Voltage Regulator?????

[bburton]

I'm installing the Voltage Regulator located on this link: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/251251998263" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow. (10000W AC110V 220V 75A SCR Voltage Regulator Speed Controller Dimmer Thermostat)

With the 220V inputs inserted I connected my volt meter to the outputs. When I turn the dial on the unit the voltage on my meter stays the same! Is this the way it's suppose to work? When i connect a load to it, will it operate differently?? Is it controlling the current instead?

Obviously my electrical knowledge is limited, but is the unit defective??

(I'm hoping to connect it to a 4000 watt element in my still)

[Yummyrum]

Yes connect a load...even a kettle or incandescent light globe and it will measure differently than wih no load

[FreeMountainHermit]

Facing the controller do the terminals run from left to right like so,..

in L1 - L2 / out L1 - L2

[bburton]

Yes they do.

Facing the controller do the terminals run from left to right like so,..

in L1 - L2 / out L1 - L2

[FreeMountainHermit]

Thank you my friend. A few guys here have stated that the chinglish instructions are a pain to decipher so I thought I'd would ask before I buy one as a spare.

Thank you again and good luck.

[bburton]

Putting a load on the 220V system did the trick (Hooked it to my 4000w element in the still). My meter now shows a variation in Volts. THANK YOU!!!!

Next question. I partially cranked the knob in little increments, from 0 to 150V, here are my observations:

- The 15 gallons of water in my 20 gallon still started to make boiling type noise at 80 Volts
- At 100V it was making a lot of boiling type noise (Column is off the stainless still)
- At 150V, it mas making so much noise I would not crank any further. Lite it would boil in 30 minutes??!!
- I'm scared to push it to 220V (

Lol, forgive me again, but is this normal?

If normal, would this thing now actually boil in 1 hour?

[still_stirrin]

....but is this normal? If normal, would this thing now actually boil in 1 hour?

Yep.

Normal...that's the sound of the electrode "vibrating" as the current passes through it. It happens as the liquid starts to boil in small locations in contact with the heater. That sound is the "hush" of the boiler doing its job. More power will generate more noise.

Depending on the size of the boiler (how many gallons of what liquid) with 4kW power, you will in all liklihood boil in 60 minutes or less. I usually bring the heat down just at the onset of boiling so I can control the vapor rate.
ss

[still_stirrin]

I also want to add, that the power is proportional to the "square" of the voltage....not "linear" to it.

P = V x V / R, where V is the voltage (measured) and R is the heat element's resistance (also measured and constant).

That means your power is increasing at an exponential rate as you turn up the voltage.

Likewise, the current flowing is proportional to the voltage, that is - it increases linearly with the voltage.

P = I x I x R = I x V, where I is the current (if you had an ammeter in the circuit, this is what you'd measure).

Does this help you understand?

The power consumed in the heat element results from the current flow through the resistance and the voltage is the "motive force" for that current flow. It's the potential, similar to pressure in your garden hose. The flow (current) is similar to the water flow in the hose. And the drag in the hose is similar to the resistance of the heat element, consuming the pressure, thereby reducing the flow's potential.
ss

[bburton]

Thanks for the lesson. Very helpful.

I think last question - why did I notice a potential of 120V with a lead on the outside of the still/column and a lead on one of the heating element input screws?

Is my still hot??

[still_stirrin]

Your heating element is hot. But it's supposed to be.

Your still is at neutral. But your element input is hot (from the controller), if you're measuring from the +V side of the controller.
ss

[bburton]

Yes, there is 120V potential between the two. Yes, thanks. I understand now.

[bburton]

Just an update:

- Still design is this: https://www.erowid.org/archive/rhodium/pdf/still.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow I went from 120V to 240V, formerly propane
- 15 gallons and the still boiled in 55 minutes at 238V!! Have to watch it as mixture almost boiled into the column!!
- All settled down to 80V input, 80C temp on the column head, and 82% alcohol in the parrot.
- A steady little stream out of the still. A little too fast I think. Next time I'll fiddle so I get more of a drip drip?
- Done in 6 hrs, including boil. I dug too heavy into the tails - 38% in the parrot (At 120V used to be 12-14 hrs)

Now heavy charring some (baked in the oven at 400F for 2 hrs) spruce 1x1 sticks, 4 inches long. Will put 2 in a 1 liter (34oz) jar, and try to let them sit for 2 months. Try, that is. Check out; http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =4&t=50348

THANKS ALL!!!!! Really thanks!

(I find it interesting, as a Canadian, that I have 15 gallons in my still but age in a 1 liter jar - metric/imperial - funny. I also bake at 400F and I drive 120Kms per hour??)

[still_stirrin]

Spruce? Are you sure?

I've used fruit woods and nut woods besides oak. But I haven't used spruce, or any sap woods. I hope it works OK for you.

Maybe experiment with a small jar before going "all in".
ss

[bburton]

I have only used birch, with great success. Thought I would go with spruce this time around. But you have me second guessing - so I consulted my Corsair - "Fire Water" book. It lists such things as Alder, Cedar, Maple and Ash. But no spruce. You maybe right. I'll just do a 1L jar, and find some Maple as a second try.

Thanks!

[DAD300]

I'll put in a plug for maple and cherry...both fantastic!

[T-Pee]

I don't think I'd use spruce. Might as well use pine. Ever eat a spruce (blue) grouse? Like a mouthful of turpentine.

tp

[yakattack]

Yep +1 for seasoned maple. Amazing flavour profile. Don't use spruce. Think pinesol smell.

Yak

[Danespirit]

I have only used birch, with great success. Thought I would go with spruce this time around. But you have me second guessing - so I consulted my Corsair - "Fire Water" book. It lists such things as Alder, Cedar, Maple and Ash. But no spruce. You maybe right. I'll just do a 1L jar, and find some Maple as a second try.

Thanks!

I imagine spruce would give off a lot of resin, making you spirits taste like greek Retsina wine ...
I think you did good only to gamble with a litre...but experimenting never hurts..please share the results good or bad.

[Monkeyman88]

Just an update:

- Still design is this: https://www.erowid.org/archive/rhodium/pdf/still.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow I went from 120V to 240V, formerly propane
- 15 gallons and the still boiled in 55 minutes at 238V!! Have to watch it as mixture almost boiled into the column!!
- All settled down to 80V input, 80C temp on the column head, and 82% alcohol in the parrot.
- A steady little stream out of the still. A little too fast I think. Next time I'll fiddle so I get more of a drip drip?
- Done in 6 hrs, including boil. I dug too heavy into the tails - 38% in the parrot (At 120V used to be 12-14 hrs)

Now heavy charring some (baked in the oven at 400F for 2 hrs) spruce 1x1 sticks, 4 inches long. Will put 2 in a 1 liter (34oz) jar, and try to let them sit for 2 months. Try, that is. Check out; http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =4&t=50348

THANKS ALL!!!!! Really thanks!

(I find it interesting, as a Canadian, that I have 15 gallons in my still but age in a 1 liter jar - metric/imperial - funny. I also bake at 400F and I drive 120Kms per hour??)

What did you run. 38% is a bit early to cut off for me. If you're making a flavoured spirit there are lots of good thing all the way down to 20%.

[Antler24]

He's using a reflux rig. The one in the link can't be run in pot still mode unless he's added a valve between the condensers.

Glad to see the upgrades bburton, I'm sure your loving the 6hr run times opposed to what your used to!

[acfixer69]

I'm installing the Voltage Regulator located on this link: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/251251998263" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow. (10000W AC110V 220V 75A SCR Voltage Regulator Speed Controller Dimmer Thermostat)

With the 220V inputs inserted I connected my volt meter to the outputs. When I turn the dial on the unit the voltage on my meter stays the same! Is this the way it's suppose to work? When i connect a load to it, will it operate differently?? Is it controlling the current instead?

Obviously my electrical knowledge is limited, but is the unit defective??

(I'm hoping to connect it to a 4000 watt element in my still)

I bought this same controller from this link for a back up and now looking at it there is a dip switch next to the voltage output connection with no labeling and no paper work was included does anyone know what it does. Though I might ask before I test and let the smoke out.

AC

[Antler24]

I'm installing the Voltage Regulator located on this link: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/251251998263" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow. (10000W AC110V 220V 75A SCR Voltage Regulator Speed Controller Dimmer Thermostat)

With the 220V inputs inserted I connected my volt meter to the outputs. When I turn the dial on the unit the voltage on my meter stays the same! Is this the way it's suppose to work? When i connect a load to it, will it operate differently?? Is it controlling the current instead?

Obviously my electrical knowledge is limited, but is the unit defective??

(I'm hoping to connect it to a 4000 watt element in my still)

I bought this same controller from this link for a back up and now looking at it there is a dip switch next to the voltage output connection with no labeling and no paper work was included does anyone know what it does. Though I might ask before I test and let the smoke out.

AC

Mine has the same switch. I din't know what it's for, haven't touched it my unit works fine 240v/5500w

[acfixer69]

Is it to the left or the right thanks
AC

[acfixer69]

In case anyone else buys one it is a fan switch for the heat sink.

AC

[muscashine]

I wound up going with this one...

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=353" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I know I paid a bit more than some of the ebay stuff but it seemed solid. I got a heat sink with it, according to the instructions I don't need a fan for it. Since I'm running 15 amps max through it, there's a lot of wiggle room, but I figured why not go with the bigger one in case Im able to up the wattage on the heater, later.

[still_stirrin]

Oughta' work just fine.

Did you also order the heatsink? It's a "must have".
ss

[FreeMountainHermit]

I wound up going with this one...

I've felt confident in my purchases from Aubers Inst. for one of my other hobbies. Good stuff.

[shadylane]

Just my $.02 worth
The SSVR "Solid State Voltage Regulator" is the best way to go.
You can put the SSVR and heat sink where it's easiest to blow air on it and the power knob where you want it.

[muscashine]

Oughta' work just fine.

Did you also order the heatsink? It's a "must have".
ss

If you're asking me, yes, I got the heat sink. I only bought the 25amp version of the heatsink (they have a bigger one for the 40amp ssr, but use can use the smaller one if you put a fan on it) but since I'm running less than 20amps I'll be fine.