UJSM Vs. Mashing

Production methods from starch to sugars.

Moderator: Site Moderator

punkin
Master of Distillation
Posts: 2711
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:36 pm
Location: Northern NSW Oz Trail Ya

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by punkin »

theholymackerel wrote:
punkin wrote:Amazing how a few little details can add up to a doubling of efficiency.

Excellent!

I'm happy to hear that mashin' is comin' together for ya.

Yes, i'll try the same grain/water ratio and cooking times with enzymes this time and see if i can translate my success
Dnderhead
Angel's Share
Angel's Share
Posts: 13666
Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:07 pm
Location: up north

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Dnderhead »

you cant expect much the first time .its a accumulative thing adds up over a number of times doing it. I tried it thanking why waste
whats left in the grain? but the rinse water was too "thin" to put in the fermenter . so just used it to cook the next mash
trthskr4
Distiller
Posts: 1324
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:55 pm
Location: South

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by trthskr4 »

Dnderhead wrote:you cant expect much the first time .its a accumulative thing adds up over a number of times doing it. I tried it thanking why waste
whats left in the grain? but the rinse water was too "thin" to put in the fermenter . so just used it to cook the next mash

And a brilliant plan it was Dnder.
15 gallon pot still, 2"x18" column with liebeg condensor on propane.
Modified Charles 803 w/ 50gal boiler, never ran so far.
I-GOR
Swill Maker
Posts: 170
Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 11:35 am
Location: Warshington State

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by I-GOR »

Punkin:

You did a lot of mashin' & makin' lately.

What seemed to turn out the best? What worked and what didn't as far as mashing, grain bill and final flavor?
Anything recommendations or recent recipes of yours that we've just gotta try?
And, is it worth it, in you opinion, to add that extra 10 lbs of white sugar to the mash?

I tried mashing feed corn and malt barley a couple times last winter, but couldn't get a good yield out of the mash.
Maybe the corn was poor quality.
I ended up blending the final corn distillate with some barley done ujsm style.
punkin
Master of Distillation
Posts: 2711
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:36 pm
Location: Northern NSW Oz Trail Ya

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by punkin »

I-GOR wrote:Punkin:

You did a lot of mashin' & makin' lately.

What seemed to turn out the best? What worked and what didn't as far as mashing, grain bill and final flavor?
Anything recommendations or recent recipes of yours that we've just gotta try?
And, is it worth it, in you opinion, to add that extra 10 lbs of white sugar to the mash?

I tried mashing feed corn and malt barley a couple times last winter, but couldn't get a good yield out of the mash.
Maybe the corn was poor quality.
I ended up blending the final corn distillate with some barley done ujsm style.
You did a lot of mashin' & makin' lately.
Yeah, i've done a bit lately...
What seemed to turn out the best? What worked and what didn't as far as mashing, grain bill and final flavor?
Anything recommendations or recent recipes of yours that we've just gotta try?
Yes, absolutely.
Corn with 20% malt is a very cler winner. Either as a UJSM or an allgrain, it's a very good drop.

I tried mashing feed corn and malt barley a couple times last winter, but couldn't get a good yield out of the mash.
Maybe the corn was poor quality.

Yeah. It's just like that. You don't get enough to share. :mrgreen:
jim81147
Bootlegger
Posts: 104
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 2:10 pm
Location: colorado

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by jim81147 »

Here is a fairly clear explaination of the ins and outs of cereal mashing . I hope this will help answer some of the questions . Its kind of wordy but has lots of good info.


Cereal Mash
By Mark Tumarkin

Perhaps more information than you need to know....

For those of you interested in brewing a CAP, or other styles of beer requiring a cereal mash, here are some recent HBD posts on the subject (two from Jeff Renner and one from Marc Sedam), and a counterpoint opinion from Alan McKay.


<editor's note>
The following is taken from the Homebrew Digest.
</editor's note>


* * * * * * * * * * * *

From: Jeff Renner
Subject: Re: Cornmeal

"John Misrahi" wrote:

>If I want to use corn meal in a mash , in place of brewers' flaked corn, do
>I need to cook it first?

Yes. The starches of corn and rice do not gelatinize and become
available to the amylase at mash temperatures the way raw barley,
wheat and rye do.

To cook, add about 30% malt ("premalt) (that's 30% of its weight, not
30% of the malt in the recipe), mash for 20-30 minutes at 153F or so,
then bring to a boil and cook for about 30 minutes for cornmeal or
broken rice, longer for grits or polenta. Then add to your main
mash, which you have already mashed in at a proper temperature to
accommodate the heat of the cereal mash for the next step.

Be sure to use plenty of water for the cereal mash, and adjust the
minerals as you would for the main mash. This means low alkalinity
for a pilsner. 1.5 quarts per pound is not too much. I mash in an 8
qt. pot in a preheated oven at mash temperature, then bring to a boil
and cook on the electric stove with a trivet or heat diffuser between
the element and the pot. This helps prevent scorching, but you still
need to stiff frequently until you establish a boil and can turn the
heat down to a simmer.

I just brewed a CAP yesterday for our daughter's wedding in August.
It was 95F outside and hotter in my garage with the burners going. I
used the mash schedule I have settled on - mash in at 145F, rest for
30-45 minutes while boiling the cereal mash, add the cereal mash,
which brings the combined mash to about 160F (you may need to add so
boiling water or heat), and rest another 30-45 minutes. This
produces a wort with high fermentability for a crisp pilsner.

Be sure to use degermed cornmeal, not whole corn meal, which has the
oily germ present.

Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943



* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 16:39:55 -0400
From: Jeff Renner
Subject: cereal mash

Brewers

An HBD reader found that I didn't make cereal mash instructions clear
enough, and after my answers, felt that they were good enough that he
suggested that I post to the general readership. Here it is:

>Jeff - I did not understand the meaning of the following in your
>recent HBD post.
>
>>To cook, add about 30% malt ("premalt) (that's 30% of its weight, not
>>30% of the malt in the recipe)
>
>Would you please explain?

Ah, yes. This seems to often cause confusion. Here's the deal. For
my basic 8 gallon recipe, I use 11 lbs. of 6-row malt and 3 lbs. of
cornmeal. So, for the 3 lbs of corn meal, I use 30% malt, or 15
ounces, with the corn. Actually, I use a pound, but that's the idea.
The premalt helps keep the cornmeal from turning into a lump of
cornmeal mush. I mash it at ~153F, then boil for 30-40 minutes, then
add it to the main mash.

If this still isn't clear, fire away again.
- -------
>Jeff - Thanks for the speedy reply. I think I have it now: you add
>to the cornmeal an amount of malt equal to roughly 30 % of the
>weight of the cornmeal, and then mash the mixture before boiling it
>to gelatinize the cornmeal. But what is the purpose of mashing
>before cooking? Boiling will destroy the enzymes in the malt mixed
>with the cornmeal, but surely there are plenty in the main mash to
>do the job. So I would not expect the small mash to be the only way
>to convert those starches. But perhaps there is some benefit to
>holding the cornmeal at 153 degrees for a while?
>
> I have followed with interest the posts relating to CAP, and I
>look forward to doing one before the summer is over. But for right
>now, the next HBD gleaning to be put to good use will be beer can
>chicken on the fourth. The grill is ready, the fixings are on hand,
>and I'm hot to trot.
>
> Happy Fourth!


You've got the idea. This pre-mashing isn't to convert the starch in
the cornmeal for the yeast, it's for ease of handling the cereal
mash. For the most part, the starch isn't gelatinized - that's the
purpose of boiling. Most of the it is converted in the main mash by
the balance of the malt.

But there is some available starch in the cornmeal from starch bodies
that were damaged by the milling process, and this starch can make
the whole thing set up like stiff porridge. Mashing this before
boiling keeps it liquid. I've tried the process both with and
without the premalt, and the difference is remarkable. This is more
important in commercial scale brewing where the cereal mash has to be
pumped. I suspect there is also some breakdown of protein in the
premash, but I don't know. When this process was developed in the
1870s or 80s, it made a big difference in the handling of corn and
rice in beer and in the quality of the final beer.

Glad you are planning to brew a CAP - I have one fermenting now for
my daughter's wedding in August. I also have a Vienna mild (George
Fix's recipe with changes for modern malt) lagering, and will brew
ginger wit and a mild porter.

Have a great Fourth.

Jeff

- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner@comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943



* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 09:48:40 -0400
From: Marc Sedam
Subject: cereal mash

Time for my bi-annual description of starch gelatinization,
and why it's important to brewing. Jeff writes..

***You've got the idea. This pre-mashing isn't to convert
the starch in
the cornmeal for the yeast, it's for ease of handling the
cereal
mash. For the most part, the starch isn't gelatinized -
that's the
purpose of boiling. Most of the it is converted in the main
mash by
the balance of the malt.

But there is some available starch in the cornmeal from
starch bodies
that were damaged by the milling process, and this starch
can make
the whole thing set up like stiff porridge. Mashing this
before
boiling keeps it liquid. I've tried the process both with
and
without the premalt, and the difference is remarkable. This
is more
important in commercial scale brewing where the cereal mash
has to be
pumped. I suspect there is also some breakdown of protein
in the
premash, but I don't know. When this process was developed
in the
1870s or 80s, it made a big difference in the handling of
corn and
rice in beer and in the quality of the final beer.***


All starches created in cereal grains are contained in
microscopic packets called "starch granules." Think of a
starch granule as a tightly packed collection of long starch
molecules balled up. In order to access the starch inside
the granule, you have to provide three things: heat, water,
and shear (stirring). Providing a combination of these
three things will rupture/burst the starch granule and allow
the starch molecules inside to be available for whatever you
have in store for them. An analogy would be a water
balloon, where the starch is the water. The balloon
(granule) explodes and the water (starch) goes everywhere.
Same same.

Different starches have different "gelatinization
temperatures." Back in the day, I used to have all of these
different temps in my head. Now I can only remember that
corn is in the mid-70s (Celsius), wheat is in the 50s (why
you don't need to do a cereal mash with wheat, even if it's
unmalted), and rice is in the 70-80s. Barley starches are
already broken down during the malting process and are
available without having to do a cereal mash. Unmalted
barley should be treated just like any other adjunct. Do a
cereal mash unless it's in the flaked, rolled, or puffed
form.

OK. So why do you care? This all becomes important in the
cereal mash. Assume that we're going to make a delicious
Classic American Pilsner (CAP).

I use yellow corn grits as I live in the South and they are
very readily available. But the explanation will hold true
if you use polenta or even corn flour (if you had to). Add
your grits to the cold water (I use a 1:5 ratio) and start
heating. As you heat the grits/water mixture it will start
to thicken. This is because the starch granules are
starting to swell up as they take on water. The mixture
will get thicker and thicker. If you do not stir the grits
mixture it will turn into some kind of corn cement and burn
like mad. This would be bad. Again, without shear
(stirring) the granules won't break. So at some point with
regular stirring (usually around 70C) the mixture will all
the sudden get thinner. This is the point when the starch
granules have started to break down. They release the water
they took up and the starches, reducing the thickness
(viscosity) of the mixture. After this happens, the mixture
will stay a reasonable thickness UNTIL you remove it from
the heat.

Once you remove the mix from heat, the starch molecules will
automatically start to "retrograde," or curl up on
themselves. Starch is a long-chain polysaccharide, meaning
that it's made up of hundreds of sugar molecules connected
to each other. When starch in solution starts to cool, the
long chains start to crystallize (last I knew they actually
formed helices). They bind water and the mixture will be
akin to a corn brick. An interesting side note is that some
of the starch will crystallize so well that it is no longer
available for fermentation or digestion.

OK...back to brewing.

The addition of some barley malt significantly changes the
dynamic in the cereal mash. The barley malt has alpha- and
beta-amylases which are used to break down starches into
simple, fermentable sugars. So a few unique things happen
in the corn/barley/water mixture, which are very beneficial
to brewing with cereal grains.

1) There are proteases and some lipases in the barley malt
which will help break down fats and proteins in the corn
grits. But this is pretty insignificant.
2) As the grits are heated and the granules swell, they do
leach out some starch molecules. The barley enzymes will
break down these starches as soon as they escape the
granule. This keeps the viscosity (thickness) down.
3) The swollen granule is also susceptible to being
degraded via amylases. So many of the granules are being
broken down before they have a chance to burst. This
further decreases the viscosity of the mixture.
4) Finally, when the starch granules start to break *en
masse*, the amylases are there to break them down into the
fermentable sugars. Combined with #s 2 and 3, the overall
result is a very manageable cereal mash in terms of
thickness.
5) Whatever starch granules the barley malt cannot degrade
before the heat denatures its enzymes is burst during the
long boiling of the cereal mash.
6) Since the starches are well broken down they do not
retrograde when you add the boiling cereal mash back to the
much cooler main mash. Had the starches not been broken
down, you would get tiny clumps of unfermentable corn starch
in the mash. In one CAP I brewed, I didn't boil the cereals
long enough and wound up with lots of these clumps, as well
as a lot of starch haze in the ferment.


So I've taken several hundred words to come to this
conclusion: Do what Jeff says. It works great.

Cheers!
Marc

- --

Marc Sedam
Chapel Hill, NC
"From the land of the free, yet home of a 6%abv limit on
beer."
GreenEarth
Novice
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:52 pm
Location: USA

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by GreenEarth »

WhiteLightnin, I can recommend a book, 'The Complete Joy of Home Brewing by Charlie Papazian. It's a brewing book but it has an excellent section on mashing complete with infusion guideline charts. It was my tutorial for brewing and worth a read. All the mashing techniques are directly transferable.
That is a great book! I have used it for many years and learned most of my mashing techniques from it I highly recommend it myself.
For A Better Earth, Or A Better Buzz!
Usge
retired
Posts: 3243
Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:22 am

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Usge »

Just an update to this (and my Thirsty Mash thread). I got a fresh sack of corn and have been working on getting the mashing procedure down. Just doing it week after week has helped me not only understand the process better, but to refine the logistics of everything in my space to make everything go a little smoother and easier—although its still a lot of work.

The best results I've gotten so far have been using Dnders original recipe "twice", and saving and reusing sparge water. That's 3 lbs cracked corn run through the barley crusher for a finer grind, 1 lb pale 2-row malt, and approximately 3 gallons of water....bring to boil, boil corn for 1-1.5 hours, cover and let steep for 1-2 hours, bring back up to boil, then let cool to 152F and stir in malt. After conversion, drain liquid off into fermenter (got 10L). Then, sparge off 3 gallons of water through the spent corn into a bucket. After the sparge, the corn is cool enough to handle, and I empty the pot by scooping out the spent corn by hand into a paint bucket lined with a trashbag.

2nd cook: I pour the sparged/starchy water back into the pot and fire it up again. Bring to boil, and toss in 2nd batch of corn (3lbs), follow the same procedure as above. Only, by this time, it's usually getting on into evening and after tossing in the malt, I usually let it sit for a few hours while I go to dinner. Drain off another 10L into the fermenter (which now has 20L). Sparge off about 4 gallons of starchy water from spent grain in the pot into a paint bucket and seal it with a vacum lid and save (this will be my starting water for next weeks run). By this time, the fermenter is ready to go, cool enough, and I tossed in some lees that I saved out of the bottom of the fermenter from previous batch in a mason jar in the fridge. I just put it out towards the end and let it warm up to room temp. Then, toss contents of it in the fermenter.

Some general observations: I use very slightly more than 3 gallons of water. It's just a logistical thing with my brew pot. The thermometer on my brew pot seems to be randomly accurate on every run. I got better results using a probe or digital therm measured "after" stirring real good. I found that if you wait till 152F before you put the malt in, it will cool "very" quickly to below that. I start to put my malt in about 156-158 and by the time I stir it in good....it's usually right at or near 152F. Reusing sparged water works really well to gain some efficiency. I usually mash once a week...so the saved sparge water sat a week in the covered paint bucket. When I opened it, it smelled fine, but had mushroom shapped fuzz things floating on the top. I just scooped them off...and tossed the water in the pot, and brought it up to boil (which killed whatever else was left). I sterilized the bucket and lid..so maybe this won't happen quite as quickly next time. I'm also going to use some backset mixed in with the sparged water to lower the PH..that should help some too. Pre-soaking the corn was a good thing. Last time I used water. Next time I'm going to use some sparge water and backset mix. I constantly forget to vigorously stir/rouse the wort before adding the lees/yeast to it. It's pretty thin on oxygen after having been boiled twice. But, fortunately so far, the bit of splashing that happens pouring it off helped enough to get it started ok.

Lastly, letting this cool on it's own...takes quite a long time. It also could lead to some bacteria issues, although since loosing the PVC hoses and cleaning everything good, I've had less of a problem with it. I plan on taking Punkin's advice and picking up a basic wort chiller (or making one) of some sort or the other to speed up the cool down times. It's long enough day cooking/steeping twice. At some point, after I get this one down a little better, I may try to do a single run again on 6 gal/6lbs/2lbs to see what kind of results I get. My guess is, because of the sparging process and resuing the water, the double tap method is probably going to give better results....it just takes a lot longer. Oh, and btw, be carefully giving hints for this kind of stuff to your spouse for gifts. When I told my wife I'd like a wort chiller...she said...I didn't know you had any warts? You never know what you are going to get.
punkin
Master of Distillation
Posts: 2711
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:36 pm
Location: Northern NSW Oz Trail Ya

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by punkin »

Good info, can i say i made my wort chiller by getting five or six coils of half inch annealled copper pipe from the roll it comes in, tightening the coils a bit and bending each end up to a slow 90 degrees about a foot long?
Garden hose slips right over the end and a couplea hose clamps make sure it won't come off.

Very basic, but very cheap too. My 12v 360gph bilge pump from my cooling water runs it beautifully. :wink:
CoopsOz
Distiller
Posts: 1172
Joined: Wed Aug 16, 2006 4:00 am
Location: Didjabringyabongalong

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by CoopsOz »

Punkin, I'm sick of screwing this up......the amount of work it requires for zero return (plus the subsequent clean up) is pissing me off, is this comment still accurate?
First mash was 3kg corn/24 litre boiling water brought to the boil for 20 mins, shut off while i did a small spirit run of last weeks corn/tritcale. 2 hours later i brought it back up and boiled it with 4litres backset from the corn/trit run. Cooled to 67C and added 2kg malt barley.
Did you soak the corn prior to introducing it to your boiler? Is the mashing water boiling prior to adding the corn? Cheers mate.
It is most absurdly said, in popular language, of any man, that he is disguised in liquor; for, on the contrary, most men are disguised by sobriety. ~Thomas de Quincy, Confessions of an English Opium-Eater, 1856
Usge
retired
Posts: 3243
Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:22 am

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Usge »

Punkin, I usually end up spending more time and money trying to make things than I could if I just bought it already made. But, that sounds pretty dang simple to just make a wort chiller. Might give it a try. (if the wifey gets me something to freeze my warts off with).
decoy
Rumrunner
Posts: 676
Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 4:21 pm

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by decoy »

can some one explain to me why you want to use a wart chiller when distilling..

when i made my all grain bil of corn and malted barley 50L..

i simmerd the corn in in a large pot, approx 20L, it didnt look like much..

but as it cooked it started turning into poridge, and it grew to 3 or 4 large pots, this was a mess and the main thing that pissed me off, you need a very large cooking pot, preferably the capacity you intend to ferment.

my second problem was keeping the wart hot enough, probly because i had it in so many pots, i used a large esky or cooler with 35L capacity.
by the time it was transferd to the esky it was about 70c already, once in the esky it i pitched the malted barley and gave it a stir, prety much in minutes right before my eyes it started converting the thick glugy paste into sweet tasting liquid.

i let that sit for about 2 hours.. the esky held the temp with the lid closed, after 2 hours it droped to just under 60c

the esky has a drain bung on the bottom, i placed a screen over it and drained the liquid off..

i then added another 20L of hot water stired it up and let it sit for a bit then drained it off again.

when it droped to 25c i pitched the yeast, after about 6 hours it was bubbeing happily.

did a pot stripping run, then distilled second time doing cuts.

it yielded about 7.5L at 65%

i flavourd it with oak and some sultanas.

i sent punkin a sample..
Usge
retired
Posts: 3243
Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:22 am

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Usge »

decoy wrote:can some one explain to me why you want to use a wart chiller when distilling..

..
"wort" chiller. So you don't have to wait 1.5-2 hours for your mash to cool to mashing temp from a boil. And so you don't have to wait several hours for your wort to cool to yeast pitching temps on its own. Other than saving time, it also tends to prevent bacterial infections from leaving your mash or wort exposed to open air for that long to cool. Quick chilling helps when I'm doing 2 boil/steep/boil/mash in one day. My brew pot is plenty big to handle the full load in one shot, but it didn't have near as good efficiency when I tried it that way the first few times. Doing the double tap with sparged water has worked best for me up to this point (the drawback being the time it takes to do 2 of these instead of one).
Dnderhead
Angel's Share
Angel's Share
Posts: 13666
Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:07 pm
Location: up north

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Dnderhead »

Depends on the fermenter I useing at the time. I can do in one cook and save the sparge water for the next cook . I just pore into
into a closed sterile container "hot" and cap .it just sets a week or so. I do this on ferments that I repeat over and over.if using larger fermenter
I have to do multiple cooks.when you git over a certain size pot they tend to git expensive. also working on motor to stir with but have not perfected
it yet.tried "paddles" but thanking more in line of the shape of the "paddle" in a ice cream maker. also found that a ring to keep the pot away
from the flame helps keep it from burning. The ring hold the heat but the flame is not directly on the pot.
Last edited by Dnderhead on Mon Nov 24, 2008 5:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
muckanic
Swill Maker
Posts: 433
Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 1:19 am
Location: Canberra

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by muckanic »

With a bit of creativity, a liebig condenser can be made to do double duty as a counterflow wort chiller. It would most likely however take multiple runs to drop the temp from boiling to ferment. I'm inclined to just let the cool night air do its thing, combined with a vigorous yeast starter. Brewers (especially lager brewers) get a bit more fussy about chilling on the grounds of crashing protein out of solution, and also in order to reduce DMS levels.
decoy
Rumrunner
Posts: 676
Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 4:21 pm

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by decoy »

i figured it was just a time saver thing..
as i said my problem was keeping the heat up, it seemed to cool very quickly..

and i agree Dndrhead you need a BIG POT, otherwise its messy..
Usge
retired
Posts: 3243
Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:22 am

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Usge »

I bought the mashtun version of the heavy-duty 8 gallon pot from morebeer (comes with a pot therm, false bottom screen, stainless ballvalve with stainless nipple). It was about 259.00...and save for the therm (which is pretty useless really...use a good probe that you can move around), its been the best money I've spent in a while. Sure makes things easier, and that tri-clad bottom, along with the screen, keeps things from burning/sticking. To me, it's been well worth the money. They sell them in all configurations (just the pot, pot with ss ballvalve, etc.) and they put them on sale from time to time (check their "deal for the day" often).

I use indirect heat too—a cast iron grate. It sits on top of my stove/gas range across 2 of the existing eye grates (ie one side of the stove top). I think it was called a "tuscan grill"...about 28 bucks, came with little stubby screw on legs..I just took them off. I use one eye of my gas range to heat the grate..which not only provides a 15 x 15inch stable platform, but spreads the heat evenly across the bottom of the pot. It doesn't respond quite as quickly as direct flame, but it seems to work well, provides even indirect heat and a stable platform to set your BOP on. One caution though...they tend to kick up quite a bit of heat on their own.

I'm gonna do another 2 step run....which seems to be working pretty good..and go back and try a full run with what I've learned. As I recall...I had just enough room in my 8 Gal pot to handle the whole thing. Another thing I've noticed is...6 lbs of dried out corn..is a lot more volume than 6 lbs of fresh corn. So, that makes a difference too.
Usge
retired
Posts: 3243
Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:22 am

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Usge »

Another quick ferment. Seems I now have the bacterial issue under control. This last mash fermented all the way out and smells great. I'm stripping it off now. Will use backset to soak 6lbs of corn overnight. Then, gonna try a full single mash tomorrow (ie..6lbs corn/2lbs malt/6 gallons of water (5 gallons of it left over from previous cooks sparge).
Usge
retired
Posts: 3243
Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:22 am

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Usge »

Ok. Finished the strip run of previous. Yield is still about 1/2 what the UJSM is (got back about 1/2 gallon out of 5 gallons of mash) but the SG is rising slowly each time due to using sparged water to start next batch. Given my UJSM wash is normally around 10%...that puts my current efforts somewhere around 5%. That's up from 3% I got initially when I started.

Did a single 6 gallon run in my 8 gallon mashtun pot. It didn't work nearly as well logistically as splitting it up into two 3gal. There are a few reasons why.

1) Even though it all fit in the pot, and it cooked/boiled without burning, etc., there is too much grain in the pot at the end and it won't drain off cleanly when you are done. You'd need at least a 10 gallon version of this pot to be able to do this—and probably need to be outside to make it work easier. When the corn is well dispersed, it leaves yellow, thick, globby proteins behind that clogs the bottom of the screen as well as in between grains...as well as getting into the bottom under the screen. Its completely manageable when I did the 3 gal run, but at 6...I ended up with water on the top, the bottom clogged under the screen and no way to drain it off. So, you have to pick it up, tilt it, and shake it...and stick your hands down in it, etc., which brings me to the next part.

2) It's HEAVY with a full load of grain and liquid in it. Tossing around the 1/2 full pot was "doable". But, the best I could do was to tilt the pot which wasn't enough to dislodge the thick goo from the drain. Even scooping the grain by hand...it would just settle back in and clog everything back up again. Even after clearing the drain...it would not sparge off...it just pooled on the top. It wasn't until I had scooped out some of the grain that it finally opened up. So, obviously, lesson here is...just because it "fits" in the pot...doesn't necessarily mean it's going to work..or work well. In the end...I'd say 1/2 capacity of the pot you are using to a little over that is probably about right. 3/4 was too much.

3) Soaking the grains in backset didn't work out so well. It turned to clumps/glue. And I had to scoop and drop it in by hand (into boiling water....ouch). Then I had to break it up with the spoon. I'm not really sure how much difference, if any...it made to pre-soak the corn as opposed to sliding it all in dry right when the water is rolling. I think the addition of backset is a good thing for PH..and flavor. I may just add that to the water...and keep dumping the corn in dry at the boil. The other option is to use part of your recipe liquid amount and completely cover the corn to soak it..so basically, you "pour" the corn in when your pot gets to the boil. The problem with that is...it drops the temp of the water so much..you loose your boil, and it will clump on you. More experimentation needed here for sure.

4) It didn't save time, it just made everything more difficult to deal with. The 3 gal recipe I've doing works pretty easily in my space/pot. But, if you include heating up, cooking, steeping time, then heating up time, then cooling to mashing temp, mashing time, etc., then multiply that by 2....well, you get the idea. I thought by doing "1" 6 gallon run...it would save considerable time . It didn't really. Because at 6 gallons with the corn..my pot is 3/4 full and it takes a LOT longer to heat up..and a LOT longer to cool down. A wort chiller would not be possible with the 6 gallon..as there would not be enough room. In the end...there wasn't a whole lot of time saved and it felt like a lot more work.

5) I got back about 4L "less" mash using the same amounts trying to cook it all at once. Mostly, I think that is because of it simply not draining off as well. But, for cooking indoors on a 8 gallon pot with screen bottom...trying to do 6 gallons (6lbs corn/2lbs malt) is too much.

6) it was hard to get a good SG reading because there was so much particulate in this mash. But, it was around 1.040 give or take. That's .010 better than it was when I first started doing this recipe (started at 1.030) I attribute that mostly to reusing the sparged water which seems to be working out well. (its getting thicker all the time).

7) Oh yea...Cargill cracked corn is better than "Producers Pride". It's cleaner and the crack is better on it. PP has a sawdust like quality to it. But, either way, Dnders method (cook/steep) will render out either one down to the carcass.

I'm still trying to work out the best/optimal set of procedures for "me" and my space/gear but I've definitley concluded that part of that will involve doing just 3-4 gals mash cook at a time. Cooking that way also is more manageable for my space in regards to mess, clean up, etc. ...it just takes longer to do it more often. I would also mention...that the way I dealt with my constant bacterial infection problems (smelly ferments) was to spend more time cleaning things and using bleach and water and just being a little more careful about things. Those plastic buckets tend to get scratches that are havens for bugs so I soak them in bleach and rinse with hot water and that seems to have taken care of it. Last ferments were nice and clean. But, I also plan on replacing the plastic stuff soon (it's cheap enough anyway).

So, next is to experiment with doing a 3 or 4 gallon mash...then filled to 5 gallons with sugar/water mix to see how a "thin-mash" might work. ie...how much trade off there is flavor/yield, etc. That would actually, logistically, be the best thing for me for many reasons: I have easy access to sugar (cheap), but not corn; it would involve only a single cook/clean up; I could improve my yield.
Dnderhead
Angel's Share
Angel's Share
Posts: 13666
Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:07 pm
Location: up north

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Dnderhead »

Thin mash is much easier to work with that's the way I started out , then worked my way up. If you do cooked grain/sugar do not
add sugar until after the cook, it has a tendency to burn the sugar. as far as draining off the wort .I'm in no hurry because I have
4 fermentors going at once and not pressed for time. most time I leave sitting over night.or even a day .whatever it takes to settle. (I also have the room etc so I can just shut off and leave in place, pitch malt /enzymes and leave sit)then I siphon off ,I have have never tried a screen. but one of those drains with a "bent tube" ? looks interesting.
Usge
retired
Posts: 3243
Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:22 am

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Usge »

The screens work great. But, it was just too much grain leftovers for it to handle at one time. It completely clogged everything..ie..it wasn't that it was draining slow...it was that it wasn't draining at all. And getting it unclogged involved a bit of wrestling. It wasn't just the screen that was clogged...the bottom was too, the spigot, the grain was all clumped together as well. Too much weight.

I just figured I'd make the 3-4 gallons of all-grain as usual, strain it off into the fermenter. Then fill the rest with water to 20L and add enough sugar to get the SG back up. I'll have to experiment to find a good method for that (ie...how much sugar...maybe save a little water to heat up to dissolve it first...maybe when I pour the wort off hot..just throw it in the fermenter and let the wort dissolve it ..then use cool water to cool everything down. Don't know yet. Once I get a system/process down and do it a few times...should get a bit easier and go a little smoother.

Anyway...have to give props and thanks to you Dnder for this method and the help along the way. Couldn't have done it without that for sure.
brewmaster
Novice
Posts: 31
Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:11 pm

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by brewmaster »

mikolo wrote:I have read all all thread from beginning and it seems like you are boiling you mash for very long (maybe I have just misunderstood something). Recently i became interested in way which Australian make their mash. This method is called brewing-in-a-bag (BIAB) and seems to be quiet attractive for beginners all grain brewers. I'm not expert at brewing (and even haven't tried this method), so here are some links which could be interesting:

http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/ ... &sk=t&sd=a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow - demonstration of BIAB with pictures and 12 pages of discussion
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... opic=11694" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow - forum discussion
and here are few links for homemalting (I don't now if there is any guide to malting on this forum, as I'm completely new to it). I have made few kilos of barley malt and rye, and I'm making wheat malt according to these guides.
Just wondering if anyone has tried the BIAB method for making whiskey yet? I have made many great all grain beers via the BIAB method and it's really easy. I was thinking trying the same method for making some whiskey. Making whiskey seems to be very similar to making all grain beer so I don't see why it would not work. The only real difference I can see is that when cooking the corn, the corn seems goes into a paste like substance and it might get stuck in the biab bag? When doing an all grain beer the grains don't stick together like that.
trthskr4
Distiller
Posts: 1324
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:55 pm
Location: South

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by trthskr4 »

Brewmaster, I'm not familiar with the BIAB method but if you try it just add say 20-25% of the malt in before cooking the mash and that'll keep it from getting pastey by converting some of the free starch on the way up to temp. That'll help keep the mash a little thinner while mashing.
15 gallon pot still, 2"x18" column with liebeg condensor on propane.
Modified Charles 803 w/ 50gal boiler, never ran so far.
brewmaster
Novice
Posts: 31
Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:11 pm

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by brewmaster »

trthskr4 wrote:Brewmaster, I'm not familiar with the BIAB method but if you try it just add say 20-25% of the malt in before cooking the mash and that'll keep it from getting pastey by converting some of the free starch on the way up to temp. That'll help keep the mash a little thinner while mashing.
Thanks trthskr4 I will have to give it a try. I have a question about boiling the malt though, isn't it true that boiling the malt would release tannins into the mash? Or is that mainly a beer problem and not a problem when making whiskey? Cheers
brewzz
Novice
Posts: 58
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 12:22 pm

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by brewzz »

I don't think tannins would be a problem when making whiskey..........
Cheers,Brewzz
trthskr4
Distiller
Posts: 1324
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:55 pm
Location: South

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by trthskr4 »

As Brewzz said, I don't think it would be a problem in whiskey as you'll be distilling it later unlike beer. Also the small amount you'll be boiling hasn't seemed to have any adverse taste effects on my mashes and am sure no one else who practices that has seen. If you will use 20% malt for the total batch of say 10lbs. corn that's 2 lbs. malt total, use half a pound while heating up the mash.
15 gallon pot still, 2"x18" column with liebeg condensor on propane.
Modified Charles 803 w/ 50gal boiler, never ran so far.
brewmaster
Novice
Posts: 31
Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:11 pm

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by brewmaster »

Thanks guys, I'm just about to start my first all grain whiskey.
This is some of my equipment-
50 litre keg with top removed for my boiler
4 ring gas burner
copper wort chiller
biab bag
25 litre fermeters

This is how I think i'm going to be doing it-

Put 35 litres hot water in boiler
Bring to 67 degrees Celsius
Add 500g pale ale malt grains
Bring temperature to 66 degrees Celsius
Leave for 30 mins
Bring to boil
Add 4kg cracked corn
Boil for 60 to 90 mins
Turn off gas
Add wort chiller to cool wort to 68 degrees Celsius
Add 1.5kg pale ale malt grains
Make sure temperature is 66 degrees Celsius
Leave for 1 to 2 hours at 66 degrees Celsius
Add wort chiller to cool wort to 35 degrees Celsius
Siphon wort to fermenter
Pitch yeast


Does that sound ok or am I missing something or doing anything wrong? Cheers
Dnderhead
Angel's Share
Angel's Share
Posts: 13666
Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:07 pm
Location: up north

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by Dnderhead »

Yes? not the way I do it. cook the corn ,this will take a while (about 45 mn) ( if you add a little malt at beginning of cook it wont git so thick) cool to 66c add malt /enzymes hold temp for 15-30 min or
( rap in blanket to holed heat) .(to check conversion use iodine)
If you boil the malt you will deactivate it. after cooking /converting you can siphon off or ferment on the grain.

warning! consumption of alcohol may cause you to tell the same boring story over and over.
kazanas
Novice
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2009 11:12 am

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by kazanas »

Hi everyone
A bit of silence around here
Any improvements to your projects????
captin-ahab
Novice
Posts: 31
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 2:12 pm
Location: illinois...USA

Re: UJSM Vs. Mashing

Post by captin-ahab »

Hello All....First post here on this forum.

I have done a few ujsm runs thru my old homemade 7 1/2 gallon potstill and decided I liked this hobby and wanted to get serious. I got my 30lt soldered alembic copper still in the mail a few days ago (not the eco model) and i want to do all grains thru it.....

side note yes the still did have green crap in it :roll: .... and i have not done a test yet to see if it leaked yet or done the cleaning run, but all in all im pretty impressed with it. I will drill my own hole a put a temp guage on it with some silver solder (i didnt like the 3 options they gave from the factory). also i gotta do some research and find a decent pump to run her......thats another post thou

its going to be a few months before i do a run so i want to spend all of my time learning the craft so i do it right the first time. I have read this post and thats about it in the feild of all grain. I did find this 8 part video on youtube doing an all grain beer run that made it kind of more understandable what you are doing (minus the hopps) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIGrsGPV ... re=channel. you guys should do a video of what your doing (mash aint illigal) to share with the rest of us. i would feel alot better if i watched someone else do it instead of trying to copy off of printed word



******dont send me anything thru this acount aint my email and i wont get it...use legend687@yahoo.com instead if you wanna reach me********
Post Reply