Let's see your controller box

[Bushman]

Just got my new ammeter installed so it now is back working. Today I will test it with a run!

[Brendan]

I am running 110, I am running two elements. I meant what I wrote.

You are correct about them being 5500 Watt though.

Still doesn't add up? Either that, or we're just confused about what you're actually doing...?

[humbledore]

Nice photostream, sw_reijnders, and nice controller. Is that for beer and shine both? Because I see the temp controllers. Also why don't you head on over to the welcome center and introduce yourself, tell us more about what you like to make and how you make it.

HD

[Odin]

Using gold connectors now.

Odin.

[Jimbo]

Using gold connectors now.

Odin.

About time!

Cheers.

[Odin]

Odin.

[humbledore]

Those are pretty nice. I mean, if you can't afford the platinum ones I guess.

[greenthumb]

My two pence worth

2 seperate controllers so I dont draw excessive power from one socket alone, 2x 2500w heaters, so this is very easy to control and find the ballance, I'm still looking out for a large heatsink to replace the 2 computer heatsinks, will make it more efficient as it does get hot

[Jimbo]

She's a beauty Greenthumb.

[bentstick]

Heres mine been in action for a year and a 1/2,the 2 digital temps display will be be hooked back up once new boiler is in action

[humbledore]

Nice! What is the digiflow? Some kind of flowmeter?

[bentstick]

Yep hook to my reflux condeser!http://www.futurlec.com/index.shtml

[Bob Loblaw]

Cool thread. There are some real craftsmen out there. Here's my relatively simple controller. Basic SD DIY kit + a cheap chinese Ammeter/voltmeter off of ebay. Right now I have it wired up for 110v, but it should work for 220v too. I haven't done a run with it yet, so we will see how it handles the heat. I drilled holes in the side of the case but am waiting to see if it also needs a fan.

[NineInchNails]

Very cool controller Bob Loblaw! That looks really nice. A fan may not be absolutely necessary, but if I have room inside the box I prefer to use one.

[The KYChemist]

I still have a few more things planned, but this is close to the final product. I went to a local music store, and got hooked up with the chicken head knob, for free. I want that retro look, but haven't made up my mind between this or the original SCR controller knob. I wanted a red knob, but they only had black in their spare parts drawer. Or, I could've ordered 6 for $8.00.

[humbledore]

I love the handles on this... "Hang on, we're going to eleven!".

[Jimbo]

I love the handles on this... "Hang on, we're going to eleven!".

haha reminds me of this joke.

engineer.jpg (14.64 KiB) Viewed 7206 times

[Odin]

Here's a picture of the new power management module to my 50 liter still. Heat-up at 4 KW, automatic switch to 2 KW for the actual run. And you can manually dial in anything from 0 to 4.0 KW yourself. For faster stripping, slower spirit runs, or for creating more reflux in pure mode for more re-distillations.

Odin.

[Odin]

And here's a picture of the WiFi / Blue Tooth power management module for my all glass LM rig. With led lights ...

[humbledore]

Very clean Odin! and very blingy.

[no drink firewater]

simple and cheap

[bellybuster]

simple and cheap are 2 of the bestest words

[humbledore]

Wow very compact, I like that. My box was 6x6x6 and I had problems getting it all in there.

[The KYChemist]

Wow very compact, I like that. My box was 6x6x6 and I had problems getting it all in there.

That's what she said! Sorry... Couldn't help it!

[humbledore]

Wait for it...

[guyonthecouch]

I know It's plain but It's my first one. Should do the job. And It's not %100 done yet either.

[HDNB]

start of my bargain basement controller.
power in on left, thru switch, (pick up for volt meter on load side not complete) white thru ammeter to element, black tthru ssr then to element.

homemade heat sink (there is a hole behind it for air ingress) air out thru low volt fan ...not finished wiring yet.

the box, heat sink and cover all grounded thru the stud post holding the heat sink in.

i will wire the volt meter on the load side of the switch so if the switch is on, i got a nice red readout on the front panel.

[rager]

this is my set up, I got your pm HDNB thanks.

the switch im using
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-30-A ... /100356941" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

on question, is my fan wired correctly? its a 220v computer fan

thanks

rager (cheers, a finger of SF fresh off the rig)

[HDNB]

the main wiring...it does not look right... hard to make out...

but do you see how mine has black in on the bottom of the switch and then the black comes out the bottom of the other side of the switch and goes to the ssr and then exits the ssr to the cable in the strain relief on the bottom right?

then (on mine)(from the incoming power on the left strain relief-hard to see it's behind the green ground wire) the white goes in the top of the switch and comes out the other side of switch, goes thru the ammmeter and then to the element (via the right strain relief)

your picture it looks like the incoming power black/white goes to each side of the bottom of your switch...which makes it "open" or a "dead short" depending on the position of the switch. (one way nothing works...the other way a breaker pops or a fire starts)....now it is possible your switch is opposite to mine and makes/breaks from the top to the bottom...but this would be unusual, most double pole switches in the 20 /30 amp range make/break from the left to right...like mine.

the only way to know for sure is to check it with an ohm meter... since it is possible to be configured either way

once you know which side of the switch is line power (incoming) and which side is load (outgoing) just hook the 220V fan to load side...when the switch is "on" the element and the fan will both be energized simultaneously.

[HDNB]

and looking a bit closer at yours, the screw on the bottom of the switch has a darker screw, and on top a lighter one. this indicates it is configured with pole 1 on top and pole2 on the bottom... or to put it another way it makes/breaks left to right...just like mine.

check this with a meter before you plug it in...or you may let the factory smoke out! (really hard to get that smoke back into the wires too)

it's hard to explain this without knowing your level of electrical knowledge...so just to be clear: your system looks like it is wired wrong!!! exercise caution before plugging in!!!! if i am not making sense with the ^^^ info, let me know, i'll draw it out better.