Differences between 2 and 3 inch?

[SaggyG]

Hey all,
I'm posing this question because I had basically designed my still. 15
gallon keg, 5500w with control, 36 inch by 2 inch column with a 12 inch
boka on top, I have height restrictions. Well today at my work Christmas
party I won some money and can put it towards my build. I have basically
ignored the 3 inch posts because I was going 2 and wanted to keep my focus
on what I was going with. I was going to order my parts this weekend but
now am wondering if the upgrade to 3 inch would be worth it. And if so
should I stay with a 2 inch head on a 3 inch column or just make it all 3
inch?
Thoughts, suggestions, links all welcome and appreciated.
Saggy

P. S.
Thanks halfbaked!

[ga flatwoods]

One inch, of course more money, faster takeoff, restricted to two inch at keg though. Why not use the extra money to make an interchangeable pot still head that is more efficient than the boka for stripping or for stainless packing?
Just some thought.
Ga Flatwoods

[SaggyG]

Well, my head was going to be joined to the column via a tri clamp so I could mount it directly to the keg for that purpose, unless you are meaning a different head design other than boka . But at this point I don't know if the 3 inch will work that way because I will need some type of 2 to 3 adaptor. I think I saw a 2 to 3 with a ferrule on top so I could still do this but as I said, wasn't planning on a 3 inch sooo yeah.

[ga flatwoods]

[woodshed]

A happy wife?

[Hound Dog]

Make it all 3". It will be worth it. If you make a 2" eventually the novelty of making liquor will wear off and the terrible slow pace will start to get to you. Before you start spinning the cylinder of the revolver or practicing making nooses , just go ahead and make a 3" so you can get your product fast enough to keep busy while making it.

[Brutal]

Yea most women appreciate the extra inch.

What are planning to make Saggy?

[SaggyG]

Thanks Flatwoods, I see what you mean now. I think for the time being I need to keep my focus just on the boka as a noob. Looks pretty simple to build at a later time once I get a little more accustomed to the whole process.

And woodshed.... Lol, the girlfriend would definitely appreciate the girth increase!

[ShineonCrazyDiamond]

And woodshed.... Lol, the girlfriend would definitely appreciate the girth increase!

At least he was kinda enough to assume it was girth you were speaking of instead of length.

That's a whole different conversation...

[SaggyG]

Been reading a little since this post. It seems the amount of production between 2" and 3" is pretty substantial. the volume of a 2" at 3' is 113.1 cubic inches, 3" at 3' is 254.4 cubic inches. Thats a lot! So for build purposes I know I can get 3" flanges and tri-clamps. Is there something to attach to the keg to make it a 3" tri-clamp so I can keep my original idea of a 36" column with a detachable head that I can mount directly to this 2" to 3" attached to the keg? And does the 2" keg outlet really matter as long as I can apply enough heat to get it in the column?
And as far as cooling, I do like dads stainless steel coil but was going to do a copper 1/4 double wound to conserve water and the heat transfer is much better than stainless steel. Also couldn't get a double wound coil in SS thats 3/8 inch in a 2" pipe. This is 12/8ths or 1.5 inches of coil so 1.5 inches to play with I could theoretically do it, that might be a possibility with about 15' of 3/8 SS flex gas line. Has anyone attemped this with 3/8 SS into a 3" column or is it even necessary for that much cooling?

[SaggyG]

And woodshed.... Lol, the girlfriend would definitely appreciate the girth increase!

At least he was kinda enough to assume it was girth you were speaking of instead of length.

That's a whole different conversation...

If you're talking length then man...this is the wrong forum. singleforever would be the place for that discussion.

[Halfbaked]

2 inch to 3 inch triclamp

[Brutal]

What are planning to make Saggy?

You never answered my question.

[woodshed]

I read the thread as girth. Just sayin.
Length is indeed another subject. Both pretty well covered with research.

[bearriver]

Generally speaking, diameter gives you takeoff rate. Height gives you purity.

Forget the money. Save up till you can afford what you want. I could build a proper 3'' boka for at or near $500. Proper research and patience will get you wherever you want to go with this hobby.

Do me a favor and play with the calcs here, at least so you know what it is that you want.... : http://homedistiller.org/calcs/reflux_calc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[SaggyG]

What are planning to make Saggy?

You never answered my question.

Sorry Brutal, missed that one. I want to start off with neutrals, vodka. Mixed with some fruits and such. The experiment chart for flavors is quite long, My GF buys a different flavor of vodka every week to try. Like sweet tarts, yeah sounds terrible but for party shots the ladies love that stuff soo there will be a jar with packs of sweet tarts floating in it lol. But eventually I would like to make some whiskeys but I haven't even begun looking on how to accomplish that. A journey for another time.

[Brutal]

If you're only interested in neutrals build the best still for that purpose that you can. Don't worry about pot still mode. If you can afford to go 3" do it.

[SaggyG]

Generally speaking, diameter gives you takeoff rate. Height gives you purity.

Forget the money. Save up till you can afford what you want. I could build a proper 3'' boka for at or near $500. Proper research and patience will get you wherever you want to go with this hobby.

Do me a favor and play with the calcs here, at least so you know what it is that you want.... : http://homedistiller.org/calcs/reflux_calc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Well the budget was around $300 but can now add to that so thats what brings up this conversation. Just doing some quick math increasing to 3" will bring it into the 400s but i am ok with that if the payout is not spending 12 hours in my garage and take it down to a couple.

That calculator blew my brain up, thanks . I must not be using it right and will play with it some more but initially the take off rate is barely changing and that cant be right.

[shadylane]

SaggyG
As new information comes in and you learn more, the game plan changes
Build the pot with a drain and fill port. Have the pot on legs high enough that you can drain it into a bucket.
That way the pot can be used to supply hot/boiling water.
Then make every thing that goes above the pot modular.
Trust me, you will be making changes.

[Shine NOLA]

Well, my head was going to be joined to the column via a tri clamp so I could mount it directly to the keg for that purpose, unless you are meaning a different head design other than boka . But at this point I don't know if the 3 inch will work that way because I will need some type of 2 to 3 adaptor. I think I saw a 2 to 3 with a ferrule on top so I could still do this but as I said, wasn't planning on a 3 inch sooo yeah.

flip the keg over and weld a 3" ferrule on it.
use the 2" for your drain
wish I had done that
may still do it when i convert to electric

[TinkerTech]

I've been working the $ numbers on a still build for few weeks. For a Dad style CCVM build in all stainless at 3", its about $290 complete (pipe/clamps/gaskets), using keg spear for product condenser, without stainless gas pipe. The same in 2" is about $200. Going copper isnt too bad if you limit it to the column and output condenser for a total of 5' of 2" (3' for column and 2' for condenser), but going beyond that it starts costing more to add ferrules to all the copper connections. Stainless really is a pretty good investment for flexibility, and it will last forever.. Brewershardware seems to have the best prices across the board for stainless.

For reference

2"/3" - 36" column pipe
2"/3" - T
2"/3" - Elbow 90
3" to 2" reducer for keg or none for 2"
2" or 3" to 1" or 1.5" reducer for keg spear takeoff and one for top of column
Rollon ferrule for keg spear, found at a couple places i.e. Grangers
A couple of gas line condensers, scrubies, water connections, and you're done.

[TinkerTech]

In response to the question on difference between 2" and 3". For me the telling bits of information about design choices was hearing multiple people with a 2" Boka and a keg, having to run the still from breakfast to past dinner before it was done, drip by drip. Of course many do run faster. On the other end you have Dad and his 3" CCVM on a keg, saying he can run a full boiler power on to power off in 3 hours. I hear this voice saying, "aint nobody got time fo that", and I have to agree..

[DAD300]

3" will more than double output.

The 2" keg should stay unmodified...so the keg is a wash price wise.

Price the 3" x 36" SS triclamp from a brew supplier (no reporting and you can have this together in hours after you get it for less than $300usd.

Brewershardware.com

2"x3" end cap adapter
3"x36" triclamp extension
3" x 36" Spool
3" x ? 3" "T"
3" x 6" spool for top...
3" x 90 deg bend for take off...

It will take 18 100gram SS scrubbies, at less than $1usd each from Staple office supply...

Most everything else is same as 2", so no price issue there. Maybe an adapter to get to PC

[myles]

I would stick with the 2 inch head but put it on a 3 inch column. The 2 inch head should have enough thermal capacity to keep the 3 inch column running just fine.

Remember it is more than likely that your 3 inch column will NOT be long enough to be "optimal". This really doesn't matter because even just cruising along at a high reflux ratio and less than max power, it is still producing faster than your 2 inch column at max power.

It is much easier to run the 3 incher nice and gently, compared to going flat out with the 2 incher.
Running any column flat out, just below the flooding point is a nervous business. It is much more user friendly if you don't need to do that.