First build, 2 heads are better than one?

[GSP]

I have an old 8 gal keg (salvaged).
I found a guy selling a bunch of 2" 304 Stainless .065 in 6' lengths. Cheap. So I will probably grab 2 or three to play with.
I think the route to go would be to have one pot head for stripping and whiskey/rum and one boka for neutrals.
(Okay.. even with the reading I have done, so far in a few weeks, I'm not sure if just a "detuned" boka might work well enough for a pot still head?) I have decent reading comprehension, but am somewhat unsure what "detuned" might mean.. to me..
From what I have put together in my head, I have a few different options. I thought i would add a flange to the bottom of the tubing with a copper coupler and a short sanitary flange to mate up with the Sanke. Silver solder to join the dissimilar copper/stainless joint. This cuts out an expensive fitting or three and should be strong, clean, and cheap, even with the cost of a 2" copper coupler, I think.
Top end of the pot still head I thought there may be some options I didn't think of yet, Other than an optimal height of the pot tower. (Haven't found that yet in the build threads). Simple welded on 3/4 spud to unioned Leibig? Flange added to the top as same as the bottom with a blank cap in with/without a thermo port?

The boka will def be the second build, as it is a bit more intensive as far as time. I have some 16 oz sheet copper to solder in for the slant plates already, (thought that would look cool too) and I have built a wort chiller for my beer before, although the condenser/coldfinger assembly may give me a pretty good challenge.

[rgreen2002]

Nice. Always like a good deal.

Welcome GSP... sounds like your on your way! Keep reading and rereading and it will continue to serve you well.

Generally speaking a "detuned" Boka is one that is turned into a pot still. Usually this means removing the packing in the column. For me I would also eliminate the length of the column as I have 3 24" segments joined by tri clamps. As long as your Boka takeoff is big enough then running the detuned Boka as a pot should be similar. I did it once then just went back to my pot still and liebig setup.

Having a separate pot still head is always a great idea IMHO. If you can make it all modular then the conversion is usually quite simple and can save a little $ too.

The Boka really isn't as daunting as it may seem. The coil can be a bitch but there is plenty of advice here on a jig to build and/or how to fill the tubing as needed, etc...

Optimal height for a standard pot still head is usually that height that conforms to your stillin' area. If ya want to get fancy then all bets are off. Best keep it short unless you need height to get over something...

Good luck, have fun, be safe.

[Danespirit]

+1 On that separate pot still head.
You don't need a tall one, 150-200 mm is plenty.
If you built in stainless, maybe mine can be an inspiration to you? http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 9#p7318039
Build with tri-clamps, it's just a lot easier to handle. Also, a modular built (column etc), will give you the option of changing/rearranging your gear as you wish.
Btw...great deal..

A Boka with slant plates...hmm...a lot better alternatives comes to my mind.
A concentric, a VM/CCVM would be better IMO.

[GSP]

Looks pretty. I don't do welding, soldering doesn't scare me at all, though, and is a hell of a lot cheaper, equipment wise.
Maybe I will play with your slanted top idea, though. A brass blind soldered to the top would look nice, to me.

[corene1]

I built a simple still for a friend using a Stainless keg. Made a single packed column with reflux condenser on top. When you want pot still mode just don't run the reflux condenser when you want neutrals use the reflux condenser. Nice and simple and you don't have to worry about having your takeoff point so low when you switch to the shorter pot still head. Just a thought though.

[Danespirit]

I wouldn't use a brass blind, other than if it was there just for the look.
Brass and stainless are two very dissimilar metals, the brass will oxidize very quickly.
That means you'll have a lot of green crap running inside your still head.
I'd make it 100 % stainless steel and then add a brass plate/knob or what you like on top of it (with no contact to the vapor path).

[GSP]

Doh.. Not brass. I know the rule of no brass (unless pickled, and, um, no thanks) . Copper. I have 16 oz. sheet copper. Brain fart.

[Danespirit]

However, keep an eye on the copper ,too.
Dissimilar metals will have a galvanic reaction, especially with the acids etc. coming from the mash/wash.
A good cleaning now and then & flushing the still head with water after use should take care of it.
Naturally, the copper will tarnish and turn brown through time.
That doesn't represent an issue, as it's just the copper protecting itself with a layer of patina. Some distilleries don't even bother with polishing their stills on the outside....
Green oxidized copper should be removed immediately, as this chemical bond is highly toxic and will leach into your product.
Please share some pictures when you start building.
Btw...TIG welding stainless will be the best option. For joining copper and stainless, I recommend soldering.
A low-grade silver solder (5% AG) will do, but a higher grade is preferable if you have this option. I usually have 15-45% AG in my rods, which needs a lot more heat, but it will last a lifetime.
The correct flux and cleaning the parts are crucial for a good result.

[ShineonCrazyDiamond]

Green oxidized copper should be removed immediately, as this chemical bond is highly toxic and will leach into your product.

Guess I'm a dead man.

[Danespirit]

The green stuff on copper is copper carbonate (Cupric carbonate), which is indeed toxic.
Touching it, may not be a big deal, drinking it certainly is.
https://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/sis/ ... @DOCNO+258" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.mk-usa-inc.com/MSDS/MSDS-Cop ... bonate.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[rubber duck]

Yes good on you for doing some reading gps, do two diferent heads for your still.

I've had green copper oxidation on the outside of my stills but I've never had oxidation on the inside of a still that was used regularly.

I thought stainless 304 was pretty non reactive, but hell I don't know I'm not a chemist.

[GSP]

+1 On that separate pot still head.
You don't need a tall one, 150-200 mm is plenty.
If you built in stainless, maybe mine can be an inspiration to you? http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 9#p7318039
Build with tri-clamps, it's just a lot easier to handle. Also, a modular built (column etc), will give you the option of changing/rearranging your gear as you wish.
Btw...great deal..

A Boka with slant plates...hmm...a lot better alternatives comes to my mind.
A concentric, a VM/CCVM would be better IMO.

I have about 8 meters of 2" to play with, I will start... erm... simply.
He charged me 40.00 USD for the 2". Then he said he may have some 3" also. Looks like I may have to make another trip in the future.
I have been toying with the idea of doing a short 200 mm "base spool" of your recommendation, maybe EZ flanged with some 6 gauge grounding wire, then a 100 mm spool with a stainless spud soldered for attachment of a Leibig for pot still duty. Then making up a couple more spools or extensions, flanged the same way, one or two with removable rods or screens for packing material or botanicals for gin, then a 300-400 mm Boka head to put on top of those.

[Danespirit]

That sounds like a good plan..
If you can get your hands on that piece of 3", my suggestion for it would be a plated column.
You would really end up with the most versatile still a hobby distiller could have.
Modular with tri-clamps is the way to go, it allows you for changing parts for different purposes.
I'm currently in the progress of building a mini flute myself. It will probably be the last piece of equipment I'll ever need.
Btw...that 2" can also be used as an outer shell for a shotgun condenser. It's the most efficient condenser there currently is.

[rubber duck]

I've got a diferent philosophy, i would go for a packed column, and a basic pot still head. I'm not a big fan of plate stills, I think they are great for folks new to distilling, but I don't think they do to many things really well generally.

I can build anything I want or buy it and a plate still is not my tool of choice for hobby level distilling.

[der wo]

I'm not a big fan of plate stills, I think they are great for folks new to distilling

It's the first time, that I hear this opinion. A plated column good for new distillers.
I also don't run a plated column and I think I never will. I am not convinced, it is worth the effort and the tools I had to buy. I read all the threads about plates vs packing, but didn't find the one point, which could convince me.

[rubber duck]

Thanks for pointing that out, I should clarify. A plate still is harder to understand how to oporate, once you get it the cuts are pretty straight forward if your running 4 or 5 plates. A trained monkey can do it.

A basic pot still is easy to run without some instructions, getting anything really good out of it takes a lot of practice. You can really make some good stuff with the most basic pot still, that's why I call it an experts still.

Both stills are tools, if I had my choice for what I like to do I'll take a 100 dollar pot still, and I've have all the tools. For white whiskey though man a plate still is kinda nice.