a "D" system I found this at:-
http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-bee ... s#couplers" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Mine is the "S" system anyone know how it comes out ? The centre is a spring loaded flat rather than a ball and the flange it presses up against is also spring loaded---anyone see this type ?

To let you know where I'm up to:- I've decided to build a 54mm dia. copper tube offset valved reflux on a 50ltr stainless steel keg and use propan as a heat source.A trip to the local plumbers merchants last Friday found 54mm copper pipe at £33:75 per meter. 1 meter off a 3 meter pipe being the smallest length that they'd sell.That was fine by me then I asked about fittings i.e. x2 "t's" and x2 end caps BLOODY HELL ! the "t's" are £69:68 each and the end caps are £36:75 each.As a rough guide just double these to get US $. So I only bought a meter of 54mm and one of 28mm and 5mtrs of 1/4" copper tube.My idea is to instead of joining the offset condenser to the column via x2 "t's" I'll drill 28mm holes and silver solder a piece of 28mm between and instead of end caps I'll cut length ways and flatten a piece of pipe cut out a say 60mm circle cut in 3mm tabs and bend these up to make my own caps.I've had to send of for some cadmium free silver solder and flux and brass 1/4"valves so am waiting on the post.Thanks all for your time ----cheers Danny
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Pikluk
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Post by Pikluk »

Bokakob slanted plate"mini-still" work on the same principal as a offset
and a lot cheaper to build.
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QDanT
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Post by QDanT »

With all the reading I've been doing waiting for the post I'm sure it is and I'll no doubt be building one as well, but I still have to get the keg valve out :?
Without brute force because if it's threded the column can go back ontop of it.
cheers all Danny
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absinthe
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Post by absinthe »

just buy looking at the pic you linked too it looks like a ring clip much the same as the "D" system in how the valve is held in place...

although i have found it much faster and easy to get the valve out by drilling a small hole into the end of the clip so i can leaver it out that way...

the Aussie ones don't have to little square bit on the end of the clip so its a real bastard to get the point of the screw driver under it.. i

m not sure about the clips on the UK ones..
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HookLine
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Post by HookLine »

absinthe wrote:although i have found it much faster and easy to get the valve out by drilling a small hole into the end of the clip so i can leaver it out that way...
Much easier to do it that way.
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wineo
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Post by wineo »

If its a S type,its threaded,and unscrews out.I have a heinikin S type and it unscrews out but I had to heat it up to get it started.Theres a gasket in there that is probably stuck to the keg neck,and until I heated it with a torch,it wouldnt break free.
QDanT
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valve 1 - unscrewers 0

Post by QDanT »

well after a couple of hours messing about with picks, probes, screwdrivers, drills, pliers, hammer and chisel and a blow lamp I gave up :oops: and cut it out with a 4" angle grinder so I guess I'm going the bowl route. A copper one would be nice after seeing Uncle Remus's "Layla" thats just some eyecandy.
cheers all Danny
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showrguy
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Post by showrguy »

well atleast you'll be able to get in there and clean it easier,
see, it's not all bad !!!!!!!!!!
VolcomStone54
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Re: Keg valve removal

Post by VolcomStone54 »

Hello Guys,'

Thanks for the information that ive read .
BTW im a new one in this forum.thanks for sharing ideas about this topic.
God Bless.


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ScottishBoy
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Re: Keg valve removal

Post by ScottishBoy »

VolcomStone54 wrote:Hello Guys,'

Thanks for the information that ive read .
BTW im a new one in this forum.thanks for sharing ideas about this topic.
God Bless.


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Drop by the newcomer's area and introduce yourself. We love company.
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Samohon
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Re: Keg valve removal

Post by Samohon »

Welcome to HD QDanT... :D

There are some great still designs here, the Bokakob... is a classic.... :D No fittings are required, but I would purchase a 54mm couplar, just makes the head easy to remove...
My column is 1500mm High, before the head, so purchasing 2 Meters would give you a great still, with a liitle left over for the future...

Rule of Thumb:
Column hieght is usually 24 X Diameter. So in your case 24 x 54 = 1296mm + 350mm for Bokakob head = 1646mm
Buy the 2 Meters @ 54mm, you will get good output, 1.8L - 2.0L per hour...

Type S Valve...
I'm in Scotland and had a problem removing the valve from a Belhaven Best 50L keg which was an S system...
If I remember right, after de-pressurising, the lugs were turned anti-Clock Wise and the valve could be unscrewed.
But there is a safety feature built into the valve that does not allow it to come out under pressure, even after unscrewing....
What you must do is locate the dot on top of the valve, not the keg. Insert a long heavy screwdriver to depress the SS lugs and lift out...
This worked for the S system and should work for yours too...

Hope this helps... Stop by the Welcome center and introduce yourself, there some great gurus and mentors here... :D

Have fun and stay safe man... :D
♦♦ Samohon ♦♦

Beginners should visit The New Distillers Reading Lounge and the Safety and Related Issues among others...
stone76567
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Re: Keg valve removal

Post by stone76567 »

hi everyonre..
btw this is my first visit in this site..
and i want to join in this site..
please accept me cause i wanna learn more in this site..
thanks a lot and God Bless..

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blanikdog
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Re: Keg valve removal

Post by blanikdog »

Welcome stone. Drop by the welcome centre and introduce yourself. We love company.
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