flEabay 10,000w SCR

[humbledore]

I hear you Antler24, just trying to lure you into the "dark side" of endless builds and modifications...

[Hound Dog]

I hear you Antler24, just trying to lure you into the "dark side" of endless builds and modifications...

That's not hard. My wife just reminded me that this is really another build not a modification.

[Antler24]

I hear you Antler24, just trying to lure you into the "dark side" of endless builds and modifications...

Sorry, I skipped a few messages before writing my last message lol my element install is finished, I had a buddy weld the coupling for me, but my controller hasn't arrived yet. I have wired it up directly to 240v and done 3 stripping runs on 5500w. Also rewired it for 120v and done a spirit run on 1375w.

According to my wife I'm already into the dark side! In the two years I've been researching, talking about, and collecting little stuff here and there for my pot still build she's never really been on board with it, but she lets me be.

Every time it buy a sack of sugar or cracked corn I just have to remind her: when the zombie apocalypse hits, we will be the only folks around with a means to make whiskey or rum lol. As the old fellers would say, "we got her scalled" (we're set for life) lol

[coastershiner]

Do not buy the 20.00$ digital one. I bought two of them, they claim to be able to modulate, and the display goes from 100% to 0% but the only stages are off, on at 50% and on full power. The display looks cool and I may be able to use it on something, but it does not provide the control we require.

[bearriver]

Here is a couple pics of a disassembled controller (the new type in a cage Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251251998263?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow )... The damage pictured was present at 10 hours under 5,500 watt loads. My advice, if your going to buy one, then buy three... I would just replace the broken part (what looks like a capacitor), but it's not labeled on the main board.

I'm going to have this one replaced by the eBay seller, then buy another of a different brand from a different seller on Amazon. We'll see if they hold up any better than this one did. But the way, you can now get this on Amazon with free 2-day shipping for Prime account holders. If you don't have Amazon Prime, then try it free for 30 days.

The digital controllers already mentioned are complete garbage. I got two if anyone wants them. Like BB said they are not even close to linear. If you got a SCR like Jimbo's or a SSR, just stick with what you got at least for now.

[White_Lightning_Rod]

I think it was Sambedded who tested the digital ones and determined that the problem is they are set up for single pole Chinese 50hz and the standard US 60hz so the programming doesn't translate between the two.

[S-Cackalacky]

Here is a couple pics of a disassembled controller (the new type in a cage Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251251998263?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow )... The damage pictured was present at 10 hours under 5,500 watt loads. My advice, if your going to buy one, then buy three... I would just replace the broken part (what looks like a capacitor), but it's not labeled on the main board.

I'm going to have this one replaced by the eBay seller, then buy another of a different brand from a different seller on Amazon. We'll see if they hold up any better than this one did. But the way, you can now get this on Amazon with free 2-day shipping for Prime account holders. If you don't have Amazon Prime, then try it free for 30 days.

The digital controllers already mentioned are complete garbage. I got two if anyone wants them. Like BB said they are not even close to linear. If you got a SCR like Jimbo's or a SSR, just stick with what you got at least for now.

Bear, first off, welcome back - you've been missed around here.

About the controller - have you removed the SCR module from the heat sink? I know with my older model one, there was little, if any, heat sink paste between the two. If there isn't any, that could account for it failing. When you say it had 10 hours of run time, was that a steady continuous 10 hours of running?

I'm glad you posted this. I was about to order one even though no one has really posted an evaluation of its quality. I've been running my old one on 120V with 12 gauge wiring. Maybe I'll just go ahead and convert it to 240V with 10 gauge wiring. I was hoping to buy the new one and do 240V from the git go.

Anyone else had problems with it?

[firewater69]

I have about 5-6 runs on mine with no issues, running 120v with a 2000w element.

[bearriver]

Upon further inspection it would seem to me that the blown part I pictured only controls the fan inside the SCR's case. So I rewired the fan it came with to a 12 power supply and now the unit still functions normally, according to my ammeter/voltmeter display...

About the controller - have you removed the SCR module from the heat sink? I know with my older model one, there was little, if any, heat sink paste between the two. If there isn't any, that could account for it failing. When you say it had 10 hours of run time, was that a steady continuous 10 hours of running?

Thanks Cack. No that was 10 hours over two 5 hour spirit runs of low wines. 240v, 5,500w

Nope, I haven't touched the heatsink. I can see excess thermal paste spilling out all sides of the contact point, which isn't right... Less thermal paste is more. "Overclockers" the people that supercool computer hardware to "hotrod" the chipsets say that less thermal paste is more. You get the best performance by using just enough and that's it.

It appears only the on-board power supply for the fan blew up. It's a new feature for SCR's, so I expect it to be awhile before they get all the bugs worked out. You should get the Amazon one and SJOOW 10/3 (or 10/4 if you use a enclosure fan). If it blows, Amazon will refund you or replace it within 48 hours. They usually let you keep the busted one which can be used for spare parts, which is really nice. Wiring is easy but finding the right parts can be a real pain.

[Jimbo]

How you doin Bear? Good to see you back.

JImbo

[Hound Dog]

How you doin Bear? Good to see you back.

JImbo

+1

[bearriver]

How you doin Bear? Good to see you back.

JImbo

Things have improved quite a bit in my part of the world. Been spending most of my free time messing with and documenting a couple DIY distilling projects. I'll show some of it off once I get it organized.

Got pretty frustrated when this thing popped during a spirit run today, and had to show it here. I'm relieved I got it working and the still up to finish the day. If someone else experiences this exact issue, just reroute the power to the fan and remove the blown capacitor.

[S-Cackalacky]

A few people have reported back on these. With the exception of Bear's blown fan circuitry, I haven't heard of any big problems. Has anyone run theirs long enough at this point to give a or ?

[bearriver]

The seller is sending me another to replace the first one, which still works with a 12v power supply. Considering you can now get them from the Amazon warehouse with an iron clad gaurentee and free 2-day shipping, for under $30, I say go for it. They're snazzy little gizmos. I really like that the cage will mount to the enclosure so that you don't have it hanging by the pot. Plus there is a ground screw or at least one that you can use as a ground...

Just be aware if you have an enclosure fan that it doesn't interfere with the air flow on the controller instead of assisting. The fan on these controllers blow down onto the heatsink and pull through the cage holes.

Here is an awesome ammeter/voltmeter that does not require a shunt. Its super easy to wire and doesn't take up much enclosure space. You can get these cheaper on eBay or faster on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-M ... +voltmeter" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[masonsjax]

I'm still acquiring parts for my first rig. I have this model with the fan from Amazon and an SSVR. I will build both and see which I like better. Then I'll probably give the other to a friend. I will definitely be mounting these in boxes. I don't like the idea of semi exposed hot terminals.

[S-Cackalacky]

Bear, that volt/amp meter sounds easy enough that I might even be able to install it. I might go ahead and order it and the controller. Will need to find a suitable box to mount it all in. Thanks for posting the link.

Masonsjax, I think I would keep both just to have a spare on hand. Nothing like having a controller break down in the middle of a run.

[bearriver]

Get a box from a scrap yard, or look around. You can use just about anything.

I opened my closet today and was reminded of an old security system that was mounted in there from the 90's. Its in a metal junction box with intact knockouts and door with a lock. Something like 12" x 12" x 5". Gonna rip that sucker out and replace my ghetto controller enclosure. My current enclosure is a cheap plastic box with taped up extra holes. Its a little cramped with terminal blocks, on/off/on rotary cam switches, meters, two controllers, a PC fan...

[Bushman]

I have often thought about switching my meter out for one that is digital, lot easier to read!

[Jimbo]

I have often thought about switching my meter out for one that is digital, lot easier to read!

The cheap chinese digital meters dont read RMS, be careful or youll wonder why your readings are wonky

[PacificNorthWest]

I ordered mine and did a quick test. I hooked mine up for 120V 1500 watt element. Heated real nice.

SCR did not come with any wiring instructions... fellow forum buddy hooked me with the translations. Here is a pick outlining how to hook this up at 120 V after chasing it through with my voltmeter.

SCR with pinouts for 120V

anyone have any pics of how they mounted the box?

[thepatchworkdoll]

Hi PNW
I see from your buddies info that only the hot wire goes through the controller. What do you do with the neutral. Do you just hook them together. And why the 4 terminals if you only require 2. Ive got one as well and have not wired it up yet. Any help really appreciated.
Regards
Patch

[Tokoroa_Shiner]

Two wires in, two wires out. And the ground goes to the keg/element.

[Hound Dog]

Hi PNW
I see from your buddies info that only the hot wire goes through the controller. What do you do with the neutral. Do you just hook them together. And why the 4 terminals if you only require 2. Ive got one as well and have not wired it up yet. Any help really appreciated.
Regards
Patch

Correct me if I am wrong but with 120v your neutral should just hook straight up bypassing the controler. This is why PNW shows one hot in one hot out. This should be your black wire in the US. Running 220v you are not using the neutral on the burner. You have two hots in and two out as Tokoroa said.

[blueduck]

this is so funny I just order that same one yester day and then this post pops up

[masonsjax]

The two middle lugs are tied together electrically inside the controller. Wiring two wires in and two out is equivalent to just using the two outer lugs. It's a convenient way to connect input to output though if you want to.

[bearriver]

PNW, if you use this controller, then ground the enclosure. There are convenient screws for that on the back and on the left of the input terminals.

Yes, ground the keg too.

There is no neutral.

[S-Cackalacky]

If you connect the neutral in/out, it just passes through - same as passing it through without using the terminal connections. It's just a convenient clean way of wiring it. Same goes for 240V - only needs one 120V leg.

I have the older model and connected the two sides of the ground to my heat sink. From what I understand, this newer model provides grounding screw(s) for that purpose.

[blueduck]

im going to be using it to regulate power to a 1500w hot plate to fix a cycling issue.

[Kegg_jam]

I melted my hot plate doing that. Some of them just can't handle the continuous current.

[blueduck]

[quote="Kegg_jam"]I melted my hot plate doing that. Some of them just can't handle the continuous current.[/quote
oya wow ill have to test it on a mash frist this is the hot plate I have atm http://www.brewhaus.com/1500W-Hotplate-P1029.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
guys have been modifying it to run at full power with no cycling its talked about in the wright ups about it. plz tell me this is not the type that melted on you. keg_jam