Advice for making my pot still

[wombatvvv]

Hello guys,

I've been reading a lot - mostly from Google searches - on how to construct a simple pot still. I anticipate I'll have a lot of questions to ask, so instead of carpet-bombing the forum, I'll just keep them in here.

My first question is regarding the condenser coil. I had read on other sites to wrap a length of copper tube around a bottle or something similar, and to pack that in a bucket with ice. I have no idea how they managed to do that. Even with pipe-benders I couldn't get a proper coil. I think the pipe I got is just too thick.

The condenser pipe I have made is pictured below. After reading the thread on "How to wind a perfect coil condenser" thread in the Novice distiller reading lounge, I'm concerned that this just won't do the job. Are there enough coils? Is it long enough (3m)? Is the pipe too thick (1/2")?

Thanks.

First attempt at a condenser coil

[NY Chris]

I doesn't have to look pretty to make some good whisky. How many feet ya got there?
Good luck to you
Keep it safe.
Chris

[just-a-sip]

I doesn't have to look pretty to make some good whisky. How many feet ya got there?
Good luck to you
Keep it safe.
Chris

thats not the problem .... this thing needs to be started ove or fixed....

1) it may not exactly be ling enough
2) and most importantly it has so downwards slop it will cause water back up and pooling in the low sections.

my advice is to start over and aneal the coil to make it easier to bend then you should be just fine.

[anderson0196]

Tough to tell but that push lock connector at the top probably has plastic in it which you would not want in the vapor path.

Sorry I don't have any feedback on the worm....I'm using a Liebig


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[wombatvvv]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

The compression lock connector at the top has a copper fitting (it did also come with a plastic one though).

It's 3 metres long (10 feet) and 1/2 inch in diameter.

The sloping downwards thing is easily fixed by simply adjusting the angle of the input and output sections and having the coils on an angle. Having said that, I probably will start over and try to find a round post to wrap it around instead of using my hands and a tube bender.

[NY Chris]

If you buy new copper it comes in a coil and it won't take to much effort to bend it. I bent mine around a 1 gallon wine jug and it worked great. The copper bends easy when it's new.
If you get it used and it's been straightened it tends to not want to bend again and it will kink easy.

I think you can use the one you have as long as you adjust it so it doesn't pool any liquid.

Good luck with it

[ErnieV]

To make copper soft simply warm it up until it's faintly red with a blow torch and let it cool in the air.

Every time you bend it, it starts to harden, so may need annealing again. It does bend easily after it's been annealed, you will be surprised.

Good luck.

[wombatvvv]

Thanks guys. Unfortunately, I'm not as much of a handyman as I'd like to be. I don't have access to a blowtorch ... and I've gone and ruined the coil that I had by trying to make it better ... kinked it trying to straighten it out, and now there's an obvious spot where if I bend it again it will break. I've got another length of copper pipe though, so I will put the first one down to a learning experience. I just need to find a pole to wrap it around. I tried to do it by hand around a wine bottle, but the copper is just too hard. I feel I need a pole with a sturdy foundation so I can really apply some pressure to it. It is actually annealed when I got it from the hardware store. I don't have a problem bending it, but bending it into tight coils with no kinks is another story. Fingers crossed I find a suitable "mould" somewhere.

[just-a-sip]

it may vary well be anealed from the store but the moment you start bending it, it will work harden. you need to have some way of anealing it again if it is needed. you should invest in a propane or MAPP gas torch. they sell them at any major hardware store like a lowes or home depot. not to mention you will most likely need it in the rest of your build.

[ErnieV]

Do you have a home brew shop close by?

You could buy a "wort" cooler. Which is a perfectly manufactured coil.

I agree with sip though, invest in a blow torch would be the best bet


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[wombatvvv]

Thanks guys.

I've already spent more than I planned. I guess I didn't look into it properly, but I thought this would be a relatively simple and cheap exercise. I've already spent well over $300, and I haven't even bought the stockpot yet. Spending another ~$150 on a blowtorch just for this project might be stretching it, but I will consider the option anyway.

I guess if it makes decent alcohol in the end, and I can give everyone moonshine next Christmas, that will be some kind of return on investment. I was hoping to make my own liqueurs from the finished product, custom-made for everyone in the family (by infusing honeys, fruits, spices, etc.).

[jholmz]

not sure where your from but you can get a propane torch for around 30 usd

[ErnieV]

This one in the UK is all you will need. Get something like that where you live.

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/handtools-st ... d=11758746" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[just-a-sip]

300 into it already and your not even done with the condenser for a simple pot still.... is it possible for you to put up more pics because although copper is expensive i am not sure where you are spending so much for this to just build a pot still. even if you have to buy a keg you should be able to get that for around 50 bucks used.

please post some pics so we can see why you may be over spending

[wombatvvv]

Okay cheers, I will look into a propane torch.

My next question is regarding the stock pot. Turns out my mum has a large (30L+) aluminium stock pot that she's willing to donate. From what I can tell, stainless steel is definitely the preferred option, but I did some research, and the beer-brewers seem to think that aluminium is fine, especially for a "first pot", as long as one leaves the "oxidisation layer" on the bottom of the pot (i.e. don't clean it). Later, I can upgrade to a stainless steel one.

My plan was to use a mixing bowl for the lid, and seal with flour-dough.

What are you thoughts on an aluminium stock pot for a still?

[wombatvvv]

300 into it already and your not even done with the condenser for a simple pot still.... is it possible for you to put up more pics because although copper is expensive i am not sure where you are spending so much for this to just build a pot still. even if you have to buy a keg you should be able to get that for around 50 bucks used.

please post some pics so we can see why you may be over spending

You'd be surprised how it adds up! I don't think pics are necessary, I can just tell you.

I've basically bought everything... (including tools), which is why the cost is so high. I'm not much of a handyman (I'm a web developer as a profession), so I've never really done anything like this before. It's a learning experience. A lot of that stuff I'm putting down to "tools I should have anyway".

So far, I've bought: 30L fermenting barrel, airlocks, rubber bungs, grommets, alchometer, new drill, holesaw kit, high-quality lubricant, cooking thermometers, pipe benders, various buckets and pails, 12m of 1/2 inch copper pipe, 4 vice clamps, food-grade silicon sealant ... and that's just what I can remember off the top of my head.

The drill, holesaw kit, lubricant and fermenting barrel added up almost 200 by themselves.

[just-a-sip]

You'd be surprised how it adds up! I don't think pics are necessary, I can just tell you.

I've basically bought everything... (including tools), which is why the cost is so high. I'm not much of a handyman (I'm a web developer as a profession), so I've never really done anything like this before. It's a learning experience. A lot of that stuff I'm putting down to "tools I should have anyway".

So far, I've bought: 30L fermenting barrel, airlocks, rubber bungs, grommets, alchometer, new drill, holesaw kit, high-quality lubricant, cooking thermometers, pipe benders, various buckets and pails, 12m of 1/2 inch copper pipe, 4 vice clamps, food-grade silicon sealant ... and that's just what I can remember off the top of my head.

The drill, holesaw kit, lubricant and fermenting barrel added up almost 200 by themselves.[/quote]

ok lose the rubber bungs, and the food grade silicone

but i agree it does add up

[wombatvvv]

If I have to lose the bungs and silicone, what do I use to seal around the piping and thermometer in the lid of the still?

[jholmz]

flour paste works good also a thread around here about using pasta

[just-a-sip]

If I have to lose the bungs and silicone, what do I use to seal around the piping and thermometer in the lid of the still?

ok perhaps you moving just a bit to far...


start here http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =35&t=5090
#8


then move on the the new distillers reading lounge.

i think honestly we have gotten ahead of ourselves here.

[jholmz]

check out the thread that sip listed it is safety and materials thread hope you get your still put together and make a go of it. take a look in pot distilation and design also might be something you can use.

[wombatvvv]

flour paste works good also a thread around here about using pasta

Cheers mate.

I have already read about using flour paste, but I'd prefer to have a slightly more "professional" finish. The plan (which is only in my head at the moment) is to use a mixing bowl for the lid of the boiler. I was going to holesaw holes in that for a cooking thermometer to the side, and a short length (4" or so) of copper pipe fitted with a compression-connector (so I can dissemble the set-up easily) in the centre. The plan up until recently was to use bored-out rubber bungs that I purchased from the home-brew store to seal the thermometer and pipe. I have actually been trying to think-up another way to do that already without the rubber, as I had actually already read not to use synthetics. It was just the only way I could think of, and I had assumed the stuff coming from the homebrew store would be okay in the short-term. I would prefer to use cork, but I couldn't find any source for it.

So how do I go about sealing the holes in the still lid? If this information is easily found in the novice section (which I have been reading a lot already!) then I must have missed it.

If you don't have the time or inclination to answer basic (for you) questions from a novice, that's perfectly understandable. For those that do have the time and will, I'm very appreciative.

[wombatvvv]

what he was getting at about the bungs is that being rubber they will react to the alcohol and give a bad taste to your spirits there are threads on it in a couple different places some in novice and in safety and materialshope you get it put together and make a go of it. take a look in pot distilation and design also might be something you can use.

I will have a look at more designs. Thanks.

FYI: the original idea to use rubber bungs and food grade silicone came from this image, which is found on the main site:

[wombatvvv]

.... mind you, below that image, was this, which is very helpful:

The lyne arm is attached to the lid of the pressure cooker by two male/female brass connectors, one on the inside, one on the ouside and the seal is made by a copper washer on each side. I cranked the connectors until the washers were squashed then tested the seal with dishwashing detergent while distilling water. No leaks. The pressure cooker is stainless and holds 10l. I used 10ml copper tubing throughout."

That sorts that out then. Now is just the thermometer.

[jholmz]

consider do you need a thermometer your building a simple pot still theres really no need for a thermometer you adjust the heat according to the flow of spirit

[wombatvvv]

consider do you need a thermometer your building a simple pot still theres really no need for a thermometer you adjust the heat according to the flow of spirit

Just for my own education and curiosity, I'd like to be able to observe the boiling points of the different alcohols.

I imagine I could just use a regular wine-bottle cork to seal the thermometer. I imagine I could jam it through a small hole I cut with the hole-saw and seal around the outside-edge with the food-grade silicone (it would barely be in contact with the vapours).

[just-a-sip]

ok man we have been trying to help and being nice about the line of questioning but just like it states in rule

#8 These forums take a very strong negative view on the usage of plastics and synthetics in distilling. It simply is not safe to use in any area of hobby distilling (however HPDE buckets are acceptable for fermentation.) There simply are too many types of plastics and lack of reliable information about plastics, for us to reliably advocate their use anywhere in the distillation apparatus. Also, from past posting history, this topic seems to quickly boil down into an almost religious flame war. Thus we simply will not put up with it, and posts about any form of plastic use will be edited, deleted or locked. There is a forum for proven info for or against any material (material/safety.)

we are trying to help you but to be honest it seams as iff you are not wanting the answers.

no silicone.
the thermometer is not needed for any reason and it adds nothing more then something saying "yup its hot"

you mentioned you didnt want to put any more money into your rig but are designing a substandard start up which you will inevitably have to throw away after putting unsafe products on it and starting over which will cost more money.


so more research before you continue I BEG YOU>

[wombatvvv]

Thanks for your advice just-a-sip, I will take it into account.

[wombatvvv]

Does it matter how big the boiler is?

My fermenting barrel is 30L, but my Mum has an aluminium stockpot she's willing to donate, which is 100L. Problem is, I'll probably only by boiling ~25L at any one time. Seems like a bit of overkill. Alternatively, I could just buy a 25 or 30L stockpot, and get a stainless steal one.

[jholmz]

wombat please read the safety and materials section in the new members must read area