liebig condenser question

[nlantz]

well i threw together my 1st potstill just to see what it could do for a stripping run
threw is the correct word for it just used a 45 deg fitting and bout 6ft of inch and a half copper pipe and a cold towel for a makeshift liebig flour paste for every seal on it stuff works good
ended out with 160 proof
and a good bit of steam
ran my ass off trying to keep a cold towl on there tho
but my question is
all i can get around here is 1.5 inch copper
anyone know if i use 2inch pvc for the outside of a liebig in place of my "towel" method or 2inch copper witch i cannot get
would it withstand the heat comming off that pipe ? or because its properly cooling should do ok ?
the pvc aint comming in contact with anything but cooling water
so i asume its fine to use there other then some kinda heat warpage deal

im planning on slideing my inch and a half copper into 2 pvc reducers and a length of 2inch pvc
think it would melt at the stock pot end ?
and i intend to solder it all togeather inplace of my flour seals
tho they do work awsome

[HookLine]

Heat shouldn't be a problem, as rigid PVC is designed for use with hot water, which is a higher temp than we are running. Check the PVC temp specs with the supplier.

The problem is sealing up the rigid PVC against the inside copper pipe. Silicone might do it, just clean the surfaces real well first. You could also use a 2" piece of rubber or clear plastic hose and hose clamps. Just make sure it can cope with boiling water temps.

1.5" is getting a bit big for the internal tube of a Liebig condenser. Probably would help if you stuffed a copper or stainless steel pot scrubber or two up it.

[dixiedrifter]

Go to the hardware store and get some 3/4" and 1" copper.

I prefer to use a special reduction tee fitting... I think pex plumbing supply has them.

Anyways, look for a 1"x3/4"x 1/2" tee. Copper tees are measured from the bull to the run meaning one end is 1", the other end is 3/4", and the side is 1/2".

Then all you gotta do is cut your 3/4" pipe at 3 feet or so, make your outer jacket so that it has a total length of about 3-4" or so on the ends and solder it up. Much easier to solder up than trying to rig up reducers inside of a tee.

Once you get your liebig soldered, then put in the 1/2" take off lines and use a female MPT adapter on the end.

Then you can go to US plastics website and order some special quick disconnect fittings and 90º elbow inserts and your ready to rock and roll.

Should set you back about $100USD for everything.

[nlantz]

i acculy do have a fue copper scrubbers up in there
and i planned on useing gorilla glue for the tricky copper to pvc connection
it expands as it drys out so should make for a nice and tight fit
and 1.5" acculy didnt do to bad useing a wet towl
i should allso add its about 6 ft long to reach from the stove to my kitchen table

and the price of copper is to pricy here all i can get is 12ft
so spending another 100 on copper is the wife freaking out on me im at least gonna try the way cheeper way 1st
thanks guys

[LONEEAGLE155]

I use pvc for my condenser and it works great it does like to develop a leak at 1 joint every now an then but i m sure it just because of my assembly as the other joint has never leaked

[mikeac]

I have a PVC condenser and it leaks on one end no matter what I use to glue it. The problem is the copper heats and expands, when I heard this I though "A little wider shouldn't make a huge difference." However it also increases in length, a good centimeter or two. I can tell because I used JB weld and it cracked, half stays on the PVC, the other half gets pushed up the copper pipe. This is okay for me because I have my condenser set up so that there is very little watter at the top end and I have a pot to catch the few drips.

[LONEEAGLE155]

mike thanks alot that makes sense with it expanding never thought of it doing that before saves me me a headache I can quit trying to come up with a method of sealing it that works

[mikeac]

Yup I tried gaskets, then silicon then JB weld let me see what was going on, use copper or deal with leaks. I can deal untill I get more funds approved

[QDanT]

Yup I tried gaskets, then silicon then JB weld let me see what was going on, use copper or deal with leaks. I can deal untill I get more funds approved

Why don't you take up stamp collecting instead ?

[Hawke]

How about using one of the rubber reducers they sell at Home Depot/Lowes. Usually in the sewer section.

[shadylane]

A freind of mine uses a liebic made of copper tubing with a PVC water jacket. He has two rubber corks that have two holes in them for the copper pipe and the inlet and exhause for the cooling water. It works very well with no leaks. I've used two 6 foot long parallel copper pipes soldered together, one for the vapor and the other for the cooling water. It worked, but was kind of ugly.