adapting electric beer keggle to accept still column

spaceship · Post by **spaceship** » Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:57 am

I'm building my first still and I want to try and use my kettle I use for brewing beer as my boiler (sankey keg with heater element installed) I would be pleased to use it for a dual purpose and not have a seperate boiler for the still. Of course the top is cut open and the 2" flange removed. The option I was considering is using a 13" stainless mixing bowl that fits over the cutout, making one of those "everlasting gaskets" and finding some way to clamp it down tight. I would either attach the column directly to the bowl or do a 2" flange. Does this seem like a good option? I know that the easiest way to go would be to get an unmolested sankey keg and get/make a 2" flange on the column, but I would like to try and use what I already have, especially since it already has the heater element installed and I've got electronics to control the power to the element.

spaceship · Post by **spaceship** » Thu Nov 13, 2014 9:00 am

has anybody come across similar projects on this forum that you could direct me to for ideas?

youngonce · Post by **youngonce** » Thu Nov 13, 2014 9:03 am

That is exactly what have done - I will try and get a pic. I put an copper bowl on top and held it down with springs. But my keg does not have as large a hole..

youngonce · Post by **youngonce** » Thu Nov 13, 2014 9:48 am

Here is what I have - I can put it on any boiler with a small hole on top.. I just use flour paste to seal with a weight..

spaceship · Post by **spaceship** » Fri Nov 14, 2014 7:37 am

thanks, that looks good

snowman_fs · Post by **snowman_fs** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:04 pm

I'm also looking for eKeggle lid options since my 3"x6' CCVM column has a triclover bottom and weights in near 20 lbs. I don't like the idea of supporting on an inverted mixing bowl. I have a sister keg that's unmodified and my propane powered boiler today. I'm willing to sacrifice it's top for a pre-made 2" triclover lid but need to devise an appropriate attachment method (and seal) to the keggle. I can probably get 1" of overlap all around to the eKeggle top if I plasma the new lid off and can get a FEP/PTFE/flour seal in there. Don't worry I'll still use the cut keg, I don't currently have a separate HLT for brewing. I would even collect my cooling water in it and use it during cleanup.

So please help with attachment options for a keggle lid. Here are some options I have conceived:
1. Clamp or attach via the handle rim of the keg. Applying down pressure to the lid, possibly with crossbars.
Con: There is no built in locating other than the curvature of the two pieces which doesn't give much stability to the column.
Pro: leaves the eKeggle un-modified.
2. Tap holes around the top of the keg and bolt the lid down like a flange.
Con: Kegs are only 1.5mm wall thickness and tap engagement would be less than ideal without a nut welded to the inside, (PITA to drill, tap and maybe weld).
Pro: Lowest profile of all options.
3. Toggle clamps around the perimeter of the lid.
Cons: I don't have much real estate between my 12" hole, 14" lid and a 15.5" keg diameter to fit the toggle(s). Also needs welding and is expensive.
Pro: sexy?
4. Weld, braze or solder a fastener to the keg lip and bolt the lid down like a flange.
Con: There would be a minor offset to deal with and blind holes could form crud.
Pro: Middle ground for garage construction feasibility and overall result.

I'm leaning towards a weld nut from #4. I can get the following in 18-8 stainless and braze maybe 8 of them around the lip. Then use a short section of pipe as a sleeve and a bolt to apply the down pressure to the lid via the sleeve. I would then need through holes or slots cut near the OD of the lid. All in for about $15 plus a gasket.

Hound Dog · Post by **Hound Dog** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 3:03 pm

snowman_fs wrote:I have a sister keg that's unmodified and my propane powered boiler today. I'm willing to sacrifice it's top for a pre-made 2" triclover lid

If you have another keg that has an unmolested top, just drill a hole in the side, silver solder a 1" nut over the hole, screw your burner into that keg and attach your sill head to the top with a tri clamp. Call it a day.

Post by **Badmotivator** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:55 pm

I think you should follow the Hound. A big lid with custom clamping and custom gasket sounds like kind of a nightmare to me. There is a guy selling ones like that on Portland OR Craigslist. Here's what his look like:

If you start with a virgin keg, you can do the following in stages and at every stage it works better than the last:

Stage 1: keg on a burner using existing Sanke flange.
Stage 2: flip it over, cut a new 2" or 3" or 6" or whatever hole on the new top and solder on a new Tri clamp flange. Attach a cap or a nice ball valve to the (now bottom) Sanke flange. Better connection to column, drain on the bottom.
Stage 3: electricity! Either a 1" nut or a Tri clamp flange for heating element.
Stage 4: bells and whistles! Sight glasses, thermowells, legs or a stand, cut off the top crown, polishing, decorating, boasting, toasting.

Post by **masonsjax** » Fri Apr 10, 2015 6:27 am

I have the same desire. I want to use a single ekeggle for beer brewing and as a boiler. I have a friend that is giving me the lid from his cut keg, so I'll just cut my hole a little smaller so there's some overlap. The best I've come up with so far is to just weld some bolts to the rim of the keg and drill matching holes on the lid and use washers and wing nuts to hold it snug. I'm definitely open to better suggestions.

snowman_fs · Post by **snowman_fs** » Fri Apr 10, 2015 1:52 pm

Badmotivator wrote: every stage it works better than the last.

Trouble is I already have stage 3+... 8.5kw ULWD, power control, whirlpool fitting, drain fitting.

I have the following thus far (Without the head shown).

I'll hold the column to the rafters with a vertical sliding loop when running but the weight of the column and lava stone seem to be a good start to the seal.

I see your point about fit on a true sanitary ferrule is better. This is about the best I can get a 2" flange to line up. It can be quite offset if you dont take care and never see this unless you have a removable top.

snowman_fs · Post by **snowman_fs** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 5:31 pm

Here is a quick trial. Some 3/4" hardwood dowels sprung through the keg handles. I have a Teflon wrapped cardstock gasket to prevent leaks. Held up leak free for my cleaning runs and was stable enough.

When the boiler really gets going though there is a little bit of sway that needs to be dampened. I used a board to apply a little side pressure to the column by clamping it to a table.

thisguy · Post by **thisguy** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 7:49 pm

What's wrong with just a flange on top for the collum and making a false bottom out of ss mesh to put over the burner when u r brewing, that way the grains stay off the burner. Then putting a valve in the side to drain it when all is said and done?

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