My modified BOKA build

[Aquafish]

This is the beginning of my BOKA build. Thanks for the valuable information from you'all on this site. Feel free to critique at any step of my build. I down loaded the 2" template from this site and modified it to have a 1 1/4" space between the plates instead of the 3/4" spacing. I taped the template to the copper pipe with wide packing tape. As suggested I used a Dremel tool with an 1 1/2" black metal cutting blade at 15,000 rpms. Cutting slowly I had no problem with it cutting through the copper pipe. A steady hand is required. Mine not so steady but it came out OK. My condenser will be a 3" copper pipe, 12"+- long. This will attach to the 29 inch column via a 3" to 2" reducer. Because of the reducer my top plate will be approximately 2 7/8"s from the bottom of the condenser. The overall height of the column will be approximately 31"s when attached to the keg with a 2" tri-clamp and fitting. The overall unit height is approximately 44"s. I borrowed a 24 gauge sheet of copper from my girls jewelry making supplies and it fit like a glove in both slots. Don't think she'll miss it I hope anyway. Photo's show template and before and after cuts. That's it so far. Will try and keep up with the photo's. Thanks again Aquafish.

[Da Yooper]

Very nice start to your build, keep up the good work

[Halfbaked]

So nice.

[Aquafish]

The women gave me a little more time today and I cut out the copper plates from her 24 gauge copper. Again I used the Dremel, not sure if that was the right tool as it was difficult to hold and control, bent very easily. The copper got very hot and required pliers to hold. Very jagged edges. My unsteady hands again. I think snips would have been better choice. Regardless they came out alright. The uneven edge sticks out of the pipe and will be sanded after soldering. The point in the center of the bottom plate has been cut/recessed 1/4" into the oval past the flat edge. The attached photo of the tri-clamp and fittings will be used to attach the column to the keg, from Mile Hi distillers. A little pricey but requires no soldering. It came with an O ring but I think I still need some sort of gasket from keg to fitting. Off subject is my Russian Imperial Ale photo bubbling away. The brass fitting, another off subject item will be used in the construction but I attempted to show the difference in cleaning processes. The top fitting was submerged in ketchup, Heinz Organic, for less than 5 minutes and every part including the threads came out clean. The bottom was soaked in a 50/50 mixture of Peroxide and white vinegar for ten minutes with very little effect and then another 10 minutes. I used a small brass wire brush to scrub it to the condition you see, not worth the effort, threads dirty and inside's not clean. Ketchup all the way.

[Aquafish]

A little more progress on my build. I finally gave up trying to make a copper coil after using several different methods and several attempts. I went with the shotgun condenser as it wasn’t necessarily easier but doable on my part. The soldering was a bit tricky because of the close proximity of the parts that needed to be soldered though. I used (7) 13 inches pieces of copper pipe and flared one end of each pipe. I drilled 7 holes in two copper plates, 24ga, and cut them slightly larger that the 3” copper pipe. I then fitted the pipes through one plate and solder it in place on the 3” pipe. The plate sat on top of the 3” pipe not fitted for inside of pipe, easier soldering. I then fitted the second plate into the pipes on the bottom. These were not flared which allowed the fitting. Again it sat on top of the 3” pipe not inside. A little grinding and it fit nicely into the 3”x2” reducer. I don’t plan on soldering it to the 2” column at this point. Not sure if I should have a vented cap on top of the condenser. Next drilling and soldering the keg to fit a 1” SS half coupling.

[Da Yooper]

Nice, shouldn't need a cap or a vent. Keep it open, should knock down all vapors. 1/4 " take off? I would of went with 3/8". Looking good

[Aquafish]

Thanks Da Yooper the 1/4 inch pipe just didn't look the right size for the 3" pipe. Going to give it try and may change later if it doesn't work out. Thanks AF

[googe]

Nice work mate!! . I vote no coils! Lol. Good luck with the rest!.

[heartcut]

Looking good. I like the shotgun reflux condenser.

[Halfbaked]

DEF nothing wrong with that. Love it. Great job.

[Aquafish]

Thanks all for you comments. Next, turn keg to electric. SS 1" half coupling coming today. After a lot of research I'm going to attempt to solder the fitting to the keg, drilling hole, and using normal lead free solder but using stay clean liquid flux. Then the thing I know nothing about the controller, so much infro. here it's confusing. The only thing I want is to be able to control the wattage going to the electric heater. I'm not interested in temperature control. Haven't found a dimmer/switch/reostat? that can handle over 6000 watts and 30+ amps. A PID is the only thing I found so far in conjection with and SSR that should work but to many electronic parts for me. Need something simple for 220 volts. Thanks AF

[Litebread]

The simplest by far is a SSVR like this one - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DF ... UTF8&psc=1

Just add a potentiometer a case and a plug and you are done.

-Litebread

[Aquafish]

Thanks Litebread I've seen lots of these SSVR's online at all different price ranges and most of the reviews are not good. Finding a quality potentiometer is even a bigger task. So far I found one that will handle 6000 watts. My heater is 5500 watts and was hoping to find something with a wider watt range. Finding quality items seems to be a problem either it's cheap knockoffs or very expensive equipment. Safety is a big concern to me and I don't think these cheap products can safely hand that kind of voltage. This is my opinion, others may have had good luck with these items but I'm going to keep looking for something a little better. Thanks again AF

[Litebread]

While I've had great luck with mine I tend to share your concerns about getting a knock-off or improperly rated item. If I were to have to purchase again I'd go with this one - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=353

Auber Instruments makes good quality stuff and I've heard the customer service is top notch as well. The price is very comparable and I imagine the shipping times will be better as well... And you can order a matching potentiometer at the same time to boot. You will have to provide your own heat sink though, but that's simple enough to locate.

-Litebread

[Aquafish]

Thanks Litebread I ordered the 40A SSVr and Rheostat/Pot. from Auber. Looks just what I was looking for and a decent price,$40.00. This should be an interesting phase of the project. Thanks again.

[Aquafish]

I’ve gotten a little further along with my project. The condenser has been pressure tested and hose attachments added. I finally got the SS fitting fitted into the keg. If it weren’t for the help received from people on this site and detailed posts I would never have gotten this done. This was by far the hardest part of the project so far. The post on tinting SS is what made my attempts successful. It doesn’t look pretty but it also doesn’t leak. I put a plug in the fitting to clean out some of the debris left behind from soldering. I put quite a bit of pressure on the wrench to tighten it. Thank God it cleaned the threads. I’ve been working on the controller and though I had it figured out but NOT. Again I got help from postings and gracious individuals. I can now easily wire the controller. Getting there slowly but surely. Thanks again for all the help.