Liebig/Graham condensor
Moderator: Site Moderator
Liebig/Graham condensor
I have a question concerning a collection condensor for my LM Boka. I have read a lot about the subject and have become a bit confused. I have done a water and vinegar run so far and the output of liquid is very hot. My first wash is next and I assume it will just as hot. Do I need a condensor I understand that to take a Hydrometer reading temps are of importance. One site says it needs to be warm not cool when collected hence a hydrometer would still need to be adjusted to get a correct reading. Does it make a difference if it' s hot, warm or even cool I don't want any unnecessay attachments to the still. I also see parrots being used but these won't change the temp much unless cooled Any help would be greatful.
Re: Liebig/Graham condensor
Your hydrometer will be callibrated to give the correct reading at one temperature.
You have two options manage / leave the distillate untill it gets to the correct temperature or apply a correction factor to the measurment, this correction factor is on the piece of paper that came with the hydrometer.
With my BOK straight off the still I get 101% apply the factor and it is 95%.
I added a small cooler 15mm over 8mm and the two figures are the same, much easier.
The other aedvantage is that I find smelling hot distillate very unpleasent, it is a bit like snorting drano.
You have two options manage / leave the distillate untill it gets to the correct temperature or apply a correction factor to the measurment, this correction factor is on the piece of paper that came with the hydrometer.
With my BOK straight off the still I get 101% apply the factor and it is 95%.
I added a small cooler 15mm over 8mm and the two figures are the same, much easier.
The other aedvantage is that I find smelling hot distillate very unpleasent, it is a bit like snorting drano.
- Saltbush Bill
- Site Mod
- Posts: 10378
- Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2011 2:13 am
- Location: Northern NSW Australia
Re: Liebig/Graham condensor
I wouldn't assume to much at this stage, a water and vinegar solution, and ethanol are two very different beasts, with very different boiling temps.Aquafish wrote: I have done a water and vinegar run so far and the output of liquid is very hot. My first wash is next and I assume it will just as hot.
Re: Liebig/Graham condensor
Hydrometer measures SG, the alcometer can be adjusted to different temps with a simple table as most are calibrated to the same starting temp. Here is a table to allow for temp changes.
http://homedistiller.org/distill/dilute/measure" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Edit: Posting at same time as Saltbush Bill, he brings up a good point.
http://homedistiller.org/distill/dilute/measure" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Edit: Posting at same time as Saltbush Bill, he brings up a good point.
Re: Liebig/Graham condensor
Actually Aquafish what you are describing means that you are in fact running your still correctly. The condensate from your reflux condenser (the same liquid that you are taking as product) is SUPPOSED to be hot. However when you run alcohol through it it should not be as hot as simple water.
If your reflux condenser makes it cool, then this causes problems with the column. The fact that your product is hot is one of the unfortunate consequences of this particular design.
For this reason many folks will add in a secondary cooling system. In effect another condenser - however as the product is already liquid, it can't really be called a condenser.
Dependent on your product speed and ambient temperature you might get away with a simple air cooled coil after the valve. Another possibility is to route the product output through a tube inside the hose supplying the condenser. In effect a liebig condenser that uses a water supply that is already there.
Personally I am not sure about the need for a parrot on an LM design, but it is personal choice. You don't need to make the product cold - if you just reduce it to "warm" it can be a bit more convenient to deal with.
If your reflux condenser makes it cool, then this causes problems with the column. The fact that your product is hot is one of the unfortunate consequences of this particular design.
For this reason many folks will add in a secondary cooling system. In effect another condenser - however as the product is already liquid, it can't really be called a condenser.
Dependent on your product speed and ambient temperature you might get away with a simple air cooled coil after the valve. Another possibility is to route the product output through a tube inside the hose supplying the condenser. In effect a liebig condenser that uses a water supply that is already there.
Personally I am not sure about the need for a parrot on an LM design, but it is personal choice. You don't need to make the product cold - if you just reduce it to "warm" it can be a bit more convenient to deal with.
Re: Liebig/Graham condensor
Thanks for all the replies but apparently I didn't phrase my question correctly I know all about how to read a hydrometer and all the temp adjustments needed to get a correct readings. My question should be what is the benefit of having a devise/condensor that cools the out put of product from the still At this point it's a liquid as pointed out by myles. YHB points out there is a strong smell that could be avoided. The parent site says it should be warm not cool when collected. They also suggest it be splashed into the collection vessel to avoid fusels. So what is the benefit wouldn't you need to take the temp.of each sample you want to test to get the proper AVB If so what difference does it make how hot, to a point, it is when collected I'm a bit Your help has been invaluable thanks all
Re: Liebig/Graham condensor
Taking readings is just one more tool, collecting in small vessels to start and using your senses (taste, smell, feel) is the most important. When abv drops toward the end of the run it is an indicator that you are into tails.
- Tokoroa_Shiner
- Distiller
- Posts: 1321
- Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:02 am
Re: Liebig/Graham condensor
If you leave all your collected distillate to air out for 24-48 hours, it should all be at the same temp. Take your ABV readings then. There's not really a need for them to be precise during a run. Just need to know when it's dropping.
Must read topics for new members
The Rules By Which We Live By
Safety And Related Issues
New Distillers Reading Lounge
Have Fun, Keep Safe and Shine On
The Rules By Which We Live By
Safety And Related Issues
New Distillers Reading Lounge
Have Fun, Keep Safe and Shine On
Re: Liebig/Graham condensor
You should consider a product cooler. The distillate from your head should be very hot if your condenser is run properly. Cheap PVC is your friend. The only tricky part is drilling out a pair of compression fittings to allow your output tube to pass through the pipe without the water leaking out. I tried epoxy and it didn't work.
Here's a picture of my rig. You can see what I mean. The water passes first through the double-pipe Liebig on its way to the condenser coil at the top. My distillate comes out cool, and the temp increase in the CW temp to the top condenser is negligible.
Here's a picture of my rig. You can see what I mean. The water passes first through the double-pipe Liebig on its way to the condenser coil at the top. My distillate comes out cool, and the temp increase in the CW temp to the top condenser is negligible.
Re: Liebig/Graham condensor
My first reaction on reading the above post was not good - so let me qualify what I am sure the poster meant.
PVC is fine provided it is just in contact with coolant. Please do NOT pass hot product through PVC tube!!!!!
I will say though that there is 1 issue with PVC coolant lines. If your coolant gets hot the PVC hoses can get soft and pinch shut - restricting the coolant flow. You may be OK dependent on your coolant flow rate and pressure.
PVC is fine provided it is just in contact with coolant. Please do NOT pass hot product through PVC tube!!!!!
I will say though that there is 1 issue with PVC coolant lines. If your coolant gets hot the PVC hoses can get soft and pinch shut - restricting the coolant flow. You may be OK dependent on your coolant flow rate and pressure.