Joining the fun

still_stirrin · Post by **still_stirrin** » Mon May 12, 2014 3:43 pm

I'm another of the new hobby builders. I guess it's time to divulge what it looks like.

I put a "running gear" on the boiler...so I could move it when loaded. Also added a drain.

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This is a view of the power connection (1 of 2 on the boiler).

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A glimpse of the dual controller, with gages and stuff.

The power is regulated by a dual time constant Triac circuit. After going through the controller threads, I ordered the Triacs. In the end, I think the SSR circuit is more convenient because my circuit board got filled up with all the elements and point-to-point wiring. It's pretty crowded inside the box and that's why the fan is external as you can see.

On the 120V power I have, the current is just a touch over 9A wide open (on a 4.5kW LWD heater element). But I have 2 of them, hence the dual circuits. Each side runs from a separate 15A breaker in my shed.

still_stirrin · Post by **still_stirrin** » Mon May 12, 2014 3:47 pm

Here's a view of the boiler setup with the controller mounted on it.

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And with the pot still head mounted on it.

The shotgun isn't quite done yet, so I'm not quite ready to run it. But I hope to get some progress with the soldering this week.

Post by **White_Lightning_Rod** » Mon May 12, 2014 3:49 pm

Looks good, Ive got a couple casters laying around and have been toying adding them to the keg skirt as you have as well. Its very obvious you have done you reasearch, always great to see in guys with low post counts

Post by **T-Pee** » Mon May 12, 2014 3:50 pm

SANITARY!!

tp

still_stirrin · Post by **still_stirrin** » Mon May 12, 2014 3:56 pm

Thanks WLR & TP for the looks. I have been lurking here for a while...lurnin' a lot.

I'm anxious to get it done so I can fire it up. I did check out the controller circuits though with the boiler full of water. The two orange cords are the 120V inputs. The black are 10/3 feeds to the heater elements. With the 30A twist lock connections I can switch to 220V power if I ever get it in the shed. Sure, the controller will need a could of updates (voltmeters and ammeters, for example). But the Triacs are already 240VAC/40A rated. But if I do get 220V power, I likely won't need 2 elements at the same time. Ya think?

Post by **T-Pee** » Mon May 12, 2014 3:58 pm

Depends on the wattage.

tp

Post by **White_Lightning_Rod** » Mon May 12, 2014 4:00 pm

I run 4500w on 240v and heat up on a 8% wash is around 50-60mins or so. If you had two you could run both to heat up and then just switch one off and use your controller on the other.

Like I said youve done your research and are on the right track so keep on keepn on

still_stirrin · Post by **still_stirrin** » Mon May 12, 2014 4:03 pm

T-Pee wrote:Depends on the wattage.

tp

Sorry. I forgot to ID the elements for you: they're 240V 4.5kW LWD elements.

On 120V, that's 9.375A at 1125W. I run one each on separate 15A circuits to avoid overdraw on my shed wiring.

Post by **Halfbaked** » Mon May 12, 2014 4:04 pm

Damn fine lookin rig. If you got the power keep the elements.

still_stirrin · Post by **still_stirrin** » Mon May 12, 2014 4:09 pm

Thanks halfbaked.

The wisdom here is amazing. I've learned so much from y'all. There's a world of knowledge and experience on this sight and every day I learn something more.

Thanks everybody for sharing.

still_stirrin · Post by **still_stirrin** » Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:01 am

I owe an update to the design/build. The reflux head is done and has been cleaned and run through the paces. It performs very well, pulling 190 proof on the 39" marble-filled column. Very efficient at heat transfer too...concentric reflux condenser with a "coiled" tube-in-tube (Liebig) liquid product condenser, AND a vapor managed shotgun condenser (which can be moved to the pot still head when needed).

This combo head gives me plenty of flexibility in the run.

Here's some snaps of the reflux head and shotgun FYI.
ss