Put some copper scrubbies in the first few inches of it and it will work fine. I found that unraveling the scrubbies gave me perfect pieces to shove down the liebeg, and they knock down all of the vapors.
according to the calculator 1m of 15 and 22mm tube is optimum for a running wattage of about 1200W im using a 2.4kw element and a resistance controlled SSR to manage the power, using full pelt to heat up and a lower power to maintain the run.
Bottom line is that it is your's and you can play with it however you want to . Run it and observe . Should be fine as you built it . If it starts huffing you are overdriving it or underdriving coolant flow . One hand washes the other . If you don't get the output and speed you expected you can modify . In the meantime ; get good at driving what you got . The experience will stand you in good stead ...................
If you ain't the lead dog in the team , the scenery never changes . Ga Flatwoods made my avatar and I want to thank him for that .
Don't drink water , fish fornicate in it .
Truckinbutch wrote:Bottom line is that it is your's and you can play with it however you want to . Run it and observe . Should be fine as you built it . If it starts huffing you are overdriving it or underdriving coolant flow . One hand washes the other . If you don't get the output and speed you expected you can modify . In the meantime ; get good at driving what you got . The experience will stand you in good stead ...................
I'm a shorter than a meter and never had a problem.
The calc on the parent site does say that a shorter condensor can be used if the flowrate is increased. A cheap ($10-$15) aquarium water pump can easily provide 4x the 1.23l/m that appears in the flowrate field for 3kw, using a 15mm liebeg.
