6 gal milk can boiler.jpg (1.61 KiB) Viewed 1234 times
Lid with 2" tri clamp ferrule,and homemade clamp
Lid.jpg (1.85 KiB) Viewed 1234 times
Top of boiler with the lid clamp I made.I plan to attach the lid clamp with 2 brake springs from an 18 wheeler.I hope it works
Lid clamp.jpg (1.53 KiB) Viewed 1234 times
15 gal keg that I cut to use as a flake stand.I bought 20 ft 3/8 OD tubing but was thinking of returning it for 1/2 OD.Later I may go with a larger boiler and want to be able to use the same worm.I want it to be good for what I have now to maybe a 15 gal keg later.Any ideas on this? How many ft,tubing size
Flake stand.jpg (1.61 KiB) Viewed 1234 times
Attachments
Another pic of my lid clamp.Any reason this won't work or may a different idea on this?
Hey Mr Moose looks like youve got a great start on your potstill. Your pics are kinda small and wont click, but I get the idea. I would go with the 1/2" worm for sure if your gonna scale up to a keg boiler (3/4" would be better). Your lid clamp looks great. Only way to find out if it works is test it. Prolly just take a little flour paste to seal up tight. Lid and ferrule also look great. An easy flange, some 2" copper and an elbow then reduce to your condenser size and you should be ready to rip. Any plans on how to seal the business end of that worm? Water in and out ports and a drain are real convenient on a large flakestand like that. If your gonna have any welding done I highly recommend them. Thumbs up, Mr Moose!
This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which God intended a more divine means of consumption...
Thanks Smokehouse Shiner,I plan to add a hose bibb to the bottom of the Flakestand to drain an also to add cool water from the bottom.I'm not sure if I need another at the top or not.I plan to use alot of ice instead of alot of running water.I looked at Home Depot for the fittings but couldn't find exactly what I wanted.I hoped to find a brass,copper or stainless bulkhead connectors for the bottom hose but no luck.I have to take the lid Monday to get the ferrule tig welded,so I may as well have a fitting tigged for the hoses.The business end of the worm i have no idea at this time.I know I don't want a big blob of silicone on it.So any idea on that? Will a 10 ft 1/2 worm be enough or do I need 20ft.I tryed the pot still calc. but most of the input info I don't know yet. My lid is a stainless pot lid,perfect fit no side to side movement at all.Its almost a snap tite fit,i'm hoping that with a cork gasket an maybe a flour paste the seal will be good.I pm'd another member about one of his easy flanges. Sorry about the pic size,I thought you could click to enlarge.Hell to tell you the truth I didn't think they would even work my first try.
A good TIG welder is your best friend in this hobby. Treat him good. Home Depot sucks. Since your getting your flakestand welded I would go ahead and get a hot water out port put at the top. Better to have it and not use it than want it and have to drag your keg, worm and all, to the welding shop. On that 6 gal. boiler you prolly wont even need to replenish much, if any ,water on a run, but the keg you prolly will. Ice sounds like a good idea but in practice I think you'll find yourself wanting to just hook up a hose and run a slow stream of water in to your worm. Just my 2 cents. Can't see the picture of your bulkhead fitting right now(my internet is crap)but Im sure you'll get it worked out. You're right you don't want a big blob of silicone on it. What a royal PITA .I would use at least 20 ft. of 1/2" copper. Old timers say 7 turns. 10 ft. won't cut it. Since your cap is such a good fit I would be tempted to use cork but you'll have to find a source for musical grade cork. Cork from the auto parts store is just little pieces of cork "glued" together. No idea whats in it but you don't want it in your still. Musical grade cork is the real deal. Tell em your rebuilding a clarinet.
This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which God intended a more divine means of consumption...
Prolly just take a little flour paste to seal up tight. Lid and ferrule also look great. An easy flange, some 2" copper and an elbow then reduce to your condenser size and you should be ready to rip. Any plans on how to seal the business end of that worm? Water in and out ports and a drain are real convenient on a large flakestand like that. If your gonna have any welding done I highly recommend them. Thumbs up, Mr Moose!
Home Depot sucks. Since your getting your flakestand welded I would go ahead and get a hot water out port put at the top. Better to have it and not use it than want it and have to drag your keg, worm and all, to the welding shop. On that 6 gal. boiler you prolly wont even need to replenish much, if any ,water on a run, but the keg you prolly will. Ice sounds like a good idea but in practice I think you'll find yourself wanting to just hook up a hose and run a slow stream of water in to your worm. Just my 2 cents. Can't see the picture of your bulkhead fitting right now(my internet is crap)but Im sure you'll get it worked out. You're right you don't want a big blob of silicone on it. What a royal PITA 
.I would use at least 20 ft. of 1/2" copper. Old timers say 7 turns. 10 ft. won't cut it. Since your cap is such a good fit I would be tempted to use cork but you'll have to find a source for musical grade cork. Cork from the auto parts store is just little pieces of cork "glued" together. No idea whats in it but you don't want it in your still. Musical grade cork is the real deal. Tell em your rebuilding a clarinet. 
