myles wrote:I do a simmilar thing with my temperature probes. They go through a compression fitting. I put the compression nut on the probe (shaft in this case) then put in a washer and wrap ptfe tape to form a bung. I dont use the compression ring. The ptfe "bung" goes into the body of the fitting and is compressed by the washer to make a good seal when you tighten the nut.
In reality it is just a variation on the packing used on some valve stems - so it is not a new idea. But it works.
Exactly what I do as well. I dont bother with a washer. Yesterday I cut a stainless union in half and hard soldered the pieces on to two, four inch stainless builds. I lost the freaking nuts! I looked everywhere.
Brass nuts will work and not be in contact with vapor but Damn! I paid $15 for that stainless union.
New to this I'm looking to build a 4 inch site glasses I need to start from scratch so I need ideas plans um very unfamiliar with this distilling Jordan
im collecting parts for a 3 inch flute,4 plate build,..working on the boiler now an figuring out the wiring an all for the heat element,...my question is how big a element do i need to properly fire a 15 gal keg boiler with a 3 inch flute, im thinking a 3500w to a 5500w,...on 240v but would love it to be 110v ...been reading an studying this forum an the mother site for over a year an theres every thing you'd ever need to know on here but its spread out threw the forum an rather hard to go back an find after you move on to other subjects on here..lol,..im amazed at the skills an knowlage thats ,..thank yall fer being here tho!
new moon wrote:im collecting parts for a 3 inch flute,4 plate build,..working on the boiler now an figuring out the wiring an all for the heat element,...my question is how big a element do i need to properly fire a 15 gal keg boiler with a 3 inch flute, im thinking a 3500w to a 5500w,...on 240v but would love it to be 110v ...been reading an studying this forum an the mother site for over a year an theres every thing you'd ever need to know on here but its spread out threw the forum an rather hard to go back an find after you move on to other subjects on here..lol,..im amazed at the skills an knowlage thats ,..thank yall fer being here tho!
Hey Moon,
If you got the current available in the garage or whatnot , got for the 5500 watt Ultra low watt density. you can't miss it, its the wavy element.
gimme a holler if you hit a snag once you start building
Hooch
NChooch
Practice safe distillin and keep your hobby under your hat.
jawshunter wrote:New to this I'm looking to build a 4 inch site glasses I need to start from scratch so I need ideas plans um very unfamiliar with this distilling Jordan
Hey Jaws,
are you talking about making 4" sight glasses? ....or sight glasses to fit on a 4" column?
I think there was a sight-glass thread here somewhere .
I've used the Grainger trap adapters in my builds . they're 1.5" diameter
btw, whats a Jordan?
NChooch
Practice safe distillin and keep your hobby under your hat.
new moon wrote:im collecting parts for a 3 inch flute,4 plate build,..working on the boiler now an figuring out the wiring an all for the heat element,...my question is how big a element do i need to properly fire a 15 gal keg boiler with a 3 inch flute, im thinking a 3500w to a 5500w,...on 240v but would love it to be 110v ...been reading an studying this forum an the mother site for over a year an theres every thing you'd ever need to know on here but its spread out threw the forum an rather hard to go back an find after you move on to other subjects on here..lol,..im amazed at the skills an knowlage thats ,..thank yall fer being here tho!
If you bookmark or subscribe to a thread of interest you can easily find your way back...just take a look at the User Control Panel options.
“Well, between Scotch and nothin', I suppose I'd take Scotch. It's the nearest thing to good moonshine I can find.”
William Faulkner (1897-1962)
new moon wrote:im collecting parts for a 3 inch flute,4 plate build,..working on the boiler now an figuring out the wiring an all for the heat element,...my question is how big a element do i need to properly fire a 15 gal keg boiler with a 3 inch flute, im thinking a 3500w to a 5500w,...on 240v but would love it to be 110v ...been reading an studying this forum an the mother site for over a year an theres every thing you'd ever need to know on here but its spread out threw the forum an rather hard to go back an find after you move on to other subjects on here..lol,..im amazed at the skills an knowlage thats ,..thank yall fer being here tho!
If you bookmark or subscribe to a thread of interest you can easily find your way back...just take a look at the User Control Panel options.
I was watching the 2nd bugle the other day during the cleaning run ....and I was wondering what the effect would be if the upper plates had more holes than the bottom plates.
After making the 2 bugles, I really question the necessity of the downcomer on the bottom plate.... and I'm considering getting a cap for the bottom downcomer on my 4-plate flute....just for a test.
NChooch
Practice safe distillin and keep your hobby under your hat.
I have been wondering also Hooch,my 5 plate has been done with the top 2 plates having bigger holes then the bottom 3 it ran some what unstable I could not get comfortable with the way it was running compared to the original way( all holes same size) so I solder the amount shut to leave all the same % of open area! I would elaborate more, I.have to get this crew beating up nails,I will check in this evening!
I don't know how yours are working, mine has 5 plates 1/16 holes x 180 per plate. I let em fill up, all are bubbling half full at 160'f @ top plate with deplag running, I cut back the deplag to a trickle, 175-180' and it starts running pretty good for awhile then the plates go almost empty, I slow back down and let them fill again and same thing until I'm done.
NcHooch wrote:I was watching the 2nd bugle the other day during the cleaning run ....and I was wondering what the effect would be if the upper plates had more holes than the bottom plates.
After making the 2 bugles, I really question the necessity of the downcomer on the bottom plate.... and I'm considering getting a cap for the bottom downcomer on my 4-plate flute....just for a test.
NC The down comer is needed on the bottom plate to allow water to return to the boiler. The trap is necessary to keep raw vapor from bypassing the plate. Flutes do a great job of removing water. Although there is not enough plates typically to allow a complete equilibrium where fractions find there sweet spot the down comer system does allow water to work its way back down when refluxing.
King Of Hearts wrote:I don't know how yours are working, mine has 5 plates 1/16 holes x 180 per plate. I let em fill up, all are bubbling half full at 160'f @ top plate with deplag running, I cut back the deplag to a trickle, 175-180' and it starts running pretty good for awhile then the plates go almost empty, I slow back down and let them fill again and same thing until I'm done.
KOH Your plates should not empty. You should be able maintain a steady equilibrium if you increase your reflux ratio and/or take off a little slower.
King Of Hearts wrote:I don't know how yours are working, mine has 5 plates 1/16 holes x 180 per plate. I let em fill up, all are bubbling half full at 160'f @ top plate with deplag running, I cut back the deplag to a trickle, 175-180' and it starts running pretty good for awhile then the plates go almost empty, I slow back down and let them fill again and same thing until I'm done.
KOH Your plates should not empty. You should be able maintain a steady equilibrium if you increase your reflux ratio and/or take off a little slower.[/quote]
I was thinking that exact thing this morning. What temp should it be running at or do you run at the top plate? 160' I get no output. Should I wait longer? I do need a better water valve for the deplag, I'll try a gate valve there.
Yes. You need good control on your dephlag coolant flow. Every still reads a little different head temp. I measure temp above the dephlag on all my stills. It is relevant only to repeat your successes.
The temp of your exit coolant will tell you more when running. On a flute with 50% dephlag flow increase power until plates are full but not flooded. Turn down dephlag until exit water is warm to the touch. No heart alcohol should pass. A slight amount of heads if you are set perfectly. You are now at 100% reflux. After waiting 30 minutes for your column to find equilibrium, slowly turn down dephlag until exit water is hot to the touch with a modest flow. 165 degrees or so. Your plates should remain full as you take off. If not, increase coolant flow until they start to load again then increase power until take off begins. The idea is to use enough power plus enough reflux coolant to knock it down and be able to take off without disturbing plate level. Reflux Ratio.
For me, Boiler temp and reflux condenser coolant exit temp are my biggest tools when working on different designs.
The problem I ran into...if I raise power too much, I flood the upper plates. Had trouble getting the perfect takeoff rate. Had to balance power and dephleg cooling....fought it the whole run. Should be smoother the next time
warp1 wrote:The problem I ran into...if I raise power too much, I flood the upper plates. Had trouble getting the perfect takeoff rate. Had to balance power and dephleg cooling....fought it the whole run. Should be smoother the next time
Finding the adjustment sweet spot can be tough and time consuming. As long as the distillate is not splashing on the plate above you are not flooding to the point of entrainment. Entrainment is when distillate vapors are contaminated by fractions occupying the lower plate. Anytime you run a flute so hard that you have splashing on upper plates you will never have a very clean product. There will be smearing of fractions. Level of liquid is of no concern if there is no entrainment.
warp1 wrote:The problem I ran into...if I raise power too much, I flood the upper plates. Had trouble getting the perfect takeoff rate. Had to balance power and dephleg cooling....fought it the whole run. Should be smoother the next time
Takes a little practice Warp ....you'll get the hang of it in short order . the fact that you were getting 90% on your first run means a lot.
NChooch
Practice safe distillin and keep your hobby under your hat.
mash rookie wrote:
NC The down comer is needed on the bottom plate to allow water to return to the boiler. The trap is necessary to keep raw vapor from bypassing the plate. Flutes do a great job of removing water. Although there is not enough plates typically to allow a complete equilibrium where fractions find there sweet spot the down comer system does allow water to work its way back down when refluxing.
MR, I think you might be over-estimating the amount, and/or movement of water on the bottom plate.
If what you're saying is correct, or necessary , then a 3 plate flute with no downcomer on the bottom plate wouldn't produce 90% from fores to tails
Last edited by NcHooch on Thu Oct 18, 2012 7:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
NChooch
Practice safe distillin and keep your hobby under your hat.
mash rookie wrote:
NC The down comer is needed on the bottom plate to allow water to return to the boiler. The trap is necessary to keep raw vapor from bypassing the plate. Flutes do a great job of removing water. Although there is not enough plates typically to allow a complete equilibrium where fractions find there sweet spot the down comer system does allow water to work its way back down when refluxing.
MR, I think you're over-estimating the amount, and/or movement of water on the bottom plate.
If what you're saying is correct, or necessary , then a 3 plate flute with no downcomer on the bottom plate wouldn't produce 90% from fores to tails
Just stating NC that is the purpose of the design. I may be over estimating the amount of water in raw vapor. Have you run your still in this fashion? Without severe flooding? Refluxed enough you could probably make 90% with two plates. Running without a down comer I think would slow you down. Please share what you learned. We have found that flutes are quite affective at separating alcohol from water and produce 90% relatively easy but not separate fractions. 3,4,5 plates probably tastes the same with similar smearing. My guess is slight difference in speed. Maybe not though. Speed is pretty much determined by diameter.
King Of Hearts wrote:Thanks MR, rerunning now, coming off at 92%, 172 at my top plate, all plates full, waste water is 95'f. Tasting great, thanks again.
Odin wrote:Did you get over a lot of taste at 92%, KOH?
Odin.
100% Canadian White Wheat Malt. The first 500ml was very light tasting and smelling, the next 1000ml was a typical vodka flavor & aroma, and the last 500ml had light grain & a little sweetness. It seems just like with a pot still only more alcohol, the fractions deal the same way. Foreshots, heads, hearts & tails. I Used it all and proofed it to 46% abv. Very good stuff, my first attempt.
