FLUTE TALK

[googe]

Yeah, be better to build something that can cover all.areas, a traditional depghlag is a tried and proven tool. It's easy to use power/coolant to fine.tune if you build.it right first off.

[cranky]

Maybe a CSST Coil based Dephlag is a better solution than CCVM. it would be an easy build for most.

That's what I did (See picture a couple posts above) the CSST was very easy to make into a dephleg and works like a charm. No need to do anything complicated like double dephlegs, I used 48" of 1/2" CSST and it can knock down everything a 5500W element can throw at it.

[pfshine]

I just built a copper coil dephlag. In my 24 hour bubbler build. It knocks down 5500 with barely a trickle of water. I used about 8' of 3/8"

[ufo8mycow]

So if coils work so well and are deffinatly easier to make why do so many people still make the shotgun?

I ended up making mine a shotgun with 7 4" x 3/4" tubes but I did leave 3 inches under it to add a coil if I decide to later.

[cranky]

Everybody is different and decide what they think will work best for themselves. I actually started off making an 6" long shotgun with ( I think) 4ea 3/4" and 5ea 1/2" tubes intended to be a standard CM then I changed plans and built both a CM and a flute. I got a good deal on the CSST so I used it when I made the flute and personally think it works better than the shotgun. I think I have slightly better control but that is just my opinion and I would certainly have been happy either way.

[raketemensch]

I just built a copper coil dephlag. In my 24 hour bubbler build. It knocks down 5500 with barely a trickle of water. I used about 8' of 3/8"

Since you're down to a trickle, would you have built it smaller had you known what you know now? I'm planning to build a CSST dephlag (if the air-cooled plans fail), and I'd like it to be as easy to control as possible.

[pfshine]

I thought so at first but I just got a needle valve for better control and less waste than the shotty on my 4" plater.

[raketemensch]

Ordered the Plates cut to 119mm OD . all i will need to do is make the 5 holes for my caps and down comer in each one. should be able to test this time next week.

What thickness did you go with? I'm seriously considering trying this out as well, I'm just trying to decide how thin is too thin. I'm not sure what the tensile strength of PTFE sheet is, I don't think I've ever handled it.

[pulsetech]

2 mm . I have not started drilling them yet. A few others have concerns about the strength also . I plan to clamp 1 between 2 tees and see just how strong it is. Personally I think it's plenty strong. It's quite rigid.

[raketemensch]

2 mm . I have not started drilling them yet. A few others have concerns about the strength also . I plan to clamp 1 between 2 tees and see just how strong it is. Personally I think it's plenty strong. It's quite rigid.

Interesting, I'm hoping to be able to press-fit mine tightly against the walls, on a stainless rod. They should be pretty cheap in 2mm, but I still have to wait for another paycheck.

[pulsetech]

they should be ok like that as long as you use a big enough washer the spread the load. maybe go thicker in that case thinking about it.

[pulsetech]

Some progress on the PTFE plates. Making a drill template now

[raketemensch]

Nice, it looks like a good, tight fit. How are you attaching the cups and downcomers?

[pulsetech]

We should know tomorrow googe. I should get all the holes drilled tonight at work.
Rake I will post a photo shortly. The down comer is secured with a nut.

[pulsetech]

down comer pics

[pulsetech]

Ready for a test run. I used some 2mm roll pins to hold everything tight whilst drilling.

[LWTCS]

2 mm . I have not started drilling them yet. A few others have concerns about the strength also . I plan to clamp 1 between 2 tees and see just how strong it is. Personally I think it's plenty strong. It's quite rigid.

You are correct. 2 mm is plenty strong because 1.5 mm is plenty strong.

Will your plates span across the entire surface area of the flange? Does the 2 mm give you any problems latching your tri-clamps around the flanges?

You may find that you will need to tighten your clamps multiple times during heat up. The rigid quality of the plate material doesn't seal that well until brought to collection temps.
Are you firing with gas or electric?

[Bushman]

Will your plates span across the entire surface area of the flange? Does the 2 mm give you any problems latching your tri-clamps around the flanges?

You may find that you will need to tighten your clamps multiple times during heat up. The rigid quality of the plate material doesn't seal that well until brought to collection temps.
Are you firing with gas or electric?

I find this especially true at the boiler. I always check mine during the run for leaks, and usually check how tight it is during heat-up as I make one or two adjustments.

[pulsetech]

Electric. The tri clamps go on ok . I will check all the way through the run. Leaks and bypass is actually what made me think of this. I did some testing in regards to the strength. 5kgs applied to the middle of the plate when secured deflected .4 of a mm . It's very rigid. We will see what happens when up to full temp. I have a sacrificial run planned for tomorrow. I will see if I can shoot a quick video.

[pulsetech]

On a side note I've noticed the tri clamps can bind up on the taper of the flanges. I quick squirt with spray vegetable oil works wonders. I spray the inside of every clamp now everytime I put one on. They seem to stay tighter for what ever reason . Keeps everything nice and shiny also.

[raketemensch]

I went back and looked to see if you'd already said this, but I can't find it -- what're you using for those downcomer pipes? They definitely look like they were built for something different.

[pulsetech]

They were purchased from a still mfg. You could be right I have no idea what they could be from but they work well.

[pulsetech]

Oh and yes the plate does span the whole flange LWTC

[Hound Dog]

Pulsetech, I will have to try the lubricant on my clamps. Never thought of that. I have experienced leaking when the column filled a few times. I usually tap around the triclamp with a hammer and tighten the screw but a little lube makes more sense.

[Monkeyman88]

Nice stuff. They do a lot of PTFE plates on the Russian distiller site. Most are 2" plates with I think 5mm holes in a borosilicate tube for a column.

[pulsetech]

Well the results are in. FAIL
The plates sagged down once the heat hit them. Because the middle of the plate was quite a bit lower than the edge I couldnt get it to run. The reflux would pool in the middle of the plate and the vapor would come up the edge. Even at 3600w I couldnt get enough reflux to get any bubbles.
The fact that it sagged so much killed the idea right way.

[cranky]

Sorry to hear that pulsetech it seemed so promising, Great experiment though even if it failed because we all learned something.

[pulsetech]

Yeah it's a shame but it was a good experiment. I think expansion was the issue. Some plates bubble up and others sagged Down. One even went up one side and down the other. If it had room to expand it would have been fine I think. If the seal was separate to the plate maybe but I will be sticking with copper or stainless

[raketemensch]

I wonder if a thicker PTFE sheet would survive, or if it would warp as well.

Might be time to learn Russian...

[pulsetech]

The issue is with expansion. It's clamped in there tight but it has to grow with the heat. If you made it with a separate seal it may survive because it may have room to expand. Thicker may even be worse. It's not dimensionaly stable enough at our temps. Unfortunately