wood used in mash pot?

[countr3y boy]

Is it safe to use wood in your mash pot? I was thinking of taking a pice of oak cutting it to fit down in the ss pot with holes drilled in the wood, and have the wood suspended a inch or two above the bottom. So then I can put my corn in a pant strainer and boil the shit out of it and not have to worry about scorching. To yall more experianced distillers wat do u think of this? Is it safe and effective any issues u c that would cause a problem? Do u think it would bleed oak flavor to the mash if it stays in the pot for 2 hours?

[aquavita]

I cannot imagine what that would taste like - yuk. I think there may be some health related issues as well.

If you need a false bottom, use some SS Screen or drill holes in copper sheet. Use some cut up 1/2' copper pipe to keep the false bottom raised. Should serve you fine.

[bellybuster]

historically, beer was often mashed in wooden tuns. I can't even imagine the cleaning regime required to keep it "bug" free

A quick google search can find some of todays mash tuns with wooden slotted false bottoms. Once again, the cleaning required wouldn't be worth it in my mind.

false bottoms can be bought premade or DIY like aquavit says

[DAD300]

I have seen wooden fermentors...and I think the idea is to not clean them. Keep them in continuous use and let good flavors grow like a dunder pit. I've even read of the wood protecting the yeast strain during non use.

Remember you're going to distill after mash and fermentation.

[countr3y boy]

Yeah iv seen wood mash boxes they used back in the day but I was concurned about heating it to boiling temp, I'm sure they didn't heat the mash boxes that mutch.

[DAD300]

I know I saw a video of a wood mash tun. Th heat came in the form of steam run through a copper coil in the tun and a "rake" used to stir it.

"The sweet wort is then extracted from the grist and pumped into one of the 5 wooden washbacks for the fermentation process. While almost every other distillery has moved to using stainless steel washbacks as they are easier to clean, Arran has gone the other way. They have decided to use traditional Oregon pine washbacks as they believe the liquid contact with wood makes for a much better fermentation. After the yeast is added they let the wash ferment from anywhere between 52 and 80 hours, the longer fermentation producing a better wash for the stills."

[Jimbo]

After the yeast is added they let the wash ferment from anywhere between 52 and 80 hours, the longer fermentation producing a better wash for the stills."

Thats a pretty common sentiment from several small Scottish distillery interviews on SingleMaltTV on Youtube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5Zzrk ... YwJFNyS1Ng" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

with a Rrrrollled Scottish tongue.... "More frrrooooty esters from longerrrr farrrrements"

[Brutal]

If the wood is exposed to boiling water each time I doubt any bugs will survive. Wood does float though. Might be a problem.

[Drunken Unicorn]

Sorry this is a little late. I've actually done something similar with a rum fermentation. I had about a third of a french oak wine stave and split it into 3 parts. I tethered each piece to the handle of my fermentation keg. I dropped the 3 pieces into the tank at the start if the fermentation. After the fermentation ended a week later, I let it sit another 2 weeks (ish) on the wood. The mash got VERY moldy (think I have pictures somewhere). After distilling it (using some thumpers), it came out very medicinal, but not unpleasant. The french oak was very present in the spirit and was never aged. Over all it was a success, but if I do it again, I'll probably use half if not less of the oak I used.

Hope that helps,

Unicorn

[bearriver]

There are many award winning spirits that use wooden vessels throughout the process, here in the states.

[jedneck]

I'm planning on building a wood fermenter after I get my sourmash bill dialed in. I'm gonna cook the grain in another barrel and try to keep the same yeast strain in the fermenter. But it is low on the list of wanna haves for this obsession.

[SaltyStaves]

Wooden washbacks/Mash tuns are not used for flavouring, they were more of a convenient material to make very large vessels. In Scotland, it was primarily Larch until they chopped it all down and then switched to Oregon Pine. In the US, it was Cypress. None of these woods give flavour and some of those washbacks/Tuns have been in use for over a century, so any flavour they once had is now long gone.
However, they do seem to promote certain bacteria which influence the fermentation, so I think there is merit in experimenting with wood in the fermenter. I've been thinking about how I can use wood in a plastic or stainless container and make sure that the wood does not absorb precious mash (something that doesn't happen if the entire vessel is wood and only has a single surface area to contact. Loosely placed pieces are surrounded by wash on all sides. Something like Oak would be out of the question, because it would soak up completely after several days. If you've got big staves in there, then you are going to be losing gallons to the wood.

Very well seasoned, tight grained tasteless wood is the way to go. The other problem is that those commercially used vessels are used daily in a controlled environment. Keeping it clean and dry at home (without being too clean) will make for an interesting challenge.

[Appalachia-Shiner]

I will be surprised if someone on here isn't using a Cypress Barrel to ferment in.
I bet Frodo has some Cypress lumber lying around...
Makers Mark has at least One old Cypress mash vat they still use. I saw one, I think they are using a couple more. It was very old and it looked the part.

[Skipper1953]

So then I can put my corn in a pant strainer and boil the shit out of it and not have to worry about scorching.

After you have boiled the shit out of your corn for a little while, you're going to have a goodly amount of starchy liquid in your pot. If that starchy liquid gets under the board at the bottom of the pot it is going to get scorched if it isn't kept moving. I think you would be better of with a wooden mash paddle than a wooden false bottom.

[jackfire57]

Very informative , seems wood fits the material bill for my false bottom now what type of wood is the question

[Chauncey]

I would suggest getting some steel screen, good and stiff. Raise it on a couple stainless bolts or copper tube offcuts. Boiling the wood will fuck it all up imo

[NormandieStill]

Very informative , seems wood fits the material bill for my false bottom now what type of wood is the question

I would avoid oak... or if you do use oak, boil the hell of it several times to get the tannins out. Personally I would go for Larch, Douglas or beech. But I live in Europe. There may be better options where you are. I would use planed timber to reduce the fuzzy areas that trap mould. And either rinse and dry it well between uses or keep it fully immerged in regularly changed water. Mould will start growing if it's damp but not wet.

[Bolverk]

Both The Distiller and The Practical Distiller recommend specifically white oak for the mash/fermention tuns and say to avoid any soft woods like pine or poplar.

[Homebrewer11777]

Compared to metal mash and fermentation vessels wood will be naturally insulated. Cheap, worked with simple tools, makes sense for applications where you are not heating the contents of the vessel from the outside If your mash process is to combine the grain with boiling water and let it rest to reach various steps I bet it would work well. I don't think they are heated over a fire.

I've tried using my false bottom mash tun for brewing distillers beer with lots of corn. For beer brewing I direct fire the pot and circulate the liquid part of the mash to the top. With more than about 15% corn in the mash grist I get stuck mash every time and have given up on using my mash tun for my bourbon recipes.

I imigine if I tried to use it the way you describe what would happen is I'd end up with a mainly impenetrable plug above the false bottom which would probably let steam generated below the false bottom escape (perhaps violently) but would not let any liquid get back below the false bottom to produce new steam. Eventually the space below the false bottom would dry and scorch.

I think what OP is trying to accomplish is more reasonably covered in the "Steam Mashing and Distilling" board. A false bottom may be a solution for steam mashing...but I'd generate the steam outside the mash tun and pipe it under the false bottom to avoid possibility of scorching.

[jackfire57]

INTERESTING

[Bolverk]

The bigger question is why? If you want to use wood, pick up a used whiskey/wine barrel on fb market place, pop out the head and boom fermentation tun. The add just enough cold water to wet the grain. Then add boiling water to hit your gelatinisation temps. After your rest add cold water to bring it down to the next for your malted grain. Rest, then add cold water to your final volume or desired temperature whatever comes first.

whiskey was made this way for far longer than with a heated mash tun.

[Chauncey]

thinking mash tun is ok because its only exposed to one side of liquid and isnt boiling it all around like a false bottom.

[jackfire57]

Ive been given a 30 gal Megapot all set up with temp probe and ball valve drain . So I can conceivably mash up 6 5gal batches . was also a long with , given a 26 gal MileHi dual purpose still and a separate copper Pots head , that we can have a great deal of fun with. Not bragging but I am a very blessed newbie. The pot came with no bottom so I intend to improvise where I can cause my wife has put me on a SHORT budget.

[NormandieStill]

thinking mash tun is ok because its only exposed to one side of liquid and isnt boiling it all around like a false bottom.

Not sure what you're concerned about. Wood is generally more prone to twisting and warping when the humidity is unbalanced from one side to another. A classic mistake with solid wooden kitchen worktops is to correctly oil the top, but not the bottom. Even glulam gets jiggy with it when you do this (speaking from experience).
A simple false bottom made from pinned / screwed oak slats on a simple base plate should be fine. Even if it does end up deformed, the worst that can happen is that the base is no longer flat. The OP (unless I'm confusing my conversations) is talking about using it to keep a BIAB off the heating elements.
Honestly, I'd be more concerned about boiling a plastic bag, than boiling wood.

[Homebrewer11777]

I've been a beer brewer for a long time and have a three vessel system that includes both a 20 gallon mash tun with recirculation and false bottom and 30 gallon brew kettle. When I started distilling I thought I would be able to use the mash tun. No dice.

Then I realized the 30 gallon kettle was just fine and no need for false bottom. Here is my process, in that kettle:
bring 24 gallons water to a rolling boil
kill heat, add 40 pounds double crushed corn and stir well
wait about an hour, stir and check temp, once below 190 add high temp enzyme and stir some more.
When temp drops to about 155 I add 20 pounds malted grains (some barley, some wheat or rye)
When temp drops to about 130 I add some glucoamylase for insurance
In the morning I use my copper wort chiller to bring temp down to pitching temp and transfer the mash to my fermentor (a 32 gallon trash can)

I've got a drill with a paint mixer for stirring and have tried heating the pot with a low flame while stirring (after the high temp enzyme) and worked ok but I've found that a good grind on your corn gets you to same place as being able to heat the mash with no risk of scorching bottom of your pot.

My pot is pretty heavy Spike kettle but I'd expect you could do similar with your megapot.