Soldering

[gmm213]

So I decided to throw this here. Couldn't decide if it fit anywhere better. I am wondering about soldering. I am building a keg with 5500w heating element. I was going to solder the copper adapter to the SS keg. I have never done soldering like this before. I have soldered many many electrical components and welded various metals together. Can anyone give me any tips or tricks related to either of these processes in the soldering of my adapter to my keg.

[still_stirrin]

Take this to the construction forum. You'll have much to study there before asking.
ss

[Danespirit]

+1 Still stirrin
The most important tip is: Clean,clean and clean...any grease and the solder won't stick.
A youtube video that might be helpful to you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gv87yVkyJR0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Another here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIkvP55UbxM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
There are many others, but those two guys do it the right way... and a lot of info if you use HD google search.

[kiwi Bruce]

Put in an advanced search under soldering, you'll have a fair amount of reading to do, but there is some good info there. My advise is find some scape and practice on some metal that doesn't matter. Try different heat sources. I personally like propane and oxy/propane but I find oxy/acetylene too hot. You'll be using a lead free solder, stay-brite is a silver/tin mix that was designed for the dairy industry to solder SS, you will also need the stay-brite flux. SS to copper is tricky, so practice and get a feel for it first. You say you've done soldering and welding before, you'll do Ok....after all it's not rocket surgery.

[Condensifier]

What kind of adapter? A sankey keg is ready for a 2" tri-clamp, maybe it would be easier to solder an adapter to your still and keep your keg unmolested.

[gmm213]

A water heating element screw in flange. I guess not an adapter. I always call it that for some reason. Why did no one yell at me and tell me theres a sticky on soldering up top. Man im getting to old for this. lol

[ben stiller]

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=19656" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... +soldering

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... +soldering

Probably the best one out there:

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... t#p7224092

[S-Cackalacky]

Stainless to stainless might be a more durable option. There's a threaded flange(?) called a "welding spud" that should work well for installing your heating element. I think it was Humbledore who used one for his electric build. Search his topics and you should find what you need.

+1 on the Harris StayBrite #8 solder and the StayClean liquid flux. Ebay has a small kit that includes the solder and flux for about $12.

Good luck with it.

[Condensifier]

Here's a good thread by bellybuster. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =2&t=36347" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

There's a link to a video in there, too.

[just sayin]

I have had great luck with solvent cleaning the stainless, really disrupting the surface of the stainless with coarse abrasives, wet with Harris Stay Brite flux, very gentile heat and tin or wet surface with silver bearing lead free solder. I clean up the Stay Brite flux and use regular Johnson's zinc chloride based flux and lead free tin97/copper3 solder to fill between tinned copper and tinned stainless. Cheap, clean and strong. No failures to date.

[gmm213]

Thanks for all the great answers and links. Looks like Ill be doing some reading. Good thing I dont do anything at my job.

BTW Hobby, I love that thread especially the video, seein thats how I learn. Thats has answered all my questions on the subject.

[Hound Dog]

. Looks like Ill be doing some reading. Good thing I dont do anything at my job.

Hmmmm Government job? Politician perhaps?

[SaltyStaves]

+1 on the Harris StayBrite #8 solder and the StayClean liquid flux. Ebay has a small kit that includes the solder and flux for about $12.

I don't believe the small kit is #8 solder. Its just the standard Stay-Brite.
I'd love to be able to get #8 in a smaller quantity.

[S-Cackalacky]

+1 on the Harris StayBrite #8 solder and the StayClean liquid flux. Ebay has a small kit that includes the solder and flux for about $12.

I don't believe the small kit is #8 solder. Its just the standard Stay-Brite.
I'd love to be able to get #8 in a smaller quantity.

I stand corrected. But, it works.

[shadylane]

I hate soldering copper to SS. But when I forced to here's my way.
Pre-tin the copper part first. Buff the SS with a flap wheel. Use flux made for SS. Figure out how to mechanical hold the copper to the SS. Apply heat to the copper until the solder on it flows onto the SS.

[SaltyStaves]

I stand corrected. But, it works.

I certainly hope so. I have some I want to use on a copper frustum and I hope its going to be able to fill up the gaps. Number 8 would be better suited, but the cost is prohibitive.

[Danespirit]

I hate soldering copper to SS. But when I forced to here's my way.
Pre-tin the copper part first. Buff the SS with a flap wheel. Use flux made for SS. Figure out how to mechanical hold the copper to the SS. Apply heat to the copper until the solder on it flows onto the SS.

Some steel wire gets handy in situations, were the parts are a PITA to hold with clamps.
Simply wrap the wire around, through or whatever, to get a hold on the parts, flux and solder.