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All of my ferrules were ordered from Glacier Tanks - they had the best price. That said the fit has to do with the tube thickness, my 4" is type DWV and is a perfect inside fit, my 3" is type k (thicker) and will have to be turned down for an inside fit.yakattack wrote:Oldvine. Where did you order your slip furred for the 4 inch from. Only been able to find butt weld ones myself...
Yak
Oops I knew that I forgot somethingSwedish Pride wrote:looks like you lost half the holes compared to the drawing
But really, nine tubes was going to be a tight fit Shit and thank-you rager - I ordered the wdfsj-24-1-1-2 trap adapters and it seems like they sent the other, I did look at both and chose the food grade one but didn't bother to check when they showed uprager wrote:looking good so far.
one thing i did want to mention is, those cast copper fittings are not listed as food safe on supply house.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Cello-WDSJ-2 ... -C-x-Compr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
read the warning label.
just something to think about. i bought trap adaptors but purchased these.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Cello-WDFSJ- ... TG-x-Compr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I was planning to pickle them anyway but now i'll have to get other ones
third time was the charm. they where good about it had them to me the next afternoon. i do have to say the threaded ring being polished is a little nicer than what you get with the proper copper one. i have yet to try and polish the new ones. 
I just ordered the copper ones earlier today so I will have to double check what they send me. Thanks for the heads up Rager!rager wrote:DUDE ! they did the same shit to me. TWICE!!!!
cheers
Thanks! Going modular adds a bit of cost to the build (about $24 per section), Glacier Tanks had the best prices that I could find.Snackson wrote: Build is looking great man, keep it up! I was planning modular but all the clamps, gaskets, ferrules drive the price way up!
sweet. they do have pretty good customer service. esspecially if they are going to take back the ones you cut up. did you check your recipt and order the correct parts but shipped you the wrong ones?Oldvine Zin wrote:OK I just got off the phone with Supply House, they are going to take back the wrong ones even though I butchered them and hopefully send the correct ones
Yup I ordered the correct ones and they shipped the wrong ones, and stupid me not realizing they were the cast ones until you pointed that out. THANKS! Wish that I had noticed before taking the time to machine them.rager wrote: sweet. they do have pretty good customer service. esspecially if they are going to take back the ones you cut up. did you check your recipt and order the correct parts but shipped you the wrong ones?
please let me know how the glass from mcmaster carr works out with the new TAs . i was going to order from them the same boro disks but wasnt real sure on the size. thi has been holding me up for moving on with my build. btw if you know some one with a lathe, have them face off where the glass is going to meet the copper. i did this to create a smoother surface between the copper and glass . also allows more contact area.
how do you plan on sealing the glass? im thinking about just wrapping the glass in PTFE tape.
Swedish Pride wrote:looks good man, great work so far
what template did you use for the plates?
Looks to be bigger holes and more of them compared to the other builds I've seen, and more that in the diagram thread ( http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 1#p6888282)
Just hope it's enough of the plate left to keep the plate flooded
which can be found here:wv_cooker wrote:
Considering this thread was started in 2010 by the original designer and builder of the flutes, yep you probably missed the heyday. The amount of holes needed is btwn 8% and 10% of the active surface area of the plate and never less than 5%. As for hole size it has been discussed many many times and opinions vary considerably. As PP has pointed out there are many build threads that have been proven to work, it s probably best to pick one and follow it if you don't want to learn a lot of math and theory's and such. Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.
I drew up that template as an experiment, the holes might look bigger than what ks recommends but in fact they are smaller (5/64")and a few less of them, 110 vs 163 on ks's template. Maybe they look bigger because of the countersinking?Swedish Pride wrote: what template did you use for the plates?
Looks to be bigger holes and more of them compared to the other builds I've seen, and more that in the diagram thread ( http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 1#p6888282)
Just hope it's enough of the plate left to keep the plate flooded
Not True Swedish - I'm just a newbie and any info or help is appreciatedSwedish Pride wrote:great stuff, i can see I'm not needed here
Thanks Jimbo - that means a lot to me. Your single malt was the first AG that I tried and will be the first after the cleaning runs through this new column. First time I alder wood smoked 5lbs of the red wheat, this time 10 lbs.Jimbo wrote:Hot damn, beautiful work Zin.
Yea I haven't heard of anyone trying to mix them either. Since my build is totally modular including the plates I have the freedom to experiment. I've read all the pros and cons of perf plate vs bubble, going to try a hybrid with the bottom plate a bubble and the other perfs. Curious if I'll see more action on the first plate and if it doesn't work so well I can always change it. It also might be educational to have a set of each and do some comparison runs.Swedish Pride wrote:nice work mate, the holes deffo look smaller without the countersinking.
So you are doing perf plates and bubble caps on the same build, I've not seen that before, where did that inspiration come from?
rager I just checked the tracking info on those and it looks like they sent them slow boatrager wrote:did you get the new TAs yet? curious to see if the old glass fits as well
cheers. keep the good work
Delivery is scheduled for next Thursday