Reflux and Output Tubing

[vdefazzio]

As I near completion of my first build of a Valved Reflux Column still, based on http://moonshine-still.com/valved-reflux-still-head/, pretty much spec on to that design. My concern is whether my relux and output tubing is large enough of a diameter to not overflow the nipple below the condenser. Why am I concerned? I built a variant of the double helix condenser coil, two independent coils with separate coolant inputs. Before I mount two 1/4" OD needle valves, I want to make sure that they are sufficient, or should I go to 3/8 "?

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9nx1o ... aTlQU2JHQQ
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9nx1o ... cHV3ZGh0dw

[myles]

Nice coil Not sure why you wish to run them independently though - I would join the tails and run them in parallel, 2 ins together and 2 outs together.

I have heard some bad reports of the 1/4" tube for the output line. I would increase them both just to err on the side of caution. Are you planning on running your product output tube down the centre of the coolant supply line to the coil.

[vdefazzio]

Nice coil Not sure why you wish to run them independently though - I would join the tails and run them in parallel, 2 ins together and 2 outs together.

I have heard some bad reports of the 1/4" tube for the output line. I would increase them both just to err on the side of caution. Are you planning on running your product output tube down the centre of the coolant supply line to the coil.

I wanted to maximize my cooling, by having two coils, about the same length, but having independent flows(Doubling the cooling I hope), rather than making coolant go through one long coil. My inputs are the short tubes at the top and my output the longs, coolant flowing downward, counter to the flow of vapor, similar in nature to a counter flow wort chiller. with the output going back up the middle of the coils.
My reflux and take off are going to be placed per the spec on http://moonshine-still.com/valved-reflux-still-head/, bottom of the 2" nipple below the condenser head.
Thanks for the "gentle" reply......I've been reading here for a while today and realized that new guys around here take a few licks at first.

[Coaster]

@ vdefazzio,

Welcome to the Forum.

Nice looking Coil. Out of curiosity why did you use brass compression elbows instead of copper sweat elbows on your cooling coils?

Using both 3/8 lines instead of ¼ would be better. With 3/8 lines and 3/8 Needle Valves you will be able to fine-tune both the Reflux and the Product output.

Regards,
Coaster

[vdefazzio]

@ vdefazzio,

Welcome to the Forum.

Nice looking Coil. Out of curiosity why did you use brass compression elbows instead of copper sweat elbows on your cooling coils?

Using both 3/8 lines instead of ¼ would be better. With 3/8 lines and 3/8 Needle Valves you will be able to fine-tune both the Reflux and the Product output.

Regards,
Coaster

Thanks! I used the elbows because I couldn't find any 1/4" OD copper elbows, the guy at Homedepot looked at me like I was crazy when I asked for them.
I hand rolled the coil, the outer around a 3/4" piece of pvc, and the inner around a piece of 1/2" pvc. Baby powder on my hands and a turn of grey duct tape around the pvc made it an easy job. I turned them both out in about 45 minutes.

[Wnkdnk]

Looks awesome, gives me confidence to make my own! Keeping cost down equals more likker!

[MuleKicker]

Nice Job. You should try to post the pics on HD, rather than just the link. That way the pics stay here, instead of a broken link some day.

[myles]

You are correct about the advantages of having the coils NOT in series. Among other things it reduces the back pressure on your pump - which is a good thing for some pumps. What I really meant was why would you need independent control. For 1 thing it means two control valves.

If you run them in parallel by joining both input lines together and both output lines together, it is the same as what you proposed at first - just you control both coils at the same time with a single valve. In through the coil and out through the centre line so the coil is contraflow is the right way to do it. I always put my control valve on the output line of the coil, as if you ever wish to run at slow coolant flows it ensures that the coil is always full.

If you haven't finished the tails already, what I do these days is to slide a short length of the next size up tube over each tail and solder it on. It doubles up the wall thickness and makes the tails much more rigid - as the tails sometimes get a lot of wear and that is where the coilt is most likely to get damaged.

[emptyglass]

I realise this is an easy way to do it, but you really don't want that much brass in the product flow.
At worst, you could expand some copper tube, even at 1/4", and do a better thing.

Good to know you have seen new(bie)s ideas smashed. You wont take offence then.

Very nice coil bloke. Hang in there, you'll sus it out soon enough.

[vdefazzio]

I realise this is an easy way to do it, but you really don't want that much brass in the product flow.
At worst, you could expand some copper tube, even at 1/4", and do a better thing.

Good to know you have seen new(bie)s ideas smashed. You wont take offence then.

Very nice coil bloke. Hang in there, you'll sus it out soon enough.

It's funny you said that about expanding tubing.......I have a flair tool, and I tried to do that a couple times with the 1/4" OD, and it kept splitting. One question about the brass fittings: I was concerned abut brass as well, but these fittings are supposed to be "California Approved" IE not supposed to have any lead content. Does that matter or is brass in general a no-no?

[Coaster]

@ vdefazzio,

If you have problems with the tubing splitting suggest annealing the area you are attempting to flare or expand. Annealing the area will help in preventing splitting. Also ensuring that there are not any stress riser burrs in the area that you are attempting to flare or expand.

The Big Box Brick guy’s selection is very limited. To obtain ¼ sweat copper fittings suggest checking with local Heating and Air Condition supply stores (the places where Air Condition guy’s purchase their supplies).

If you are going to use those brass compression elbows suggest “Pickling” them.

Regards,
Coaster

[vdefazzio]

@ vdefazzio,

If you have problems with the tubing splitting suggest annealing the area you are attempting to flare or expand. Annealing the area will help in preventing splitting. Also ensuring that there are not any stress riser burrs in the area that you are attempting to flare or expand.

The Big Box Brick guy’s selection is very limited. To obtain ¼ sweat copper fittings suggest checking with local Heating and Air Condition supply stores (the places where Air Condition guy’s purchase their supplies).

If you are going to use those brass compression elbows suggest “Pickling” them.

Regards,
Coaster

I didn't even consider HVAC suppliers....AWESOME! Thanks!

[emptyglass]

@ vdefazzio,

If you have problems with the tubing splitting suggest annealing the area you are attempting to flare or expand. Annealing the area will help in preventing splitting. Also ensuring that there are not any stress riser burrs in the area that you are attempting to flare or expand.

Coasters got it. Copper is very maliable when annealed and wont split.

You could also obtain 1/4" copper elbows from a trade plumbing supplier as "weld on elbows" or "copper weldments". They are what you need in your situation. It will take any concerns about brass away. Interesting to know that cali has those sort of standards, I'm on the other side of the world.