6" pressed flange copper modules

[emptyglass]

I've been working on a new product aimed at the craft distillery level.

sight glass module

module, side view

reflux condenser/dephlegmator

plain module/spacer

clamp

still

Please excuse the picture of the full still, as I have not had a chance to jazz the image up yet. This was the first full still to leave the workshop.
The still pictured is a gin still, it has the optional packable section and botanicals basket.

To carry on about the benefits of copper would be preaching to the choir. These are well known.
The benefits of modular/sectional stills are well known to most, they can be configured from a neutral making still to a flavoured product still, to a pure pot still in a matter of minutes.
Most of us also know the advantage of using plated columns of a large diameter.

What may not be apparent is the modules we are making with the pressed flanges overcome a lot of problems associated with how these stills are constructed.
They are pressed from the copper tube, there are no welds to fail.
The pressing process makes them inherently very strong.
There is almost full copper contact with the vapour.
They have nice clean lines when assembled, no ferrules or fittings to detract from the eye.
They are compatible with other triclover style stills made from stainless parts.

And they are copper.

No attention to detail is spared, even down to the length of the window mounts (shortest around). The condensers maximise the available length available and include extended tubes for drip pattern control. We are supplying them with perforated (sieve) stlye plates, but can supply blank plates for those who wish to install bubble caps.

Unfortunately with orders for full stills already placed, we cannot supply individual components as yet, but these will become available as the workshop catches up.

We do export from Australia to USA, within the law. Given exchange rates, we can offer very attractive pricing.

Any questions about the units, post here, any sales inquires please pm me.

Cheers.

[DAD300]

Very beautiful and I certainly applaud the investment...

[MichiganCornhusker]

Beautiful work, EG! Must have been a helluva lotta work to be able to produce the ultimate in simplicity.

[bearriver]

I absolutely love the idea and design. Very, very nice.

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction."

[FreeMountainHermit]

empty, I hope I'm asking this correctly.

Will your metric components connect to our US pipe/tubing ?

Thanks, FMH.

[emptyglass]

Thank you gentlemen.

They have taken some significant time and investment to bring to the market, but its more about making fine distilling gear as far as I'm concerned.

I enjoy making products that perform as good as they look, I'm not into here say or puff and fluff. I'm confidant to say the 4" range of still made here have not let anyone down, both in claims of performance and quality.

Time on the test bench has been limited for these at this point, so I'll not make any representation on their performance as yet, but you can be sure that if I do state any production rates, they will be under rated.
I prefer the end customer gets more than whats stated out of them.

[emptyglass]

FMH, these will connect to standard triclover sizes, they are made to suit them.

They will not clip to a piece of US standard 6" tube with say, an easy flange.

"Triclover" is originaly an American standard, they will suit these fittings (still dragon, etc).

Its a confusing thing when crossing tube standards. I am hoping to be able to make "copper triclover ferrules" available that slip into American DWV tube, but it seems American Type "L" tube might have some issues. Nothing that cant be overcome with some effort and thought though.

I hope this answers the confusing question well enough.

[raketemensch]

That is some truly beautiful work.

[Deerhunter]

I like......I like it a lot!

[Bushman]

EG, I have got to make it to your neck of the woods and check out your work area as I am looking at a thing of beauty. For 5 years I have thought your work was very good but you have really moved to another level!

[Stainless dude]

As per usual unbelievable EG

Yep, I agree Rock. Unmatched quality, I would be proud to own one!!

[DSM Loki]

Absolutely stunning.

[piperdave]

So impressed...

[thecroweater]

Not sure what you mean EG, ferule flange sizes are standard regardless of the exact tube diameter aren't they. to me tube and pipe should flange up (triclamp) together the same as OD ID do long as the flange is the same

[emptyglass]

Croweater, yes, these will clamp to any regular 6" triclamp (triclover) ferrule, using standard gaskets.

If someone was using American 6" tube, which is 6.125" OD, and formed a flange on it, they may not clamp up to that without some messing around. Probably a rare situation.

[harley03]

This is very beautiful, but unfortunately so are copper not a suitable material to use for this type of joints because copper it is simply too soft

Ferrule - clamps pinch not as round pipe joint since they consist of 2x halves that are pressed against each other - inward, and this means that the pipe joint would become oval/note round and has simultaneously a distillation plate sitting between each module so it is not a question of it leaks, but When it starts to leak, the seal just gets thinner and thinner with time and plate retains its thickness. ...

Self then I have 8 "joints with ferrule - clamps, and I have “specially” ordered 8" ferrule with more ss material - thicker ss goods, simply because so they will retain shape/round after a number of openings and closings over time and then you do not need to be worried that the ferrule - clamp does not fall exactly in the same position as the last of which said it consists of 2x halves are clamped against each other - inside and some plates seated between these 8 "ferrule is unthinkable in my world, it does not feel certain that it is tight ... ..

Now I am legally manufacturers and users of the distilling equipment so this maybe work for hobby use....

But it is relly Beautiful to look at

Cheers from Sweden

[harley03]

Would not it going to change the way you squeeze the plates together with so it will be tight, this copper is very nicely without a doubt ....

If you used the 4pc halves ( insted of 2pc ring with hole for bolted connection) that was bolted together so the clamping force was only toward to halves and not inwards the column center then this could work perfectly.

Only a tip in best of intentions, because then you can let make these 4pc halves youself too and dont need to buying Chinese made Clamps!

Cheers from Sweden

[emptyglass]

This is very beautiful, but unfortunately so are copper not a suitable material to use for this type of joints because copper it is simply too soft

Thanks for the tip Harley, but its sad you give advice on something you haven't tried.

The copper work hardens from the pressing process and becomes exceptionally strong. They well and truly take the clamping forces and the weight of the still.

It is good to know you still import your parts from Asia, so I can be comfortable knowing you wont be copying this design.

Split ring clamps for the sight glasses are on the horizon, this will be a customer choice soon if all goes well

Thank you for your positive comments

[harley03]

I've tried this on Swedish 4 "/ 108mm copper pipes with 2.0 mm wall thickness and I pressed out my flanges about 12mm without heating / anneal the tube before ... so the copperpipe was hard copper pipe before....

I found that this was nothing for the me! becouse they were simply ovate / note round after a number of screwing together and removing components with tightening 4 "clamps .....

It was then a started to think of use bolted ring insted of clamps so a get the pressure in "right place" direction/ to the sealing and Note to the centrum of the column from 2pc halves like it is with clamps... and in yours case than 4pc half should work good i think!

4-6pc ss m6 is more than enought to get the pressure in "ringht" place/direction from 2pc ring cutted to 4pc halves.

Yeas Copper is rely lovley material but is is also soft and yours modul is rely nice to looking to and give maximun copper contact.

Cheera from Sweden

[Saltbush Bill]

Excellent work EG, as always stunning to look at and a quality all the way

[emptyglass]

The thing is Harley, these flanges have a groove pressed into them which gives the gaskets a place to locate in, keeps everything concentric.

They also have an outer flange that stiffens the structure.

The plates are clamped on the circumference, as the clamps tighten the gasket creates good sealing pressure, the thickness is designed so they dont interfere with the flange's ability to seal.

Given they are not flat flanges that you have tried, they dont go out of shape. Flat flanges will do this on big stuff, they are not up to the task.

Not sure if you understand how copper hardens, but forming is a great way to restore copper to its fully hard state. Alloy 12200 is more than up to the task.

I have been trying to get away from installing flanges as there is a welded joint that can fail, no matter how stiff the Asian ferrule is.

Thank you for mentioning what you have, its given me a chance to explain how these modules are as good as they look.
I'm sure if you have had these concerns, others have too. Thanks for helping Harley

I look forward to the results of performance testing that will happen in the next week, then I will be able to confidently share what these stills can produce with those watching this thread.


Rockchucker has a good point, maybe Swedish copper is not so good

[FullySilenced]

On the side of safety I asked Emptyglass about the copper pressed flanges...


His reply was after making many hundreds of them in sizes from 2" to 6" he has never has had a single failure.

So until there is a problem, I see this as a "NON ISSUE"

FS

[LWTCS]

Looks beautiful as always.

[googe]

I never noticed the flanges on the edges of the 4" , that would.make it very strong empty!!!. I can say from.testing that normal flared over edges are strong, filling a keg with water and swinging off the column and it was as strong as ever, these would be so much more so!. You should never clamp.modules hard enough to worry about distortion or squashing issues. When's the first run Emlyn. Good luck.

[emptyglass]

Two whiskey stills, one vodka still

[bentstick]

they are work of passion for the hobby and for the pros out there that get the chance to have one of your kits EG! You sir have set the bar rather high on what is possible with a alot of sweat and hard work to make the best you can! Should be a eye opener for the masses Cheers cobber!!!!

[Bushman]

Beautiful, I have a question obviously it shouldn't matter but why are your lines in and out on your product condenser on the opposite side. I've always put mine on the outside away from the column just mainly for ease of attachment.

[DeepSouth]

That looks great. Is that just bare brushed copper, polished, or some type of lacquer finish? I'd like to see pictures of your dies that you use for pressing if you don't mind sharing.

[emptyglass]

Beautiful, I have a question obviously it shouldn't matter but why are your lines in and out on your product condenser on the opposite side. I've always put mine on the outside away from the column just mainly for ease of attachment.

The lines in and out can be orientated for best convenience bushy. They are pictured this way just for the photo.
They can be turned around to suit, theres no limitations other than the clamp position. The fittings are placed as close to the header plates as possible, this eliminates dead spots in the condenser/s and allows the maximum effectiveness and thermal properties they have to offer. This does cause a clash with the clamp wingnut

As I've said before, you are more than welcome to call in if you are down this side of the world

That looks great. Is that just bare brushed copper, polished, or some type of lacquer finish? I'd like to see pictures of your dies that you use for pressing if you don't mind sharing.

The standard finish is brushed and lacquered. Lacquering gives a durable finish that holds up well. It does have limitations, but unprotected copper needs a great deal of upkeep.
Mirror polish is available but only when ordering. Mirror polish can only really be done properly from the start. They can be supplied in raw "mill finish" for those that dont need fancy looks and just want performance.
As for the dies....

[cranky]

That is so cool and very well thought out, I think you are going to make a fortune on those, Emptyglass.