Best way to cut the holein the top of my keg(boiler)?

[Ono Nadagin]

Just got me a keg so I am gonna give this a shot... but I need to know the best way to cut a clean hole.

I have access to an air compressor if air tools would be the best way to go... I also have hand held electric drills and jigsaws and a recip saw.

I swear I have seen a how to post on this months ago but I cant find it now


TYIA

[Husker]

Your best be is to come up with a design where you do NOT have to cut the top off. Using an 'easy flange', and a 2" upright, you will not have to destroy the keg.

There are times when you 'do' want to cut it. If you are going to put in a low density internal element (one of those round ones), then you have to cut it. If you are going to run thick washes (on the grain), then you likely will want to be able to more easily clean it, and also have it open to stir during the heat up.

I have 1 cut top, and numerous where I did not cut the top. My cut top, has been converted from a boiler, into a permanent (and NICE), coil in the bucket condenser.

Now, if you really have to (or really want to), cut the top, then an angle grinder will do. I did mine using a plasma cutter, and that was a nice way to cut the top quickly. One thing I would recommend, is that you have a couple gallons of water in the bottom of the keg (especially if using a plasma cutter). This will keep the spray from sticking to the inside. I had a hell of a time cleaning up, but did finally get most of the splatter out of there.

Good luck, H.

[Ono Nadagin]

TY for the reply

I was under the impression cutting the top off made cleaning easier, and that keeping it clean was essential. I will be doing Corn and grains and sugars... I do like the idea of the flange I have seen them here and it seems much more professional(for the lack of a batter word).... how do you get the ball out of the neck?... push it through and leave it to roll around?

I will do some searches on 'easy flange' and see if I can get some of my questions answered.

Oh BTW I was planning on using an LPG burner and not an element for a heating source as I can buy LPG where I am quite cheap and I cant help but think it will be much harder to regulate temp with an internal electric heating element.

[Bushman]

how do you get the ball out of the neck?... push it through and leave it to roll around?

There are some good YouTube video's that show how to remove the top and clean a keg, just do a google search and you will find it!

[Bull Rider]

Don't cut the top, you can rinse it out with a hose.


Bull.

[staggerlee]

I did the same thing as Husker.
cut the hole....
wished I didn't...
turned it into condenser barrel.

[LWTCS]

I cant help but think it will be much harder to regulate temp with an internal electric heating element.

A good controller (electric) may give you more stilling opportunities with very precise control.

And by the way,,,,one does not regulate temps,,,,,,only input

[moonshiner dave]

I have to agree with some of the others, I wouldn't cut the top, but to each his own. You won't have any trouble keeping the inside clean with the small hole, and if you would get some grain stuck in there, just drop a short length of clean chain down the hole and swish the hell out of it. I am still kicking myself for cutting the top out of mine, but I do have a good pot to mash in now.

[moonshiner dave]

Dang it, I meant to tell you that there is a snap ring inside the fitting that has to be taken out to get the valve out of the keg. Just remember to let any pressure that is in the keg off by using something to press the ball down with before you take that ring out. And for the sake of all that is good, do not put your face over the valve when you press it down to relieve the pressure, especially if the keg has been empty for a while and it is in the middle of summer. Trust me, I know. Sometimes my body does things before my brain thinks them through.

[Husker]

And for the sake of all that is good, do not put your face over the valve when you press it down to relieve the pressure, especially if the keg has been empty for a while and it is in the middle of summer. Trust me, I know. Sometimes my body does things before my brain thinks them through.

Dave, ur supposed to keep that information secret. It is a right of passage event. Trust me, I also know.

[cob]

Ono Nadagin : Kobayashi Maru. keep one eye open. always. cob

[Titus-a-fishus]

Yeah its best to leave the keg uncut.
Only cut it if you really need too

I cut mine and spent the next few months wishing I hadn't until I finally got another keg.

TAF

[Rum Bum]

I was dreaming about cutting a small port door in the top and installing a drain valve in mine (when I get one), so I wouldn't have to take apart the whole still to do my next batch, I could just drain it out and siphon another mash in. Has anyone tried this?

RB

[moonshiner dave]

And for the sake of all that is good, do not put your face over the valve when you press it down to relieve the pressure, especially if the keg has been empty for a while and it is in the middle of summer. Trust me, I know. Sometimes my body does things before my brain thinks them through.

Dave, ur supposed to keep that information secret. It is a right of passage event. Trust me, I also know.

Guess I let the cat out of the bag.

[LWTCS]

Husker wrote:
moonshiner dave wrote:
And for the sake of all that is good, do not put your face over the valve when you press it down to relieve the pressure, especially if the keg has been empty for a while and it is in the middle of summer. Trust me, I know. Sometimes my body does things before my brain thinks them through.

Dave, ur supposed to keep that information secret. It is a right of passage event. Trust me, I also know.

Guess I let the cat out of the bag.

Lalalalala,,,do not listen to theses crazy people! They are speaking of an urban legend that bears no merit........Dey crazy.

It is common knowledge that that you have to be able to see the vlave in order to press down correctly
Just put on yer safety glasses,,,,and get a good look......THats the way to do it!

[Rum Bum]

Where would I find a thread that talks about putting a drain and/or a little port door in a keg? Is this feasible?

RB

[NineInchNails]

Where would I find a thread that talks about putting a drain and/or a little port door in a keg? Is this feasible?

RB

My keg is propane heated so I put my drain through the side. I made a 3/4" drain, but larger the better if you ask me. Larger fittings are more expensive though.

I measured & drew out where I wanted my drain on paper. This really helped so that I knew what angles to cut the internal drain tube.

I cut a hole in the lower side of my keg using a step drill bit. I drilled a hole just large enough to insert a 3/4" stainless coupling.

The drain tube is the stainless standpipe that was removed from the keg valve. I always knew this stainless tube would come in handy one day. It really helps to have your placement on paper, transfer marks onto the stainless tube, draw lines using marker then cut the tube using a die grinder with abrasive blade. Grind cuts nice & smooth then deburr.

The drain tube gets tack welded to the stainless steel coupling. Insert the assembly through the hole in the keg and make any corrections necessary. I positioned my drain tube so that it is spaced just a tad above the bottom of the keg. Finish welding the drain tube to the coupling.

Install the drain tube through the side of the keg and weld the coupling to the keg then test for leaks.

Done!

[Tater]

http://homedistiller.org/forum/search.p ... mit=Search

[heynonny]

TY for the reply

I was under the impression cutting the top off made cleaning easier

Since Ive been here, Ill bet that the subject of about cutting out the top has been asked (and answered) probably more than a hundred times. Mostly, the first response is

"Dont do it"

With caveats, various methods sometimes are given for removal. Try reading or searching, the info is there, , , , -hey-

[NineInchNails]

There's nothing wrong with cutting out the top just as long you accept that fact that it will cost more make a removable & gasketed top.

Cut hole and weld 6" Tri-Clamp ferrule to the keg. Cut hole in 6" Tri-Clamp cap and weld 3" ferrule to the cap.

[Rum Bum]

NIN,

Your the man! Now I have hope for my keg.

RB

[Bushman]

There's nothing wrong with cutting out the top just as long you accept that fact that it will cost more make a removable & gasketed top.

Cut hole and weld 6" Tri-Clamp ferrule to the keg. Cut hole in 6" Tri-Clamp cap and weld 3" ferrule to the cap.

This would be the best reason that I can think of for cutting a hole in the top of the keg, if you want a larger column than 2"

[mash rookie]

Ono

What kind of keg do you have? I don’t know the styles by name but some of the old ones are easy to cut and lid.

I have an old style keg, curved not straight sides. The ends are recessed about an inch and a half and it is slightly tapered at the recess.
I made a cut with a mini grinder with a cutting blade there. It falls in. I had to force out the cut top. I welded a piece of pipe to this.

It fits perfect onto the keg as a lid. because of the slight taper it seals perfectly without sealant. I snug it tight with a hammer each time I set up, knock it loose when I am done and have a large opening for cleaning and access to my boiling chips.

If none of you guys have done this or are interested, I can post some pictures. Its really simple!!

Mash

[YukonJack]

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this hole?

It is rather wide, but I like NIN's idea to weld on the ss collar. I am afraid the whole I have is too large to fix.

PS - IMO don't cut your keg if it is not necessary. I am trying to fix this one now and am honestly considering just buying another one and moving on....

[mash rookie]

YoukonJack

If you can weld a collar on you can weld a piece of stainless sheet metal to your keg.


If you dont weld, here is what I would do.

Decide how you want to attach your column.

Find a weld shop and have them weld your attachment collar or what ever you choose to a round piece of stainless large enough to cover your hole by a half inch all around.

Drill 3/16 holes around the perimeter every two inches.

Set on your keg and transfer the hole locations.
Then drill and tap the holes on the keg with an 8/32 tap. The stainless keg will hold those threads well. Use Stainless screws.

You can take it on and off each time with the screws using flower and water gasket or just leave it in place after it has been sealed using teflon tape. Or.... After it is scewed down, silver solder it.

Mash

[NineInchNails]

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this hole?

DSCN1679.JPG

It is rather wide, but I like NIN's idea to weld on the ss collar. I am afraid the whole I have is too large to fix.

PS - IMO don't cut your keg if it is not necessary. I am trying to fix this one now and am honestly considering just buying another one and moving on....

YukonJack,

Like mash rookie said, you can well a large ferrule to your keg, but the bigger the fittings get the more expensive they are. I would measure your hole and compare it to the dimensions listed in a Tri-Clamp PDF catalog. You may need a 8" 10" or 12" ferrule for that hole.

Here's a catalog for dimensions: http://andronstainless.com/pdf/02_Clamp-Fittings-10.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I would contact http://www.csidesigns.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow for a quote for the fittings needed if you are located in the US. I'd shop online to 'try' and find a better price, but you likely won't find a better price. 316 SS or 304 SS it doesn't matter, just get which ever is least expensive. I personally would recommend using a ferrule that is 1" to 1.5" tall. You may find 3/4" tall ferrules but you may wish you bought a taller one when you start using the clamp and start bustin up your knuckles.

You'll know if it is cost effective for ya once you tally up the cost for a big ferrule, big gasket, big end cap (to cut a hole in) and the size ferrule you need to weld to the end cap to attach your column. When it comes to using really big fittings like that ... it usually costs more than a replacement keg.