Cover for Electric Element

[Bushman]

I am currently working on a design for a company that will make a cover to fit over the heating elements for those of us that have gone electric. Currently I do not still on the grain for fear of scorching the element. The company I am working with can produce screens with diameter ranging from ½” to 20” with slot size of .002” to 3/8”. The flow direction typically from the outside to inside. However, screens can also be made to have the flow from the inside to outside too.

[bearriver]

I'm very interested in what they/you come up with Bushman!

[Odin]

Nice!

Odin.

[pfshine]

Very cool idea. Just thinking here. You would have to have at least a 2" triclamp for it to slide through and only straight elements for it to slide over it, unless it was a clamp over type screen.

[likker liker]

Interesting thought, I'm curious as to the rate of heat tranfer?

[S-Cackalacky]

If you had a very dirty wash, I can see something like a fine straining screen becoming quickly clogged with sediment and restricting the flow of liquid.

[Bushman]

If you had a very dirty wash, I can see something like a fine straining screen becoming quickly clogged with sediment and restricting the flow of liquid.

That might be a concern, the company deals with these designs for other applications.

Very cool idea. Just thinking here. You would have to have at least a 2" triclamp for it to slide through and only straight elements for it to slide over

That might be the way to go for most folks here but my rig is not attached that way but I have used a 1" half coupling so I need to go out and look at my rig as I am hoping I have enough exposed thread that I can thread it from the inside. My keg has a 4" opening at the top so I should be able to reach down and hand screw it in.

[Odin]

I think burning can take place in two situations or under two conditions. First of all, when the mash does not yet cook. In that case the liquid (and grains) do not move around, thus increasing the risk of scorching. Secondly, it is the grains (or herbs) that get on top of the heating element (decending) that do the harm, when they stay on top of that heater.

For me this would suggest that you need openings at the bottom of the cover. Maybe.

But there's always size of those holes to take into account. Smaller and many, almost like a filtration screen would be best: access of liquid to the heaters, but no chance of grain particles getting in and getting stuck. Material like this? Well maybe without the galvanization?

http://www.terrariumdesigner.nl/product ... LVANISEERD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Odin.

[Jimbo]

Interesting, will be following this progress eagerly. The last 2 things that scorched on me were slippery washes high in gluconase but nearly absent any definable particulate. The 'slime' builds up on the element into a thick black burnt layer that you can peel off afterwards. Presumably some intial molecules scorch and stick, and become the seeds for others to stick to and the build up starts, but thats just speculation.

[Bushman]

Jimbo if they are able to build my design it will screw into the back side of my 1" half coupling thus I should be able to remove it for inspection and proper cleaning between runs.

[bearriver]

NorCal brewing sells custom false bottoms. One available feature includes a cutout that fits a 5500 watt ULWD heating element under it. I wonder if they can prevent a scorch with grain on the false bottom. I'm considering sending them an E-mail...

[Bushman]

Just sent a sketch to the company that makes the screens with my specifications. We will see what the cost is going to be!

[Bushman]

OK, below is the sketch I am having built, what is not shown is the cap on the end and the screen that will cover the ribs. Assuming the slot size is .002” (50 micron) and the outside diameter of the screen is 1.90” OD. This screen cylinder can withstand a collapse pressure of 5105 psi. As mentioned earlier it will screw into the back side of my 1" half coupling. The beauty of this design is it not only will allow me to still on the grain but when making botanicals such as gin and absinthe I can also just add the herbs to the still on the spirit run thus eliminate the need for a gin basket.

[Odin]

Genius!

[Bushman]

The quote for a single item was a bit high, think I will try to build something myself as another thought came to mind. Slipping it on and off for cleaning may not be as easy as I first thought since the element goes more than 1/2 way across the keg I would need something that is slightly flexible to fit on or everytime I wanted to remove it I would have to unhook the heating element and remove it. It may never need to come off but until I test it I won't know.

[InglisHill]

If your element used a triclover fitting you could incorperate the screen into the seal, PTFE then stainless mesh. I can see what you are trying to do, I have some mesh, although not ideal for this application, I will have a muck around during the week and see what I come up with

[pfshine]

If it was a clamp over with a hasp you would have no problem putting it on. Also most half couplings are tapered so you would have to deal with that.

[Bushman]

My current thought is using a 1/2 coupling and building it in two parts with threaded ends and holes drilled around the pipe with a screen wrapped around it. This will make attaching and removal easy! My only design research is figuring out how to attach the screen to the drilled pipes.

[hellbilly007]

Perhaps the screen could be mounted directly across (180 degrees) from the element coupling. Creating a sleeve to insert the element in. Seems to me it would make for simpler inspection of the element.

Edit to add: One could also use a large enough screen in diameter to use a wavy-type ULWD element.

[bellybuster]

just saw this

the mesh in my Brew in a Basket system is 400 microns, you say you are using 50 microns. With the 400 Microns bubbles accumulate under the mesh during any boiling, these bubbles are able to pass around the outside of the basket no problem. Wort easily passes thru the mesh and I grind my grain very fine. Scorching is not an issue (constant recirculation during temp controlled mash)
With 50 micron mesh you will not be able to boil at all or your element will be high and dry as the bubbles will not pass thru easily. I would also hazard a guess that clogging will be an issue, thats some pretty fine mesh.
If you've already done tests, please disregard. Just would hate to see you waste money.

[Bushman]

just saw this

the mesh in my Brew in a Basket system is 400 microns, you say you are using 50 microns. With the 400 Microns bubbles accumulate under the mesh during any boiling, these bubbles are able to pass around the outside of the basket no problem. Wort easily passes thru the mesh and I grind my grain very fine. Scorching is not an issue (constant recirculation during temp controlled mash)
With 50 micron mesh you will not be able to boil at all or your element will be high and dry as the bubbles will not pass thru easily. I would also hazard a guess that clogging will be an issue, thats some pretty fine mesh.
If you've already done tests, please disregard. Just would hate to see you waste money.

I haven't and the quote came back to high so figured I would build myself. I also found the 400 micron mesh and figured I would use it.

[bellybuster]

pretty sure you'll find 400 more than adequate as a filter. My only concern would be the bubbles causing the element to be dry.
Ebay has some pretty reasonable prices on SS mesh

[Bushman]

Update: I ran into a few problems. My heating element is a 5500w from Lowes, I welded a 1" half coupling to the side of my keg and attached the heating element. With my current design I have two problems.
1. The ID of the 1" coupling will not allow me to slide the design over my element.
2. I bought a second element to see if I could modify it so when I went back to where I bought the 1" coupling I found out the threads are close but not exact so I must have forced the threads on my current boiler.

My next design that I am working on will be attach with a ferrule similar to this (1-1/2 or 2") threaded ferrule below. I will need to get a cover and drill threads that will match the heating element.

This will allow me create a filter that will easily slide over the element.

[raketemensch]

If you're doing product development for something to help distillers with their keggles, something like this in stainless steel would be incredible:

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-7223-Univer ... B000BQMK9C" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

There's nothing like them out there, and they would allow us to attach heating elements without welding or soldering. That universal kit is used widely already, even though they rust fairly quickly. A proper one would sell a lot of units, IMHO.

Also, don't forget that a lot of us use elements with bends in them for lower watt density. It seems that some still makers are making some nice, fairly heavy-duty stainless peieces for them to screw into, but they're often too deep for a bent element to fit through, like so:

I've seen quite a few distilling shops making those electric conversion plates like the one you've posted, but I've never seen anyone make a nice copper/stainless piece of kit like that universal adapter kit.

Edit: I totally mis-read your OP, sorry.

[bearriver]

There is a Tri Clamp bulkhead fitting on the market for $40.

[FreeMountainHermit]

Could something be adapted from the product line of this company ?

My mind is somewhat out to lunch ATM.

Let your creative juices flow, gentlemen.

I currently have a couple of PMs going on this very subject in the last few days.

https://utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewing ... ltercombos" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[FreeMountainHermit]

Or possibly something like this using a 2 inch ferrule ???

[Bushman]

I can't open the attachment FreeMountain.

[FreeMountainHermit]

PM sent, Sir.

[bearriver]

Sold American. Ill take 2... That thing is brilliant FMH. Tell us more!