My Build Question

[Iowa]

New here. I have built a 25gal pot still from a SS stock pot. I made the
cape, neck, and cap out of copper. Out of the cap I have a vertical 1' tall piece of
copper tubing to a 90deg elbow with reducers down to half inch copper quick
disconnect. This elbows to a 28" long Liebig condenser. Half inch ID and 1
1/2" OD pipe on the Liebig. This is working pretty good, but have noticed
some vapors out the end. And product is warm to touch.

So. My question. I'm currently making a 20" long Gatling gun condenser.
Seven 1/2" tubes inside a 3" pipe.

Can I keep 3" piping to my condenser? And after condenser reduce down to
half inch pipe?

Thanks! I really love reading the build threads here and will be making a reflux column in the future!!!

[Bushman]

I am guessing you are talking about your RC (reflux condenser) which that design would be called a dephlagmater run on a CM still. Yes to keeping it at 3" but as as the vapor passes through I would not immediately reduce to 1/2" until you get closer to your product condenser. My slightly smaller than 4" dephlagmater slides into my 4" column and at the top of the column reduces down to 1" through the bend then reduces again at the product condenser. Just the way I did it.

[Condensifier]

Yes, you can go from a 3" shotgun condenser to 1/2" but a 3" x 20" shotgun is pretty big and is going to weigh a lot when filled with water and might put a lot of stress on the other components if they're too small or weak. What size are your riser and elbows, etc.?

I use a 15" x 2" shotgun on my 3" plated and I also use it with a 3" packed column and it knocks down everything I throw at it easily.

Edit: Posted at the same time as Bushman.

[Iowa]

My riser from my cap is 3" pipe. 1' tall. To a 3" elbow. Then reduces down to 1/2" right now to my liebig condenser.

I'm looking to take the reducer out of the elbow. Add 3" pipe to another 3" elbow to my 3" gatling condenser. Then after the condenser reduce to 1/2" for product drip.. I also have copper mesh in the 1' tall copper riser out of my cap.

[Iowa]

Here's a pic of my still cap.

[Iowa]

I have my still located under my covered deck. I have an eye bolt in the floor joist above the still and use a piece of rope to hold the weight of condenser. So yes. It will be heavy and I do understand that..

[still_stirrin]

Iowa,

Necking down from your 3" riser to 1/2" will choke the vapor flow (not good). Expanding from the 1/2" to your shotgun condenser will initiate condensation (beneficial).

Somewhere in between 1/2" and the shotgun's diameter (it looks like 2" in the photo) would be better. In fact, a 2" diameter lyne arm would be ideal...vapor velocity will be slower and flow into the PC shotgun better, steadying the product output. Plus, you'll be able to push more power better utilizing your powerful shotgun.....and accomplish your runs quicker.

Maintaining the diameter 3" would also work well, although the cost to fabricate would be greater. Your option is OK.

Be safe. Be responsible. And be discrete.
ss

[Iowa]

Yes. My runs are very long with my current set up. That's why I'm going larger. I will stay with 3" to my condenser. Re-use my reducer from 3" - 1/2" at the end of the condenser. Or should I not reduce to that small at the very end??

[DAD300]

As said you could let the distillate drop right out of your 3" shotgun...but I would assume you will NEED some back pressure.

If there is no resistance on the output, and especially if the shotgun is completely vertical, vapor can find it's way through a 1/2" tube without condensing. Consider attaching it at an angle other than vertical. This also gets the distillate away from the boiler.

But, if needed, you can always add a little back pressure very easily. Reduce the tube from 3" to something less and it doesn't have to be a seal leak proof joint. Some pro units have a 3" to 3/4" reducer and it has holes in it at the 3" end as a vacuum break.

You could add a piece of scrubbie to each 1/2" tube or a piece of gauze at the output, only as needed.

I go from 2" to 1/2" and I still need some resistance. I add gauze at the reduced output of my shotgun.

[Condensifier]

Here's an example of a 3" shotgun pc that I believe has a 1/2" exit on it and works good. Of course there are many variables with different stills so what works well for one might not work well for another and this still is a reflux not a pot still.

Mr P's Fu Man http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 17&t=29940" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Iowa]

Here's a few pics of the condenser and head put together. It is pretty heavy. I will support it with something.

Let me know what you think. I'm new. So go easy. LOL.

Oh. And don't ask what that bead of weld is around the condenser adding another 2". Never plan on making an 18" condenser. Then buy 5' lengths of 1/2" tubing and divide them by 3. Thus deciding 20" would be fine.

[still_stirrin]

Looks good. Massive HEX.

I'd recommend pointing the shotgun straight down rather that at an angle from the vertical. And a little scrubbie, like dad suggested, in the liquid outlet will help reduce the potential for puffing.

I know you'll be able to run much faster with these mods completed (than you could before).
ss

[Iowa]

Looks good. Massive HEX.

I'd recommend pointing the shotgun straight down rather that at an angle from the vertical. And a little scrubbie, like dad suggested, in the liquid outlet will help reduce the potential for puffing.

I know you'll be able to run much faster with these mods completed (than you could before).
ss

Thanks SS! So run this thing vertical huh. I was running the other condenser at an angle. I have copper mesh in the 1" long vertical off the head.

And do I need holes in the 3" reducer like DAD300 suggested earlier? And if so.. where do I put them?

Sorry.. I'm still learning. I'm guessing HEX is short for heat exchanger? I need a flashcard with abbreviation meanings!

Thanks! I hope to run some vinegar through it fri night after work. Check for leaks. I cleaned out the condenser tubes really good with a steel brush I soldered on a long shaft and put on a drill motor. Used some citrus cleaner. They are nice and shiny on the inside!

[still_stirrin]

.... So run this thing vertical huh. I was running the other condenser at an angle.

With the old Liebig, angling the condenser slowed the condensate (and vapor) speed and allowed for a longer contact time with the cooling water jacket. It improved its efficiency.

With a shotgun, you have many tubes which present a significant greater contact surface to the vapor to condense on. Running vertical will let the liquid condensate drip out faster. Shotguns have greater crossectional flow area (vapor & liquid paths) and greater tube wall area (due to the multi-tubes) to conduct the heat out of the vapor, making them much more efficient.

...I have copper mesh in the 1" long vertical off the head.

Good...it will increase the flow resistance slightly and increase the conduction cooling area, thereby minimizing the vapor which might want to puff out when running hard.

...And do I need holes in the 3" reducer like DAD300 suggested earlier? And if so.. where do I put them?

I don't think you'll need to add vacuum breaker holes for your shotgun. They would compensate for internal vacuum created during vapor collapse if running at a very fast (strip) rate, when your condenser water is flowing faster.

Since your product outlet is 1" ID and you've loosely stuffed a little scrubbie in it, I believe those pressure/vacuum surges will be adequately buffered. When you run it wide open, if you experience the "huffing" (vapor being sucked back into the product output tube) then you may want to consider a vacuum breaker design.

...Sorry.. I'm still learning. I'm guessing HEX is short for heat exchanger?

Yup...sorry, mech (short for "mechanical") engineer here.

Don't forget the proper cleaning protocol...Steam run, then water vinegar (50/50) run, and finally a sacrificial alcohol run. All mandatory.
ss

[Iowa]

.... So run this thing vertical huh. I was running the other condenser at an angle.

With the old Liebig, angling the condenser slowed the condensate (and vapor) speed and allowed for a longer contact time with the cooling water jacket. It improved its efficiency.

With a shotgun, you have many tubes which present a significant greater contact surface to the vapor to condense on. Running vertical will let the liquid condensate drip out faster. Shotguns have greater crossectional flow area (vapor & liquid paths) and greater tube wall area (due to the multi-tubes) to conduct the heat out of the vapor, making them much more efficient.

...I have copper mesh in the 1" long vertical off the head.

Good...it will increase the flow resistance slightly and increase the conduction cooling area, thereby minimizing the vapor which might want to puff out when running hard.

...And do I need holes in the 3" reducer like DAD300 suggested earlier? And if so.. where do I put them?

I don't think you'll need to add vacuum breaker holes for your shotgun. They would compensate for internal vacuum created during vapor collapse if running at a very fast (strip) rate, when your condenser water is flowing faster.

Since your product outlet is 1" ID and you've loosely stuffed a little scrubbie in it, I believe those pressure/vacuum surges will be adequately buffered. When you run it wide open, if you experience the "huffing" (vapor being sucked back into the product output tube) then you may want to consider a vacuum breaker design.

...Sorry.. I'm still learning. I'm guessing HEX is short for heat exchanger?

Yup...sorry, mech (short for "mechanical") engineer here.

Don't forget the proper cleaning protocol...Steam run, then water vinegar (50/50) run, and finally a sacrificial alcohol run. All mandatory.
ss

Thanks! My product outlet is 3/4" pipe. I will see how it runs without a scrubby in it first.

I will do the cleaning protocol. I have a batch of sweet feed mash fermenting right now. My plan was to strip it for the start of sour mash run. Sounds like a good time to start with this sacrificial run..

[Iowa]

Put head on pot. Put arm on. It won't go vertical. It hits the cape on the pot.... Will have to be at a 15deg angle. Or I will need to get a longer piece of pipe to get it out to clear the pot.

[still_stirrin]

Put head on pot. Put arm on. It won't go vertical. It hits the cape on the pot.... Will have to be at a 15deg angle. Or I will need to get a longer piece of pipe to get it out to clear the pot.

It'll work. It would be better vertical. But not a deal breaker if you're close...especially since the vapor tubes are 1/2" ID inside the shotgun. They'll drain fine.
ss

[Iowa]

Doing my 50/50 vinegar right now. My temp at 215. Steam rolling out the tip. Turn coolant water on. Instant stream. And no steam. Stream is cool as a cucumber!

I have a bunch of fore shots laying around here. I recon I will dump them in tomorrow watered down and use that as my sacrificial run!

[still_stirrin]

Doing my 50/50 vinegar...coolant water on... no steam...cool as a cucumber!

But smells like a pickle.

...I have a bunch of fore shots laying around here. I recon I will dump them in tomorrow watered down and use that as my sacrificial run!

[Iowa]

Ran 20 gallons of my Sweet Feed Mash yesterday. Run took way less time and product was very good. Heads started at 155p and I filled jars until just under 80p. Then ran a couple gallons of tails out. May take a couple jars out right now for sippin as it's pretty good. Used some hot sour mash from boiler and got another batch mashing out now. Keep it rollin till mother nature says no mo...