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Down_Home52 wrote:2-4 years!!!!!! I'm too old....NcHooch you mentioned waiting till the next day to make cuts or to blend? The addition of the 1 teaspoon/qt of peated barley infuses that much flavor....wow. Thanks for the suggestion. Now to find the right supplier for the grain. BTW thanks for the note on the yeast.
In my scotch I use US-05.tuner wrote:Question on Yeasts:
Bakers vs US-05 vs EC-1118
What are the effects of each yeast on an all grain mash?
Cheers
What a great Website - but at times it's like the "X-files" you have to dig deep to find the answers:cuginosgrizzo wrote: In my scotch I use US-05.
Bakers ferments at higher temps and gives lots of esters. US-05 is somewhat cleaner and it likes colder temps, EC-1118 is yet cleaner and dry, and it also likes colder temps.
Neither will give you the floral notes that you find in some speyside whiskies.
Thanks for this "der wo" I did two batches last weekend and a thrid during the week, using your mashing instructions, scaled up to 30L. I now have three 30 litre ( 90 Litres) to distill! They all smell and taste great! Used 50% heavy peated malt and 50% distillers malt.der wo wrote:Good read.
You have mentioned all the options you have. Now you have to choose. Look at the large Malt Whisky recipes here, read all the comments and choose. And then soon you will have a first result, which will provoke new questions.
My advice: Don't use the BIAB for mashing, but use it for straining. You need an even temperature and the ability to stir well. Both is more difficult with a BIAB. Never heat the mash, only heat the water.
der wo wrote:Per 10l mash:
- 6.5l water at 60°C in an insulated vessel.
- Switch it off and throw in 2kg(7%abv) - 2.75kg(10%abv) crushed malt.
- Wait and stir occasionally minimum 2 hours.
- Filter and press the mash with a BIAB cloth.
- Now you have probably around 6l filtered mash. You want at the end 10l. So the second water has to be 10 - 6 = 4l. Heat the 4l water up to at least 90°C.
- Switch it off and throw the malt back into the vessel
- Wait and stir occasionally until the temp has dropped to 55°C or lower. You can remove the insulation to speed this up if you want.
- Filter and press it and mix it to the first mash.
- Close it and pitch yeast after temp has dropped enough. I also like to add nutrients.
The first low temp water protects the enzymes. The second high temp water solves all the sugar and starch out of the malt. The enzymes of the first water will convert the starches of the second water during cooling down and fermentation.
the teaspoon you add for aging is NOT crushed .Down_Home52 wrote:When you add the teaspoon of smoked peated barley, the whole kernel or crack it then filter after aging? Ordered some of this today. http://www.brewinternational.com/smoked-malt-peated/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
It recommends 10% max in grain bill. That is probably for beer. I guess I will have to try several combinations with a base malt to find out.
Now I assume all modern commercial distillers monitor and adjust their ph to some extent, but I've never heard of one going to the expense of using commercial buffers rather than simple acids and minerals.The primary source of water is rain, but what happens to rainwater before its arrival at the distillery affects its chemistry and thus the uniqueness of the resulting malt whisky. The rain may end up as a stream or river, in a loch or a reservoir, coming from the rock as deep or shallow boreholes, or as a spring high on a hillside.
If it falls on bare mountains made of crystalline rocks it will flow rapidly downhill as streams. This water has little chance to interact with the underlying rocks and often has a low mineral content. It will be acid and soft.
On the other hand if the strata are more permeable, or have many joints and fractures, the rain will percolate into and through the rock, dissolving it and increasing the water's mineral content. Limestones and sandstones, for example, yield water rich in carbonates or sulphates; such waters will be neutral or slightly alkaline and hard.
'Soft water, through peat, over granite' was the traditional and still oft-quoted view of the best water for distilling. Remarkably, out of the 100 or so single malt whiskies, less than 20 use water that fits this description.
http://www.alcademics.com/2017/01/water ... ries-.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollowDeanston (Scottish Highlands slightly north of Glasgow)
Water Source: River Teith
Ph 7.1
Total Hardness ( mg CaCO3/ L ) 19.5
Colour (mg/L Pt/Co scale ) 20
Calcium ( mg/L ) 6.18
Bunnahabhain (Islay)
Water source: Margadale underground river
Ph 7.2
Total Hardness 120.7
Colour 50
Calcium 29.5
Tobermory (Isle of Mull)
Water Source: Gearr Abhainn
Ph 6.2
Total Hardness 21.4
Colour 175
Calcium 5.02.
The all grain won't crash like sugar heads. I still add a small amount of calcium carbonate, say 1 cup per 82 gallons. Also an equal volume of citric acid. For my water, that gets me right about 5.2-5.4. I will finish at about 4 for a ph. For reference I add about 3x that much for a sugar wash.Down_Home52 wrote:der wo you mentioned you like to add nutrients. Care to expand on that? Also, will the AG wash need a lot of attention to pH after fermentation starts like a sugarhead ? I am used to seeing a pH crash in my corn syrup washes and use oyster shells to adjust. Have never had to adjust pH in my fruit brandy washes.
