sight glasses

[new distiller]

The more I research the more I want one of these awesome "flute" designs... There a bit as far as I can tell out of my skill range mainly cutting the big ass holes and (circular?) Glass, the fuck does that come from do you guys cut it? Anyways my wife is just about ready to murder me for spending my hard earned money on something I actually like doing (building a bokal) as soon as I buy the rest of the materials and my tri clamp comes from eBay... Is there any other design that comes close to producing higher percentage neutrals and great flavoured spirits as well? Also what is the purpose of the sight glasses other than looking fucking awesome....

[pfshine]

The sight glasses are great for monitoring the run. For example when i see the vapor start to rise i turn the rc up to where i want it for full reflux then once i see the plates are loaded i stabilize for 15 min or so. At that point they are just eye candy for the moment. Then when i see the plates getting low i pump up the reflux until the plates are once again full. There are also other benefits like knowing if it is about to flood and stopping a full on puke.

[friendly1uk]

I'm thinking of a glass column. No different in price to copper. I can use a 2" tank connector from the boiler. It will take a mesh then the tube. Fill tube with whatever. At the top of the tube switch back to metal for the take off and condenser. Then you get to see the separation right the way up the tube, and take off at the top without need for any work to the glass. The top can be a bit wider to, aiding construction.

Just a little food for thought
http://www.waleapparatus.com/catalog.as ... prevnext=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Jkhippie]

That's great for those experienced in building/running stills and with the capacity for working with glass. Let's not give the uninitiated any ideas that may be dangerous and lead to mayhem.

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!

Just sayin'

[wv_cooker]

I'm thinking of a glass column. No different in price to copper. I can use a 2" tank connector from the boiler. It will take a mesh then the tube. Fill tube with whatever. At the top of the tube switch back to metal for the take off and condenser. Then you get to see the separation right the way up the tube, and take off at the top without need for any work to the glass. The top can be a bit wider to, aiding construction.

Just a little food for thought
http://www.waleapparatus.com/catalog.as ... prevnext=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

The thick wall borosillicate is better than the standard wall however as stated unless you are experienced with glass and just want to keep it quiet, it is highly not recommended around here to use any glass in the building or vapor path of a still. I won't tell you that I have 2 but still don't recomend it

[bearriver]

Everything you need as far as glass goes is here : (and other places too)

http://www.onedayglass.com/patterns.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Get borosilicate glass. Its tempered for thermal shock after the cutting is done. Thus every piece is custom made for you with price breaks for every additional piece. Reference the safety data so you know how thick of glass to buy. Affordable IMO. I dream of a flute with BR engravings on tri clamp sight glasses.

The previous poster is right however. Glass is dangerous to say the least and best left alone.

[frodo]

241213 thinking.gif (2.17 KiB) Viewed 3472 times

dang,,that link, gives me ideas. like a glass portal hole in the still.
better yet..i wonder if glass pipe, used for acid piping can be used as a condenser collum...

[Halfbaked]

I have seen professionals use the same glass. All good but where you gonna get the SS tri clamp parts?

[bearriver]

Ask odin

He built a glass boka. Look up glass porn, and gawk

[friendly1uk]

I keep searching, but the word 'exhaust' is not providing answers. Car exhausts I mean. Cheapest source for ss pipe and clamps. 314 but seems to be s314 not 314L which as yet I have not figured out. Lots stocked locally and assembled for good prices. Just pop to the tyre and exhaust center. But s314?

My tube is from an explosion proof light fitting. It sleeves the fluorescent tube. Stainless end caps as standard. Just where did I leave it though... I have drilled it with carbide tile bits, as diamond bits just fell apart. I may of moved units and lost it though. Thankfully... The place it came from is coming down soon. I might speak to the demolition guys if I get chance. I used it to water jacket a 400w lamp as matey thought it would keep it cool. The tube got so hot the damp wood it stood on was steaming in very little time, with my coolant warming nicely. Tiz good tube on them explosion proof fittings.

[pfshine]

I would not at all use car exhaust pipe at all ever in a still.

[bearriver]

Im not the most literate person in the world....
Is anyone else udderly confused by friendly1uk's comments? What is he trying to say?

I agree with pfshine, no car parts.

[Halfbaked]

Not cornfused at all. I speak that language when I have to much liquid corn also.

[wv_cooker]

I keep searching, but the word 'exhaust' is not providing answers. Car exhausts I mean. Cheapest source for ss pipe and clamps. 314 but seems to be s314 not 314L which as yet I have not figured out. Lots stocked locally and assembled for good prices. Just pop to the tyre and exhaust center. But s314?

My tube is from an explosion proof light fitting. It sleeves the fluorescent tube. Stainless end caps as standard. Just where did I leave it though... I have drilled it with carbide tile bits, as diamond bits just fell apart. I may of moved units and lost it though. Thankfully... The place it came from is coming down soon. I might speak to the demolition guys if I get chance. I used it to water jacket a 400w lamp as matey thought it would keep it cool. The tube got so hot the damp wood it stood on was steaming in very little time, with my coolant warming nicely. Tiz good tube on them explosion proof fittings.

Most auto exhaust tubing is a mixture of stainless steel and carbon steel not food grade and not safe for use in a still. How do I know this 2 of my businesses were auto related a towing service and recycling business and a full blown auto and truck repair both of which are still being run by my children. Just because something says stainless steel please don't think it is safe to use for our needs. 304 or 316 stainless or copper only for our needs. Hope this helps.

[friendly1uk]

Hello Pal. I have seen some terrible SS exhausts that rusted at the welds in just a couple of years. It is doubtful some is even from the 300 series. Nobody is asking, they are just buying a stainless steel exhaust. It could be anything. If it is listed as 314 I would hope it is though. So it has the higher chromium and nickel content of 316 but still with the manganese content of 304. I can't think why it would be unsuitable. The low carbon (314L) version seems a good choice. I get dairy fittings in 314 quite cheaply, so it would be a pity if your right.

I used 316 dairy weld elbows when I boosted my miata. They salt uk roads and it has the better salt resistance.

[bearriver]

All stainless steel rusts at the welds until you repassivate it. The nickel on the surface is worn away exposing iron in the metal to oxygen (all steel contains iron). Iron + oxygen = rust that spreads like cancer.

I've heard of some slick welding machines that can passivate as it welds

Can you trust that something marked 314 pipe is actually 314 from an auto parts supplier that buys from God knows where?

[pfshine]

If you weld right with a purge and dont sugar the bejesus out of it it wont rust. As you are welding with the purge it is pasivating the base metal.

[FreeMountainHermit]

All stainless steel rusts at the welds until you repassivate it. The nickel on the surface is worn away exposing iron in the metal to oxygen (all steel contains iron). Iron + oxygen = rust that spreads like cancer.

Hmmmm, I used to weld stainless hot temp & cold temp high pressure vessels for the pharmecutical/petro-chemical industry that were X-Ray & ultrasound tested as well as being in compliance with National Bureau of Standards,AWS and ASME standards in addition to having an insurance underwriter rep staring over my shoulder every step of the way.

Better bone up on filler material and the entire process in general before you go spouting off.

FMH.

[FreeMountainHermit]

All stainless steel rusts at the welds until you repassivate it. The nickel on the surface is worn away exposing iron in the metal to oxygen (all steel contains iron). Iron + oxygen = rust that spreads like cancer.

Hmmmm, I used to weld stainless high temp & cold temp high pressure vessels for the pharmecutical/petro-chemical industry that were X-Ray & ultrasound tested as well as being in compliance with National Bureau of Standards,AWS and ASME standards in addition to having an insurance underwriter rep staring over my shoulder every step of the way.
FMH.

Better bone up on filler material and the entire process in general before you go spouting off.

[frodo]

I have seen professionals use the same glass. All good but where you gonna get the SS tri clamp parts?

http://catalog.hsmartin.com/category/bo ... 100%7C1021

maybe here

[bearriver]

http://www.pureflowinc.com/PDF?id=31" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I can post more links if necessary from HD, Brew forums, welding forums, wikipedia, and more all with real information regarding welding and passivation. My uncle welded 30 years on NAVY ships, and he also has no idea what passivation is or why its important. I think the NAVY standards are respectable, so don't feel bad fmh.

If all the sources I used when reading about SS and passivation are wrong, then please, correct these oversights and make your case. I'd love to hear about what you know.

Until then I stand by my original statement. Conventional welding comprimises the anodic oxide film that protects the iron in the stainless steel from oxidizing. It's beyond me how someone can weld for 20 years or more and not know that. I do, and I dont even weld.

[pfshine]

Passivation occurs while welding.

[bearriver]

Gas metal arc welding does not passivate as it welds. This is same type of welder that I've seen all the exhaust and car shops I've been in.

I do know there are other methods of welding SS that DO passivate as they weld, but those are not gmaw welds.

[FreeMountainHermit]

It's beyond me how someone can weld for 20 years or more and not know that. I do, and I dont even weld.

Well boy, when you work in a shop that welds to codes, procedures and customer specifications on high pressure vessels you adhere to those codes, procedures and customer specs or you're out the door. PERIOD There is no latitude.

Show us what you have done or speak from hands on exp. instead of parroting others work and posting links about things you have no personal knowledge of.

Almost 300 posts in a month and one run under your belt. Gain some experience and share and we'll all be the better for it.

Enjoy your evening, FMH.

[bearriver]

Other than conjecture and opinions, do you have a point to why I am wrong about this? I really want to know where Im wrong here, if I am. I'll eat every word.

Are you even talking about rust on welds anymore? Based on your posts here and the mean PM you sent me, you have taken some kind of personal interest in me. I'm a real person who is maybe a little over-enthused to be here. It took me well over a year to save enough extra money to complete my build. I post a lot because I'm very excited talking with lots of very friendly folks about something that gives me passion. You are a grown man over half my age, and should act like it.

Im sorry for wasting all this thread space, I'm done.

[FreeMountainHermit]

Based on your posts here and the mean PM you sent me, you have taken some kind of personal interest in me. I'm a real person who is maybe a little over-enthused to be here. It took me well over a year to save enough extra money to complete my build. I post a lot because I'm very excited talking with lots of very friendly folks about something that gives me passion. You are a grown man over half my age, and should act like it.

Im sorry for wasting all this thread space, I'm done.

PMs are are just that, private. Why not channel your your passion & excitement into telling us about an upcoming fermentation or something going on with your distilling hobby instead of hanging out here talking. I along with many members here would love to assist you or share with you your successes as well as failures. Don't be a troll and live this hobby vicariously through this forum. You're wasting my time as well as that of others who are here to learn and share and I too am sorry for wasting all this thread space, I'm done.

Gonna go kill me some deer in the AM.

FMH.

[Odin]

Our experience is that if you want to use glass, make sure you use the right glass. Heating and alcohol need the safest materials available. We only use (and recomend) 4 mm thick borosilicate glass. Anything smaller or of lesser quality than that is a safety compromize. And one shouldn't compromize on safety.

Odin.