Electric boiler half coupling

[grizzlypee]

I'm wanting to build the electric boiler from the main site. Can anyone tell me the demensions I will need to order the half couplings? I could use any other references and info on building this bad boy. I'm hoping to build the one with two elements and a dimmer controler.

I spend hours here browsing and learning. I can't seem to save vital info under favorites. It only seems to save the main site. Anyone else have the same problem?

[condensificator]

hey,

what's up with stealing my avatar?! c'mon man.


i got m 1/2 coupler from msc: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?P ... 0158482317

all of the brewing suppliers have them too.

[grizzlypee]

Sorry. Didn't know about the avatar. Good choice! I'll change. Your link didn't link.

[condensificator]

cool man...i actually thought the same thing when i saw that you registered way before me...the M*A*S*H guys with their "gin" still in the swamp always were super cool to me...left a mark that makes sense now.

you know what they say....great minds think alike!




don't know where you are, but if you are in the states, MSC rules for any industrial type stuff. they have warehouses in strategic places all over the country and they always ship next day for ground price, and the charge by weight...plus, they have just about everything and almost always in stock.... http://www.mscdirect.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[condensificator]

sorry bout the bad link......try this one: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?P ... 0158658705

[condensificator]

sorry, another bad link....try this:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=07211030
or just do a search on the msc site for the item# 07211030

[grizzlypee]

condensificator,
Thanks for the help. I'm assuming you are using a double element boiler. I gotta make the switch. Gas isn't cheap.

[rubber duck]

I'm also preparing to go electric. If I understand correctly this fitting will fit a standard screw in type element. just drill a hole in the keg, tig the fitting to the keg, and the element will screw right in. Have I got it right?

[condensificator]

condensificator,
Thanks for the help. I'm assuming you are using a double element boiler. I gotta make the switch. Gas isn't cheap.

single 5500w element with the MK5500W controller set up. rocks.

I'm also preparing to go electric. If I understand correctly this fitting will fit a standard screw in type element. just drill a hole in the keg, tig the fitting to the keg, and the element will screw right in. Have I got it right?

yep. my tig is still in storage, so i had to mig, but same thing.

[squidd]

I'm also preparing to go electric. If I understand correctly this fitting will fit a standard screw in type element. just drill a hole in the keg, tig the fitting to the keg, and the element will screw right in. Have I got it right?

Hi Rubber Duck,

It did'nt exactly work that way "out of the box" for me.

My coupling had a tapered thread while the element had a straight thread. Got a 1" straight tap (not cheap for one off job) to resolve the issue.

squidd

[rubber duck]

Thanks squid, that's something to consider when buying a coupler. I was going to buy 5 to convert 2 stills and a brew rig but now I think I'll double check.

[condensificator]

I'm also preparing to go electric. If I understand correctly this fitting will fit a standard screw in type element. just drill a hole in the keg, tig the fitting to the keg, and the element will screw right in. Have I got it right?

Hi Rubber Duck,

It did'nt exactly work that way "out of the box" for me.

My coupling had a tapered thread while the element had a straight thread. Got a 1" straight tap (not cheap for one off job) to resolve the issue.

squidd

....hmmmm...you sure? 1" NPT (nominal pipe thread) IS tapered.

with the parts i used, both the coupler and the element are NPT. (the element was off the rack at home depot an the coupler was standard issue from MSC)

did you maybe put the coupler in backwards? (it only threads in properly from one end)

[Izzy_Britton]

I had the same issues on my electric boiler. The half coupler that i purchased was standard tapered pipe thread while the elements are straight thread. In the USA that is... at first i just welded them on to the boiler and tightened the elements in place but i did not like the outcome.

In the end my local big plumbing supply shop was able to order me a BSP (my understanding is this stands for British Straight Pipe) Half Coupler. I then had the coupler turned on a lathe to be cut into two parts and welded those in place of the first ones and they work a charm.

unfortunately i never bought a controller and never used the electric boiler. it is collecting dust in a storage unit several hundreds of miles away.

IzzyB

[nstruktr]

Try this...1" nps works perfect. http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.ph ... path=36_38" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[condensificator]

I had the same issues on my electric boiler. The half coupler that i purchased was standard tapered pipe thread while the elements are straight thread. In the USA that is... at first i just welded them on to the boiler and tightened the elements in place but i did not like the outcome.

In the end my local big plumbing supply shop was able to order me a BSP (my understanding is this stands for British Straight Pipe) Half Coupler. I then had the coupler turned on a lathe to be cut into two parts and welded those in place of the first ones and they work a charm.

unfortunately i never bought a controller and never used the electric boiler. it is collecting dust in a storage unit several hundreds of miles away.

IzzyB

i see. i didn't notice that. my set up worked out perfect with the npt 1/2 coupler and the odd the rack 5500w element.

[squidd]

I'm also preparing to go electric. If I understand correctly this fitting will fit a standard screw in type element. just drill a hole in the keg, tig the fitting to the keg, and the element will screw right in. Have I got it right?

Hi Rubber Duck,

It did'nt exactly work that way "out of the box" for me.

My coupling had a tapered thread while the element had a straight thread. Got a 1" straight tap (not cheap for one off job) to resolve the issue.

squidd

....hmmmm...you sure? 1" NPT (nominal pipe thread) IS tapered. with the parts i used, both the coupler and the element are NPT. (the element was off the rack at home depot an the coupler was standard issue from MSC)

did you maybe put the coupler in backwards? (it only threads in properly from one end)

I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) that NPT stands for National Pipe Taper so yes the thread is tapered.
And NPS stands for National Pipe Straight ?

The thread on my element was definitely straight, as the joint is sealed with a rubber (shudder) gasket.

NotInstaledBackwardssquidd

[Dnderhead]

NPSM,, National/Pipe/straight/Mechanical (seal)
then you can obtain a copper O ring used on oil plugs etc.

[condensificator]

yep...yer right squid...i learn something new every day!

i wonder why my 1" national pipe taper half coupler worked perfectly with the off the rack 55000w element from home depot? ...did i just get lucky? guess the thread on the NPSM element was able to seat itself in the NPT taper??? don't know, but it works without issue.

[condensificator]

All pipe thread types used in plumbing are specified by the American National Standard for pipe as accredited by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI).

National Pipe Threads (NPT) have tapered threads. These are the most common threads used for general purposes. NPT threads are designed with a 60 degree thread angle, and are used for joining and sealing pipe to fittings in low pressure air or liquids and also mechanical applications. The tapered thread is 3/4" over one foot of length. Tapered threads are deeper at the end of the pipe and are increasingly shallower the further they are from the end of the pipe. The taper on the pipe only allows the pipe to screw inside the fitting until it is forced to stop because of the taper. The distance the pipe can be screwed into the fitting is specified by the ANSI standard. After tightening with a wrench the threads may have slight spaces between the pipe and fitting which could cause a leak so a pipe sealant must be used to ensure any gaps are filled.

The Dry-seal thread (NPTF) also have tapered threads. NPTF threads are used when the application is such that pipe sealing compounds may fail due to higher heat or pressure than normal NPT threads can withstand. The threads are designed to seal mechanically by slightly, but sufficiently, crushing the threads when tightened with a wrench. This allows for joining the pipe and fitting without sealants.

The NPT and NPTF threads are interchangeable with sealants such as PTFE tape or suitable pipe joint compounds. None of the other thread standards are interchangeable. Female NPT threads can be designated as "FPT" and male NPT threads can be designated as "MPT."

National Standard Free-Fitting Straight Mechanical Pipe Threads (NPSM) have straight threads which are only used for joining. A washer or gasket is needed to seal this type of threaded connection.

There are also three less common thread types used in the plumbing industry. The Garden Hose Thread (GHT) and the Fire Hose Thread (NST) have course threads. The seal is made with a gasket or washer and are used mainly for attaching (joining) hoses to valves quickly, without the use of a wrench. The British Standard Taper Pipe Thread (BSPT) has a 55 degree thread angle (NPT are 60 degree) and is used internationally as a standard thread for joining steel pipes.

NPT...National Pipe Thread
FPT....Female Pipe Thread
MPT...Male Pipe Thread
PTF....SAE short taper pipe thread
NPTF....American National taper pipe thread for dryseal pressure-tight joints
NPSM....American National straight pipe thread for mechanical joints
NPSI....American National straight intermediate pipe thread
GHT...Garden Hose thread
NST.....Fire Hose thread
BSPT.....British Standard taper pipe thread (metric dimensions)

what a f*ing mess!!! the more i look into it, the more confused i get.

..so, again, the half-coupler i posted the link to: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=07211030 does work with a standard, off the rack 5500w element from home depot...why???...i don't know...but it do.

[chestcutter]

yep...yer right squid...i learn something new every day!

i wonder why my 1" national pipe taper half coupler worked perfectly with the off the rack 55000w element from home depot? ...did i just get lucky? guess the thread on the NPSM element was able to seat itself in the NPT taper??? don't know, but it works without issue.

So for what it's worth in my bumbling toward a first electric keg, courtesy of the same McMaster Carr 1" NPT couplings and a way too expensive weld shop.

Did a little basement research. My 4500 W element (yet to be wired) though it is clearly NPSM seems to have a little smaller, sloppier threads than the 1500W elements (different brand) I curently have hooked up. The 1500 W wouldn't seal in NPT coupling with the standarg gasket, but would with a home-made 2 layer cork gasket and a little teflon tape. 4500 W seals no problem.

Anyone have insight into a good way to fix an electric box over the connections for safely? Have been using a rubber cover with ok success.