Good pot still plans

[muss]

Hi all

I'm new to distilling and have been searching around this site and the internet for a while now and am about to build a still.
I've been mashing and brewing beer and making fruit wines for a while now and would like to first make rums and whisky's from scratch, then have a go at neutral spirits, so I'd be looking at 2 stills.
I have a 50L beer keg and will be doing 25L washes. There will be loads of excess headspace.
I will make the SS bowl lid type attachments for the heads, that way I can use the same keg for both still heads.

I've been searching for pot still plans and have really only found posts discussing members new experimental designs and trying to get this and that better, trying different thumper and condenser setups etc, which is all good and I'd love to delve in to that information soon but what I'd like to start with is a plan for a tried and true pot still for rums and whiskies. Can someone please point me to a good solid plan?

I've found the valved reflux still plans at http://www.Moonshine-Still.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow like most others and have also read a number of posts stating that it's not very good, or at least could be better.
What I do like about it though is the detail of the plans. The entire build process has been documented so well and it's full of step by step instructions. I've read some posts about recommended modifications such as making the condenser 2" diameter instead of 3" and stuffing a pot scrubber in it, making a smaller capture reservoir, using only 1 needle valve and using a higher column, which I'll certainly do.
Has anyone made a plan of these mods with all the diameters etc in a document?


I also read someone's question asking if it could be used as a pot still by closing the reflux valve and removing the copper scrubbers in the column but I couldn't find an answer. It makes sense in my mind but I have no experience to back it up. The only flaw in that idea that I can see is that you'd get a little bit of reflux happening due to the long column. Could that be solved by cutting and flanging the column half way up, then using the full hight column for neutrals and half height for pot stilling?
If not that's ok, building things are fun.... Especially building things with fire



Thanks for your help, I'm looking forward to getting my hands dirty.

On another note I was pricing up the parts for the valved reflux still here in Auckland, New Zealand and man are they pricey and hard to get, due to copper plumbing being not that common anymore. General hardware places like Bunnings, Mitre 10 etc only had small amounts of the most common small diameter copper fittings.
I found half of what was needed at BW Herberts and other requireds parts at Chesters. Heatcraft is the only place I found that had 2" end caps.
The total for the various T's, nipples and caps was going to be over $200!
Apparently you can make a T from 2 pieces of straight pipe by cutting V's in them. My brain just can't comprehend how that works since they are round... But my Dad was a plumber for 20+ years so I'm not going to argue with him and will happily learn the copperwork skills from him.
So by using just stright pipe for the T's and nipples you can potentially save a few hundred dollars off the build cost. I'll post how it works out.

[Husker]

Welcome muss.

As you have seen, there is a small 'lack' of fully spec'd out still designs, in the 'step by step' manner. I am sure others will point you to links in short order. Edit, note the valved reflux you are looking at does work, I have one myself. But they cost WAY too much to build, and are pretty damn top heavy (and off center balanced). I wish I had built a different still head. Edit#2. There are some still design links in the 'new distiller FAQ' (sticky post in this new distiller forum). Give them a look.

I would like to comment about a couple other issues.

1. You mentioned cutting the keg and running a bowl. I have done that, and it works, and when it was all I had, I thought it was great. However, I now have several kegs uncut, and like them MUCH better. The ONLY reason I would see for cutting a keg, is if you are running something that you had to stir during heatup (such as a thick fruit mash, distilling on the grain, etc). The way to get this done, in a nice manner, is to make a 'home made' tri-clover fitting. There is a good link about doing just this: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9300

Now on mine, I made it from a 2" pipe about 3" long, and flaired the end, and built it up with solder. On the other end of that, I put a 2" slip connector, soldering the bottom of that (leaving the top open of course). Now, I can quickly mount that flange to a key valve, and slip in whatever tube I want. This brings me to item #2

#2 Building column and pot head. If you build a flange like that (with the up end being a 2" connector fitting), then you simply build still heads out of raw 2", leaving the bottom unmodified 2" tube. Then mount the flange, carefully slip on the proper head, put a little flour paste around it to seal, and fire up the still and the condenser. Easy as it gets (in my book at least).

Oh, almost forgot, welcome.

H.

[muss]

Thanks Husker

This type of keg and pot still head seems popular: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =16&t=7468

Have you seen a name or plan for it?

Do you know what the point is in the final bend just before the jacket condensor?

I like the idea of that clover flange!

[FeralPig]

Thanks Husker

This type of keg and pot still head seems popular: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =16&t=7468

Have you seen a name or plan for it?

Do you know what the point is in the final bend just before the jacket condensor?

I like the idea of that clover flange!

That is a good plan if you can get the parts and do the work. I did the bowl type plan you refer to and I would never do it again. I went to mile-high (http://www.milehidistilling.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow and purchased the parts to do an uncut keg still and like it much better. Just my opinion.

[Husker]

Thanks Husker

This type of keg and pot still head seems popular: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =16&t=7468

Have you seen a name or plan for it?

Do you know what the point is in the final bend just before the jacket condensor?

I like the idea of that clover flange!

ur welcome.

yes, that is a 'popular' pot head design. Simple short column, to a bend to a lebig condenser.

I think the 'bend' is so he could use that 90° and 45° angle, but to not have it pointing down 45°. Thus, it is only angling down about 10-15° or so. If it just went from that 90° to straight into a 45° pointed the same direction, it would point down 45°, and the lebig would have to be much shorter.

My pothead was similar to this. I took a 10" 2", into a 90°. Then I took a 3' 2" section, and cut out a triangle wedge out of it, and bent it into a 3' long tapered reducer. I have a 5/8" compression fitting on the end of that, which I attach to a 5/8" worm (I like old school worms vs a lebig, just a personal thing).

An since I have the flange, with the 2" connector open end, I can slip on a pot head or column and switch between them in a matter of seconds (after it cools a bit, lol).

I have found having a pot and a column is MUCH better than trying to make a single still head work like the other (having just a pothead and trying to make neutrals, or having just a column, and trying to make flavored drinks with it). When you have both, you can pick and choose, and use the still head made to make do what you are making.

H.

[Hawke]

Take a look at Punkin's VM/pot combo in the classified section.
Those two designs would serve you very well.

I also started with the valved reflux. Then quickly built an inline column.
After getting bored with neutrals, built a potstill, almost identical to the one in your link.
Mine will all attatch straight to an unmolested keg. Have not had any problems cleaning out the boiler.

[Mr.Spooky]

UNMOLESTED!!!! i like that . i too use a "unmolested" keg. to attach a column to a keg using only a simple 20$ clamp just seems like a simple, cheap, and versitile way to go. iv had no problems cleaning my boiler. justa rinse with the water hose, roll it around a few times, and its clean! there are a few threads on here that explains different ways of fabricating your columns that will allow you to use a tri clamp. i just heated up my 2" collumn, used the inside hole of a car weel as a "anvil" and beat out a round flange that fit the top of the keg. then a simple cork gasket (roll of gasket making material from auto shop). works like a charm. i dont have leaks. maby im just cheap.

[blanikdog]

I also have an 'unmolested' keg and after a couple of runs with just a good hosing out I do a clean by pouring in a bucket of sharp, smallish road gravel in with the water and rol it around for a few minutes. Comes out easily and the keg sparkles inside.

blanik

[FeralPig]

My keg is uncut. Not sure I can go so far as to say unmolested...

[trthskr4]

My keg is uncircumcised, it's been welded on, but I can honestly say that I have never molested it in any form or fashion.

[Hawke]

I have one of each, the cut keg with bowl is a pain in the arse to seal. (IMO) Also have one of Milehigh's milkcan boilers. That works well, but there is a slight issue of the bottom seam leaking on the milkcan. Overall the uncut keg is my preffered boiler to run. Need to do a 2x3 adaptor for my big Boka column soon.

[muss]

Thanks for your replies.

I'll go the tri-clamp fitting then since you all recommend it.
Yes that makes sense about using the 90 degree corner sideways - so you can angle it down on whicheever angle you like.

Well I don't think I'll need to follow a completed plan for the pot still then. I'll just combine parts of this and that to make what works.
I'll post pictures when done

[Husker]

Thanks for your replies.

I'll go the tri-clamp fitting then since you all recommend it.
Yes that makes sense about using the 90 degree corner sideways - so you can angle it down on whicheever angle you like.

Well I don't think I'll need to follow a completed plan for the pot still then. I'll just combine parts of this and that to make what works.
I'll post pictures when done

Making a pot still is actually a pretty easy thing. If I were you, I would draw up some simple plans, so that you know:

- Need a stick of this size copper tube
- Need a couple 90° elbows
- Need a couple reducers.
- Need some short pieces of X size tubing.
- etc

The biggest description will be on whether to make a lebig condenser, or a coil in the bucket. Both work, but you will need different materials for each. Many here like the lebig (and the pic you posted pointed to that). I myself like the simplicity (and old school look) of the worm in the bucket. Also, if the bucket is large enough, you simply run the still, and never have to worry about the condenser, one condenser full of water is all you need, and when I am done, I simply cover the bucket, and use the same water next time.

Good luck, and be sure to post your copper porn pix when done, we like to drool over newly worked copper here

H.

[lawdog]

if you are making a potstill on a keg, you dont need to buy anything extra at all. use 1 1/4 copper pipe. when u take the snap ring and valve/tube out, u re-use the top collar, seal, and snapring. slide 1 in pipe down over the pick-up tube (from the bottom) and push in/turn on the 3-tab lock to pull the pick-up tube, spring, and ball valve assembly out. with a dremel, grind the little ears off the main collar, and flip it upside-down. slide the 1 1/4" copper column into the collar from the bottom, so it seats against the taper where the rubber seal was before. its a tight fit so you can either weld it or leave it. with the ears ground off the collar, it will be a nice fit in the bore of the keg(thats the way it was made right?), it will seat on the viton gasket already there, and the snapring goes right back in place holding it all in place. the snapring is a spring/double type so it holds real well on the seal, but not too much. really happy with my keg still this way.
another benefit is that its a swiveling still head this way.
also, when u cut the base of the column, if you squeeze it real well( a no-no for soldering, but you will see why)while cutting, it will crimp it down a bit giving a better surface to braize the end to the inside of the collar

[Husker]

dog,

can you post some pix to this method? It sounds like it could be a very nice way to 'tap' a keg for distillation.

If you have pix (or more explanation), create a new thread, as this topic would stand on it's own very well.

H.

[lawdog]

ok, ill write up a little tutorial on it with some pics and post it this week when i get a chance

[Mr.Spooky]

dog,

can you post some pix to this method? It sounds like it could be a very nice way to 'tap' a keg for distillation.

If you have pix (or more explanation), create a new thread, as this topic would stand on it's own very well.

H.

yea,,, i would like to see if this works i still have all the crap that came from my keg. if this was to work,,,it would be "one giant leap for man kind),, the kind that distills anyway!

[HookLine]

Don't know whose pics these are, just ones I found on the net here and there over the years, but they might be useful.

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