FLUTE TALK

[badbird]

1, Heaps of people run a packed section, mine is a 21" x 4" section packed with lava rock (scoria) above 3 plates for neutrals, it puts out azeo no problems and rock is cheap as that is a lot of packing.
2, Down comer cups soldered to the plate take up real-estate that may be better used for perforations, I think most use the suspended version now.
3, Mine is above the delph and works fine.
4, 3" glasses and triclamps at 4" spacing is a tight fit , maybe go to 5" between plates if you can?

bb

[baltobrewer]

Thanks for the input. I know Brendan uses 3 inchers on his 4" column, and his is bada**.

[pulsetech]

As Far as Boiler temp I have had great luck using an infrared no contact thermometer. I have a small spot on my keg that I have painted flat black as the shiny stainless is hard to get a good reading. This is working very well for me and is super simple. Even if it isn't 100% accurate its gets me very close. I only use it as a guide for me to shut off my second element. ( 2 x 2400 @ 240v) On my setup 2400W on 240v is perfect and I don't need any control. the second element is only used to get the temps up faster.
I start with 100% flow through my reflux condenser so I know it won't run anything until I close down the water flow.once the plates are loaded and equalized for 10 min's i Close down the water on the reflux until I 2 drips per second for the take off to draw off the fores. Drop the water through the reflux once the fores are taken to get a thin stream ( Normally 92% abv ) tails normally kick in at 86% abv with my wash
I then shut off the reflux and rip the tails out until 20%. I am working on a new water flow control system at the moment. photos to follow soon.

[googe]

Sounds good pulsetech, that's pretty much how I run mine . Pics?.

[pulsetech]

Bit of an update. Still waiting on my 3 way valve and a few other small parts .
Here is a picture so far. The temp sensors (not clicked in fully yet) are for the outlet temp on the reflux condenser and the product condenser. The adjustable flow meter will allow me to set,tune and document my water flow threw the reflux condenser. The pressure gauge will help me to monitor the load on the pump and adjust the bypass valve accordingly. The 3 way valve (not shown) will let me very quickly and easily go from pot still mode (no reflux) to my regular take off setting(through the flow meter) or to full reflux.
Any and all comments appreciated.

[pulsetech]

A CIP system is next on the cards for my Flute. I was thinking of putting a single spray ball in the 180 degree bend above the reflux condenser.
Any Con's to doing this way ? I could put the ball in the 4 inch to 2 inch reducer above the reflux condenser but I want to make sure I get the water
up and over the bend into the product condenser and parrot.
Another idea I have seen on another forum was to replace the first 90 degree elbow and reducer with a 4 x 4 x 2 tee. the CIP ball was put on a 4 inch end cap on the top off the tee. the other end of the tee was connected to the RC and the 2 inch was fitted with a single 90 degree bend down to the PC. I like this idea but it might put mu PC too close to my flute. I guess I could use an extension. The advantage to doing this would also reduce the total height of my column. not really an issue except when I run the 500mm packed reflux extension above my plates.
I will be building a new room for my still and other brewery gear in the next 12 months and roof height will need to be considered.

Comments ?

[pulsetech]

This Picture is the same as my still

[googe]

Hey mate, been thinking of cip for.mine to. I reckon one in the bend on yours like you say would work pretty good. I'm trying to set mine up so I can put a connection on the parrot or PC output and flush back through the still and boiler and out the boiler drain.

[pulsetech]

I have an 1/2 bsp to 3/4 tc adapter that I hook up in place of my parrot and connect the garden hose to. It works ok but is messy when you disconnect it . Water goes everywhere. I want to avoid that especially when I get into the new space. My leaning towards using the tee instead of going into the bend. With all the bits I need it will only end up around $100 and the height saving is significant.

[pulsetech]

Just re running some old pot stilled rum that I got too much tails in tonight and I noticed something interesting. On my top plate the down comer is oriented to the left. Next plate is in the centre. Next plate is to the left. Bottom plate is again centered. I have a noticeably deeper bath depth and more vigerous bubbling on the plates that have the down comer of to the side. In my mind I thought it must be better to have the down comer in the centre. What I'm seeing says I was wrong. With the down comer of to the side it takes longer for the ethanol to get over and down the hole. I'm going to pull the plates after this run and change them all to left / right orientation.

[frunobulax]

Yes, you want the distillate to drop in on one side and travel across the plate to the other side, so it can intermingle with the rising vapor.

[Farmboy]

Hi guys, I think I have this in the right place. I have been reading this forum since September. I just finished flute talk and it has got me ready to build a flute. the only info I cant find is, which type of 4" copper pipe do need. Type L, M, OR K? Thanks for the help. Great Forum

[bentstick]

it all works! dwv is the thinnest and cheapest!

[Hound Dog]

Hi guys, I think I have this in the right place. I have been reading this forum since September. I just finished flute talk and it has got me ready to build a flute. the only info I cant find is, which type of 4" copper pipe do need. Type L, M, OR K? Thanks for the help. Great Forum

The type you can get is best. If you plan on using SS ferrules and silver soldering them in avoid the thick type L. They don't quite fit and it's a bear to get them in. It's what my 3" column is made from so I know. But when a buddy shows up with a 10 foot stick he scrounged from the maintenance guy at work for free, you shut up and deal with it.

[Farmboy]

Thanks bentstick, yea, I just looked up the dwv and it is the lightest. I already had some type L from 20 years ago and thought, if I build out of this, it will weigh a ton! now I can get some dwv orderd and get started. will be a new flute build happening soon.

[harley03]

Sieve plate test with 2,0mm punched hole and to 5500watt/ 22,9 amp 240 volt power

I have tested some different numbers of 2,0mm hole ( punched hole so they are exact in size) and compare this with 5500watt power at max all time and from about 10% mash %

My own conclusion after testing the optimum effect/power to a /1pc 2.0mm sieve hole, that is 30 watt is max/best and over this effect it will not work well.

Example 5500watt = 183pc ( punched) 2,0mm hole if you want to be able to go for 100% power/5500watt.

By the way my test have been made with 10-12mm tray deep/return pipe over the plate.

Would be interesting to here what you others have come forward to!

Cheers from Sweden

[cityboy2977]

Harley, im assuming that you meant 300 watts instead of 30 watts ?

testing 1 plate tells me nothing because it isnt a true working environment. granted you build some nice equipment, but you need to put a whole rig together and run it for accurate test results.

those results will change when multiple plates and the complete column are all put together and ran producing a product.

[harley03]

Harley, im assuming that you meant 300 watts instead of 30 watts ?

testing 1 plate tells me nothing because it isnt a true working environment. granted you build some nice equipment, but you need to put a whole rig together and run it for accurate test results.

those results will change when multiple plates and the complete column are all put together and ran producing a product.

Hi,

This is tested out more that one time and you meen that a 2,0mm hole can take care of 300watt pc?

182pc 2,0mm hole X 300watt = 54,600 watt....

It,s only matematic when you scale it upp if you have right input.

A also send out a question to all you other that use sieve plate column with 2,0mm hole and what result they have get if they think of it when they use it…..

Hillbilly stills Flute have 166pc 2,04 mm punched hole and a think that this is one of the most used sieve flute in Usa and a have also some of this and my resulted with this is that about 21amp/ 240volt=5040watt is Max in my yeas from same mash…

Cheers from Sweden.

[pulsetech]

I run caps what would be the best way to work that out ?
Measure up the area of all the slots ?

[cityboy2977]

i misunderstood exactly what you were saying.
you are saying 30 watts per 182 x 2mm hole on a plate is maximum if using a 5500 watts element at 100% power ?
seems there is some data missing.....like the rest of the setup used for this test. got a picture ?

[Farmboy]

Hi guys, starting to get parts in to start my flute project. I think the last question I may have is, what is the best spacing for perf. plates? I have read here a few different numbers.4", 5", 51/2" . On the flutes for sell retail, the sections are 6". Is one better than the other? Thanks

[pulsetech]

You only need enough space to stop entrainment. I have 6 inch tee's and that's more than enough. I don't see splashing going higher than about 4 1/2 inches if I'm really pushing it hard

[googe]

Agree with pulse, 4" us ok but still get some drops popping up here and there onto the next plate.

[Farmboy]

Thanks pulsetech and googe, I think I will split the difference and go 5". I'm not a hard runner but that would give me extra room if I ever do. Hope to have a few pics up soon. Thanks again

[googe]

Good idea to go bigger if you can and have the materials, cause when you get it running you won't want to be a slow runner anymore, you'll be surprised ate speed you can run it lol.

[Farmboy]

yea googe, I thought bout that, right now I do 3 strip runs then a spirit run, I can only do 1 run per week so that is 4 weeks to get some drop. this should speed up things a bit. lol

[pulsetech]

Yeah single run whiskey on 4 or 5 plates rock.

[bentstick]

Ya wont be disappointed Farmboy they do a fine job and once dialed in which dont take long to learn you will be HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY!

Pulsetech nothing like just heating 1 run for a good/Very good Rum,whiskey,scotchBourbon,and add a packed section and will make a nice vodka!

[Jimbo]

4 or 5 plates for whiskey seems like a lot. I do whiskey on 2 plates and brandy on 1. Seems about right. The whiskey after cuts is just under 80% so meets bourbon and rye whiskey regulation.

Koval does their whiskeys on 6 plates in the 90's % but Im not a big fan of their whiskeys. Too stripped. They're going for easy drinking mass appeal I think.

[bentstick]

Never been a issue here Jimbo run 5 plates for 4 yrs and the drink is good and not on the light side,not being an ass or a smart ass but I am not or is anyone here held to commercial standards,if we where all or most of our stuff would be well like commercial,and is that why most of got into the hobby as deep as we are to do better than the store bought?