Cooling managment panel

[pulsetech]

I posted this in the flute talk thread but thought I should move it here as this panel could easily work on any cooling management still. The 3 way valve lets me switch from full reflux to partial reflux through the flow meter and also to no reflux for stripping and ripped out the tails. I also added 2 thermometers to monitor the water exit temps. To fit the cheap thermometer probes I got some 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4 reducer tees. Into those I used 1/4 x 4mm John guest fittings. These turned out better than I had hoped. They seal great and the probes are easy to remove if needed.

[pulsetech]

Photos

[pulsetech]

In operation.

[Bushman]

Well I am going to take your word for it as it looks pretty impressive. I am still trying to figure out where all those lines are coming and going? Probably easier than it looks to monitor but I like the KISS set up I have at the moment.

[pulsetech]

It's pretty simple when you look closely. 1 water supply line to the product condenser. 1 return from the product condenser. 1 water supply to the 3 way valve and flow meter. Other side of flow meter to the other side of the 3 way valve. Third side of the 3 way valve goes to the reflux condenser. 1 return from the reflux condenser. It just look messy because I had the still spun around for a photo.

[still_stirrin]

pulsetech,

Could you build a simple line sketch of the flow diagram for us? I like the notion of the 3-way valve to multiplex the cooling water. But the description is confusing and as technical as your photos are, they too are hard to follow.

Thanks for the wizardry...impressive technology.
ss

[skow69]

I see what you are doing, I think.

The flow meter functions as a very accurate valve for the water supply to the dephlegmator, but it won't allow full flow, so you bypass it with the 3 way valve, right? But what is the analog gauge laying next to the panel in the forth photo? And don't you have the water to the dephlag plumbed in the bottom and out the top? And no valve at all on the product condenser?

[googe]

Nice mate!, my coolant lines are exactly the same, minus the 3 way. I really like your temp prob idea!, might steal that . A few people else where have the flow meters, I've always wanted to try it, are you happy with the repeatability of it?. Most do in the bottom skow, can get an unstable run when flow from the top with a Plater, that's what I've found anyway. Looks cool, them ss lines are nice hey!.

[pulsetech]

Skow you are 100% correct. In theory my reflux condenser is connected backwards. Water in at the bottom and water out at the top. In practice with this particular deflag when I connected it the correct way I had no way of clearing out the air from the top of the cooling shell. This made for some inconsistent runs with hot spots on the deflag itself. It builds a nice temp gradient when running on partial reflux. The 3 way t port valve allows me to bypass the flow meter so I don't need to mess around opening it up like 20 turns. It also allows me to very easily close off all water to the deflag without messing around.
the product condenser does not have a valve anymore. I managed through some trial and error to figure out how much restriction I needed. I fitted 1 inch of 1/4 tubing inside the feed line. This acts a constant restriction. With my cooling setup I have a 1000 litre Ibc tank as the reservoir and also a heater core from a car to act as a radiator. The radiator has no fans it just relies on passive cooling. Through a long run I typically only see a rise in my water temp of 1 to 2 degrees C. This means I really don't need to adjust the product condenser.
The analog gauge you saw is installed in my water feed line after my bypass valve. This just let me set my bypass valve. It also lets me monitor my water pressure in case of pump failure or blockage. ( I don't expect either and I also have my elements wires through a flow switch). When I adjust the water flow to the reflux condenser the product condenser also receives more or less flow. I've found this to be so minimal that it just takes care of itself. For example if I have the reflux condenser set for full knock down the product condenser receives slighty less flow but it is also not doing anything because the reflux is knocking everything down. If I set the reflux condenser for no flow ( pot still mode) the product condenser receives slightly more flow. But it's also receiving more heat load.
I willl make a basic line drawing shortly when I get to work. I also plan on doing a YouTube video tonight when I do another run.

[pulsetech]

Nice mate!, my coolant lines are exactly the same, minus the 3 way. I really like your temp prob idea!, might steal that . A few people else where have the flow meters, I've always wanted to try it, are you happy with the repeatability of it?. Most do in the bottom skow, can get an unstable run when flow from the top with a Plater, that's what I've found anyway. Looks cool, them ss lines are nice hey!.

very happy with the flow meter mate. If I set it to 1 lpm then move the 3 way to off or to bypass and move it back it goes back to exactly 1 lpm. If I turn off the pump and then the next day turn it back on it goes exactly back to 1 lpm. As most guys who run a flute know repeatable results rock. My run is so simple now. I switch on the pump and set the 3 way valve to full reflux. It stays like this until my column is up to temp and my plates are loaded and equalised. Then I move the 3 way valve to the partial reflux position and set my flow meter to 1.6lpm. This puts me in 95% reflux to bleed off the fore shots. Once the fores are done I set the flow meter to .8 lpm to take off the heads and hearts. Once I'm in the tails I move the 3 way valve to the off position and rip the tails out. The only thing that changes run to run is my start up water temp. This will slightly alter my flow rates but I can monitor the exit temps and adjust accordingly.

[googe]

Sounds really good great setup mate, well done!.

[pulsetech]

Just a Quick line drawing in Paint

** Edit ** added in the Radiator in the picture.

[pulsetech]

Links for the parts I used.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-LCD-Digi ... 461e4f0cfd Thermomter
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301191810726 ... EBIDX%3AIT Flow meter
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111346479056 ... EBIDX%3AIT 3 way valve
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121338667131 ... EBIDX%3AIT Reducer Tee's
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121343141297 ... EBIDX%3AIT John Guest
I also bought some other stainless fittings from the same seller on Ebay. I have been happy with everything I have gotten from that seller
Of course I have no affiliation with any of these people. Im more linking just if anyone wanted to know what parts I used

Pulse

[pulsetech]

I received a Pm asking how I mounted the 3 way valve.

What I did was pretty easy. I removed the nut for the handle a drilled a 3/8 hole in my panel for the shaft to poke through.
On the valve I bought it has a flat section just under the handle that I guess is there if you wanted to lock out a particular
location on the valve. I drilled 3 holes through my panel and into this section and mounted the valve to the panel with
8/32 SS socket head caps screws with nuts and washers. I was going to drill and tap the valve but being SS I didn't want to break
off a tap in there so I just went with nuts and washers. The valve handle cleared the heads of the bolts pretty easily. I would have used
button head screws but I didn't have any on hand.

[googe]

Awesome.mate, thanks for sharing the links and info

[still_stirrin]

+1.

Thanks for the line drawing. It looks fantastic.

One question for you though, you ran the bypass circuit from the pump back to the radiator. I thought the bypass circuits usually circle the pump: outlet to inlet. I could see that if you have significant loss of pressure in the condenser piping circuits that you could end up pushing water towards them instead of back to the reservoir. Does the pressure control balance the pressures so you keep a positive flow through the condensers?

Thanks again for showing the network.
ss

[skow69]

Sweet! Nice job.

[Jacksonbrown]

I would move the bypass valve too. Either straight to the tank or just to the inlet of the pump which can also help with priming. That'll make your radiator work a lot better too as the delta t from air to inlet water will go right up. Your RC might build up with a lot dissolved air coming out of solution over a run too, the way it's piped up from the top to bottom. Counter current is a waste of time in a condenser unless your sucking more heat out of the condensate.
I'm doing something very similar but with an auto control valve and an Arduino. With proper flow meters I can actually dial in a specific RR rather than guessing temps.
Depending on your flow switch type you might want to add a check valve in there too, thermosyphoning and draining back might not trip the switch.

[pulsetech]

The picture does not really explain the location of the bypass valve. The pump is submerged so a loop back is not possible.the bypass valve is straight after the tank and actually just returns into the last few inches of the return line before the tank. The feed and return lines go up and over a wall. The flow switch is a directional paddle type.
The rc is plumbed into the bottom and out the top.

[Jacksonbrown]

It sounds like you've got yourself a great system. Lots of control and very repeatable.
I've also got a rotometer in my junk box that I never got around to using.
Did you drill out the collet fittings so the temp probe goes right through?
If so how did you go about that and did it disturb the gland?
I used equal tees and have the flow coming into the end to create a bit more turbulence at the probe. Not really possible with a reducing tee though. You could turn yours 180 though to prevent any air being trapped.

[Danespirit]

You made a beautiful device, Pulsetech..
I like the clean stainless look, with the braided pressurehoses.
My plan was to use some 6 mm for my rig, but...i'll wait till the pricetag goes a bit down.

[pulsetech]

In regards to the John guest fitting I drilled a 4mm hole from the underside until it only just broke through.
it works well if it's just left alone but with the probe down further the response time is faster.

[pulsetech]

The braided hoses are use here in Australia to connect dishwashers and toilets ect to mains pressure water.

[Jacksonbrown]

Yeah, I'm pinching that one. Bunnings snag for breaky

[pulsetech]

The ones with the 90 degree bend are the best. I want to change a few of mine when I get some extra cash

[pulsetech]

For anyone who wants to try a panel like this I highly recommend that you place some form of screen filter inline before the flow meter. I just had to pull mine apart after a run and clear out some small flowers that have fallen from the tree above my water tank. The tank is sealed fairly well but the crap gets in.

[pulsetech]

I think I will put mine right before my balance valve so I can see any pressure drop if it plugs up. My flow switch will still kill the boiler element if there is no flow regardless of pressure. I have an analogue pressure gauge inside that I monitor.

[Jacksonbrown]

Why not put a y strainer on the outlet of you pump? They're cheap on ebay these days.

[pulsetech]

A Y strainer is exactly what I'm going to use. My pump is submersible so I will put the strainer at the first junction in front of the bypass valve